Austin Texas Travel Guide
From granola crunchers to soapbox politicos to midnight music mavens you'll find a hat-full of surprises in the Texas Hill Country. In Austin, that is. The capital of Texas with the self-selected (yet well-earned) motto: Live Music Capital of the World.

Sitting smack-dab in the middle of Texas amid live-oak covered hills, Austin straddles the Colorado River at the end of a string of lakes and basks in the bright-white Southwest sun. Mix in the nearly 50,000-strong University of Texas Longhorns, the never-short-on-character Texas politicians and a herd of prize-winning musicians, and you've got the unique, diverse blend that makes Austin awesome -- even before you add a little Texas-style braggadoccio.

Welcome to a sneak preview of World Travel Direct Guide to Austin, an in-depth look at the character, the terrain, the attractions, the art, the politics and the music of this 10-gallon capital city. Whether you're looking for the best Tex-Mex, the biggest bookstore, the quirkiest festival, the hottest band, the finest running trail, the largest bat population in the Southwest, the most kickin' boot-scootin' bar or a cool spring to ward off the heat, you'll find it here, hand-picked and recommended by two authentic Austinites -- one from north of the river and one from the south.

We've chosen just a few of the 26 chapters to whet your appetite.  Y'all come back for the complete online tour of the pulse of Texas when we'll add chapters spotlighting Restaurants, Politics and Perspective, The Literary Scene, Kidstuff, Daytrips, The Music Scene and much more.

Getting There, Getting Away

"X" marks the spot, and smack dab in the middle of Texas is Austin. There is an old saying in the Lone Star State: "The sun has riz and the sun has set, and I ain't outta Texas yit." That says a lot about traversing the state. Austin is about a three-hour drive south of Dallas, a little less than a three-hour drive west of Houston, and a little more than an hour north of San Antonio. It is about a five-hour drive to Nuevo Laredo, Mexico; a five-hour drive to both the Louisiana and Oklahoma borders; and if you are heading west to New Mexico, plan on taking all day for the eight-hours-plus drive.

Interstate 35, often called the Nafta Highway (a reference to the North American Free Trade Agreement), bisects the state from north to south, running from Laredo on the Mexican border up through the middle of the country to the Canadian border. Interstate 10 runs from the Louisiana border through Houston, south of Austin through San Antonio and on to El Paso. U.S. Highway 290 connects Houston to Austin and then joins I-35 for a short stretch, cuts west through the Oak Hill area of Austin and off into the Hill Country.

Austin is literally deep in the heart of Texas. Here are some tips on getting here -- and getting around once you have arrived.

Hotels and Motels

Are you the type of traveler who just wants a comfortable, clean, inexpensive place to fling your bags and rest your body so you can spend all your time getting to know Austin? Or are you looking for a lodging that caters to your every business need? Do you prefer divided space to conduct private meetings or to give you some breathing room from the kids? Perhaps you're looking for accommodations that reflect the history of Austin and transport you back in time. Is luxury the key to your heart? Whether you're looking for a massage and a sauna, a morning jog along Town Lake, a view, shopping or nightlife, you've come to the right place!

While Austin offers plenty of accommodations for the traveler who believes the best surprise is no surprise, there also is an ever-increasing number of rooms for those searching for the unique. If you're wishing to be transported, think of us as "OZ-tin," click your heels, make a reservation and repeat, "There's no place like Texas."

The headline news of the late 1990s regarding Austin's hotel-motel industry is growth and diversity. Austin is in the midst of a building boom, adding hundreds of new rooms around the city. That's a total turnabout from a decade ago, during the real estate bust of the 1980s, when few new lodgings were built. By far, the majority of new rooms are in limited-service or extended-stay facilities. In 1998, however, the grand dame of Austin hotels, the Driskill, underwent a historically accurate restoration estimated at more than $10 million, while another classic Austin landmark, the long-vacant Stephen F. Austin Hotel, was being restored to its early splendor in preparation for the planned 1999 opening. Austin also witnessed tens of millions of dollars invested in additions and upgrades at other hotels around the city. The Driskill and the Stephen F. hotels are Austin through and through, and many of the other major hotels also have created a Texas ambiance. But travelers don't have to shell out big bucks to get a real Austin experience. Some of our locally owned, older motels are truly Austin, and a lot easier on the pocketbook.

