Trekking Nepal is a unique travel experience in this age of mass-tourism and mass-communication. With your first step on the trail, the jagged snow-capped mountaintops of the Himalayas seem impossibly distant, as distant as the comforts of civilization you'll leave behind. Walking the winding footpaths from village to village, lodge to lodge, is the only form of transportation, travel and trade in the mountainous regions. Along the trail, you'll be passed by barefoot porters lugging 100 pound loads to villages that haven't changed much in the past five hundred years. There are no phones where you'll be going, no wires or smog, and the only wheels are prayer wheels.
There are also very few doctors. With only yourself to rely on, you'll carry all you need except for food, hiking six to eight hours a day over tremendous mountain passes and down lush valleys to cross raging glacial rivers. There's nothing like meditating for six weeks while trudging from one mountain range to another, with 40 pounds strapped to your back. Every now and then you'll stop and look down at every corner of the searing sky and every impossibly distant, unreachable mountaintop.
In the national parks and conservation areas of Nepal, wildlife runs free. Throughout pine and fir forests, hiding among blooms of rhododendrons or grazing on hellidore flowers, you may encounter long-haired Tahr's, or Himalayan blue sheep. On the trail you may startle mountain goat and musk deer, catching them staring with curious eyes and leaping down jagged cliffs to disappear without a sound.
The trail will continue through villages, past stone houses and ancient prayer wheels, across manicured fields and nearby austere monasteries. The scenery is diverse, changing from canyons in the morning to barren hilltops in the afternoon, and the trails serve as the lifeline of the many ethnic groups of Nepal's highland And you'll more than likely come across colorful festivals and religious celebrations.
But perhaps what makes Nepal so unique among travel destinations is that along your foot-journey, you'll stay in people's homes, eat their cooking, and experience a very old culture as a welcome guest. The kitchen is the showcase of the Nepali home, and trekkers are invited to gather round the hearth with the family, sip tea with yak milk and chat as the sun sets and the fire glows.
Trekking is not mountaineering; it's more like a self-reliant hike, a long walk through the mountains. While Nepal boasts 8 of the world's 14 8,000 meter peaks, including Everest, there are many hikable mountains in the 4,000 to 6,500 meter range. Trekking requires no specialized gear or training, and is enjoyed by families and adventurers alike. All you need is a good pair of boots and some time to leave your life behind. The more the better!
Nepal's seasons are ours, and the autumn or early spring are some of the best times for trekking. October and November are the height of the tourist season, as the weather is beautiful, and the high mountain passes are nearly always open. The winter has clear skies and is less crowded, but with frequent storms and frigid weather, you risk being stranded for days at a time with a Sherpa family. The spring sees less trekkers, and less locals (as many go to Kathmandu to avoid the summer monsoons). Storms can still dump feet of snow without warning, covering the land and mountains with pristine snow fields. So, no matter when you plan to go, expect the unexpected and schedule in extra days.
Where:
The Annapurna Circuit
A six hour bus ride from Kathmandu brings you to Pokhara, nestled between the Annapurna range and the placid Lake Fewa Tal. In the sixties, Pokhara was a place to tune out, smoke up, and put off life for another day. Today, it's a growing town where many come for the high mountain air, to learn kayaking and mountaineering, or just to relax.
The Annapurna circuit is the most popular trekking region, and you'll surely run into many westerners. As opposed to the Everest region, where sprawling trails weave through the foothills before reaching the big mountains, in the Annapurna Conservation Area, you'll immediately be hiking among the towering snow-capped peaks of Tilicho, Machhapuchhare and Annapurna South. Dubbed the "Apple Pie Trail," there are more comforts along the Annapurna circuit than you'd find in the Everest region, and because you hike in a fixed loop, there is less chance to get off the beaten track to explore on your own. The entire circuit takes most people three weeks, but it's possible to hike segments such as the Jomson Trek section in a week or less.
Everest Region
To access the Everest region's network of trails, you have the option of flying into Pablu (the region's capital), or Lukla (one day's hike south of the famed Sherpa trading village Namche Bazaar), or of "hiking in" eight to ten days from the town of Jiri (where the road ends and a local bus can drop you off). Some hotel owners and guides for hire in Kathmandu may try to persuade you from taking the 12 hour, uncomfortable bus because of thieves and precarious roads. While such risks are inherent in traveling through the developing world, taking this extra time gives you the advantages of acclimatizing gradually and preparing you physically to take on the big mountains. Besides, the foothills and valleys of the Himalayas have some of the most enjoyable scenery in Nepal, and the Sherpas here are not yet accustomed to hordes of westerners, guaranteeing they'll be some of the most genuine you meet throughout your trek.
