Ever since John of Gaunt’s daughter — Philippa of Lancaster — married King Joao I in 1387, Britain has enjoyed a special relationship with Portugal.

“Which hotel please?” asked the politest taxi driver I have ever met. This was beginning to feel like a little pocket of England that had flown south to find the sun. Brits make up the majority of visitors and expats in the Algarve, swapping the unpredictability of our weather for a guaranteed 3000 hours of sunshine a year.
On the south coast the sea is usually calm. A brochure announces in near perfect English: “No wavers more than 20cms.” The water temperature reaches 22ÞC (70ÞF) in summer and temperatures on land can soar to a blistering 36ÞC (98ÞF).
Even winter temperatures manage to nudge 70ÞF at midday. Yet the local farmers have transformed a dry, harsh terrain into the “Garden of Portugal”.

The Algarve takes its name from the Arabic el gharb or “the land beyond”. You can see the Moorish ancestry in the lean, pert faces of the people and in the town names, such as Alfambra and Bensafrim, which remind you that North Africa is just across the water to the south. The past is still present in the architecture and traditions, providing a spicy backdrop to your Mediterranean meanderings. An air-conditioned tourist coach screeched to a halt ahead of us, as a peasant farmer led his horse and cart across the main road. Two worlds trying to co-operate across an apparently incompatible boundary.

Time-share villas rub shoulders with ancient farm houses. Designer sports complexes dovetail into orange and olive groves.
As we drove through forests of cork oaks and passed whitewashed apartments draped with bougainvillea, I scanned the skies for clouds. There was one — scarcely more than a wispy smudge on a deep blue canvas. My main problems were to drink enough fluids and avoid sunburn.

“We give you a warm welcome here,” said one hotelier, playing down his own vested interest in keeping visitors happy. “We want you to keep coming back, so we don’t try to rip you off.” Food and accommodation is relatively inexpensive, and cheap packages are offered by scores of tour operators. Stylish villas are slowly spreading across the rocky landscape, and well-furnished rooms in landscaped gardens cost less than a wardrobe in a faded Brighton hotel.

The Algarve provides a climate which makes you feel healthy, and the resorts supply the facilities for you to do something about it. Surfers ride the Atlantic rollers, windsurfers catch the compelling breezes, scuba divers plunge into clear water, and yachts explore the dramatic coastline. But golf and tennis head the field. Since the building of Faro airport in 1968, golf courses have flourished throughout the Algarve, with some spectacular fairways on cliff tops overlooking the sea or weaving through eucalyptus and pine woods. It’s enough to make the most patriotic Scotsman forsake his windblasted tees, and unwind in comfort under the sun.

Not knowing one end of a club from the other, I called on the professional advice of Joaquim Catarino at Vilamoura. “Golf is between the ears,” he told me. “You’ve got to use your head. Don’t try to hit the ball harder. Hit it better.” You must be Joaquim, I thought. My first turf-trimming swipes sent divots spinning and left the ball totally unmoved. “Scooping is only for eating soup,” said Joaquim helpfully.

Tennis isn’t my game either, but the impressively designed complex at Vale do Lobo made me feel like a pro even if my style remained embarrassingly far from Centre Court. Yorkshireman Roger Taylor built on his Wimbledon successes by opening 12 all-weather courts. Although, in the heat of summer, you have to retire to the pool or beach after your brisk early morning sets.

Again, I learned more in 10 minutes of coaching than 10 hours of knocking around with friends. “Hold the racquet like you’re shaking hands,” explained my well-tanned English coach. “Then serve as if you’re chopping wood from a high branch.”
With all this exercise I deserved a hearty meal.
Fishing is now being overtaken by tourism as the region’s major industry, but the smell of charcoal-grilled sardines still draws you towards cafe-styled restaurants on the waterfront. There seems little point resisting the temptation too sit down al fresco with a plate of Sardinha Assada, salad and jug of wine. The fruits of the sea head the menus in most restaurants.

A favourite is Caldeirada, a jumble of fish, shellfish, potatoes and tomatoes, flavoured with onion, garlic and pimento. For dessert I indulged in Vacherin — a heavenly concoction involving liberal helpings of cream, ice cream and strawberries. Never mind the sports, I’d go back just for the desserts.

Every coastal village is devoted to fishing. At night you see strings of lanterns on fishing boats. In the morning they return laden with mullet, tunny, turbot, cod, crab, lobster and especially sardines. Portimao is a major fishing port and industrial centre. It’s the largest city in the Algarve, and its new suspension bridge across the Arade River has transformed the previously unacceptable traffic congestion. In the old harbour I boarded one of many boats for a trip past the golden cliffs and caves to snorkel, fish for sardines and assess which sheltered beach to visit next.

From Faro to Cape St Vincent there are many to choose from. Praia da Rocha — 62km from Faro — is the best known and most developed, with highrises and tacky souvenirs. By contrast, Cape St Vincent is isolated, desolate and wind-blown. Turbulent seas pound the rocks around the fort and lighthouse. It’s the most south-westerly point in Europe — and in times past has felt like Fim Do Mundo — the end of the world. Unlike the rest of the Algarve, which feels rather close to England.

Fact File

MONEY:
Portugal’s currency is the escudo, currently exchangeable at 228-230 to the pound. Costs are increasing annually, but Portugal is still one of Europe’s cheapest destinations — a budget of £20-25 a day should suffice when staying in bottom-end accommodation and eating in inexpensive restaurants.

GETTING THERE:
Scheduled year-round flights operate from London and regional British airports to Lisbon, Faro and Porto, while numerous companies sell charter flights (mostly to the Algarve). For details, ring any of the travel agents advertising in TNT Magazine. Portugal can also be reached overland from Britain through France and Spain.

GETTING AROUND:
Portugal has an efficient public transport system, with an effective network of buses and trains. Trains are often cheaper and more scenic, but buses are generally quicker.