Having spearheaded the Industrial Revolution, colonized two fifths of the globe, and won every foreign war in its history but two, Britain seems intent on making the world forget its tiny size. But this small island nation is just that: small. The rolling farms of the south and the rugged cliffs of the north are only a day’s train ride apart, and peoples as diverse as London clubbers, Cornish miners, Welsh students, and Gaelic monks all occupy a land area half the size of Spain. It’s perhaps because its residents keep such close quarters that Britain has been rocked by a political history bloodier and more thrilling than most, a past whose defiant fortresses, subterranean dungeons, imposing castles, and expansive battlefields still account for much of the island’s appeal. But beyond the stereotypical snapshots of of Merry Olde England—gabled cottages with herbaceous borders, tweed-clad farmers shepherding their flocks—Britain today is a cosmopolitan destination driven by international energy. Though the British Empire may have ended with a whimper, its legacy survives in multicultural urban centers and a dynamic arts and theater scene—the most accessible in the world, as long as English remains the planet’s most widespread language. Brits eat kebab as often as they do lemon curd and scones, and five-story dance clubs in post-industrial settings draw as much attention as fairy-tale country homes with picturesque views.
Travelers who come to Ireland with images from poetry or film in mind will not be disappointed: spectacular, windswept scenery wraps the coast, mist cloaks dramatic mountain peaks, and the dazzling greens of Ireland’s hills and vales prove the moniker “Emerald Isle” no exaggeration. Traditional music and pub culture thrive in village and city alike, and despite the pervasive influences of globalization on one of Europe’s fastest-growing economies, the voices—literary, mythical, wise-cracking—of an older Ireland still sound out loud and strong.
Facts and Figures
Capitals: London (UK and England), Cardiff (Wales), Edinburgh (Scotland), Belfast (Northern Ireland), Dublin (Republic of Ireland).
Lands: England and Scotland are kingdoms, Wales is a principality, and Northern Ireland is a constituent part of the United Kingdom. Ireland is a republic. Together they comprise the British Isles.
Land Areas: Great Britain 94,251 sq. mi. (244,110 sq. km). Northern Ireland 5,452 sq. mi. (14,120 sq. km). Ireland 27,137 sq. mi. (70,285 sq. km). Populations: England 49.1 million, Wales 2.9 million, Scotland 5.1 million, Northern Ireland 1.6 million, Republic of Ireland 3.8 million.
When to Go
The popularity of Britain and Ireland as tourist destinations makes it wise to plan around the multitudes that smother the Isles in high season. While the weather is most hospitable from June to August, hostels, B&Bs, and sights will be packed. Spring or autumn (Apr.-May and Sept.-Oct.) are more appealing times to visit; the weather is still reasonable and flights less expensive. If you intend to visit large cities and linger indoors at museums and theaters, traveling during the off season (Nov.-Mar., excluding holidays), when airfares and rooms are cheapest, is most economical. Keep in mind, however, that sights, accommodations (particularly hostels), and tourist information centres often run reduced hours or even close, especially in rural regions.
Weather
In Britain, the nursery rhyme “Rain, Rain, Go Away” is less a hopeful plea than a pitiful exercise in futility. Regardless of when you choose to go, it will rain. Scotland, Wales, and Ireland are especially soggy; be prepared with warm, waterproof clothing at all times. Relatively speaking, April is the driest month in Ireland (though in England it’s the cruellest), especially on the east coast near Dublin. Aside from the heavenly drool, the weather in Britain and Ireland is subject to frequent changes but few extremes. Excluding high altitudes and northern Scotland, temperatures average in the mid-60°s Fahrenheit (15-20°C) in summer and the low 40°s Fahrenheit (5-7°C) during winter. In general, southern England is pleasant and dry May through September. Another factor to consider is hours of daylight, particularly if you’re going to Scotland—Edinburgh, after all, is on the same line of latitude as northern Labrador. In winter, the sun sets around 4pm, depending on how far north you are. Those planning outdoor activities will enjoy the best conditions in summer.
