It may not be the sexiest of materials, but concrete is doing for Valencia what titanium has done for Bilbao. A major revamp has transformed Spain’s third-largest city from shabby to swanky – mostly thanks to architect Santiago Calatrava, who just happens to come from there.
MUSEUMS
IVAM C/Guillem de Castro 118 and C/Museo 2 (00 34 96 386 3000).
The Valencian Institute of Modern Art has two adjacent sites which host major temporary shows, as well as a permanent exhibit by the sculptor Julio González.
Museo de Bellas Artes C/San Pío V 9 (00 34 96 369 3088).
Situated in a recently restored 17th-century building, one of the most important museums in Spain. Strong collection of 15th-century Primitives, as well as Goya portraits and a Velázquez self-portrait.
Museo Nacional de Cerámica. C/Poeta Queról 2 (00 34 96 351 6392).
Situated in the 18th-century Palacio del Marqués de Dos Aguas, which has an elaborate marble façade. Contains exhibits from various centres of ceramic production in the Valencia region, as well as pieces from all over the world.
Museo Fallero Plaza del Monteolivete 4 (00 34 96 352 5478). Collection of figures from the Fallas, Valencia’s most important festival, held every March, when giant papier-mâché effigies of politicians and celebrities are paraded through the streets and later burnt. Also commemorative posters by famous artists and photographs of the event.
NIGHTLIFE
The Carmen Sui Generis Club (C/Caballeros 38) A lively venue that stands on the site of one of the towers of the city wall, bits of which still exist in the basement.
Café Infanta (Plaza del Tossal 3)...where remains of the wall have been incorporated into the décor.
Johnny Maracas (C/Caballeros 39) Sip a mojito at the bar or join the seething mass of salsa dancers on the floor.
Café del Negrito (Plaza del Negrito 1) Attracts an arty crowd and has plenty of tables both inside and out. A good place to sit back and people-watch
SHOPPING
Francis Montesinos (C/Trinitarios 12) Valencia’s best-known designer, whose witty frocks often feature in Almodóvar films
Purificación García (C/Colón 17) For understated elegance in sensual fabrics
María José Navarro (C/Pérez Bayer 11)
Antonio Pernas (C/Jorge Juan 10)
Abanicos Carbonell (Castellón 21) Stocks exquisite hand-made fans
Las Añadas de España (C/Xátiva 3) A great delicatessen that stocks all local specialities and a good range of wines
WHERE TO STAY
AdHoc C/Boix 4 (0034 96 3919140). A three-star boutique hotel in a 19th-century building. Top-floor rooms have terraces. Doubles £80. Meliá Valencia Palace. Paseo Alameda 32 (0034 96 3375037). The only five-star in the city itself – although not right in the centre – with great views over the City of Arts and Sciences. Doubles £145.
Meliá Valencia Palace Paseo Alameda 32 (0034 96 3375037). The only five-star in the city itself – although not right in the centre – with great views over the City of Arts and Sciences. Doubles £145
Meliá Plaza Plaza del Ayuntamiento 4 (00 34 96 352 0612). A well-designed four-star hotel in a modernised early-20th-century building, centrally situated on the main square. Doubles £105
Astoria Palace Plaza de Rodrigo Botet 5 (00 34 96 352 6737). Elegant four-star hotel renowned for good service, right in the centre of town. Doubles £120
Meliá Confort Inglés C/Marqués de Dos Aguas 6 (00 34 96 351 6426). Stylish, smallish three-star opposite the Ceramics Museum. Newly refurbished and furnished with reproduction antiques. Doubles £95. |