Although the hotel industry thrives by catering to convention visitors and corporate travelers, Austin's casual tourists are also reaping the rewards, in the form of more and more lodging options and choices of amenities. Studio and suite hotels are springing up all over the area. They are often called "extended-stay" facilities because they entice long-term visitors by offering fully equipped kitchens and other amenities as well as reduced rates for longer stays. Austin is also seeing an explosion in the number of business express hotels, lower-priced, limited-service versions of some of the luxury chains that cater to the busy executive -- and to others.

While Austin may never see a return to the days when the grand hotel was the center of community activity, hotels are giving residents more and more reasons to check in. As a result, out-of-towners aren't the only ones to benefit from Austin's hotel industry. For weddings and other festivities, meetings, dining, socializing or getaway weekends, Austinite's are discovering the pleasures of our local hotels.

Whether you've come to live in Austin, or only wish you could, there are a few things you should know before making your hotel or motel reservation in Austin.

If this is your first visit to Austin, or you haven't had the pleasure of returning for awhile, allow us to orient you to the lay of the land when it comes to accommodations. The majority of Austin's full-service and luxury hotels are clustered around downtown. However, you'll also find several noteworthy full-service hotels along the Interstate 35 corridor. Another luxury lodging, The Renaissance Austin Hotel, is in Northwest Austin in the upscale Arboretum area. Northwest Austin, a beautiful area loaded with live oak trees, has seen tremendous growth in limited-service and suite hotels in the past few years, placing it among Austin's chief lodging locations today. Southeast Austin, anchored by the stately Omni Southpark Hotel, is another area that is experiencing a major boom in the number of hotels and motels.

The highest concentration of hotels and motels in Austin is found along Interstate 35. Because this north-south artery bisects Austin, I-35 hotels and motels can accommodate travelers who want to stay in North, Northeast, East, Central, South and Southeast Austin. For that reason, we've decided to include sections of I-35 to our geographical listings for those who prefer to stay close to this practical thoroughfare.

We've also tried to point out the best of the other hotels and motels scattered around the city. Although there aren't many of them, they can offer some interesting options and are certainly worth checking out. Of course, there are a number of resorts and bed and breakfast establishments in the Lake Travis area.  Our neighboring communities of Round Rock, Cedar Park and Pflugerville have yet to see construction of a full-service hotel, although they are starting to get some national chain motels and hotels. You'll find some of these properties in the listings of additional addresses we've provided for these chains and in the apartment hotels listings at the end of this chapter.

Austin is bustling, both during the week and often on the weekends, so it's advisable to make advance reservations, especially if you've got a specific hotel in mind. But don't give up the opportunity to stay at the hotel of your choice just because you're late in arriving or making a reservations. There's always a chance. Most often, however, you'll get a better rate with a reservation as many hotels charge more if they're filling up -- the old law of supply and demand. Of course, always ask about discounts or weekend packages the hotel may offer. The annual South by Southwest Music Festival (see our Annual Events and Festivals chapter), sessions of the Legislature, University of Texas football weekends and other big UT events all draw crowds to Austin so it's especially important to reserve your room for these times.

Are you arriving by air? Travelers who prefer to stay close to the airport should note that the new Austin Bergstrom International Airport is scheduled to open in 1999 in Southeast Austin. This is a tricky issue for many hotels that have borne an "Airport" tag after their name. Fortunately for these hotels, they also are so close to the heart of Austin that they will still easily attract business, especially since most are right on I-35. Also, many of them have established excellent reputations for providing quality and service. South-side hotels, however, are elated by the airport's move. They certainly will see more action and have happily geared up. And the building boom of new lodgings in that area is just getting started. Word came in 1998 that a luxury hotel is in the planning stages at the new airport. The former nerve center of Bergstrom Air Force Base, known locally as "the donut" because of its shape, could become Austin's newest full-service hotel.

The Americans with Disabilities Act led to important changes at hotels throughout the country. These days all but a few lodgings have accommodations for the physically handicapped, and Austin's new Club Hotel by DoubleTree offers rooms for the hearing impaired, which feature a special door buzzer and a blinking light in the room. However, there are a limited number of these specially designed rooms at each hotel, so it is crucial to make advance reservations.

