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While it doesn’t take a genius to figure out that Mexico is the best country in the world, it sometimes seems that would-be travelers need reminding. Why else would it be referred to as the ultimate escape—the final destination by so many in song, stage, and screen? Who can forget such illustrious figures as The Grateful Dead, The Beatles, Sean Connery, and Bill Weld longing for the days when they too could roam glinting Pacific beaches, climb cobblestone streets in highland towns, and explore twisting desert canyons. Where, other than Mexico, could they ever hope to find unfrequented amber-based societies, ride rented horses through peyote bush, chauffeur inebriated forest-dwellers over narrow gorges, and befriend enigmatic mechanic Vikings? The sights are often sought after; the experiences are more often accidental. In the end, the freedom granted by a place where the sun will soothe, the food will fill, and the salsa will sway, is what satisfies those drawn by countless other reasons to discover Mexico.
MEXICO FACTS & FIGURES
Capital: Mexico City
Population: 98,552,776
Religion: 89% Roman Catholic (89%)
GDP per capita: US$7,700
Independence Day: Sept. 16, 1810
Ethnic Groups: Mestizo 60%, American Indian 30%, Caucasian 6%
BAILA!
Mexico has no end of attractions. From climbing age-old Maya temples or haggling for silver trinkets in colonial open-air markets, to diving through coral reefs or grooving to merengue with margarita in hand, each region has its own cultural allure and culinary appeal. Whether you want crashing rollers or lapping waves; miles of soft, empty sand or hordes of beach towels; fiery sunrises or glowing sunsets; Mexico offers every desired beach experience. For the intrepid adventurers, snorkeling, fishing, diving, and kayaking are readily available along Baja, the southern Pacific coast, Veracruz, and the eastern Yucatán. Those searching for solitude and beauty often migrate to beaches such as Zihuatanejo and Todos Santos; but, if a trip to Mexico is just an excuse to party, stick to the areas where prices are expressed in dollars and all beachside discos are packed by scantily-clad foreigners roused by 2-for-1 Coronas.
In unsubtle Conquest symbolism, the Spanish built many Mexican cities on top of Mesoamerican ceremonial centers. Today, it is impossible to miss the Aztec, Maya, Toltec, Olmec, Zapotec, and Mixtec ruins that are scattered throughout the cities and the countryside. Right outside of Mexico City, the holy pyramids of Teotihuacán are an awe-inspiring example of the power of pre-Conquest indigenous civilization. Over the eastern mountains lie some of the most ancient of all Mesoamerican cities, those of the Olmec. Across the Gulf in the Yucatán, La Ruta Puuc meanders over kilometer after kilometer of palaces and temples and ballcourts of the Maya—their giant, stone constructions still maintain the carvings and inscriptions of past millennia. Tulum, one of the most beautiful sites in all of Mexico, includes a vista of glowing waves and pristine beaches at the foot of a once-grand port called the “City of the Dawn”—just check out the cover of the book.
Perhaps the most noticeable of Mexico’s attractions is its throbbing city life. The sprawling, thriving metropolis of Mexico City harbors the most invigorating, iconoclastic nightlife around. Entertainment varies from concerts and mariachi performances in the parks, to pulsating bass, flowing tequila, and flashing lights of the world’s most renowned discotecas. Almost all of the cities in Mexico have myriad museums spilling over with intriguing artifacts, modern art and indigenous representations. Urban life in Mexico is not simply contemporary living; it is the manifestation of pre-Hispanic tradition blending with imposed Spanish colonial heritage. The results are as varied as the hedonism of discotecas and the intricacy of ballet folklórico. Artistry is one of the most striking legacies and tangible forces in Mexican culture. Indígena crafts and textiles, the silver and amber trades of various pueblos, and the murals and paintings of politically oriented artists, are all visual representations of life in Mexico. Museums in Mexico City, Guadalajara, and Guanajuato, display the stunning work of muralists and artists such as Diego Rivera, Frida Kahlo, and José Clemente Orozco. Indígena artistry is still a strong force in Mexico, where, in many towns, clothing and jewelry reflect ancient design and tradition.
Mexico is a country of dramatic contrasts; tropical jungles in the south give way to snowcapped mountains in the west, deserts and volcanic mountains contrast sharply with crystal white beaches. Few other countries have so wide a variety of landscapes and climates within such short distances of one another.
The three main climatic zones are determined by distance above sea level; the hot lands go from sea level up to 800m (2,625ft), the temperate lands up to 1,700m (5,577ft), while anything higher than this is referred to as the cold lands.
Believed to have been inhabited since 50,000BC, this country's rich and diverse history is reflected in its ancient pyramids and shrines. Apart from visiting its historical sites, beaches and cities, Mexico's excellent weather allows the visitor to practise sports such as sailing, surfing and skiing for most of the year.
The official language is Spanish, with English being spoken only in the larger centres. In the rural areas as many as 50 Indian languages are spoken by the Indian population. Mexicans are known for their carefree attitude to life, and their good sense of humour. They are generally warm and friendly, and tend to treat the stranger in their midst with unusual warmth.
Mexico City
Founded by the Spaniards in 1521 on the site of the ancient Aztec capital, Tenochtitlán, Mexico City is the second largest population centre in the world. More than 25% of the country's 90 million inhabitants live in the Mexico City metropolitan area. At an altitude of 2,207m, the city is one of the highest in the world. This, together with the city's severe pollution problem might cause respiratory problems for some visitors. Situated in central Mexico, the city experiences temperate weather for most of the year.
Things to Do
Taking in mind its ancient history, it is not surprising that Mexico City has more than 50 prominent museums. Although they are all excellent, the National Museum of Anthropology and the Historic District should not be missed. The city offers plenty of opportunities to shop, and its nightlife is positively vibrant. There are several attractions such as the Pyramids of Teotihuacán just outside the city.
Places to Visit
The Palacio National de Mexico is situated on the eastern side of the Zócala, the largest central square in Mexico City. Built in 1562 as a palace for royal Spanish viceroys, it houses a museum dedicated to president Benito Juárez, as well as the Bell of Dolores, which, in 1810, rung to unite the Mexican people in their fight for independence. Frescoes painted by Diego Rivera cover the northern and western interior walls.
