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Madeira City Guide
With its moderate climate, the portuguese island of Maderia has been a popular winter destination since the mid-19th century.

When I told some friends that I was going to Madeira, they found it amusing. My travels are usually to remote parts of the African bush or Amazonian jungle; the Portuguese island of Madeira, where consumptives used to winter and Churchill painted water-colors, seemed altogether too sedate.

GETTING THERE

British Airways (0345 222111)

TAP Air Portugal (020 7630 0900)

INFORMATION

Portugese Trade and Tourism Office 22-25a Sackville Street, London W1X 2LY (020 7494 1441)

WHERE TO EAT

Villa Cliff Estrada Monmental (00 353 91 717100). Just along from Reid's Palace Hotel and owned by the same company, it is worth splashing out abit for dinner at this Italian restaurant, if only for it's views over the bay. Expect to pay 11,000$

Jaquet Rua de Santa Maria 5 (00 351 91 225344). Senhor Luis will tell you what to eat iin this fish restaurant by the market.

Golden Gate Avenida Arriaga (00 351 91 220053). An old colonial cafe-restaurant opposite the tourist office in the town centre, with wicker chairs and ceiling fans and a terrace from which to watch the world go by. Good, chap luches ranging from fish'n'chips to Oriental duck salad, and delicious pastries.

Doca do Cavacas Ponta da Cruz, Estrada Monumental (00 351 91 762057). reasonably priced seafood restaurant perched right on the edge of the sea in the next bay round the coast from Funchal.

The Dining Room at Reid's Estrada Monumental (00 351 91 717171). Chintzy and pretentious, with more waiters than diners and more chandeliers than the average royal palace, it can be fun peple-spotting here for an evening, but don't expect great food. Men must wear ties

WHERE TO STAY

Reid's Palace Hotel (Estrada Monumental 139, Funchal; 00 351 91 717171; fax; 717177; reservations in the UK; 020 8568 8366; doubles from 58,000$, about £195), in it's prime clifftop position, is the place to stay. Its hushed colonial ambience is not for those who want to spend their holiday in shorts and trainers, but if you like dressing up for a few days. slipping dry martinis on the terrace and waltzing under the starts, this is ideal.
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