Traveling with children, especially small ones, can bring the added concern of finding adequate babysitting so you can enjoy a night on the town or an afternoon of work or play. Several of Austin's better hotels will recommend an in-room babysitting service for you to contact, or they will make the arrangements for you. This is a great option since the hotel can vouch for the quality of service you are getting. If you choose to make babysitting arrangements yourself or need a day-care provider that will accept drop-ins, check out our chapter on Child Care.

If Fido or Fluffy have accompanied you to Austin, it's important to note that some hotels and motels do accept your pet, but many charge a nonrefundable additional fee for the animal. Others require a refundable deposit, while at some accommodations Fluffy stays free. However, this can get complicated also, as your pet may be welcome only on certain floors or in certain rooms. Even if you prefer a top-floor room with a view, for example, your pet (and you) may be relegated to a lower floor. Always check with the hotel before bringing your pet.

Smokers should also check the smoking policy when making a reservation. All but one of the hotels and motels listed below have rooms for smokers, and the policy in many of the full-service hotels is to have smoking floors -- many times the lower floors. Bring your smokes if you must, but don't always count on the room with the view.

This chapter includes extensive listings of hotels and motels in Austin. It is not, however, a comprehensive list. Included here are some of Austin's best hotels, some that give you the most for your lodging dollar and, of course, some of our favorites. The listings include a dollar-sign code that will give you an idea of the hotels' rate for a one-night stay for two people in a standard room. Taxes are not included in the rates so when you're calculating the cost of your stay be sure to add 15 percent. The rate information has been provided by the hotels themselves and is subject to change. Unless otherwise noted, all the hotels and motels listed accept major credit cards.

Bed and Breakfast Inns

For a truly unique Austin experience, spend the night, or the week, in one of our incomparable bed and breakfast establishments. Austin provides an exciting range of possibilities for visitors searching for the unique. Among Austin's many bed and breakfasts today, you'll find some listed as historic landmarks, some wonderful examples of Victorian, Texas Colonial Revival, Mediterranean and Greek Revival styles of architecture as well as some vintage and more modern structures distinctive in their own way. Four of Austin's bed and breakfast establishments have been accepted for membership in the selective organization Historic Accommodations of Texas: Woodburn House, McCallum House, Governor's Inn and Fairview.

Looking for a room with a view? Austin offers several. If you want to get away to a country retreat, Austin can answer that call. And if you're looking to escape to a bed and breakfast and yet remain close to the action of downtown, the UT campus or Austin's other hot spots, there are plenty of inns from which to choose.

For distinctive special events, such as weddings, parties and business gatherings, several of Austin's bed and breakfast establishments can fulfill all your needs by providing an original setting as well as taking care of all your music and catering arrangements. And, for that romantic interlude, some bed and breakfasts offer celebration packages that include champagne and other delights. With all these special services, it's no wonder more and more Austinites are discovering they don't have to leave town to go on vacation.

Though others tried out the bed and breakfast concept before, Austin's present-day bed and breakfast tradition got started in 1983, when the historic McCallum House opened to guests. One of the fastest-growing businesses in the country today, bed and breakfast establishments are becoming a popular alternative for guests seeking the unusual in accommodations and the warm hospitality that only a bed and breakfast can provide. And Austin is blazing that trail.

The special people who operate these lodgings are, in many cases, sharing their own homes, and their lives -- not to mention their favorite breakfast recipes. Visitors will also find bed and breakfasts created for the exclusive use of their guests. One common denominator among all our bed and breakfasts, however, is the attention to detail paid to each of these properties. Character, style, charm. There's no better reason to choose a bed and breakfast than simply the desire to stay in a one-of-a-kind lodging.

Bed is just half the equation at these inns. There's also breakfast, of course, and you'll find that Austin's proprietors have put as much effort into the morning fare as they have into their homes. From quick and delightful self-serve continental breakfasts to full-scale seated gourmet meals, the menus are designed to please. What better way to wake up in the morning than to the inviting aroma of a feast someone else has prepared for you. Don't hesitate to tell your host or hostess about any dietary constraints or preferences you may have, as most are willing to accommodate your needs. Some inns serve at specific times of the morning, others are more casual. We've noted where there is a definite seating time.