On the northern side of the square lies the Catedral Metropolitana, the largest cathedral in Latin America. Construction on it was started in 1544 and it took 250 years to complete. The interior is covered in glorious murals depicting religious scenes. Between these two buildings lie the remains of the Templo Mayor. The temple was dedicated to the hummingbird god of the Aztecs, Huitzilopochtli, and was the scene of as many as 20,000 human sacrifices each year. The ruins now house the Museo del Templo Mayor, with an extensive exhibition covering the history of the Aztec civilisation.
Alameda Central is situated in downtown Mexico City. It is the largest central park in the city and was developed in the late 16th century. Wandering through it, you can see beautiful bronze statues, fountains, a large collection of indigenous flora and a monument dedicated to president Benito Juárez. The Palacio de Bellas Artes, situated in the northeast corner of the park, was founded as a theatre in 1904. After its foundations had sunk 5m into the soil it was changed into a depository for works by the most famous 19th and 20thcentury Mexican artists. On the west side of the city the 810 hectare Bosque De Chapultepec is the site where the Aztecs first settled. Apart from its museums, the park has a number of hiking trails and modern sports facilities. Mexico's most famous museum, the Museo Nacional de Antropología is situated in the park. Opened in 1964, it is constructed of wood, volcanic rock and marble. Housed in its 23 halls is one of the foremost collections of PreColumbian art in the world. Also in the park, the Castillo de Chapultepec stands on a hill overlooking the city. Built in the 18th century, it has played an important role in Mexican history, and is now home to the National Museum of History.
North of downtown Mexico City lies La Basílica De Guadalupe, revered as the holiest place in Mexico. It was built on the spot where the image of the Virgin Mary appeared to a young boy and the local bishop in 1531. The mantle on which the image appeared can still be seen. In Coyoacaán, a suburb southwest of the centre, there are two very interesting museums. The Museo y Casa de Leon Trotsky is situated in the home of the Russian revolutionary Leon Trotsky and is dedicated to his life and work. The Museo Frida Kahlo houses works by the namesake, and by many other famous Mexican artists.
Mexico City Outskirts
About 48km northeast of Mexico City lie the Pyramids of Teotihuacán, probably the most visited archaeological site in the country. Teotihuacán, meaning 'Place Where Gods Were Born', was once a thriving city with as many as 125,000 citizens, but was abandoned in AD700. Climbing the Pyramid of the Sun and the Pyramid of the Moon is a gruelling exercise, but provides the best way to appreciate the grandeur of these massive ruins.
The Gulf Coast
The Gulf Coast is largely untouched by the bustling activity that characterises central Mexico. With its rustic atmosphere it is an ideal place to catch some sun and just relax. This region is a haven for the budget conscious traveller as it is by far the most economical in the country. Offering a mixture of quaint little towns, magnificent beaches and modern cities, it is a must on any traveller's itinerary.
Things to Do
Birthplace of the Mexican civilisation, the Gulf region has a large number of archaeological sites worth visiting. The vast cloudforest near Ciudad Victoria, and Lake Catamalo near Veracruz offer several hiking trails and excursions for the outdoor enthusiast.
Places of Interest
Situated near the northern point of Mexico's Gulf Coast, Ciudad Victoria has a population of approximately 208,000 people. The city was named after the country's first president, Guadalupe Victoria. Towering in front of the Government Palace is a statue of the goddess Izcuinan Tlazolteotl (goddess of base human desires) which is reported to be almost 1,000 years old. Just west of the town lies El Cielo Biosphere Reserve, one of only three cloudforests in the world. This reserve has a small number of cabins for ecominded travellers.
Tuxpan, 300km north of Veracruz, is a little tropical paradise noted for its seafood and magnificent beaches. The Museo Regional de Antropología e Historia exhibits a rather jumbled but interesting collection of Huastec pottery, jewellery and art. The Casa de la Amistad MéxicoCuba was originally built to celebrate the good relations between the two countries but, as any visitor can see, it is now dedicated to the glorification of Fidel Castro.
About 70km southeast of Tuxpan lies Papantla, with a population of approximately 125,000. Papantla is the onetime vanilla capital of the world. Near the centre of the town, the Catedral Señora de la Ascunción has a 50m by 5m stone mural by Theodoro Cano depicting the folklore of the ancient Totonac civilisation. Every year during the Festival of Corpus Christi an ancient rainsummoning ceremony is held where five men climb up a 20m pole in the courtyard of the cathedral, and then swing down. Situated just outside the town, the El Tajín ruins are a major attraction. The religious and political centre of the Totonac civilisation, this site has a number of majestic buildings. Probably the most impressive of these is the Pyramid of Niches, a stone construction with 365 alcoves on all four sides.
Travelling west of Papantla one reaches Jalapa, which has a population of approximately 288,000, and is the capital of the state of Veracruz. Attractions include the Museo de Antopología de Jalapa, the second largest museum in the country with exhibits covering the history of Mexico from the Olmec period to the present. For those interested in buying local Mexican art, the Casa de Artesanías has a wide selection of superb pieces at very reasonable prices.
Veracruz, 110km southeast of Jalapa, is the oldest and largest port in Mexico. Famous for its carefree and lively atmosphere, this city has several worthwhile attractions. The Castillo de San Juan de Ullua was built in 1582 to protect the city against an invading fleet. Later it became the most infamous jail in the country, and visitors can still view some of the torture instruments used. About 50km north of the city lie the Zempoala ruins. Although not as big as the ruins at El Tajín, the 15thcentury Temple of the Little Faces is worth making a detour for.
Northern Mexico
A large expanse of arid land that stretches from the Gulf of California to the Gulf of Mexico, this region's geography varies considerably. Cupped between two mountain ranges, the Sierra Madre Oriental (east coast) and the Sierra Madre Occidental (west coast) lies a high plain on which most of the region's cities are situated. Northern Mexico's economy is largely dependent on cattle ranching, mining, timber, tourism, and the US assembly plants which are based there. Mild to warm temperatures are experienced throughout the year.
Things to Do
Although not primarily orientated towards the tourism industry, this region still offers a large number of attractions. There are several fascinating historical sites, museums and recreational centres in northern Mexico.
