Ecuador is a budget traveler's paradise-from jungle to coast, city to village, there's tons to see and do, and all at the fraction of the cost of most other major tourist destinations. You may have seen the nightlife in Quito, the surfers in Montañita, or the peaks of the Andes, but most travelers mistakenly bypass one of the country's hidden treasures. Guayaquil, Ecuador's largest city with a population of around 3 million, is the country's new up-and-coming tourist hot spot, and deserves a stop on any traveler's itinerary. The city has been pumping money into creating a prettier, safer, more tourist-friendly city, and it most certainly has paid off. Today, visitors will find a clean, safe metropolis, with endless attractions and world-class amenities, and all with a budget-friendly price tag.

For years, travelers have dismissed this coastal city as a crime-filled metropolis seen only en route to the Galapagos. But the city government has been cracking down on crime, reinvigorating slums, and developing cultural sights, and today the city is the vibrant heart of Ecuador and a great place to imbibe the hustle-and-bustle of urban Ecuadorian life. Here are a few highlights of Guayaquil, a city that deserves to be a destination, not a transit point.

Top things to do and see in and around Guayaquil

Located directly north of Malecón 2000, this recently renovated hill is one of the most amazing examples of Guayaquil's massive transformation. Cerro Santa Ana, which once was an overcrowded, poor area, has been the target of a huge beautification project. Today, this is one of the premiere tourist destinations in Guayaquil. Brightly colored houses flank a wide path and stairway that lead up the hill; many of these homes are also family-run restaurants, gift shops, bars, and galleries. Huff and puff up all 465 steps to the top, and check out the scenery from atop the lighthouse-it is the highest point within the city limits. A small chapel sits across from the lighthouse, and is worth a look as well.

This brand-new, world-class historical park, zoo, and nature reserve is one of the city's under-discovered gems that is poised to become one of its largest attractions. On the banks of the Rio Guayas, the park is composed of three zones: the zone of traditions, the urban architecture zone, and the wildlife zone, each with a distinctive flavor and focus. Such a diverse makeup enables the park to cover a substantial variety of topics and displays. From monkeys and exotic birds, banana trees and a vegetable garden, to full-sized replicas of jungle houses, the park really does have something for everyone. Perhaps even more impressive are the restored buildings from nearly a century ago, including what used to be the main buildings in downtown Guayaquil and a gigantic house that once belonged to a wealthy farm owner, complete with period furnishings. The park is extremely popular with school groups, but it also offers tourists a look into the cultural, ecological, and historical past of the city and region. Currently, the only way to get there is by car or taxi, but plans are in the works to start a ferry service from the Malecón 2000 directly to the park; call for updated information.

Guayaquil's pride-Malecón 2000-is the well-maintained boardwalk along the Río Guayas, stretching for several kilometers. It also happens to be one of the safest spots in the city-well-situated police guards patrol the Malecón day and night, making it also a great spot for a day or evening stroll or run. Hungry? Stop at one of the many little stands to buy some inexpensive comida típica, satisfy your fast-food craving at one of several American-style fast food joints, or eat and drink in style at the Resaca bar and restaurant, which serves reasonably priced local cuisine.

Squeezing a little shopping into any itinerary is always fun, and Guayaquil's two premiere markets make it even better. The bahía, Guayaquil's typical import and goods market, is home to every type of clothing, electronics, CD, or other consumer product you can imagine. Even more unique is the city's handicraft market (Mercado Artesenal), which holds 280 exhibition and sales booths run directly by many of the artisans themselves. Located toward the northern end of the Malecón, between Juan Montalvo, Baquerizo Moreno, and Loja Streets, this market is the best place in the area to buy everything from hammocks to artwork to woven bags and clothing.

Yes, the rumors are true-Panama hats are made in Ecuador, not in Panama. And, conveniently, many of the best are made only kilometers from Guayaquil, making a tour of the small hat-making towns a great daytrip. The Santa Elena peninsula is home to several of these small villages, and an organized tour from Guayaquil will take you step-by-step through the hat-making process, from the boiling and refining of the straw to the weaving and finishing of the hats. For more information on Panama hat tours, contact Ecuandino. (Contact information: ecuandin@telconet.net; phone (5934) 2326375.)

Guayaquil's appropriately named ciudad blanca ("white city") is perhaps the most interesting sight in the city. Nearly two kilometers long, and housing more than 600,000 graves, this cemetery-the largest of the city's four-boasts exquisite mausoleums, intricately carved statues, impressively manicured pathways and alleys, and over 100 years of Guayaquil's history. While the city's elites were buried within the cemetery's gates, the poor have taken up the less expensive real estate just up the hill.

Keep your eyes out for this museum, because once it opens (sometime in 2003), it will undoubtedly be Ecuador's most prized art and anthropological museum. The modern building itself, located at the far end of the Malecón, is absolutely incredible even without being filled with art. Some of its features include a full-sized theater, several large exhibit halls, and a breathtaking foyer. Once open, there will be areas for anthropology, visual arts, music, film, and commercial products. Ask around for updates on when the museum will open.