In this chapter you'll find a wide selection of the bed and breakfast establishments in Austin. Unless otherwise noted, the inns listed here accept major credit cards. The Americans with Disabilities Act does not require that these lodgings create handicapped-accessible rooms. Southard House in Central Austin does have one room that is wheelchair friendly. Smoking is permitted outdoors only at all these establishments, except Lake Travis Bed & Breakfast, where smoking is totally prohibited. Guests should be aware that check-in times and cancellation policies at bed and breakfast establishments differ from those at hotels and motels, and that some charge a cancellation fee. Please check with the individual establishment regarding the cancellation policy and check-in times when you make your reservation. And if you're planning to stay in Austin for awhile, be sure to ask about extended-stay rates.

Restaurants

If there is one rule on the Austin restaurant scene it likely is: You got a shirt, you got shoes or sandals, you got service! There is not a restaurant in town (maybe a private club or two) where a tie is required. Ties are just targets for bean dribbles and spaghetti spills. This is a city where dining is supposed to be fun, not an exercise in tailored torture.

In the last two decades, the Austin restaurant scene has ridden the same economic roller coaster as the real estate sector, falling in the doldrums in the mid-1980s only to rise from the ashes like the proverbial phoenix. In 1998, the phoenix was soaring with restaurants popping up in converted bungalows in old Austin neighborhoods, sprouting on street corners and slipping into strip shopping centers whenever a storefront became available.

Some of the new restaurants are franchises or outlets for a national chain, but many are homegrown. There has been a dramatic increase in the number of Asian restaurants in the city as immigrants from that continent have found a home here. Several long-established local restaurants have opened up second locations, often in the burgeoning northwest section of the city, but one of the coolest trends has been the emergence of young, dynamic chefs, eager to take advantage of the wide variety of fresh foods in the city and the willingness of Austin diners to try new things.

There is no such thing as "Austin cuisine." But there are certain signature cuisines that do have a connection to Texas culture. Given the fact that Texas once was part of Mexico and Mexican-American life is vibrant and very much a part of the state's cultural weave, it is only natural that Mexico's culinary influence is felt in a number of ways. There's Tex-Mex, Nuevo Tex-Mex, South Texas/Northern Mexico, New Mexican, Interior Mexican and Latin American, even South American.

Tex-Mex is probably the most prevalent and recognizable. Standard fare includes enchiladas, tacos, chalupas and refried beans. An easy way to spot Tex-Mex is whether or not the dish includes yellow cheese instead of the traditional white farmer's-style cheese found in true Mexican cuisine. That's not to put Tex-Mex down. David Garrido, chef at one of Austin's finest restaurants, Jeffrey's, and a native of Mexico, published Nuevo Tex-Mex in the spring of 1998, and the book includes an introduction by of one of Texas' top chefs, Stephan Pyles, who remembers that Tex-Mex was everyday fare when he grew up in West Texas.

Pyles notes the processed yellow-cheese phenomenon: "Over the years, processed cheese food and other shortcuts have found their way into many Tex-Mex cocinas (kitchens) and compromised the integrity of their cuisine. But in every Texas city, there are still Tex-Mex restaurants that have remained true to their time-honored cooking traditions -- traditions rooted firmly in the peasant culture of Texas."

In our listings we have included a variety of Tex-Mex and other Mexican/Latino restaurants in an effort to give readers a good cross section of that multifaceted cuisine. Just as many of us get a hankering for an old-fashioned burger once in a while, yellow-cheese Tex-Mex has its appeal and a loyal following. But readers who want to go beyond that point have a wide variety of restaurants to choose from, including several that celebrate interior Mexican culinary traditions. Those unfamiliar with that territory should not hesitate to explore. Not all Mexican food is spicy hot. The chile pepper is a staple of the Mexican kitchen, but not all peppers are hot, and many are served in rich sauces, called moles, that blend the pepper with herbs, spices, even chocolate to create multi-nuanced tastes.

Most Austinites have their favorite Mexican restaurant, particularly when it comes to weekend brunch. A popular traditional dish is migas, eggs scrambled with tortilla chips, diced chiles and tomatoes. Given the city's late nightlife, weekend breakfast is often served into mid-afternoon. During the week, breakfast tacos are the early morning order of the day, economical and easy to eat -- simply flour tortillas stuffed with combinations of eggs, chorizo (sausage), potatoes, bacon and salsa.

