Lord Byron, poet and playboy extraordinaire, once said Seville was “a pleasant city famous for oranges and women”. His observation still rings true. As one of the three great cities of Andalucia in southern Spain, Seville offers a heady mix of old and new, Moorish and Christian monuments and a number of top attractions within striking distance.

The River Guadalquivir sweeps gracefully round the western side of Seville. Except for the old EXPO site, most points of interest lie in the eastern half of the city. The Santa Cruz quarter in the heart of old Seville with its narrow winding lanes separating tall stone houses with decorative iron grilles and the tolling of cathedral bells echoing overhead is a perfect spot to base yourself. Such conspicuous quaintness comes at a price though, for this area is all too firmly on the tourist circuit. In season those endless, shuffling packs of tourists will grate so choose your time carefully.

But there’s a very good reason for all the attention lavished on the place. Byron’s oranges and women don’t get much of a look in. Just south and west of Santa Cruz lie several great monuments, remnants of the Moorish conquest when all of Andalucia fell to Islam. The Moors crossed over from North Africa in 710AD and for more than 700 years they established a sophisticated civilisation. Seville, Granada and Cordoba were its main centres and Seville remains the largest and most cosmopolitan of the three.

The Giralda is perhaps its most eye-catching monument. Originally built as a minaret and observatory in the 12th century, it now serves as the Cathedral’s belfry where you can climb the tower to an impressive bell chamber by way of inclined ramps.

There have been some changes over the 800 years since it was built. Its famous copper spheres, which once capped the structuremaking it a beacon for travellers, have long since gone. Small balconies and the top four stories have been added over the centuries. Take these away and you have a dead ringer for the Kotoubia Minaret in Marrakesh.

The Giralda affords the best views over Seville and the adjoining Cathedral. Depending on who you read, the Cathedral is the second or third largest in the world. Completed in 1506, it took 100 years to build. Apart from the Giralda, the Patio de los Naranjos — a sort of entrance court — is all that remains of the Moorish mosque.

It’s a gloomy place, lined with huge chapels, tombs and antechambers but one real highlight is a vast, gleaming altar — said to be the largest in the world and the work of one craftsman. Gilded with absurd amounts of gold, this extraordinary woodcarving depicts the life of Christ.

The city boasts the Alcazar, a bewildering complex of palace apartments, patios and salons which have been renovated, rebuilt and added to by a succession of Spanish kings. In Moorish times it was a palace. Unfortunately most of this heritage has disappeared and today it is a somewhat austere and lifeless place. It’s much better to make for the Plaza de Espana and the adjoining Maria Luisa Park.

The Plaza is one of the most distinctive buildings in Spain, a semi-circular extravaganza of towers, colonnades, fountains and bridges. It was built for the 1929 Fair of the Americas and its base is an impressive sweep of glazed ceramic tiles that illustrate scenes from each province.

Following the river, a long stretch of road leads past the Queen’s Sewing Room to the 12-sided Gold Tower (originally part of the Alcazar’s fortifications) where gold plundered from the Americas was brought back and stored. The charming Isabel Bridge marks an end to the riverside’s most appealing frontage.

There are churches galore in Seville, many converted from ancient mosques, and art aficionados will not be disappointed by the Museo de Bellas Artes or the Museo del Arts Contemporaneo.

Visitors can also be tempted by the hilly region to the south of the city where whitewashed villages cluster beneath old castles or churches. The Pueblos Blancos, or White Towns, are quaint rather than historic, but nonetheless enjoyable. This is an extensive area and though many outlying parts are accessible by bus, a car is more convenient.

Ronda, about 140km south towards the Costa del Sol, is one of the more famous towns but not quite the most picturesque. That honour goes to Arcos de la Frontera or Zahara de la Sierra. Both huddle around craggy outcrops of rock and have reasonable accommodation. Beyond Ronda and down towards the coast there are routes to Malaga and, better still, Algeciras.

Despite the invasion of day-trippers to Ronda, it is generally a relaxed place with plenty of quiet walks. A sheer river gorge, which cuts the town into old and new is spanned by a marvellous 18th century bridge. This is the focus of most tourists’ attention, but its older Moorish quarter dotted with Renaissance mansions and churches is also just as appealing. The Alcazar, or citadel, lies mostly in ruins apart from the main Almocabar Gate through which Christians marched in 1485.

If one is prepared to put aside qualms about bullfighting the local bullring is worth a visit. Built in 1781, this was one of Spain’s first and its May Corrida is known throughout the country. The museum is open all year and pays homage to illustrious fighters of old. On the edge of Ronda lie its oldest bridges, the Arab Baths and stretches of fortification. Beyond are hills, fields and farms that invite easy, random walks. The Sierra del Oreganal, about eight kilometres south, is tempting even if you don’t make it to Jarastepar, the summit. And there is little problem hitching a ride back to town treat yourself to a warm bath and a hearty dinner.