Whether you fly or hike in, once you reach Namche Bazaar at 3,440 meters, you'll have the option heading in any direction and exploring the hundreds of massive peaks in the Lantang National Park. Most trekkers head for Everest base camp to climb Kala Pattar, see the famed Khumbu Ice fall, and chat with the expeditions attempting to scale the highest peak on the planet. Others head to Goyko Peak, as it offers better views of Everest, and a few trek to Chikkung Ri because its yak trails and pastures are less traveled. All have breathtaking views of the rooftop of the world, particularly the many faces of Ama Dablam. If you can schedule a month, it's possible to hike in from Jiri and still manage to hike all three peaks.
Other trekking regions include the Upper Mustang, the Upper Dolpo, Manaslu, Humla and Kanchenjunga Base camp. All require special permission and large trekking fees, and can close unexpectedly because of the famed and frustrating Nepali government bureaucracy.
What you don't carry is as important as what you do. At the end of just one long day, your back will know the difference between 35 lbs. and 50. At the same time, you don't want to be caught unprepared. Most hotels and guesthouses in Kathmandu or Pokhara will allow you to safely store a bag or suitcase for as long as you're in the mountains.
The best advice is to bring all that you might need to Kathmandu, but to scrutinize over every item when packing for the trail. Of each item ask, do I really need this? Because after all, to undertake a self-sufficient journey is to learn to rely on your physical and mental abilities rather than your material possessions. Free yourself of objects, and your spirit can soar, or so said a trekker who carried only a toothbrush and a hash pipe.
If you find yourself weak or sick, or just in need of an easy day, it's always possible to hire a porter while on the trail. Except good wool socks and adequate hiking boots, which you must bring from home, anything else can be rented or purchased (and sold back at half-price) in one of the many Kathmandu or Pokhara trekking stores.
Proprietors sell Chinese and locally made rip-offs of brand name gear, so shop in Nepal as you would at home, taking care to look for quality. You don't want to risk renting a sleeping bag that the shop owner says is good to 10 degrees, and find at altitude that you can't keep warm. One reputable shop is Shona's, across from the KEEP office in Kathmandu, run by Shona and her husband Andy, who has been up many peaks in the area and is a wealth of information about concerns, trail reports and gossip.
This recommendation covers what you'll need for hiking in the foothills, where you'll probably wear shorts and a T-shirt and for the high mountains, where you may have to bundle against a blizzard. It's only a suggestive list, and you should tailor it according to your needs and season.
Clothes:
-Quality, rugged, worn in, ankle-height hiking boots (from home)
-2 pair wool hiking socks (from home)
-2 pair liners (from home, preferably silk)
-1 pair lounging socks and/or slippers
-1 pair pants
-1 pair shorts
-1 pair light, wind resistant, waterproof pants (to wear over regular pants, or by themselves)
-1 wind resistant, waterproof Gortex jacket, something more than a windbreaker
-3 pair undergarments (1 can be flannel, if you like comfort)
-3-4 T-shirts (preferably polypro/wickaway): one long sleeve & one short
-1 set polypro long underwear (tops and bottoms)
-1 fleece jacket or pullover
-hat and mittens (fleece or wool keep you warm when wet)
-waterproof sandals, wearable with in the shower or with socks
Optional clothing includes:
-More socks
-A fleece vest, which is helpful at lower altitudes when the wind picks up, and for people who alternate between hot and cold easily, or
-A light polypro pullover or jacket
-A down jacket, which many people say is not necessary since you won't wear it while hiking, and in the lodges, if you're ever that cold, you can just get in your sleeping bag
Gear:
-First Aid Kit
-Sleeping bag, preferably down, good to ? degrees
-Daypack (at least one for the group)
-Map (available in Kathmandu or Pokhara)
-Compass, and the knowledge to use it
-Thermometer
-Gaiters (if you plan to go above snowline, or if you don't have waterproof pants)
-Extra Shoelaces
-1 or 2 Nalgene bottles
-Good sunglasses with UV protection
-Hat with rim or ballcap to block out sun
-Toilet paper
-Tampons (if you use them; only one store in Nepal sells them)
-Iodine (tabs or drops) or water filter
-Candles, extra batteries, reading material, journal, camera with a lot of film
-Extra Rupees (the local currency)
Optional gear may include:
-Pillowcase to stuff clothing in for makeshift pillow
-Camelback
-Laundry soap
-Powerbars, Snickers, etc.
-Filters for camera(s)
-Walking stick or skipole(s)
It's important not to get cold, because warming up can be difficult. Dress in layers. As the days progress, you'll learn the weather patterns and should be able to predict which layers you'll need when temperatures will change.
Note: what follows is simply an introduction, and not a substitute for extensive reading on AMS and First Aid.
