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CHICAGO is a spectacular collection of buildings ranging from the church-like to many of the tallest structures in the world. If the inhabitants of any city in the world can claim to have their heads in the clouds — it’s surely Chicago’s. With several of the highest buildings in the world Chicago is truly a city of sky scrapers.
Geologically this should be something of a surprise as the very name Chicago is derived from an American Indian tongue meaning “marshy place”. New York’s Manhattan, also renowned for its sky scrapers, is built on solid rock.
Nevertheless, the ingenious Chicago pioneers dug down to solid foundations and then built their dreams to the sky. For dreams they were and many of the structures stand as monuments to the early 20th century Chicago administrators who listened to the architects with the grand vision, and the financiers and construction engineers who had the courage and expertise to turn those dreams into reality. The Chicago school of architecture, to this day, is regarded as a world leader and the current skyscrapers are a fascinating collection ranging from the church-like Tribune Tower to the stark simplicity of the Standard Oil Building.
The Sears Tower, for many years the world’s tallest building (now Malaysia’s twin Petronas Towers are taller), really does tower over all and combines the best of both schools of design with it’s black flat sides but stepped, church-like intervals.
But overall Chicago comes as something of a surprise — the reality is different to the image reared on endless ganster movies and tales of the notorious Al Capone.
One can easily imagine that Chicago is a city of largely old buildings with narrow threatening streets where men in wide brimmed hats and long heavy coats are liable to come around the corner and start blazing away with Thompson sub-machine guns.
But it’s apparent that the image needs adjusting before you even leave the airport (the world’s busiest) with the laser-like light displays on the moving walkways.
Admittedly downtown Chicago does have a slightly claustrophobic feel, not because the streets are narrow but rather that the buildings are so high.
Strolling through the man-made canyons can be a rather cool experience, apart from mid-day, as you are invariably in the shade resulting from the height of the buildings and the notorious wind adds to the chill — but then Chicago’s known as the Windy City.
The buildings crowd in on the Chicago River which, with it’s distinct north and south branches, is more like two rivers.
Strange though it may seem, it does not flow into Lake Michigan as locks have been installed to reverse the flow and the inhabitants of Chicago actually drink the water from Lake Michigan which, as part of the vast but landlocked Great Lakes, is fresh water. A huge purification plant juts out into the lake and small islands can be seen on the lake which are the intake points for water going into the filtration system.
Near Lake Michigan the built-up area abruptly stops giving way to the light, airy, enormous Grant Park — where they annually hold the world’s largest Jazz festival.
In the centre of the park is the spectacular ornate Buckingham memorial fountain with it’s prancing bronze horses and multi-terraced circular fountains.
A central spout periodically shoots a jet of water hundreds of feet into the air. Inevitably it’s the world’s largest fountain.
The tallest building of all, Sears Tower, is best entered, from Wacker Drive, through the greenhouse, an extraordinary indoor garden of trees, shrubs and colourful flowers.
A lightning fast lift then shoots you skyward to the 103rd floor. This is as high as you can go although in total there are 110 floors reaching to over 1,400 feet. If the two vertical antenna are included, with their enormously powerful strobe lights to warn aircraft at night, then the height rises to over 1,700 feet.
The view is spectacular especially over mid-town Chicago and the lake’s shore. In a sense you’re too high, a feeling of unearthly detachment pervades — it’s more like stationary low flying. Apart from the view there is plenty more: the tower has been thoroughly “merchandised”. Restaurants, a multitude of shops, sculptures and a Visitors Centre which includes a detailed model of the tower and audio visual presentations.
The most prominent building after the Sears Tower is the John Hancock Centre. John Hancock was the first signatory to the declaration of independence.
The Centre, at first glance, has some similarities with the Sears Tower — it’s very tall, black and has twin white antennas reaching to the heavens from it’s top. But it’s a more simple, perhaps graceful, form as opposed to the austere, even ominous appearance of Sears. It’s become known to some locals as Big John and those who take it’s lifts (the fastest in the world) to the observatory on the 94th floor are said to be “Sitting on Big John’s shoulders”.
If anything the outlook is somewhat better than Sears for the Centre is more centrally positioned and gives superb views over Lake Michigan, the water front, downtown and, of course, the majesty of Sears Tower.
Portable, cordless mini-audio units are provided so that at each side you can hear a recorded commentary on the vista before you. The sight is breath taking at night when you can sense the pulse and vitality of the city and begin to realise why Frank Sinatra continues to insist: “This is my kind of town”.
Back at ground level State Street (that Great Street, as Sinatra called it) has been developed as a thoroughfare with trees, flowers and wide pedestrian areas.
One could imagine that with claims like having so many of the world’s tallest buildings, busiest airport, the largest office block (The Merchandise Mart), the largest fountain, the tallest church spire, the cosmopolitan inhabitants would feel compelled to brag about their spectacular city.
Not really: they put their efforts into enjoying themselves — especially at the weekends.
The wealthy on their yachts, the less well-off being entertained by some of the best dressed and most polished street buskers I’ve seen. Or skate boarding down the slope of a Picasso sculpture (they stopped when I pointed my camera at them).
An example of Chicago at play is the annual Chicago Tribune Ribfest when over 600 people gather in Grant Park and vie for the prize for the best prepared and barbecued spare ribs.
The barbecues themselves are a riot of inventiveness and showmanship — one was literally the shape and size of small railway locomotive. The dress of the competitors can be even more bizarre — dazzling white European Chefs to Blonde Hawaiian maidens.
The enjoyment is really in the preparing, cooking and the camaraderie, with lots of beer, music and laughter. A great way to spend a Sunday. To think this town once had prohibition!
So, yes, Chicago is a tall kind of town but it’s also a warm hearted, fun kind of town. Sinatra was right — it’s my kind of town too. |