Mention the South of France and most people will think of the “concrete strip” of the Riviera and the Côte d’Azur. The exclusive resorts of Menton, St Tropez, Ste-Maxime and Monaco may characterise one aspect of the region, but there is a lot more to it than beautiful beaches, bare-breasted babes, billionaire’s boats and beachside bars.

Visitors have been coming to the South of France for thousands of years although none have left such a mark as the Romans. Some of the best examples of Roman architecture outside Italy are here.

Just outside Avignon is the Pont du Gard — a massive aqueduct over the River Gard which was built nearly 2000 years ago. It towers 48 metres above the river, and after a sweaty climb up the steep sides of the valley it is possible to walk through the channel where the water used to flow. This channel is covered by thick slabs of stone to prevent evaporation. The more adventurous can climb onto this covering and walk across to the other side. At certain points the slabs are missing and you have to jump some three or four feet over the holes. The aqueduct is only about 10 feet wide and when the wind rushes up through the valley it can be difficult to balance. After the climb you can cool off with a refreshing dip in the cool, clear waters of the Gard.

Bridges are renowned in their own right in these parts. In Avignon there is the famous Pont St-Bénézet. The bridge is incomplete these days so you have to go the long way round to get to the other side of the river to see the Palais des Papes and the Cathédrale Notre-Dame-des-Doms that tower over the entire town.

In 1309, Pope Clement V moved the papacy here from the Vatican in Rome. It lasted for more than 70 years during which time the Palace was built and expanded. It was a showpiece of luxury which was ideal for the corrupt and decadent lifestyle of the Popes of that time. Long after the papacy moved back to Rome, the Avignon Popes carried on as pretenders.

The Palace is an immense building and takes an awful lot of viewing. It is well worth the effort. The Cathedral at the top of the hill is another giant structure — topped by a gilded statue of the Virgin Mary. When you have had enough of sightseeing there is a remarkably pretty park behind it which is a good place for a relaxing beer or an ice cream.

North of Avignon is the town of Orange. This boasts the best preserved Roman Theatre in the world. Built into a hillside this massive structure still has a nearly perfectly preserved theatre wall 103 metres long and 37 metres high. Set into this is a statue of the Emporer Augustus. Next to the theatre is a large site being excavated. It is believed that this was part of a complex comprising of a forum, temples and a bath house.

The Pont du Gard was built as part of a 50 kilometre aqueduct to ferry water to the large Roman settlement at the town of Nîmes — a place which gave its name to denim. In the centre of the town is a large Roman arena which was built to sit 24,000 people. The arena was the site for the usual run of Christians versus wild animals extravaganzas and gladiatorial combats which is how the average legionnaire wound down after a hard days conquering. This arena could also be flooded for waterborne battles.

The arena is reputed to be one of the best preserved Roman amphitheatres in the world. It is currently used for Spanish style bullfights and corrida å cheval in where bullfighters, including the utterly delicious Marie-Sara fight bulls from horseback.

Also in Nîmes, and reputed to be the best preserved example of it’s type, is the Maison Carrée — a temple, which is now used as an art gallery by the local tourist office.

There is another Roman amphitheatre at nearby Arles, which sits at the apex of the Camargue region. Arles was the Roman capital of Gaul, encompassing France, Spain and Britain. As such an important town, the Romans attempted to create a home away from home.

The arena in Arles is even larger than the one in Nîmes and again is currently in use for Spanish style bullfights. Close by is the Théâtre Antique — a ruined Roman theatre which seated 12,000 people.The theatre is set in a pleasant park littered with broken statuary. You have to pay to get in but if you go down the alleyway by the of the Jardin d’Ete it is possible to climb in for free.

Just outside of the centre of town is the old Roman necropolis of Les Alyscamps. This collection of sarcophagi is set under shady trees. As the Romans used to avoid it after dark, it was used as a meeting place for politicians in the days when that meant a one way trip to the arena and an unequal tussle with a hungry lion.