Places of Interest
Capital of the state of Sonora, Hermosillo is the agricultural centre of the area and has a population of approximately 500,000. Attractions here include the Museo Regional de Historia at the University of Sonora, which houses a collection of ancient Indian artefacts and exhibits on the colonial history of the region. Exhibits at the Casa de Cultura bring across the chilling reality of the Mexican Revolution during which almost 13% of the country's population died. About 3km outside the city, the Ecological Center of Sonora is a 1,000 hectare nature reserve dedicated to the preservation of indigenous plants and wildlife.
Chihuahua, with a population of close to 531,000 people, is the capital of Mexico's largest and richest state, also called Chihuahua. The Museum of the Revolution is located in the house of Pancho Villa, and exhibits his gun collection, numerous personal effects and the car in which he was shot. At the Museo Regional de Chihuahua visitors can view a permanent collection of early 20thcentury art nouveau furniture, as well as an exhibit of preHispanic artefacts from the nearby Paquimé ruins. The exact spot on which Miguel Hidalgo, the 'Father of the Mexican Revolution' was executed is marked with a brass plaque at the Palacio del Gobierno.
Situated at an altitude of 2,560m (8,400ft) in the Sierra Madres, Creel is fast becoming one of Mexico's most popular mountain retreats. Creel's population numbers about 6,000, but more than 40,000 Tarahumara, members of a local Indian tribe, live in the mountain ranges that surround the town. Excursions here consist mainly of hiking trips, horseback rides and guided tours to any of the area's attractions. There are several hot springs, canyons, waterfalls, a lake, caves and a 400yearold mission nearby.
Los Mochis has a population of approximately 350,000, and is the centre of a fertile and wealthy agricultural area. Among its attractions is the Sinaloa Park, an outdoor museum with a few hundred species of plant and wildlife. The Museo Regional del Valle del Fuerte is dedicated to the history of Northern America, and houses a collection of documents, photographs and guns.
The Colonial Silver City, Zacatecas was founded long before the Spanish arrived in 1546, and has a presentday population of approximately 108,000 people. The silver mined there during the 16th and 17th centuries has helped to make Zacatecas the sophisticated, cosmopolitan city it is today. Attractions here include the cathedral with its beautifully carved stone facade and belltower. The Museo Pedro Coronel has exhibits on countries varying from India to Egypt, a large collection of preHispanic artefacts and a collection of paintings by European masters such as Picasso, Dalí and Miré. The Rafael Coronel Museum has more than 4,500 antique and contemporary masks from all over Mexico.
Monterrey, with a population of approximately 3.5 million, is Mexico's third largest city and its industrial centre. The city is famous for the beer and lead crystal it produces. Tours of the Cuauthémoc Brewery are available. Lead crystal can be bought from the Kristaluxus factory. For an excellent view of the city, visit El Obispado, an 18thcentury bishop's palace poised on a hill in the western section of the city.
Yucatán Peninsula
Inhabited since 1500BC, the Yucatán Peninsula has always striven to be independent from Mexico and the United States. After it joined the Mexican union in 1823, the peninsula was divided into three states; Campeche, Yucatán and Quintana Roo. The region has a large population of Maya, of which more than 350,000 still speak Mayan. Although Spanish and Mayan are predominantly spoken, English is understood in most of the metropolitan areas. Covering an area of about 220,000km² (136,700 miles²), the peninsula experiences warm temperatures and a high rainfall for most of the year.
Things to Do
The Yucatán Peninsula's drive to maintain its own way of life has made it possible for travellers to study the unique Mayan culture in the many small towns where it is still flourishing. The region also has a large number of ancient ruins, nature reserves and beaches. A variety of water sports are practised along the coast.
Places of Interest
The beautiful coastal city of Campeche (population 172,000) is the capital of the state of Campeche, and was founded in 1517. Attractions here include the Museo Regional de Campeche which houses exhibitions ranging from ancient Mayan artefacts to a model of the archaeological site at Becán. The Museo de Arte de Campeche is situated in an ancient temple and has a collection of paintings by contemporary Mexican artists. The 18th-century fort Fuerte San Miguel, just south of the city centre, offers an excellent view of the city.
With sections of it dating back to 600BC, Uxmal is reported to be the most graceful Mayan ruin in all of Mexico. Upon entering the ruins you will see the Temple of the Sorcerer, a 40mhigh pyramid which, rumour has it, was built overnight by a dwarf sorcerer that had hatched from an egg. Slightly west of it lies the Nunnery, so called because of its resemblance to a Spanish monastery. It is believed to have been a military academy for royal children. The largest and most intricate construction in the ruins is called the Governor's Palace. Over 100m (328ft) long, it is thought to have had astrological significance as the main entrance is perfectly aligned with Venus.
Mérida, the state capital of Yucatán, is the largest city on the Yucatán Peninsula and has a population of approximately 1,500,000 people. Attractions here include the Cathedral, a fortresslike building that dates back to 1561. It houses the 'Christ of Blisters', the second largest crucifix in the world. The Museum of Anthropology is dedicated to the history of the region and has fascinating (and sometimes gruesome) exhibits on the ancient Mayan civilisation. At the Museo de Arte Popular, visitors can view a collection of Mayan art, musical instruments, costumes and masks.
Following in the footsteps of Acapulco and Puerto Vallarta, Cancún (population 300,000) has become one the most popular resort cities in Mexico. Apart from visiting the main beach, Playa Tortuga, travellers can go on an excursion to the nearby Isla Mujeres. Here, the wellknown El Garrafón National Underwater Park offers excellent snorkelling and scuba diving conditions. Also situated along the coast, the Mayan ruins at Tulum have a unique location, high up on a clifftop overlooking the Caribbean. Tulum dates back to the 13th century and is the only Mayan city found on the coast.
The Chichén Itza ruins near Pisté are even more impressive than those at Uxmal, and are a must on any traveller's itinerary. The largest building at the ruin is El Castillo, also known as the Pyramid of Kukulkán. The construction of this pyramid bears testimony to the mathematical skills of the ancient Maya, and aspects of its architectural symbolise the Mayan calendar precisely. The Sacred Senote is a large well where victims were ceremonially drowned as a sacrifice to the rain god, Chaac. It is believed that the tall circular building nearby was used to study the stars, and it is accordingly called the Observatory.
