LET’S face it, Canada doesn’t exactly have a reputation for excitement. But don’t let that shy exterior fool you — there’s plenty going on if you only take the trouble to look.

Montreal is Canada’s second largest city and the biggest French metropolis in the world outside France. An intoxicating blend of past, present and future, the overwhelming feel of the place is French and strolling through the old town with its gas lamps, cobbled streets and cafes, it’s hard to believe you aren’t in Paris.

Like many great cities, modern Montreal was born from mixed parentage. The original inhabitants — native Ironquois Indians, were replaced by French settlers in the 16th century, although the first permanent European settlement wasn’t established until 1642. In its time Montreal has been occupied by the British and the Americans and continues to attract immigrants from all over the globe although French remains the first language for the majority of the resident population.

Today, Vieux Montreal is a magnet for nostalgic visitors having rides in horse-drawn caleches or wallowing in the architecture of yesteryear — the area has one of the largest concentrations of 17th, 18th and 19th century buildings in the whole of North America.

The hub of life is around Jacques-Cartier Square. A gathering place for both tourists and locals, it buzzes day and night with food vendors, artists and street entertainers. Must-sees in the old town include Notre-Dame Basilica in the Place d’Armes which has a stunning interior with spectacular stained-glass windows, and the Hotel de Ville. The original city hall was built in 1872 but was gutted by fire in 1922. When it re-opened four years later, it was grander than ever. The marble ‘Hall of Honour is particularly impressive.

One of the most noticeable things about Montreal is its large number of parks, gardens and open spaces. Among them Mount Royal Park, Montreal’s highest point, overlooking the downtown skyline provides a range of walks, cycle paths and nature trails just minutes from the city centre.

Another superb look-out point is Olympic Park. Site of the 1976 Summer Olympics, it contains Montreal’s most famous landmark — the Olympic Stadium Tower. Standing 190 metres high, it is the world’s tallest inclined tower. Those brave enough to take the two minute stomach-churning cable car ride to the top are well rewarded with magnificent views over the city.

Flower enthusiasts should head for the Montreal Botanical Gardens, which are considered second only to London’s Kew. The tranquil Japanese Garden and the Chinese Garden — the largest of its kind outside Asia are especially well worth seeing.

In keeping with the city’s green image, the Biodome is the city’s most unusual and fascinating exhibit and is dedicated to the environment. Described as a “living museum of nature” it enables visitors to experience plants and animals in four different ecosystems from tropical rain forest to the Polar World.

Montreal’s cosmopolitan nature is perhaps best reflected in its cuisine. At lunch-time, fast food delis and outdoor food courts sell everything from Montreal bagels and smoked meat sandwiches (a Quebec speciality) to Japanese sushi and Chinese dim sum. Prices are all very reasonable, starting at around £3 for a main course. Evening dining is more leisurely but just as varied. Choose from classic French bistros to informal BYO pizzerias. As for drinks, imported expensive French wine predominates however, there are several brands of very drinkable Canadian beers at around £2.

Even after a late dinner, there’s still plenty of time to experience Montreal’s throbbing night life. The action starts at around 10pm and rarely finishes before 3am. The hottest clubs like Cafe Cherrier and Club Metropolis are located in East Downtown between Rue St-Dennis and St. Catherine’s Street.

Trendy Rue St. Catherine has the best range of up-to-the-minute fashion boutiques and speciality stores. Two of the city’s most chic department stores, Eaton’s and Ogilvy are also located there. For antiques and art galleries try Sherbrooke and Crescent Streets. But for the best all round range of shops, explore the futuristic underground city where you can shop till you flop in over 16 miles of weather-proof malls beneath the city streets.

As well as international and designer shopping, Montreal also offers the chance to take home some unique souvenirs as it is a major centre for Inuit and Indian art. The Canadian Guild of Crafts Quebec in Peel Street, specialises in native sculptures and handicrafts such as masks, silk paintings, pottery and hand-blown glass. Prices range from £l for a bookmark to well over £1,000 for an intricate hand-carved rock sculpture.

Having hosted both Expo (1967) and the Olympics (1976), the city has no shortage of exhibition or sporting facilities — everything from golf and sailing to alpine skiing is on offer. Add to that its sophisticated night life and impressive range of restaurants and you’ll find Montreal bursting with things to do. But the best thing of all is its atmosphere — French, yes, but with a certain je ne sais quoi that you won’t find anywhere else.