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Spain & Portugal Travel Guide

Spain, Portugal, and Morocco are alive. Two millennia of invading cultures have come and gone from this southwestern-most corner of Europe, and the result is a vibrant, if confused, alegría. The region bursts at the seams. You can see it every Sunday in Madrid’s Rastro, in the happy chaos of Fez’s medina, in the sidewalk cafes of Lisbon’s Baixa, and in Spain’s spectacular festivals. During Carnaval in Cádiz, Valencia’s Las Fallas, Sevilla’s Feria de Abril, and Pamplona’s infamous San Fermines, there is no denying the region’s overwhelming cultural exuberance. Still, like all passions, it is not entirely manic. Iberia’s poignant expressions of heartbreak are often as blood-quickening as its celebrations. The ritually tragic expressions inherent in flamenco and fado bring tears to the eyes of even the most macho of bullfighters, who in turn create tragedies of life-and-death on the bloody sand. Actual tragedy on a larger scale has scarred Spain for a good part of this century—Picasso’s powerfully cryptic Guernica and the propagandistic Valley of the Fallen give travelers a taste of the pain of Fascism.

From the traditionally conservative to the unconventionally decadent, the buildings and monuments of Iberia form a collage of architectural styles. The remains of ancient civilizations are everywhere—from the ruins of the Roman Augusta Emerita at Mérida to the Torre D’en Gaumés Talayotic settlement in Menorca. Despite the Reconquest’s attempt to desecrate everything Muslim, the Catholic monarchs somehow managed to preserve the essence of Moorish form, as in the spectacular Alhambra in Granada. The still-offbeat tendencies of Spanish architecture are nowhere more apparent than in Barcelona, home to Gaudí’s magnificent, still-unfinished Sagrada Familia, though the recently-opened Guggenheim Museum in Bilbao is equally, if less typically, bizarre. Iberia’s next masterpiece, the aquarium-theater Ciudad de las Artes and Las Ciencias in Valencia, opens its doors this year. Often forgotten amid the cathedrals and museums, Iberia is also home to diverse natural wonders. Here, nature can be the mist that surrounds hikers as they head down into the valleys of the Pyrenee’s Parque Nacional de Ordesa, or the parched, dusty plains of Cervantes' Castilla La Mancha. And in the Canary Islands, nature comes in the form of the wildflower-covered volcanic craters of Parque Nacional de las Cañadas del Teide and the serene and spectacular laurasilva forest on Gomera.

SPAIN

Spain is a budget traveler’s dream. It is an inexpensive, politically stable, country where art and architecture, beaches, and nightlife vie for supremacy. The landscape is a microcosm of all that Europe has to offer. You can ski or surf, enjoy Picasso or cave paintings, dance until dawn or just chat in a plaza cafe. It is the perfect destination for first-time travelers, for seasoned adventurers, for families with young children, or for college students in search of that “craziest summer ever.”

Madrid, Barcelona, and Sevilla—Spain’s three great cities—offer unique blends of art, architecture, and cosmopolitan life. The northeast has become a mecca for art lovers; it encompasses not only Barcelona, but also the Costa Brava, which inspired the likes of Chagall and Dalí and is still home to many of Dalí’s works. Farther north are the natural havens of the Pyrenees and Picos de Europa where adventure tourism reigns. Though less of a tourist draw, the Baroque cathedrals of Burgos and León draw church enthusiasts; but no religious monument in Spain can compete with the crowds at the cathedral in Santiago de Compostela, which marks the end of the Camino de Santiago. For partiers, Spain offers some of the world’s wildest festivals and its most hopping nightlife. And then there is Andalucía, Spain’s southernmost region and the breeding ground for those passionate cultural expressions (flamenco, bullfighting, tapas) that set Spain significantly apart from the rest of Europe.

PORTUGAL

Sandwiched between Spain and the Atlantic Ocean, Portugal is the forgotten country of Western Europe. What most people do know of Portugal is superficial; it colonized Brazil, invented sugary-sweet port wine, and hosted Expo ‘98 (which was, incidentally, a disaster). But there is much more to discover in Portugal. It shares the beaches, nightlife, and strong architectural tradition of its larger neighbor to the east, yet culturally and geographically it is quite distinct. Much of the land is more undeveloped than Spain’s, and some of its regions—particularly Trás-os-Montes in the north—are more pristine than any in Europe. Its small towns have a similarly untouched feel, with medieval castles overlooking rushing rivers and peaceful praças. Portugal’s greatest strength, like Spain’s, is its diversity. Lisbon, the capital and largest city, is a fascinating and growing metropolis. To the south, the Algarve, Portugal’s most touristed region, offers the country’s wildest nightlife and its most spectacular beaches. To the north are the thriving university town of Coimbra, the vibrant regional capital of Porto, and the unrivaled wilderness and charming towns of Portugal’s hinterland.

MOROCCO
Morocco is not a land of hustlers, drugs, and prostitutes, nor is it a land of snake charmers and carpet sellers. It is, however, a land of extremes, characterized by the snow-capped peaks of the Atlas mountains and the hot sun on golden sand dunes, by industrialized coastal cities and isolated desert towns, by the sheer insanity of Marrakesh’s Djemâa el-Fna and the peaceful seclusion of Essaouira’s beaches. European backpackers come to Morocco to “see Africa,” but they stay for the medinas (large outdoor markets where you can buy everything from a camel to a toothbrush to fresh orange juice), the excursions (treks on foot, four-wheel-drive, and camel into the Sahara or up North Africa’s highest peak), and the history (towering mosques, crumbling kasbahs, and Roman ruins).

WHEN TO VISIT

Summer is high season (temporada alta) for coastal and interior regions in Spain, Portugal and Morocco; winter is high season for ski resorts and the Canary Islands. In many parts of Spain and Portugal, high season extends back to Semana Santa (Holy Week; Mar. 29-Apr. 4) and includes festival days. Tourism reaches its height in August; the coastal regions overflow while inland cities empty out, leaving closed offices, restaurants, and lodgings. Traveling in the off-season (temporada baja) has many advantages, most noticeably lighter crowds and lower prices. Many hostels cut their prices by 50% or more, and reservations are seldom necessary. But while major cities and university towns may burst with vitality, many smaller seaside towns virtually shut down. During Morocco’s momentous religious event, tthe Muslim holy month of Ramadan, there is little activity outside the sacred realm.

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