Arles is one of the most mellow towns in France if not in Europe. It has a wonderful atmosphere and the quality of its light has made it a magnet for artists throughout history. The most famous visitor was Vincent Van Gogh who spent the last few years of his life here. He once painted the trees of Les Alyscamps bright blue — metaphorically speaking, not a petty act of vandalism — and was frequently seen drinking in the Place du Forum (named after the remains of the Roman forum which has been incorporated into the hotel Nord-Pinus). The café Van Gogh in the Place du Forum has been modelled on the famous painting Café de la Nuit. This square is one of the most popular places in Arles for an evening drink.

A final place to visit in this area has to be the ruined hilltop citadel of Les Baux-de-Provence. This is one of France’s top tourist sites, attracting some two million visitors a year. The citadel which towers above the old mediaeval town was built nearly 1000 years ago and lasted for some 600 years until the King of France had it destroyed. The view from the plateau at the top is phenomenal and well worth braving the crowds. If you are feeling particularly flush then you can recapture some of the luxury spirit of the Riviera at the Oustaù de Baumanière — one of France’s top restaurants with two Michelin stars to its name.

The South of France isn’t just about beaches and the somewhat soulless resorts where the rich and vacuous hang out. From the days of the Romans people have been charmed by the atmosphere, and rich heritage baked to perfection by the hot Mediterranean sun.

Camargue region

The harsh Mistral blows straight in from the coast carrying sea spray and sand into the small seaside town of Saintes Maries de la Mer. Stand pipes erected on the beach kick into action, damping down the beach with salt water pumped from the sea in a vain attempt to stop the sand from blowing into town. Even in the lee created by the arena of the old bullring just off the beach, an old man is having problems keeping the sand wet for the Course de Cocade, which is due to start at any time. Most of the seats are full, and the acrid smell of the bulls rises up from the pens where they are kept, before being dispersed by the wind. The truck which brought them from the breeding farms waits in the car park, the driver struggling to light a cigarette as he stands talking to a razatteur, dressed from head to toe in white, except for the red and blue stripe down the side of a well-worn pair of trainers.

The truck is waiting. Unlike the Spanish-style bullfight, the Corrida, in the Course de Cocade the bulls are not harmed — various strings are tied between their horns and the razatteurs have to snatch these with an attachment covered with glorified crochet hooks clasped in their hands.

Timing their runs to perfection, they cross the path of the bull raking at the cocade as the bull drops its head to gore them. As the bull closes in they spring onto the low wooden fence of the barrera which surround the arena before leaping the callejon to the railings above, where the crowd sit. Sometimes the bull follows them over in an attempt to kill. It is a sport where one false move, one split second error of judgment can mean death.

When the bull is beaten or winded, and stands four feet planted square in the sand, the door to the bull pens flies open and a nervous steer ding-a-lings in to lead the bull out. A little way off from the bull-truck is parked a modern ambulance — incongruous in the traditional surroundings. The bulls might not get hurt but the razatteurs often do. The paramedics, life-savers when they are needed, omens of doom when they are not, look nervously around.

The scene is set, and everyone knows their part in the unfolding drama. The course de cocade takes place a couple of times a week during the summer months and, barring accidents, it is a well-worn routine.

By the time that the course is drawing to a close, the sun is beginning to go down and the great flocks of flamingoes have started to flap their way back to the salty inland lakes — called etangs — where they roost and feed. This is one of the few areas in Europe where it is possible to see flamingos, and it is amazing to think that they have flown up from the great lakes of East Africa.

The region is famous for the white horses of the Camargue which used to roam wild over the barren, inhospitable interior. Now they are ridden by the Gardiens — the local cowboys who farm the aggressive black bulls. The Gardiens are not only the guardians of the bulls, they are also the guardians of the traditions and culture of the area. As well as French, they speak Provençal, a strange-sounding local dialect. They have a whole calendar of festivals and can often be seen wearing their distinctive local costume.

If you are lucky, you might be in town for one of the ferrades, when the young bulls are rounded up and branded. All of the Gardiens from a given manade or farm, turn up in their distinctive black jackets and round up the whole herd from the barren expanse of the Camargue. On horseback, they separate the young bulls from the herd and gallop them towards the branding fire. Gathered around are the families of the Gardiens, often wearing the traditional Provençal dress, as this is a time for celebration. A Ferrade is often hot and dusty, and if you get too close you may well end up being charged yourself by a furious and frightened young bull.