Those who visit Britain to seek its past in the grand castles and cathedrals that dot the landscape, to exult in the vast collections of its museums, or to seek solitude in its beautiful parks will certainly find more than enough of those aspects to satisfy them. But just as much a part of Britain are the hip clubs of its cities and the powerful theater of the West End. Perhaps the most alluring feature of the island is its size: two hours on a train can take you from large cities to historic towns to breathtaking hiking regions and back.
Similarly, travelers who come to Ireland with images from poetry or from film won’t be disappointed: spectacular, windswept scenery wraps around the coast, and small mountain chains punctuate interior expanses of bogland. While some fear that the encroachment of international influences signifies the extinction of native folkways, the survival of traditional music and pub culture in both rural and urban areas proves that Irish identity has not faded, but rather evolved.
BRITAIN & IRELAND:
FACTS & FIGURES
Capitals: London (U.K. and England), Cardiff (Wales), Edinburgh (Scotland), Belfast (Northern Ireland), Dublin (Republic of Ireland).
The kingdoms and principalities in the U.K. are England, Scotland, Wales, and Northern Ireland.
Land Area: Great Britain 93,000 sq. mi. (244,100 sq. km.). Ireland 27,450 sq. mi. (70,280 sq km.)
Populations: England 49.1 million, Scotland 5.1 million, Wales 2.9 million, Northern Ireland 1.6 million, Republic of Ireland 3.6 million.
FROM LAND'S END TO JOHN O'GROATS
Most visitors start with London — who can blame them — but once you've had your fill of the big city, skip the satanic mills and head to the green and pleasant hills. The Highlands of Scotland are home to some of Europe's most beautiful and desolate scenery, while English Cumbria is home to the romantic hills and waters of the peaceful Lake District. Across the sea, the bizarre honeycomb columns of the Giant’s Causeway in Northern Ireland spill out from the Antrim Coast, a long strip of rocky crags and white beaches. In the Republicof Ireland, the spectacular drop of the Cliffs of Moher mark the boundary of the Burren, an eerie, moon-like limestone plateau filled with unusual species of wildflowers from across Europe. If you're after a less natural type of history, the only question is how far back you want to go. Stonehenge is the most famous prehistoric site, but there are plenty of other examples, including the quoits (ancient burial chambers) of Cornwall. Hadrian’s Wall marks a Roman emperor’s frustration with his pesky neighbors to the north, while the baths at Bath hint at more relaxed moments for the Romans. The turbulent times following the Romans' departure are captured by the thousands of defensive fortifications scattered throughout the Isles. Edward I of England intimidated the Welsh with a string of massive border castles, while Scottish kings brooded from atop extinct volcanoes in Edinburgh and Stirling. England's turbulent religious past left most of its great medieval abbeys in ruins, but the cathedrals still stand resplendent, from the great Gothic masterpiece of gigantic York Minster, to Wren's elegant (and still bigger) St. Paul’s, in London.
Today religious and civil strife may have subsided, but regional rivalries have not dissappeared — they've just been made more profitable. Football (soccer, if you must) fanaticism is everywhere: the Queen Mum is an Arsenal fan and Salman Rushdie guns for Tottenham. The Rugby World Cup will be over by the time you read this, but scrums still keep taking place in the Millennium Stadium, Cardiff. Discouraged by the terrace yobs and the muddy forwards? Cricket is altogether more refined—watch the men in white at Lords in London. Tennis, too, demands a more genteel conduct, and the strawberries and cream at Wimbledon are a perfect example, especially when the rain holds off. The surf is up all along the Atlantic coast in Cornwall, while students balance more sedately as they punt down the lazy waters of Oxford and Cambridge. And of course, every national park has its bike rental stores, and any town worth its boots will see kickabouts taking place—go forth, traveler, and seek your game. |