A menu staple in Austin and, now, beyond is fajitas. This dish had its origins in South Texas and Northern Mexico when vaqueros (Mexican cowboys) would grill skirt steak, a cheap cut taken off the ribs, over coals, perhaps marinating it first in a little beer or simply with salt and pepper. The meat was then cut up or shredded, topped with a salsa cruda, a fiery uncooked mix of tomatoes, onions, serranos or jalapenos and cilantro, and folded into a tortilla. The name comes from the Mexican word faja, meaning belt -- hence, "little belts," a play on the appearance of the meat and its location on the body of the cow.

Fajitas are now made from the traditional skirt steak or a fancier cut of flank steak, chicken, shrimp, even catfish, and customers are given a choice of corn or flour tortillas (flour tortillas predominate in Northern Mexico and South Texas cuisine, whereas corn are more familiar in the southern parts of Mexico). Sometimes frijoles borrachos, drunken beans, a Northern Mexican favorite concocted from pinto beans, salt, bacon, onions, peppers and beer, are served, but other restaurants serve their fajitas with refried black or pinto beans. (Again, pinto beans are preferred in Northern Mexico and South Texas, while black beans are favored in the southern regions of Mexico.)

Another star in the Texas culinary pantheon is, of course, barbecue. It's a subject, like religion and politics, that should be discussed carefully and with great consideration for individual beliefs -- even the spelling of barbecue promotes debate. Generally speaking, Texas barbecue is slow-cooked with indirect heat over wood coals, often mesquite, a quite delicate-looking tree with a gnarled trunk that is the bane of ranchers since it spreads like a weed and sucks up water. Brisket is the most popular cut of meat to be slow cooked, and most cooks "marinate" with a dry rub of spices and sometimes herbs.

(This is treacherous ground, because already some aficionados are saying, "No! No!")

Generally speaking, barbecue is served with pinto beans, potato salad, perhaps cole slaw, certainly sliced raw white onions (or Sweet 1015 Texas Onions), pickles, plain old white bread and barbecue sauce -- often the ingredient by which a barbecue joint is judged.

Some of the best barbecue can be found in the small towns of Texas, places like Kreuz Market in Lockhart, 208 S. Commerce Street,             (512) 398-2361      , open daily from early morning to late afternoon. Saturday is a busy day at this meat market as customers line up, pick their choice of meat, white bread or saltines, and walk to the tables with their "plates" -- thick pieces of butcher paper. As you drive through the area towns, follow your nose; sometimes even roadside stands serve up fine barbecue. Our listings include several Austin area barbecue joints, some upscale, some funky.

Almost as revered as barbecue is chicken-fried steak, a staple of the homestyle restaurants and sure to be a blue plate special at most country-cooking restaurants. The chicken fried is usually a salisbury steak, pounded thin to tenderize the meat, then covered with bread crumbs or flour mixed with salt and pepper, then deep fried, just like chicken -- hence the name. Some of Austin's upscale restaurants are treating other cuts of meat in this fashion -- Z'Tejas (see our Central listings) serves a chicken-fried rib eye.

Another hallmark of Austin cuisine is the emergence of native, homegrown foods. Texas is home to a large variety of foodstuffs, including exotic game, prime beef, fresh seafood, onions, chiles, fruits, handcrafted cheeses and special blends of rice. The Texas Department of Agriculture has an aggressive promotional program, and we have taken a look at this and locally crafted foodstuffs in our Close-up in this chapter, Texas Cuisine: Not Just a Bunch of Beef.

The multitude of cultural influences, the availability of a great variety of ingredients and the innovative abilities of local chefs has led to a wide number of restaurants featuring "fusion" cuisine. Dishes on one menu might exhibit Mexican, Asian, Italian and Mediterranean influences. But there are also a number of restaurants and cafes serving homestyle cooking. In a phrase, there is something for every taste these days in Austin.

A word or two about local customs. As noted above, casual attire is fine at most Austin restaurants, and even the most upscale allow customers to wear jeans and golf shirts, pressed jeans and clean golf shirts, of course. Smoking is a crime in Austin, as the late Timothy Leary, LSD guru, found out when he lit up in the Austin airport. A banner there reminds visitors "Austin is a clean air city." Some restaurants do have a smoking area if they have a bar or outdoor patio, but you will not be asked "Smoking or nonsmoking?" in the Austin city limits when you ask for a table. Outside the city limits, most restaurants do have designated smoking areas.