AMS, or Acute Mountain Sickness, commonly known as Altitude sickness is the most dangerous threat to trekkers' safety. It's brought on by ascending too fast in the oxygen-depleted high altitudes (above 2,500 meters). The best preventative medicine is to follow the acclimatization tables in your guidebook, ascend slowly, and drink at least four liters of water a day. Without adequate oxygen, the cardiovascular and muscular system can easily be overworked. Symptoms include headache, lethargy, dizziness, difficulty sleeping and loss of appetite. Recommended treatment is to stop ascending and wait for symptoms to disappear before continuing on. If the symptoms continue, it may be necessary to descend at least 500 meters. Most sources say drugs are no substitute for common sense, but many hikers recommend Diamox to assist sleep. The KEEP office in Kathmandu provides free information and lectures on how to prevent, recognize and treat AMS.
Hypothermia and frostbite should be prevented by not allowing the body core or extremities to drop in temperature. Common hiking injuries in the Himalayas can put you at risk, as help may be days away. It's best to hike with caution, in groups of 3 or more, so if an injury arises, one person can go for help while the second stays with the injured. Ankle twists are common, as are sprains, strains, cuts and scrapes. Make sure to have a good first aid kit and someone on board who has basic first aid training or knowledge.
Worms are a concern, so wear shoes or sandals at all times, especially in the showers. Stomach or intestinal problems can debilitate you for days. As you're sure to be served uncooked food somewhere along the trail, do your best to make sure all you eat is fully cooked or washed with treated water. Two drugs requiring prescription in the U.S., Tinazol (for gardia) and Ciproflaxen (for intestinal eruptions) are available over the counter in Kathmandu pharmacies. Make sure to have plenty in your first aid kits.
Water must be treated, for drinking and brushing but not for washing. Iodine tablets or drops are popular, as they don't take up much space and won't be used long enough to cause liver damage. The down side is your water will taste like metal. Filters are another option, but they take up a lot of space, and often don't rid water of all known bacteria and viruses. Check to make sure yours filters out all known bacteria, parasites and viruses. The last option is boiling, which most guest house owners will do for free. The debate continues as to how long water must be boiled: The Peace Corps says 3 minutes, KEEP says 5, others say it only need reach a boil for the heat to kill all the nasties. But since you can't know how long a guest house owner has boiled the water (no matter what he or she says), the debate may not even be relevant.
A First Aid kit is something you cannot do without. In addition to standard kits, some things you should bring include:
-Extra ace bandages (ups & downs 1000 meters at a time can be tough on the knees, also important for twisted ankles)
-Extra blister cream and moleskin
-Athletic tape
-Sunblock (UV rays are severe at altitude)
-Moisturizer
-A large bottle of Tylenol, Advil or your favorite pain killers
-Thermometer
-Sports cream or Tigerbalm
-Desitin (essential for rashes and chaffing)
-Instant cold pack
-Rehydration packets
-Tinazol and Ciproflaxen (available in Kathmandu pharmacies)
The Kathmandu Environmental Education Project, or KEEP, maintains a traveler's information center with free assistance about personal safety and cultural and environmental conservation. They'll answer questions, provide written information, and schedule talks with slide shows on a range of topics from Nepali culture to ecotrekking. Perhaps most importantly, you can register with your embassy through KEEP, to record your scheduled trek and emergency contact information. KEEP is located in central Thamel, on Tridevi Marg. Ask most anyone (traveler or local) where the office is and they'll point you in the right direction.
Trekking Nepal is more than just a physical and mental challenge, and there's more to the scenery than the majestic peaks. Nepal has a very old culture defined by respect and religious piety. Cultural differences may make you feel awkward, but if you treat all Nepalis, even the low-caste porters, with respect, those differences will give way to intimacy.
There's no minimum you're required to hike each day, nor is there a limit. The Nepalis begin hiking sometimes before sunrise, and stop frequently for tea. Most trekkers start a little later in the morning and stop for a long lunch. Lodges, tea-houses and private homes provide places to eat, rest or duck out of the rain. Should you ever get lost, just ask a local by saying the name of the town your headed to, they'll be sure to help out any way they can.
Some of the trails are thin and carved into cliff-sides, and you'll probably pass a yak train in this precarious situation. Stay to the inside of the trail to avoid their heavy loads--if one of the large beasts swings your way, you could get pitched over the side. Always pass to the left of religious objects and know you're welcome in all monasteries. It's customary to leave a small donation in the collection box or to anyone who gives you a tour.
Most guest-houses don't have electricity, and during the cold nights the kitchen hearth is usually the only warm place outside your sleeping bag. At day's end, you'll probably be exhausted yet find yourself talking late into the candle-lit night with other trekkers, the lodge family or neighbors. Do a little planning each evening, perusing your maps and guidebook for the next day's rest stops, viewpoints, and final destinationand to look back over the ground you've covered and your performance. You certainly don't have to stick to a plan, but it's important to know the estimated hiking time between villages, tomorrow's terrain, and where to expect the trail splitting.