When the bull is close to the fire one of the Gardiens will trip it up using the long cattle staff which they all carry. This is fitted with a sharp trident shaped prong on the end which is ideal for goading a recalcitrant bull into action. As soon as the bull is tripped a couple of the younger Gardiens jump on it to wrestle it down to the ground and pin it there for the branding.

As part of this process the bulls ear is cut with the mark of the manade for further identification. The bulls might be young, but they are still quite feisty. It takes a few men to hold it down, and once it is released it will often charge blindly at anything that moves until one of the mounted Gardiens sets it on the right track with a prod in the rear and gallops it back to the herd.

A good atmosphere prevails, and you may well be invited to join the Gardiens in a drink of Pastis — a strong aniseed flavoured alcoholic drink — and even some food.

There is nothing like a walk on the beach to build up an appetite, and after a long evening stroll down by the seafront it is time to eat. Go French and pause for a Pastis at a bar before searching out a restaurant.

There is a surprisingly good choice of restaurants at Saintes Maries de la Mer. At least three which have been mentioned in the Michelin Blue Guide. The seafood is particularly good, freshly landed in the small harbour, as is the traditional Provençal cuisine washed down with a good bottle of Cotes du Rhône — the local wine.

Next morning, if you feel up to it, it is possible to rent out a horse and go riding through the reserve. Vehicles are banned from most of the central area, and the only way to really explore is on horseback. There are many stables which offer hacking into the reserve and it is possible to get quite close to both the flamingos and the bulls on your ride.

The Camargue horses are quite stocky and they have a fair turn of speed when they get going, and a good way to end the ride is to gallop down the beach with spray from the sea whipping in your face as the Mistral blows up from the sea.

The Camargue is a large natural reserve set in the delta between the Rhône and the Petit Rhône rivers. It is shaped like a triangle with the historic town of Arles at the apex and miles of golden beaches at the bottom. Much of the Camargue is made up of the salty etangs, the largest of which is the étang de Vaccares, which was the inspiration for the Alistair Maclean novel which dramatised the annual gypsy festival which happens in the area every May.

Luckily the wind doesn’t blow too often and on the many hot days, the sun worshippers come out. Part of the beach outside of Saintes Maries de la Mer is a naturist zone and is the ideal place to get an all over tan. Be careful though. Parts of you which might not have seen the sun since you were a toddler are very prone to sunburn, which as well as being painful and can really louse up your plans for the weekend!

If lying on the miles of beaches bores you, there is an ornithological park and a museum of Camargue history close by. A bit further afield there is also the historic town of Aigues-Mortes.

This completely walled town was built in 1300 to guard the port which has long since silted up. The walls which ring the town stretch for over a mile, and contains six towers and ten gates. Inside there is a typically French main square where restaurants and cafes spill out towards the statue of Saint Louis.

The Camargue may not be as trendy as other parts of the south coast like the Côte d'Azur and the Riviera further east, but it is an area still well grounded in history with a full and vibrant culture all of it’s own.

It is certainly about the only place in the whole South of France where the locals are not just likely to buy you a drink, but invite you to their place for a meal. Add to this the flamingos, bulls, white horses and miles of golden sand and you have a unique, little known and relatively unspoilt part of France just waiting for you to discover.

To get to Saintes Maries de la Mer, either fly to Marseilles or Montpellier and get the train to Arles. Both British Airways and Air France offer regular daily flights. Prices start from around £200 depending on your travel agent. There is a regular bus service from Arles to Saintes Maries.

Alternatively you can take the train to Arles or Nîmes and hire a car and avoid the long drive up from Marseilles. You can get details from the tourist office in town, phone 90.47.82.55, or fax on 90.97.71.15.

Various companies run motorised safaris from Saintes Maries into the National Park, or if you are feeling more adventurous you can go horse-riding. There are a number of hotels in the area, many of which have stables where you can hire horses. On the route de Cacharel is the Estable chez Kiki (Tel: 90.97.83.27, Fax: 90.97.87.78), which offers fairly cheap rooms, a car-park, a stable and a restaurant/bar which is regularly patronised by the Gardiens. There are two campsites in town, one of which enjoys very good facilities and is right by the beach.