1 River of Dreams. More than 170 years after Stamford Raffles stepped ashore on its muddy banks, the Singapore River is still the city's heart and soul. Stroll along the waterfront in the early evening, when cool breezes glide off the straits. Linger in one of the outdoor cafés along Boat Quay and savor the view ­ Singapore's past and present in one sweeping panorama. One bank is adorned with Victorian architecture, handsome relics of the British colonial era. The steel-and-glass castles of modern financial empires crown the other bank, testimony that Singapore has lived up to everything that Raffles envisioned.

2 Pearl of the Orient. Little India is the most authentic of Singapore's ethnic enclaves, a boisterous area of about 20 blocks that wouldn't look out of place in Calcutta. Have your fortune told by a psychic parrot, sample delicious banana leaf curry, and listen to the sweet strains of Hindu music floating from the open windows. Shops overflow with silks, spices, and gold jewelry. If you're in town during the Deepavali festival, don't miss the nightly light show.

3 Green Retreat. Plunge into the jungle at Bukit Timah Nature Reserve, a pristine patch of rain forest that's never been logged. Well-marked nature trails lead to the base of Bukit Timah (Singapore's highest hill), and some scientists say there are more plant species ­ from delicate orchids to giant Podocarpus trees ­ within the confines of this tiny park than in all of North America. Wildlife also is abundant. Pythons slither through the undergrowth,monkeys hoot and holler in the trees, and white-bellied sea eagles hover high above the forest canopy. You'd swear you were in Borneo instead of in the middle of a modern city.

4 Urban Gem. When your shopping feet get tired of pounding the pavement along Orchard Road, duck into a quiet side street called Emerald Hill Road. Bars and cafés offer local libations, such as Tiger beer or the Singapore sling, while the upper reaches of the street are the bastion of exquisitely restored Peranakanmansions from earlier in the century. After dark, Emerald Hill transforms itself into a trendy little nightlife district.

5 Dark Shadows. Speaking of nightlife, there's nothing quite as wild as Singapore's Night Safari, the world's only entirely nocturnal zoo. That rumble in the jungle could be a rare Malaysian tiger, a pack of striped hyenas, or an Asian elephant rummaging for food. A 40-minute tram ride navigates the various habitats, but the best way to explore is on foot, lingering in the shadows as the animals go about their murky business. Early birds don't get the worm here: The park does not open until 7:30 p.m.

6 Across the Causeway. One of the best things about Singapore is its proximity to a bustling Malaysian border town called Johor Bahru. Between the shopping (much cheaper than Singapore) and eating (Malay hawker stalls and Chinese restaurants), there's enough to keep you busy for a whole day. Ancient architecture includes the elegant Sultan Abu Bakar Mosque and the blue-roofed Istana Besar, an opulent former palace that offers a rare glimpse into the everyday life of an Asian royal family. The quickest way to reach Johor is by taxi, but you can also hop the Mass Rapid Transit to Woodlands and walk across the famed causeway.

7 Treasure Chest. Anyone with even a vague interest in maps should chart a course for the most fascinating shop in a most fascinating mall called Tanglin, home to some of Singapore's best antique furniture and handicraft galleries. Antiques of the Orient is Southeast Asia's premier antique map shop, one of the best of its kind in the world, with a collection stretching back more than 400 years.

8 Bell Hop. One of Singapore's newest attractions is actually very old ­ a collection of five restored neo-Gothic buildings within a historic precinct called Chijmes (as in tolling bells). Situated nearRaffles Hotel, the area contains a Gothic-style chapel andCaldwell House, the island's oldest free-standing structure. Tucked beneath the Gothic facades are bars and restaurants; it's especially nice at night, when alfresco dining evokes images of another age.

9 Sunset Strip. Take a taxi out to East Coast Park and linger beneath a coconut palm as the sun sinks behind the hundreds of ships anchoredin the Singapore Strait, one of the world's busiest harbors. For a closer glimpse of this maritime marvel, rent a sailboat at the water sports center. And be sure to work up a healthy appetite: The park's seafood, especially the chili crab and deep-fried squid, is legendary among local diners.

10 Market Forces. Orchard Road's shopping is famous, but when locals go looking for real bargains, they head for Holland Village. Merchandise runs the gamut from Balinese batik and Burmese lacquerware to factory outlet clothes and cheap electronics. The open-airmarket offers a cornucopia of fruits ­ and a Häagen-Dazs ice-cream shop.