Monitoring your body and your hiking partners is crucial to any successful outing, and even moreso in the Himalayas. Watch yourself for strains and stresses, and be sure to attend to blisters and soreness problems the moment they arise. It's important to stretch every morning and evening to avoid injury. Yoga can be especially helpful. Also, don't forget to carry snacks such as Powerbars or snickers with you for the long stretches between villages.
Nutrition while trekking is a concern, since there is little variety of food in the mountains. Anything out of the ordinary must be carried in by porters, and out of simple economics, prices rise the farther in you go. Most of the food you'll be served is carbohydrates (noodles, rice, and other starches), which is what you need for quick, usable energy. But it's important to eat at least one protein (eggs, beans, lentils, or peanut butter) at every meal. Vegetables in the foothills are easier to come by, but the farther in you trek, you may find yourself excited over a single limpy leaf of spinach. Bring vitamins.
Here are a few tricks to make the hard parts easier:
-Many trekkers buy Raman soup packets along the way, eating the noodles dry and pouring the flavor packet in their water bottles, which are often filled with hot water.
-Use a walking stick, ski pole or pair of poles for the steep downhills.
-Above snowline, if you don't have glacier glasses, cardboard taped to the sides of your sunglasses will cut out the glare.
-Your Nalgine bottle won't leak, so at night, fill one with boiled water to put in your sleeping bag. It will keep you warm, and in the morning, the water won't be frozen like everything else, so you'll have something to drink comfortably, brush your teeth and wash your hands to put in contact lenses.
Nepal's international airport is in Kathmandu. Visas are available upon arrival: 15 day single entry for $15, 30 day single entry for $25, 30 day double entry for $40, and 60 day multiple entry for $60. A taxi to Thamel (where most services for Westerners are located) or Freak Street (so called from its hey-day in the 60's) should cost around 150 rupees for three people. Expect a horde of industrious kids asking to carry your bag for a small tip. You'll learn right from the start in Nepal that if you dispense small amounts of money for "services," many people will go out of their way to be kind to you. Just be sure they don't take advantage.
With departing international flights, always reconfirm 72 hours in advance, or you may be unexpectedly removed from your seat. There's an airport tax of 700 rupees to be paid upon departure.
Kathmandu has a full range of hotels in Thamel and Freak Street, and it's common to arrive without a reservation, catch a taxi downtown and ask around. The cabbies will of course try to take you to their friend's hotel, so it's best to have a destination in mind. (They may take you where they want to anyway.) Be clear about price (including baggage handling charges) and destination before you enter the taxi.
Two in the budget range:
Capital Guest House
Sat Ghumti
P.O. Box 8426
Thamel
Kathmandu, Nepal
Tel: 414150, or 419192
Himalayas Guest House
Jhochhen, near Basantapur
Freak Street
Kathmandu, Nepal
Tel: 246555, or 228718
One in the higher price range:
Kathmandu Guest House
In the center of Thamel, it's a landmark that cabbies will know It's always booked, so call or fax in advance
Tel: 01-413623
Fax: 01-417133
Trekking permits must be obtained from the Immigration Office on Trivedi Marg, where you can also extend your visa for $1 US/day. Permits cost $5/week for the first four weeks, and $10 thereafter. All payments are expected in US Dollars or the Nepali Rupee equivalent. There is also an entry fee for the Lantang National Park and the Annapurna Conservation area of 1,200 Rupees. All of these prices are subject to change without warning, so triple-check all fees before you begin hiking.
Flights to and from Pablu and Lukla ($88 each way) can be purchased from Kathmandu travel agents or the airline offices in Pablu and Lukla. Be sure to ask in Namche Bazaar about what time the offices are open and availability of flights. Local busses leave Kathmandu to both Pokhara and Jiri nearly every day. Check schedules at the bus station, or ask more than one travel agent to verify schedules and prices.
Cash advances are available on Visa (no service charge) and Master Card in Kathmandu. Traveler's checks are accepted there and in Pokhara, but not once out on the trail. You can change a little money upon arrival at the airport. For the trek itself, not including gifts and incidentals, budget $12 to $15 per day, and carry it all in Rupees. Have a wad of small bills because change is often hard to come by. You'll spend less in the lowlands but more the farther in you hike. In addition, make sure to bring an extra stash of Rupees and American Dollars in case of emergencies. There are no bank machines where you'll be going, and five dollars for a candy bar won't sound so outrageous at 5,000 meters, where the air is thin and you don't think straight. |