Many restaurants are open for major holidays, except Christmas. It is wise to call ahead. Most restaurants do not take reservations except for parties of six or more. All restaurants listed accept major credit cards, except where noted. Some take local checks, but that custom is fading as the city grows. More and more restaurants are staying open later to accommodate Austin's penchant for late-night noshing after the movies or theater, but most close at 10 PM during the week and 11 PM on weekends. Some stay open throughout the afternoon to serve late lunch or afternoon snacks since many Austin business people, particularly the city's large self-employed population, utilize favorite local restaurants as a conference room or an office away from their home office. We have noted restaurants that stay open beyond the usual hours.

Our restaurant listings are arranged by area of town and where a local restaurant has more than one location, refer to the first listing for menu information. For the most part, well-known national chains are not listed, although a couple of Texas restaurant groups with a major presence in Dallas or Houston have been included since they are likely not familiar to out-of-state visitors.

Nightlife

Austin's nightlife is so vibrant we had to divide it into two chapters: one, The Music Scene is a comprehensive look at the musicians and clubs that have made it possible for Austin to claim the title Live Music Capital of the World; the second, this chapter, also lists a great many music and dance venues, and it takes a look at some of the other spots where residents and visitors gather after the sun goes down.

Some places are swanky, some are funky, others reflect old Texas traditions, and still others swing to a Latin beat. Austin after dark can be a quiet glass of wine in a subdued, sophisticated setting; or a cold brew among friends at a cheery pub; perhaps a shot of tequila and a salsa dance; a glass of sherry with tapas; a beach blanket bingo movie with Coke and pizza; or an evening of satire with Austin's favorite comedy troupe.

One thing that is constant about the Austin Nightlife scene is it is evolving and growing by leaps and bounds. Every month there are new faces on the evening scene as the menu of choices grows. We have divided this chapter into Bars -- further subdivided into Sixth Street Bars and Sports Bars -- Brewpubs and Pubs; Coffeehouses; Comedy Clubs; Dance Clubs and Nightclubs; The Gay Nightlife Scene; and Movie Houses.

Austin swings every night, and most clubs and bars are open every day, except where we have noted in the listings. Where there is music, either live or electronic, there is likely to be a cover charge of a few dollars, but rarely do those covers top $10. Bars must stop serving alcohol at 2 AM by Texas law and no one younger than 21 can be served, though some clubs do admit them. Driving-while-intoxicated laws are very strict, and bar owners are also held responsible under the state's liquor licensing laws for making sure customers do not overindulge. Taxis cruise the city's major nightlife areas, and patrons who overindulge are wise to take a ride home.

Given the vast and growing number of nightspots in Austin, it is impossible to list them all. Here, we have attempted to give an overview, a wide sampling of the nightspots both residents and visitors enjoy.

Shopping

You can never be too adventuresome or too funky to enjoy shopping in Austin. Sure there are big malls with big parking lots to match, but while they provide Austin shoppers with the opportunity to buy appliances at national discount chain prices, local merchants present a dazzling array of arts, crafts, collectibles, folk art, funk, vintage redux and just plain fun items.

Our aim in this chapter is to give you a feel for what is available in Austin, a sampler tray, if you will. We give you the big, the bold, and the beautiful. First is a look at the city's shopping districts, then a brief overview of the area's major malls, followed by a guide to those temples of savvy shoppers, the outlet shops (even here Austin proves to go beyond the norm, offering several outlet shops that are aimed at target audiences). This is followed by listings, by category and area, of shops in the Austin area. It is impossible to list every noteworthy and intriguing shop in the city, but this list aims to give the reader the flavor of the shopping scene in Austin, plus tips at finding those shops that are unique to the city.

Two significant categories of shops are not included here -- bookstores appear in our chapter on The Literary Scene and music stores are featured in The Music Scene chapter.

In recent years, there has been a blossoming of retail in Austin. On the one hand, national giants have emerged from the Austin earth, giants such as Whole Foods Market and Dell Computer; on the other hand, the personal has flourished. Older boulevards and city streets in Austin have seen small, unique shops sprout like cabbages as young Austin goes in search of expression and joy.