Isla Cozumel, just 18km (11 miles) east of the northern Yucatán coast, is Mexico's largest Caribbean island. Except for its beaches and wonderful weather, attractions here include the Chankanaab National Park which is famous for its wide variety of sea life. The Museo de la Isla de Cozumel is dedicated to the history and preservation of the island's endangered species.
Central Mexico
The landscape of the central Mexican highlands is diverse, comprising lakes, mountains, large forests and plains. The most densely populated region in the country, it experiences cool, temperate weather for most of the year. The southern part of this region is dominated by dormant snowcapped volcanoes which form part of a range that divides northern and southern Mexico.
Things to Do
Being the most densely populated, this region offers numerous attractions. Its ancient history is reflected in the large number of archaeological sites, historic buildings and museums in the area. Because of the mild weather and diverse geography, outdoor enthusiasts will find plenty to keep them amused.
Places of Interest
Guadalajara, also known as the City of Roses, is Mexico's second largest city and has a population of 4.5 million. Plaza de Armas is one of the four plazas in downtown Guadalajara. Here you will find the Palacio del Gobierno, a palace built in 1774 which features a number of spectacular murals by famous Mexican artists. Next to the palace is a cathedral, the towers of which are 60m high and offer an unsurpassed view of the city.
East of the Plaza de Armas lies the Regional Museum of Guadelajara. Built in 1701 this museum houses displays ranging from a meteorite found in the 18th century, to an extensive collection of paintings by 17th and 18thcentury artists. Also in the area, the Mercado Libertad is said to be the largest covered market in Latin America. The variety of goods on offer is overwhelming and you can barter to your heart's content.
Aguascalientes, 250km northeast of Guadelajarta, is famous for its hot water springs and the catacombs found under the town. The Government Palace (Plaza de la Patria), with its 111 rose coloured stone pillars, and murals by Ualdo Ibarra, is an architectural feat worth viewing. The José Guadalupe Posada Museum (Plaza Encino) is a must for anyone interested in engraving, and features the works of Antonio Arroyo. About 1km outside the town, the Ojo Caliente hot springs are renowned for their healing powers.
San Luis Potosí is situated northeast of Guadalajarta, and has a population of approximately 800,000. Founded in 1583, it became an important city after silver and gold were discovered there. While away your time in the Jardin Hidalgo, the central city square, or visit any of the city's numerous museums. The Museo Regional Potosino was founded in 1590 and exhibits an excellent collection of preColumbian artefacts. The National Mask Museum has a collection of regional dance masks from all over Mexico. It is one of only two collections of its kind in the country.
Guanujuato, 208km southwest of San Luis Potosí, is one of the loveliest cities in Mexico. A wealthy city, its mines produced one third of the world's silver supply from the 16th to the 18th centuries. Among its many attractions is the Iconograph Museum of Don Quijote with more than 600 pieces relating to Don Quijote and Miguel Cervantes. Among these pieces are interpretations of the character by artists like Salvador Dalí and Picasso. The Museo Del Pueblo De Guanajautu has a precious collection of more than 1,000 civil and religious pieces dating from the colonial era. In a somewhat more macabre mood, the Mummy Museum displays bodies exhumed between 1865 and 1975, in glass caskets and showcases.
About 120km west of Guanujuato lies San Miguel de Allende, with a population of approximately 60,000. Founded in 1542, this lovely town has been declared a national monument. Sights include La Parroquia, a gothic parish church which features an ornamental facade carved from pink stone. The Museo de la Casa de Allende is a museum situated at the birthplace of the famous Mexican independence leader, Ignacio Allende. The Toboada hot springs, situated just outside the town, provide a wonderful spot to relax.
Querétaro, 100km southeast of San Miguel de Allende, is the site of several historic events, including the execution of Emperor Maximilian and beginning of the Mexican revolution. The town's regional museum houses a comprehensive collection of classical paintings by 18thcentury Mexican and European artisans. The Museo de Arte is situated in a magnificent 18thcentury convent and houses an impressive number of 16th and 17thcentury Mexican and European paintings.
The Pacific Coast
Mexico's Pacific Coast measures approximately 7,000km (4,350 miles). Until the beginning of the 20th century, only a few scattered fishing villages and towns existed along this coastline, but the construction of roads changed this. Small settlements such as Acapulco and Puerto Vallarta soon became world famous destination spots. The Mexican government has realised the economic value of these tourist sites, and in recent years has taken a hand in the development of the area through FONATUR, a government trust. Dependent mostly on tourism and the fishing industry, this region experiences mild temperatures the whole year through.
Things to Do
The coastline offers a range of attractions for travellers. Besides lounging on the beach, you can practise some of the water sports the region is famous for. Sailing, scuba diving and deep sea fishing for marlin are very popular pastimes. The region also has a number of excellent museums.
Places of Interest
Mazatlán, near the northern end of the Pacific Coast, has a population of approximately 500,000, and is best known for its sports fishing and holiday resorts. Although the town's greatest appeal lies in its beaches, it does have other attractions as well. The Acuario Mazatlán Aquarium is the largest in the country, and has more than 250 species of fish on show. Every year in February Mazatlán celebrates its famous Mardi Gras. For seven days the festivities build up, until the last day when the whole town seems to be filled with dancing, singing people.
South of Mazatlán, Puerto Vallarta is populated by about 250,000 people. The city reportedly became famous when Richard Burton and Elizabeth Taylor bought a house there while filming Night of the Iguana nearby. Since then it has grown into one of the best known resorts in the world. Attractions include Playa de Olas Atlas, the city's most beautiful beach where visitors can go parasailing or scuba diving. A two hour boat trip down the coast gets you to Playa Yelapa, a picturesque little town where you can go hiking and swimming, and even have your photo taken with an iguana.
About 250km south of Puerto Vallarta lies San Blas, with a population of approximately 10,000 people. This sleepy little village is a birdwatcher's paradise, as there are large numbers of rare and endangered birds in the surrounding tropical forest and swamps. There are some superb hiking trails that lead to nearby birdwatching spots. San Blas is also known for the excellent surfing conditions at its main beach, Playa Las Islitas.
Manzanillo, with a population of approximately 90,000, is Mexico's principal Pacific port. Although more a working port than a holiday resort, this city has several worthwhile attractions. Las Hadas (The Fairies) is a sparkling white Arabesque holiday complex and recreation centre just outside the town. Since the film 10 was shot there, the complex has become internationally known. Sports fishing for marlin and sailfish takes place throughout the year.
