IN BRIEF

St. Louis once stood as an island of civilization in the vast, unsettled American West. Today, it’s a heartland metropolis with an urbanity that doesn’t quite hide all the rough frontier edges. It’s a city with multiple personalities, a geographical and cultural crossroads, a city of barges and BMWs, of mirrored office towers, tidy brick homes and some of the most gracious mansion-lined streets in the country.

St. Louis had quite a heyday—once the nation’s fourth-largest city, the site of the 1904 World’s Fair and Olympics, and the place where Scott Joplin rolled out ragtime tunes and Dred Scott filed his landmark lawsuit for freedom. But present-day vitality can be seen in the city’s neighborhoods, where sidewalk cafes, ethnic restaurants, and new shops and galleries have launched a rediscovery of their distinctive character. Witness also the new 70,000-seat Trans World Dome at America’s Center—proud home of the St. Louis Rams—and the 20,000-seat Kiel Center, hosting the city’s hockey club (the Blues) and soccer team (the Ambush).

BIRD’S-EYE VIEW

Since the 1960s, the Gateway Arch has been the symbol of the city’s historic role as gateway to westward exploration and expansion as well as a symbol of its modernism. This impressive work of art and engineering sits on the banks of the Mississippi River and is the city’s front door. From it you can walk into the heart of downtown or to the downtown of a century ago (maintained in the restored buildings and cobblestone streets of Laclede’s Landing, north of the Arch). The riverfront casino boats, sports stadiums, department stores and expanded convention center are all within walking distance. Clayton, on the western edge of the city, is a thriving “second downtown,” with its own impressive concentration of businesses, hotels, restaurants and shops.

The city proper is actually rather small, and such interesting areas as Soulard, the Central West End, the Italian neighborhood called The Hill, and the funky, great-for-strolling enclave called the U-City Loop are no more than 10 or 15 minutes from downtown by car.

ESPECIALLY FOR KIDS

The widely acclaimed, free St. Louis Zoo; animated dinosaurs and outer space displays at the Saint Louis Science Center; the walk-through maze and circular slide at The Magic House; the miniature zoo at Grant’s Farm; the eclectic displays at the City Museum.

CITYSCAN

1 Jan, New Year’s Day; 18 Jan, Martin Luther King Day; 15 Feb, Presidents’ Day; 31 May, Memorial Day; 4 Jul, Independence Day; 6 Sep, Labor Day; 11 Nov, Veterans Day; 25 Nov, Thanksgiving; 25 Dec, Christmas.

PERFORMING ARTS

St. Louis has never lost its early claim as a center for entertainment and shows in the Midwest. The city supports everything from the St. Louis Symphony to the Broadway-style plays put on at the Muny Opera, the oldest theater of its kind in the country.

Kiel Center. In its fourth year of operation, this 20,000-seat arena boasts a state-of-the-art audio/video system. In addition to its role as a venue for touring entertainers and ensembles, it’s a home for the St. Louis Blues hockey club, the St. Louis Ambush soccer club and the St. Louis University Billikens basketball team. Performances for 1998 include such artists as Eric Clapton and spectacles such as Champions on Ice. 1401 Clark St., phone 314-622-5435.

Dance St. Louis offers internationally renowned artists performing ballet, tap, ethnic and avant-garde dance. Shows are at the Fox and Edison Theatres. Dance St. Louis, 634 N. Grand, Suite 1102, phone 314-534-5000. (Fox Theatre, 527 N. Grand, phone 314-534-1678. Edison Theatre, Campus Box 1119, Washington University, phone 314-935-6543.)

Opera Theatre of Saint Louis. The Opera Theatre annually produces a five-week festival season (May-June) that mixes standards, rare and new works, all performed in English and accompanied by members of the St. Louis Symphony. Tickets start at US$17. Performances at the Loretto-Hilton Center on the campus of Webster University, 130 Edgar Rd., Webster Groves (southwest of St. Louis and 15 minutes from downtown), phone 314-961-0171.

St. Louis Symphony Orchestra. Nearly 200 concerts ranging from classical to pops are performed each year by this Grammy Award-winning orchestra, conducted by Hans Vonk. Performances year round, mostly at Powell Symphony Hall. In the summer, concerts are at Queeny Park. Powell is at 718 N. Grand Blvd., phone 314-534-1700.

Repertory Theatre of St. Louis. St. Louis’ professional resident theater presenting dramas and musicals in an intimate setting. Both new and classic productions. Season runs September-April, tickets run US$9-$42.00 Performances are at the Loretto-Hilton Center on the campus of Webster University, 130 Edgar Rd., Webster Groves, phone 314-968-4925.

Purchase tickets for most performances at the box office where the performance will be. The customer service areas at Famous-Barr department stores and Streetside Records also sell tickets for most major performances with a small service charge per ticket. To order by phone using a major credit card, call Dialtix at phone 314-969-1800 or Ticketmaster at 314-938-4242. Both charge a small service fee.