Years ago, Texas was like many other states that forced shops to close on Sunday, but the so-called Blue Laws have been revoked, and most shops are open seven days a week. (One exception involves the state's car dealers, who by law must close on Sunday; however, this is being challenged by a national used car mega-dealer so that too may change.) Monday through Saturday most stores open around 9 AM. On Sunday specialty shops and mall stores open around noon and close at 6 PM. Closing hours vary. Smaller shops close at 6 PM, while the malls close at 9 or 10 PM Monday through Saturday. Many stores, particularly discount chains and grocery stores stay open 24 hours a day.

Given Austin's lively night scene, many bookstores and specialty food shops keep late hours. The burgeoning shopping scene along South Congress Avenue is one example of a late-night shopping district -- some of the stores stay open until midnight, particularly on weekends. During the Christmas holiday season many stores and malls extend their hours.

Attractions

First, a word of appreciation to our sponsor: Nature.

It is, after all, our greatest attraction. The bluebonnets in springtime; the sparkle of sunlight on the lakes; the limestone cliffs and green rolling hills; the crisp, rushing creeks; the fresh air; the fauna; the fault and the foliage. Austin's natural beauty and bounty attracted our first visitors, drew our first settlers and continue to entice our newest arrivals. Nature was Austin's greatest artist, perhaps an inspiration to the others who came to create some of the phenomena that give Austin its individuality. So while you're busy enjoying the production that is Austin, take a moment to acknowledge the set design.

While some of the sites below come to us courtesy of nature, we're devoted much of this chapter to giving you a tour of the landscape of invention, the visual sensations contributed by the ingenuity of Austin's own people over the past 150 years or so. Here you'll find attractions to tickle you fancy, tease your brain, touch your heart and, perhaps, stir your own imagination. Among these curiosities, historic treasures and modern marvels you'll discover a provocative portion of Austin's story.

We've pointed out some of our most interesting pieces of public art. Here, you'll receive an introduction to a few of the sculptures, statues, paintings, murals and fountains that are on view for all to appreciate. These artistic creations enhance Austin's natural beauty, and provide a window into the city itself.

Of course, Austin wouldn't be Austin without the many spots dedicated to celebrating our unique natural habitat. So for many more outdoor attractions, don't miss our chapter on Parks and Recreation, where we've introduced you to Lake Travis, Town Lake and many, many other alfresco wonderlands. If you still yearn for more things to see and do, check out our chapters on The Arts, Kidstuff, The Music Scene, Nightlife and Spectator Sports. Come to think of it, much of this book is dedicated to Austin attractions, in one form or another. Note: Because of the high concentration of Attractions in Central Austin, we've divided this section into three smaller parts to make it easier for you: Downtown, The University of Texas and Central.

Parks and Recreation

No one who has stood on the edge of a Hill Country pasture in springtime could deny the beauty of Central Texas, but even long after the riot of colorful wildflowers is gone there is much to admire in the landscape of the Hill Country. Familiarity breeds admiration and learning about the particulars makes both residents and visitors appreciate the whole.

Central Texas is not only home to some of the world's intriguing and delicate fauna and flora, but is also a land where residents enjoy a generally benign climate. This is a place where Christmas Day may be celebrated with a walk in the sun along Town Lake or a swim in Barton Springs Pool. Life, for much of the year, is lived outdoors in Austin.

Though Austin's nightlife and music scenes are touted, it is also the city's fondness for outdoor activities and an abundance of parks, greenbelts and preserves that give Austin a reputation as a liveable city. Pockets of greenery are fiercely defended against the pressures of urban sprawl. The Highland Lakes, which bring nature into the heart of the city via Town Lake, serve as a natural lifeline between the Hill Country and the city dweller.

The city also rises to the modern challenge to provide its citizens with something to do on the weekends other than mow the lawn. There are 5K runs, 10K runs, marathons, bicycle races, kite-flying contests and rugby games. There are rocks to be climbed and Frisbees to be thrown.

This chapter offers a look at area parks and gives an overview of the many recreational activities popular in Central Texas. It is divided into three general sections: Parks, Recreation and Watersports. The parks section focuses on state, lake, county and city parks. The Recreation section is divided into activities, and the Watersports section offers tips on how to enjoy Austin's lakes, rivers and swimming facilities.

 

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