Moving further south you get to Acapulco, the onetime 'Pearl of the Pacific'. Slightly tarnished now, it is still a vibrant and exciting city, and approximately 600,000 people have made it their home. Attractions include the Fort San Diego, a 17thcentury fort that houses the Museo Histórico de Acapulco. This museum exhibits relics from Acapulco's sea trading past as well as a number of excellent preColumbian artefacts. The Papagayo Park, situated between the Playos Hornos and Hornitos beaches, has a small amusement park, an aviary, and facilities for gocart racing, boating and skating. During a glassbottom boat trip to nearby Roqueta Island you can see the sunken Virgin of Guadalupe statue and a multitude of colourful tropical fish. No visit to Acapulco would be complete without seeing the cliff divers of La Quebrada. Athletic young men dive from a 40m cliff into the sea, their majestic swallow dives perfectly timed so as to coincide with the swell of the waves in the narrow cove. Night dives are lit by flares.
Puerto Escondido is situated about 370km southeast of Acapulco. With a population of approximately 50,000, it has grown from a small fishing town to one of the most popular surfing spots in Mexico. Apart from visiting its superb main beach Playa Zikatela, you can travel around the coast on a fishing tour, or visit the local turtle nesting grounds. These outings can be arranged through the local tourist office. About 80km southwest of Puerto Escondido lies Puerto Angel, a small fishing village where travellers just relax and enjoy the splendid weather and cuisine.
Near the southern end of the Pacific Coast, Bahías de Huatulco consists of nine bays that are now being developed by FONATUR, the government's tourism fund. With its crystal clear water, clean air and mild climate this is the ideal spot to partake in water sports or just lie in the sun.
Southern Mexico
Stretching from near the capital to where the great horn of Mexico juts into the Mexican Gulf, this region is bordered by the Pacific Ocean in the south, the Caribbean in the east and Guatemala and Belize in the southeast. Southern Mexico is a green, fertile region covered by tropical forests, lakes, waterfalls and rivers. A large number of ancient ruins can be found scattered throughout the area. Warm temperatures and a high rainfall are experienced for most of year.
Things to Do
Visit any of the region's numerous archaeological sites or museums. Rivers and lakes in the area provide plenty of opportunities for fishing and other water sports. There are also several trails for hikers.
Places of Interest
Puebla, with a population of approximately 1,250,000, was founded in 1531 and is Mexico's fourth largest city. It is famous for its churches, which number more than 100. The Cathedral of the Immaculate Conception dates back to 1562, and is the tallest in Mexico, offering an excellent view of the city from its 72m (236ft) bell tower. Housed in the old Archbishop's Palace, the Biblioteca Palafoxiana is the oldest library in the Americas. It contains more than 43,000 volumes, some of which date back to 1493. The Museo Amparo is dedicated to the history of Mesoamerican art, and has a several fascinating exhibits on this subject.
Cholula is situated about 10km (6 miles) west of Puebla, and is home to approximately 70,000 people. It is reported to be the oldest site of human habitation in the country. Among its attractions is the Great Tepanapa Pyramid, the largest (although not highest) pyramid in the world. Guided tours of the pyramid are available. For a look at how the religious symbols of the Spanish and local Indians have intermingled over the centuries, visit the Santa María Tonantzintla and San Francisco Acatepec churches that lie 6km (4 miles) southeast of the town.
With an average temperature of 20°C the whole year through, Cuernavaca (population 280,000) is deservedly called the 'City of Eternal Spring'. Attractions here include the Museo de Cuauhnahuac, which is housed in the former home of Hernán Cortéz. The museum houses exhibits ranging from ancient Indian artefacts to colonial furnishings and clothes. The Museo Casa Robert Brady has a collection of more than 1,300 paintings, included in which are works by renowned artists such as Frida Kahlo and Rufino Tamayo. In the northeastern section of the city, the ancient Aztec Pyramid of Teopanzolco is set in the middle of a public park.
Taxco, with a population of approximately 150,000, lies about 80km (50 miles) south of Cuernavaca and is famous for its silver industry. Among this city's numerous sights is the Santa Prisca y San Sebastián Church, an architectural marvel with two intricately decorated steeples and a rose coloured stone fascade. Inside, there are a number of paintings by Miguel Cabrera. The Museo de Taxco Guillermo Spratling has a large collection of preColumbian artwork donated to the museum by William Spratling, an American who revitalised the city's silver industry in the 1930s. Those interested in buying quality silver products should visit Los Castillos, the workshop of the Castillo family, 8km (5 miles) south of the city.
Situated in a valley high in the Sierra Madre, Oaxaca (population 800,000) has become a very popular holiday destination in recent years. Starting out from Plaza Principal, the city centre, you get to the Regional Museum of Oaxaca which has exhibits covering the history and culture of all the major historical Indian groups. The Rufino Tamayo Museum of PreHispanic Art takes pride in the fact that all the artefacts displayed here were chosen for their grace and beauty. The Museo de Arte Contemporáno de Oaxaca exhibits everchanging collections of paintings by contemporary Mexican artists.
San Christóbal de las Casas has a population of approximately 125,000 people, and is famous for the fact that the local Indian inhabitants still adhere to their traditional way of life. Ironically, this reputation has led to such an influx of visitors that these traditions are now under strain. Among the city's attractions is NaBolom, the home of anthropologists Frans and Trudy Blom that also functions as a guesthouse and a museum dedicated to the local Indian tribes. The Museo de Ambar is the only museum in the country devoted to amber. It houses more than 250 amber sculptures and, in true Jurassic Park tradition, a collection of insects and fossils trapped in amber.
Baja California
Separated from mainland Mexico about 20 million years ago, Baja California stretches 1,300km (808 miles) from Tijuana in the north to Los Cabos in the south. Geographically this peninsula is a microcosm of the mainland, ranging from desert in the west to tropical green valleys in the north and south. Two mountain ranges run down its length, the Sierra San Pedro Martír in the north and the Sierra de la Giganta in the south. The breathtaking scenery together with the warm, temperate climate make this region one of the most popular holiday spots in the Americas.
Things to Do
Most travellers visit Baja California for its excellent beaches and water sports. The region has a number of museums, historical sites and natural wonders worth seeing.