Powell Symphony Hall. An incredibly ornate hall that is the site of most performances by the St. Louis Symphony as well as host of touring symphonic and other musical ensembles. 718 N. Grand Blvd., phone 314-534-1700.

St. Louis Black Repertory Company. Missouri’s largest black performing arts organization enters its 21st season, presenting works by African-American playwrights. January-June, with performances Thursday-Sunday. US$15-$25. At the Grandel Square Theatre, 3610 Grandel Square, phone 314-534-1834 or 314-534-3807.

Fox Theatre. Constructed in 1929 and renovated in 1985, this movie palace—whose richly embellished interior evokes the Gilded Age—hosts Broadway shows, concerts and dance presentations. Tours every Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday at 10:30 am. 527 N. Grand Blvd., phone 314-534-1678.

Riverport Amphitheatre provides covered, reserved seating as well as festival seating on a hillside lawn. State-of-the-art sound system and four video screens. Variety of performances each season (May-September); 1998’s diverse schedule includes such artists as Clint Black, James Taylor, Michael Crawford and Pearl Jam. Northwest of downtown at 14141 Riverport Dr., Maryland Heights, phone 314-298-9944 or 314-968-1800.

The Muny. A huge, outdoor amphitheater that’s the oldest and largest musical theater in the U.S. Seats about 12,000, with nearly 1, 500 seats free to the public. Season is mid June through mid August. In Forest Park. Phone 314-361-1900.

NIGHTLIFE

St. Louis has plenty of nightclubs for dancing the night away and just as many places for cozier, more low-key evenings. Scores of pubs and taverns offer live musical entertainment as well.

Funny Bone Comedy Club. Nationally known comedians hold court. Beer and mixed drinks served (two-drink minimum). Cover US$8-$14. Shows Monday-Friday at 8 pm with an extra one at 10:45 pm Friday. Saturday shows are 7:30 pm, 10 pm and midnight. Reservations advisable. 940 W. Port Plaza (northwest of downtown), phone 314-469-6692.

Mississippi Nights. Nationally known musicians holding forth with alternative, rock ’n’ roll, jazz and other musical forms in an intimate setting. Table seating. Beer and mixed drinks. Ticket prices and show times vary depending upon the performer. Best to purchase tickets in advance at the Mississippi Nights box office or through one of the other ticket services. 914 N. 1st St., (downtown at Laclede’s Landing), phone 314-421-3853.

St. Louis Casa Loma Ballroom. Dance to swing Thursday 7-11 pm, try ballroom dancing (with complimentary lessons) Friday 7:30 pm-midnight, get into Latin or rock ’n’ roll Saturday 7:30 pm-12:30 am. Cover varies. Just south of downtown at 3354 Iowa, phone 314-664-8000.

John D. McGurk’s. Quaint Irish pub in historic Soulard, complete with Celtic bands playing regularly. All types of international beer and ale as well as mixed drinks. The outdoor garden is great in the summer and fall. Monday-Saturday 11 am-1:30 am, Sunday 4 pm-midnight. Music starts at 9 pm weekends, at 8:30 pm weeknights. No cover. 1200 Russell Blvd., phone 314-776-8309.

The President Casino on the {3{Admiral}3}. The area’s largest dockside casino features slots, blackjack, craps, video poker, video blackjack, live poker. Two restaurants, including the recently opened President’s Buffet. Daily 8 am-4 am. US$2 admission. St. Louis Levee, below the Gateway Arch. Phone 314-622-3000.

Kennedy’s 2nd Street Company. Located on historic Laclede’s Landing in a renovated 19th-century cutlery factory, Kennedy’s offers live progressive/alternative music every night 9 pm-2:30 am. Cover depends on the band, but it’s usually US$3. 612 N. 2nd St., phone 314-421-3655.

Little Bit of Texas. Huge dance floor and plenty of country music and crowds of line dancers and two-steppers. Live bands perform Wednesday-Saturday. Free country-dance lessons each night. Monday-Friday 4 pm-1:30 am, Saturday 6 pm-1:30 am, Sunday Family Day 4 pm-midnight. US$3 cover after 7 pm. Twenty minutes northwest of downtown. Take Highway 70 West past Highway 270 to Earth City Expressway North, then left on Rider Trail South. Phone 314-298-3927.

Syberg’s: An Eating & Drinking Co. Casual place to have a few drinks or sample some of Syberg’s famous shark chunks. Monday-Saturday 11 am-1:30 am, Sunday 4 pm-midnight. Generally, food is served till one hour before closing. 7802 Gravois Rd., phone 314-832-3560, or 2211 Market (in the Hampton Inn), phone 314-231-2430.

