Antwerpen City guide
Europe's second largest port may play second fiddle to Brussels, but it's still Flander's most fashionable city.
Nowadays, a bulky Antwerpener named Frank told me one evening between mouthfulls of smoked salmon. 'Antwerp is just a back-water, but once it was one of the world's great centres, like London or Paris. Of course, that was 300 or 400 years ago; yet for the people of Antwerp that their city is a Metropolis is still in here.
CAFES & BARS
Lombardia
Lombardenvest 78. A colouful vegetarian cafe.
Kulminator
(Vleminckveld 32) Possibly the world's best beer cafe. The menu lists a bewildering choice of more than 500 different brews. If you're stumped, try Antoon, the beer specially brewed for the Van Dyck celebrations. Take time out to fill in the visitor's form and each year the owners will send you a birthday card. Food is restricted to sandwiches.
Cafe Beveren
(Vlasmarkt 2) Antwerp is famous for its 'brown cafes', street corner bars where centuries of cigarette smoke has stained the walls ochre, the kind of places that turn up in the paintings of Adrian Brouwer and David Teniers. This is a typical example, occupied by retired bargees from the river Scheldt, tourists and an unfeasibly large Wurlitzer organ. Customers sometimes dance on tables. Not for the faint-hearted.
Het Elfde Gebod
(Torfbrug 10). Combining two Flemish obsessions, alcohol and Catholocism, under one roof, 'The Eleventh Commandment' ('Remember To Eat And Drink Well', apparently) offers 30 beers and 500 pieces of religious art, relics and icons - look out for The Madonna with the Head of a Dog. Strange, even by Belgian standards.
De Groote Witte Arand
(Reyndersstraat 18). A haven of tranquility on a busting throughfare of bars and restaurants. 'The Great White Eagle' shares a cobbled courtyard with a chapel. The interior is a bit monastic, so sit outside if the weather is fine. Good coffee, pancakes and home-made cherry beer. They play Bizet at pleasntly high volume. Civilsed.
HOTELS
De Witte Lelie
Keizerstraat 16-18 (00 32 3 226 1966). Three 16th-century townhuses converted into a hotel in 1993. Pale, modern furnishings, stone fireplaces, exposed beams - a truly beautiful place. Doubles from BF8,500.
't Sandt
Zand 17-18 (00 32 3 232 9390) In the shadow of the cathedral, an 1850s house in the rococo style, restored in 1990.
Firean
Karel Oomsstraat 6 (00 32 3 237 0260). An Art Deco mansion dating from 1929 that opened as a hotel in 1985.
Steglvolle Gasten Karmass
Amerikalei 103 (00 32 3 216 1480). Superior bed and breakfast run by a pair of interior designers.
RESTAURANTS
Las Manas
(Ankerrui 36; 00 32 3 231 7220) offers some of the best Castillian food.
Sir Anthony Van Dijk
Oude Koornmarkt 16 (00 32 3 231 6170). Tucked away in a side street, this restaurant once had Michelin stars, until the owner got tired of the hassle. The food is good as ever, but now dinner is served in two sittings. Booking essential.
't Fornuis
Reyndersstraat 24 (00 32 3 233 62 70). A 17th-century house that boasts some of Belgium's best cooking - with prices to match. So confident it closes on Saturday and Sunday.
Brasseurs
Britselei 53 (00 32 3 237 69 01). Modern brasserie close to the Royal Museum of Fine Arts; smart dishes snappily served.
Zuiderterras
Ernest Van Dijkkaai 37 (00 32 3 234 12 75). Glass-sided building designed by Bob Van Reeth that sits right on the bank of the Scheldt. Good, modern food and wonderful views of the barges trundling along the river.
Frituur No 1
(Corner of Hoogstraat and Oude Koornmarkt). Belgium wouldn't be Belgium without chips, and this is the best frites emporium in Antwerp. Presided over in the evening by the traditional ferocious middle-aged Flemish woman who delights in insulting the customers - in a charming way, obviously.
SHOPPING
Walter
Walter Van Beirendonck's new shop is at Sintaniusstraat 12.
Modepaleis
Dries van Noten's shop at Nationalestraat 16.
Louis
Lombardenstraat 2. Stocks designs by Ann Demeulemeester and Raf Simons.
De Groene Wolk
Korte Gasthuisstraat 20, has an extraordinary selection of children's clothes, including Dries van Noten frocks for the under-10s (a second branch round the corner deals in haute coutre for the discerning nappy-wearer).
Fish and Chips
The nightclubbing end of the market is well served by Fish and Chips and Harry Beaver in Kammenstraat, the sort of places where everything is made of microfibres and even the knickers have cargo pockets.
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