Places of Interest
Only about 30 minutes drive from San Diego, Tijuana (population 1,000,000) is statistically the fastest growing city in the world. Attractions here include the Museo de Cara, a wax museum where the Ayatollah Khomeini stands peacefully next to Tom Cruise. For those who like shopping, the Avenida Revolución is heaven; it claims to be the most visited street in the world. After a hectic day, the Morelos State Park is the perfect place to relax.
Mexicali, with a population of approximately 1,000,000, is the capital of the northern section of Baja California, Baja California Norte. Although directed more towards industry than tourism, the city does have some attractions. On the southwestern side of the city lies a park containing a zoo, forest and lake. The park also has carousels, bumper cars, a pool, paddleboats and a science museum with exhibits on geology and indigenous cultures. Bullfights are held at the Plaza de Toros Calafia during autumn.
La Paz is capital of the southern section of the region Baja California Sur. La Paz has a population of approximately 180,000, and is the ideal spot for travellers who want peace and quiet. Among the sights here is the Anthropology Museum with exhibits on the local preHispanic cave paintings and Indian tribes. From January to March visitors can go whalewatching near Puerto López Mateos. La Paz has a busy port, and boasts more than 850 species of fish in the surrounding waters, thus it is famous for its sports fishing.
Visas & Passports
A brief account of the complex Mexican passport and visa regulations will not suffice and travellers are advised to check with the appropriate consulate for requirements which may specifically apply to them. The following information is thus simply a guideline:
All visitors entering Mexico must provide proof of citizenship in the form of a valid passport, an original birth certificate or naturalisation papers. Passports must be valid for at least six months after date of entry.
Noncompliance with visa regulations will result in a fine and transportation to the traveller's country of origin (at their own expense). Travellers who require visas should apply in their country of residence as it may prove difficult to get them elsewhere.
All visitors to Mexico must carry a tourist card, available only to people travelling to the country on holiday, for health reasons, or to engage in sporting, scientific or artistic activities (nonlucrative). This card is valid for a single entry and is issued free of charge, either on board the plane, or at the point of entry in Mexico. The card should be carried at all times and guarded carefully, and must be presented and stamped when leaving the country. Cards are valid for 90 days, but a special 180day multipleentry card can be requested.
Customs
The following goods are permitted dutyfree for people leaving the country:
US citizens:
USD 400.00 worth of goods
Up to USD 1,000.00 (more than that is subject to 10% tax)
100 cigars
200 cigarettes
1 litre of alcohol (if you are older than 21)
Gifts up to USD 100.00 may be mailed out of the country
Canadian citizens:
CAD 300.00 worth of goods
200 cigarettes
50 cigars
400 g tobacco
1.14 litres of alcohol (if you are over the legal age)
355 ml beer
All the abovementioned goods are included in the CAD 300.00.
EU citizens:
200 cigarettes or 100 cigarillos or 50 cigars or 250 g tobacco
2 litres of wine
1 litre of alcohol (+22% alcohol)
2 litres of alcohol (-22% alcohol)
50 g perfume
250 ml of toilet water
Money
The Mexican unit of currency is the Peso (MXP). In January 1993, Mexico introduced its new currency, the Nuevo Pueso (New Peso), which is divided into 100 cents. Notes are issued in denominations of MXP500, 200, 50, 20 and 10. Coins are issued in
Travellers cheques or letters of credit which are issued by wellknown banks or travel agents in US dollars are readily negotiable in banks and hotels. Some restaurants and shops in the main tourist areas accept traveller's cheques in lieu of cash. Sterling traveller's cheques are not readily negotiable, except at head offices of banks in the capital.
Major credit cards such as Visa, MasterCard and American Express are accepted at most hotels, shops and restaurants, and can also be used to withdraw cash from ATMs.
Valueadded tax of 10% is included in all marked prices. Service charges are usually not included in the bill, and it is customary to tip between 10% and 15%.
Business Hours
Banks
Monday to Friday, 09:00 to 13:30.
Shops
Monday to Saturday, 09:00 to 20:00. Shops in resort towns and cities stay open later.
Post Offices
Monday to Friday, 08:00 to 18:00.
Bars, Pubs and Restaurants
Pubs and restaurants stay open until late, especially over weekends.
Peak Seasons
The best time to visit Mexico is during the winter, from November to May, when temperatures are milder. After the summer rains the countryside is stunningly green. Hotels usually experience their peak season from the middle of December until midApril, and during this period prices can rise considerably. In general, the sea is comfortably warm for swimming, even in winter.
Post & Telecommunications
The postal service in Mexico is slow but reliable. Airmail to the Unites States usually reaches its destination in about a week, but can also take a month or more to do so. As airmail to Europe is usually routed through US surface mail, it can take even longer to reach its destination. Within Mexico City, there is an immediate delivery service, which usually takes two or three days. When sending important or valuable items, use registered mail, or, in the case of documents, make duplicates. When addressing letters, it is wise to use the Spanish abbreviations or names for countries. Write Por Avión on all postcards and letters, as surface mail is notoriously slow.
You can have letters sent to you in Mexico through a letterholding service, or Lista de Correos. Letters and packages will be held here for a maximum of 15 days. Items held are placed on an alphabetised list in the holding office. When sending mail to one of these offices, underline the name under which the item should be filed alphabetically. Keep these names as simple as possible, and preferably use only the first and last names.
Patience is the key word where telephones are concerned. It is cheaper to phone from one of the special long distance telephone booths than from a hotel. LADATEL phones use both coins and telephone cards. It is advisable to use the cards, as coins in the required denominations are difficult to find. Phone cards can be bought at all Teléfonos Mexicanos offices. International phone calls from Mexico are very expensive because of the taxes and surcharges levied.
Fax services are available at most major hotels.
Electricity
The standard power supply system is 110-120 volts AC at 60 cycles per second. You will need an adapter plug and a voltage converter that fits the standardised plug outlets (plugs have two flat prongs).
Disabled Travellers
Although conditions are improving, most disabled travellers will find Mexico difficult to negotiate. Only the larger hotels and airline carriers offer special facilities, and most buildings and public transport services do not make provision for wheelchairs.