{3{Casino Queen}3}. Board her in East St. Louis across from the Gateway Arch. The old fashioned paddle-wheel boat has three decks of gaming action with slots, video poker, keno, blackjack, craps, roulette and baccarat. Eleven two-hour cruises up the Mississippi River offered daily, starting at 9 am. US$2 admission. For reservations, call 800-777-7777.

Blueberry Hill Restaurant and Pub. A St. Louis landmark that packs ’em in for touring bands and popular locals. Munch on a burger and fries, try darts, gaze at the pop culture memorabilia or one of this place’s famed window displays. Sometimes tickets are required; other times you have to pay US$4-$10 for cover. Very casual. Monday-Saturday 11 am-1:30 am, Sunday 11 am-midnight. 6504 Delmar (on the U-City Loop), about 10 minutes from downtown. Phone 314-727-0880.

A.J.’s. It’s downtown on the first floor of the Adam’s Mark Hotel, and it’s always packed with locals and tourists alike. Deejays play top 40 music 8:30 pm-2 am. Happy-hour buffet 4:30-8:30 pm. Drink specials and Lady’s Night on Thursday. Cover varies. Monday-Saturday 4:30 pm-3 am. Adam’s Mark Hotel, 4th and Chestnut, phone 314-241-7400.

Dressel’s. Casual Central West End pub with posters and pictures of Welsh operas and concerts filling the walls. Try their homemade potato chips. The Pub Upstairs offers entertainment evenings Wednesday-Saturday. Monday-Friday lunch 11:30 am-2 pm, dinner and entertainment 5 pm-midnight, Saturday noon-1:30 am, Sunday noon-midnight. 419 N. Euclid Ave., phone 314-361-1060.

Players Island Casino at Riverport Casino Center. Newer than the others, these four casinos offer slots, blackjack, craps, video poker, video blackjack and live poker. You’ll find also a hotel, restaurant, shops, meeting space and an entertainment lounge. Free admission. Daily 9 am-5 am. Riverport Casino Center, Maryland Heights (15 minutes from downtown), phone 314-209-0777.

Boomers. Entertainment seven nights a week. Local pop and rock ’n’ roll bands take the stage, filling the small dance floor (the small space leads to intimate crowds). Beer and mixed drinks, late-night menu mainly pizza and burgers. Never a cover charge. 707 Claymorgan Alley (in Laclede’s Landing), phone 314-621-8155.

Oz Night Club. When St. Louis clubs close, you can go across the Mississippi River where music continues until the wee hours. Mix of pop, Top 40 and modern rock. Nightly 10 pm-5 am. Cover US$2-$5. 300 Monsanto Ave., Sauget, Illinois, phone 618-274-1464.

O’Connell’s Pub. A great place for eating, drinking and talking. Wooden tables and floor, pressed tin ceiling and the best burgers in town. Monday-Thursday 11 am-midnight, Friday and Saturday 11 am-3 am, Sunday noon-10 pm. 4652 Shaw Ave. at Kingshighway, phone 314-773-6600.

Station Casino St. Charles. After the slots, blackjack, live poker and other games, repair to the Broiler, with some of the city’s best steaks. Free admission. Monday-Thursday 8 am-5 am, Friday and Saturday open 24 hours, Sunday 8 am-5 am. I-70 at the Missouri River (20 minutes from downtown, 10 minutes west of the airport), phone 314-949-7777 or 800-325-7777.

1860s Hard Shell Cafe & Bar. St. Louis’ premier blues club, in the heart of Soulard, about five minutes from downtown. Live blues and rock every night. Bands start nightly 9 pm; closes at 1 am. Cover (US$2-$5) Friday and Saturday. 1860 S. 9th St., phone 314-231-1860.

The Complex. Multilevel gay bar. Upstairs dance floor with a mix of disco, house and pop. Downstairs leather bar features underground house sounds. Drag shows at 10 pm Tuesday and Sunday nights. Open nightly 4 pm-3 am. Cover is US$3 after midnight Friday and Saturday. 3511 Chouteau (downtown), phone 314-772-2645.

BB’s Jazz Blues and Soup. Live music nightly—blues, jazz, Latin jazz and rhythm and blues. Monday-Friday 11:30 am-2:30 am, Saturday 5:30 pm-3 am. Cover: US$3-$5. 700 S. Broadway (downtown), phone 314-436-5222.

Attitudes. Lesbian club with a giant mirrored stiletto pump over the dance floor. Country and swing Friday. Retro, Top 40 and disco on other nights. Adjacent cafe serves light fare, burgers on weekends. Tuesday-Saturday 6:30 pm-3 am. 4100 Manchester (downtown), phone 314-534-3858.

Mike and Min’s. Small pub that really packs ’em in when the bands play. Great place to hear blues. Shows Wednesday-Saturday at 9 pm. US$2 cover Thursday, US$3 Friday and Saturday. 925 Geyer Ave. (in the Soulard District), phone 314-421-1655.