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After three days luxuriating aboard a chartered yacht I awoke to see a distant speck of land that has long conjured images of Greek island paradise. Rhodes, stalwart of Greece mythology and modern-day holiday magnet, was the destination. We gathered our belongings in preparation to explore one of the Mediterranean’s most famous islands.
As we approached the marian I tried to envisage the Colossus of Rhodes which once proudly stood astride the harbour’s entrance. This massive bronze statue and ancient wonder is undoubtedly Rhodes’ most famous icon. Built in 300BC, the Colossus took 12 years to complete, but stood for only 50 years before being toppled by an earthquake.
We docked in Mandraki harbour and it wasn’t long before we encountered the famous Greek-Turkish hostility. The enormous, hairy harbour master developed a deep frown on his forehead when he saw the Turkish flag flying atop the ship’s mast. Our Turkish captain Raphael had lied that he regularly took travellers to Greece trouble-free. It was only when Raphael developed a worried look and a screaming match ensued that I became concerned.
My fears were unfounded — the six Melbournites on board promptly convinced the harbour master that hailing from the world’s second largest Greek city made them honorary Greeks. It worked a treat and in no time the formalities were over and he gladly welcomed us on to his island.
Eager to reclaim our land legs we disembarked and headed to the island’s famed medieval town centre. The old town is encircled by an enormous sandstone wall purportedly the best preserved of its type. Within the walls a labyrinth of narrow cobbled streets and splendid buildings greets you.
The old town is car-free, which invites hours of peaceful pedestrianised exploring and preserves the charter of the place. The wall also features many decorative gates, allowing you to duck in and out of the city centre. Essentially there is a nice balance between history and development given the importance of tourism to the island.
Rhodes city’s main attractions are the impressive Palaces of the Grand Masters and Palace of the Knights, each holding classical collections representing the island’s glorious history. Rhodes has survived many masters over the centuries, which is evidenced by the Turkish mosques and bathhouses found alongside Greek and Roman ruins and medieval monuments. The Romans, Crusaders and Ottomans have all contributed to the jungle of architecture that beautifully characterises the place. Even the Italians and Germans this century have controlled the island and indelibly left their mark on the city’s landscape.
Seemingly around each corner there is something varied and eye-catching. This place is really full of beautiful panoramas. Within the maze of streets are amazing shops all eagerly competing for the tourist bucks. While some Greek islands have turned tacky with tourism, Rhodes has somehow retained a degree of style and dignity and the shopping for quality souvenirs is excellent. Your best bet is heading to the enormous daily markets close to the port.
For character you can’t go past the wonderful squares within the old town, filled with older folk resting, kids playing merrily and surrounded by excellent cafés and restaurants.
The frenetic activity here shows how open and inclusive Greek society is and how the town square is the lifeblood of community. In essence the square is a window into Greek social life — a forum and an ideal place to people watch and enjoy a drink away from the unrelenting sun.
When you tire of quiet reflection and wonderful views then hit the streets in the evening as Rhodes’ fame also extends to its nightlife. The island has long been a summer getaway favourite with the Germans and Brits and has taken on a western nightlife to please the punters. With this in mind you are just as likely to find English-style pubs as a taverna serving up mousaka.
Rhodes isn’t just the capital though, it also has sweeping landscapes, important archaeological sites, traditional villages and gorgeous beaches. Kamiros, on the eastern side of the island is the best known archaeological sites. Dating from the 500BC, this wonderful site has been compared to Pompeii and is a famous for its historical importance as its wonderful setting and views over the sea.
Equally famous are the impressive acropolis and Crusader castle at the stunning Lindos, the island’s second city, on the west coast. Given their position the acropolis and castle provided amazing views over Lindos, which is also where the bulk of package tours resorts and impressive beaches are found.
If sunning yourself, relaxing, reading a book or water sports is what you’re after then you are in the right place. Rhodes is surrounded with some of Europe’s most beautiful and clean beaches, such as Falaraki, Tsambika and Kalithea. Locals boast that Rhodes enjoys the most sunlight per annum of any island in the Mediterranean.
The island also possesses many seemingly untouched villages characterised with the famous Greek whitewash and pastel combination. Some of the villages to the south of the island are particularly appealing and untouched by the tourist influx combining traditional life with some spectacular rural scenery. Here you will witness the sunburnt tundra of the island with view of mountains, rolling hills, monasteries, beaches and the ocean.
The island’s infrastructure lends itself as much to independent travellers keen on organising things for themselves as package holidays. As tourism has long been a stable of the island’s economy, every possible need is covered by the friendly locals eager to liberate you from your holiday bucks.
As one of Greece’s best loved islands it has excellent connections for the rest of the Mediterranean and is a great jumping off point for an exploration of the area. Even a fleeting visit will have you begging for more. If you want to relax or explore Rhodes is the ideal place in the sun for fun. |