Budget Travel
Only a handful of youth hostels are to be found in Mexico, spread throughout the country. Students often qualify for cheaper international flights, and can get discounts on transport and entry into museums and other public places. Hitchhiking is not recommended, especially not for women travelling on their own. The following organisations can be contacted for further details:
Council on International Educational Exchange (CIEE)
205 E. 42nd Street
New York
NY 10017
United States
Tel. 1-212-661-1414
Campus Travel
52 Grosvenor Gardens
London SW1W OAG
England
Tel. 44-171-730-8832
International Student Exchange Flights (ISE Flights)
5010 E. Shea Boulevard
#A104
Scottsdale
AZ 85354
United States
Tel. 1-602-951-1177
History
About 50,000 years ago the first people arrived in what is now known as Mexico. They came from Asia and were the ancestors of Mexico's Indian population. Mexico's history can be divided into five main eras, the Preclassic Period (1,500BC to 300AD), the Classic Period (300 to 900AD), the Postclassic Period (900 to 1,500AD) and the Contemporary Period (1,500AD to the present). Domestication started to take place during the Archaic Period (5,200 to 1,500BC).
During the Preclassic Period the Olmecs were the most developed culture in Mexico. They lived near the states of Veracruz and Tabasco, as they are now called. The Olmecs are famous for their sculptures of jaguars and massive heads with feline characteristics. They were the first people in Mexico to use a calendar and a written language. From 900BC to 100BC all the Olmec settlements were violently destroyed, which led to the collapse of this culture. During the last years of the existence of the Olmecs they came into contact with the Maya.
The Maya were the most developed culture in the Classic Period. They preferred to live in cities such as Palenque and Uxmal where art and science were the main activities. Architecture, mathematics, astronomy, engineering, and art were studied and developed, and the cities became centres of learning. A class system developed, with a religious aristocracy, a merchant, artisan and farming class. The Maya were also a warlike culture that raided their neighbouring settlements and took captives to use as sacrifices in religious rituals. The Mayan empire collapsed around 900AD, largely due to the overexploitation of natural resources, and revolts by the lower classes. They were succeeded by the Toltec, a culture from the west of Mexico that were heavily influenced by the Olmec. Theirs was a warlike culture, and practised human sacrifice and studied the stars, much as their predecessors had.
After the fall of the Toltec civilization around 900AD a migrant period started. Large groups of people left the cities and started exploring further afield, looking for alternative places to settle. Around 1,300AD, in the Postclassic Period, the Aztecs settled in Mexico Valley. A powerful and warlike civilisation, they built their capital, Tenochtitlàn, on an island in Lake Texcoco. Human sacrifice was an important part of their religious ceremonies and each year thousands died on the altars. Quetzalcoatl, the feathered serpent, was one of their most prominent gods. The disappearance of this god, a priest in the city, and the belief that he would one day return, ultimately led to the fall of the Aztec empire.
Hernán Cortez and several hundred Spanish soldiers landed at Cozumel in 1519, during the rule of Moctezuma. Looking for gold and slaves they marched to Tenochtitlàn where Moctezuma, believing that Cortez was the returning Quetzalcoatl, passively received him. This peace did not last and Cortez fled the city only to return victoriously two years later. With the help of local Aztec enemies he defeated the last Aztec emperor, Cuathémoc, and tried in vain to find their legendary gold treasures. The Spanish brought with them diseases against which the local Indian population had no resistance. Within a hundred years about 96% of the indigenous Indian population was wiped out, which left the way open for Spanish settlers to occupy the empty land. Franciscan and Augustine clerics were sent to covert Mexico, and the remaining Indians were used as slaves on the farms and in the gold mines.
Mexico was ruled by Spain until 1821, when riots led by priests Miguel Hidalgo and José María Morelos resulted in the country's independence. After a shortlived dictatorship under Augustín Iturbide, Guadalupe Victoria became Mexico's first president. After 36 changes in presidency, the power went to Antonio de Santa Anna in 1855. Following Santa Anna's dictatorial rule, Benito Juárez became president. Under his leadership Mexico defeated invading French forces and economic reforms were instituted that were to shore up the Mexican economy for decades to come. In 1876 Porfirio Díaz became the president of Mexico. During his presidency the emphasis was on stability, economic reform and progress. Unfortunately this stability was attained by changing the country into a dictatorship which bled the working classes dry.
The dismal working conditions and abject poverty of the working classes led to the Mexican Revolution. The Díaz government fled to Paris, and after almost ten years of fighting between the different revolutionary factions Mexico found stability under the leadership of the Partido Revolucionario Institucional (el PRI). This party has been in power since its inception in 1929. An institution that brooks little opposition and criticism, some say it has achieved stability in Mexico at the price of liberty.
The Mexican economy, largely dependent on the country's oil income, experienced a severe setback in the 1980s when the oil price was reduced. This, together with the signing of the North American Free Trade Agreement (NAFTA, 1994) and the drop in the coffee price has affected the economy to such an extent that it has not yet recovered. During the 1994 presidential elections the PRI candidate, Luis Donaldo Colosio, was assassinated. The PRI closed ranks and quickly had Ernesto de LeÓn in the running and victorious in the election. After a period of turmoil Mexico seems to be slowly finding its way to democracy.
Economy
Mexico is by no means an impoverished country. The most important industry in the country is oil production. In the early eighties Mexico was the world's fourth largest oil producer. Gold, silver and numerous other precious metals are mined here. Industrial development in Mexico was accelerated during World War II when the government requested industrialists to keep costs (in other words, wages) as low as possible, yet still increase production. All protests by workers were suppressed by military troops. In 1994 Mexico made world headlines with the signing of the North American Free Trade Agreement (NAFTA). This agreement between Mexico and the United States suspended all controls over the import of US goods into Mexico. Although it increased free trade, it also hit most of the smaller businesses in the country very hard.
Population
Mexico has a population of 90 million. About 15% of them are of Spanish descent, 60% mestizo (Spanish and Indian descent) and 25% Indian. There are also a small number of Africans, descendants of the slaves brought there during the Spanish rule, and Europeans.
Government
Mexico is a republic with an elected president and a bicameral legislature. The legislature, or Congress of the Union as it is also called, is composed of two houses, a senate and a chamber of deputies. The country is divided into 31 states, with one federal district (Mexico City). The legislature makes the law. Members of the senate are elected for a sixyear term and members of the chamber of deputies for three years. The president is elected for a term of six years, and under the constitution acts as both head of state and head of government.
For the last 68 years the Institutional Revolutionary Party (PRI) has been holding the political reigns in Mexico. This absolute control has started to waiver in the face of the growing popularity of opposition parties. During the 1988 elections the PRI presidential candidate, Carlos Salinas de Gortari, barely won, with a majority of 0.36%. The PRI's main opposition is the National Democratic Front (FDN) led by Cuauhtémoc Cárdenas.
In order to stay in power President Gortari will have to address the inequalities between the social conditions of the lower and upper economic classes. Living conditions are worst in the south of Mexico where there are almost no public services, schools or medical services, and where clean drinking water is virtually unknown. The infant mortality rate in the south is ten times the national average. In recent years guerrilla groups such as the Zapatistas have risen up in protest against these bad social conditions. In 1994 this guerrilla group occupied several towns in the state of Chiapa, and demanded that the government improve living conditions and curb election fraud. Although attempts have been made to improve the situation, there is still much work to be done.
Language
The official language is Spanish. As many as 50 different Indian languages are spoken in the more rural areas such as the Yucatán peninsula, Chiapas and Puebla.
A basic knowledge of Spanish will be of great help to tourists, as English is usually only spoken in the larger restaurants, shops, hotels and markets.
Religion
The majority of the population is Roman Catholic. Belief in the supernatural plays an important part in the everyday life of most Mexicans. Ancient gods such as Quetzalcoatl, the plumed serpent god and Ometeotl, ruler of heaven, earth and the underworld are still very much respected and revered.
Art & Culture
Museums
Mexico's most famous museum, the Museo Nacional de Antropología is situated in Mexico City. Housed in its 23 halls is one of the foremost collections of PreColumbian art in the world. The National Mask Museum in Guadelajara has a collection of regional dance masks from all over Mexico. It is one of only two collections of its kind in the country. The Museo de Antopología de Jalapa in Guanajuato is the second largest museum in the country, and has exhibits covering the history of Mexico from the Olmec period to the present.
Local Art
The works of many of Mexico's famous artists, such as Frida Kahlo, José María Velasco, Rufino Tamayo and Gerardo Murillo can be found in galleries and museums around the country. Murals by the 'famous three', Diego Rivera, David Siquieros and José Clemente Orozco adorn the walls of many prominent public buildings.
Theatres
The Palacio de Bellas Artes in Mexico City is an Art Deco masterpiece. It has a magnificent glass curtain made by Tiffany that is constructed of almost a million pieces of jewellike glass. A number of ballets and operas are presented here every year. The Teatro Degollado in Guadelajara hosts several performances during the year, including the Ballet Folklórico on Sundays.
Food & Drink
In Mexico, breakfast is usually served around 10:00 or 11:00, lunch between 13:00 and 17:00 and dinner at 21:00 or 22:00. Local specialities include tamales (meat wrapped in a steamed corn husk), and tortillas (a maize flour bread in the form of a pancake). Maize and beans make up an important part of the traditional Mexican diet. Cooking differs from region to region, and each area has its own speciality.
Mexico's most famous drink is undoubtedly tequila, which is distilled from blue maguey. Beverages such as rum, beer and wine are also produced in the country.
When dining out, there is a wide variety of restaurants to choose from, and once you have succeeded in getting the attention of a waiter, service is usually good. Because dinner is served quite late, restaurants stay open until long after sundown.
Entertainment
Mexico has a vibrant nightlife; bars are very popular, and there are discos in most of the larger towns and cities. Mexicans love films, and there are plenty of cinemas in the larger cities such as Mexico City. All the major centres have theatres where performances ranging from opera to ballet are given.
Sport
Golf, tennis and cycling are very popular in Mexico. All the major tourist centres feature 18hole golf courses which are usually attached to hotels. Tennis courts can be found at hotels in all the popular resorts. As in the rest of Latin America, Mexicans are crazy about football (soccer). Horse riding is widely available, and offers a unique way of seeing the country. Mountain climbers come from all over the world to scale the rugged peaks of the Mexican mountain ranges.
More traditional sports such as jai alai (a form of pelota played by two or four players), charreada (a form of rodeo) and bullfighting are practised countrywide.
Mexico's coastline is ideal for sports such as waterskiing, surfing, snorkelling and scuba diving. Windsurfing is becoming increasingly popular, particularly in Cancún, where the conditions are ideal for the sport. Conditions are also ideal for boating, sailing and fishing, and equipment can be hired in most major resorts, both inland and coastal.
Shopping
Handicrafts are probably the most popular purchase in Mexico. Most of the fun lies not in the purchasing of a item, but in finding the right one in any of Mexico's delightful street markets. Wonderful silver and gold jewellery can be purchased at El Costillo in Taxco or at Oro de Monte Albán in Oaxaca. Handblown glass can be bought at Artmex la Rosa de Cristal in Tlaquepaque. Local art work can be admired, and purchased, at Galeria San Miguel in San Miguel de Allende.
Shows & Festivals
Mexican fiestas and fairs dot the calendar, and provide an opportunity for feasting, music, dancing and general rejoicing. They are a way of life, and every town and village in Mexico hosts at least one annual celebration. Some of these celebrations date back to pagan times, and relate to aspects of nature, while others came about with the introduction of Christianity, and show a strong Spanish influence. One thing is certain though: whether marking a religious occasion or a secular one, Mexicans do it with impressive flair and merriment.
Carnaval, a festival similar to the New Orleans Mardi Gras is celebrated on the three days that precede Ash Wednesday at the beginning of Lent (late February/early March).
The Holy Week festival celebrates the last week in the life of Christ with religious processions, biblical reenactments and a food and crafts fair. It takes place from Good Friday to Easter Sunday.
The festival of the Assumption of the Virgin Mary on 15 and 16 August is celebrated with processions, a copper crafts fair and a parade of floats.
The Day of the Dead festival takes place on 1 and 2 November, and honours all saints, and the deceased. Although it is celebrated nationally, it is quite a unique affair on the tiny island of Janitzio in Lake Pátzcuaro. Here, villagers go to the cemetery with torches and candles, bearing food offerings and flowers for deceased family members. In the rest of Mexico, the festival is similar to the American festival of Halloween, and children carry small coffi |
