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Jamaica, Arawak for "Land of wood and water," is the word that gave Jamaica its name. Completely surrounded by the blue-green crystalline waters of the Caribbean, it is an island paradise with waterfalls, springs, streams & pools. Many of the 120 rivers that flow to the sea find their sources in the forest-covered hills of Jamaica's six central mountain ranges. Its 300 plus year history is richly varied by the cultures of the Arawak Indians, who were the first to make it their home, along with settlers from Spain, England, Africa, China, India, Portugal, Scotland, Syria, Nepal and France. The culture, architecture and cuisine reflect all of these heritages, which explains the country's motto, "Out of many, one people." Enjoy the silvery beaches of Montego Bay, climb Dunn's River falls at Ocho Rio, or soak up the art and culture of Kingston. Drive through Fern Gully - a lush forest with over 500 varieties of ferns. Visit a 2,000-foot high plateau in the Don Figuerero Mountains, crowned by a village rich in English traditions. Stroll through fishing villages, sail a catamaran, and at night, dance to Jamaica's reggae beat.
Think of Jamaica and images of idyllic beaches, the Blue Mountains, rum, reggae and rastas might spring to mind. This island with its distinct brand of Caribbean appeal has a place to suit every mood, from the vibrant capital of Kingston to the sweeping beaches of Negril and the cool, green surrounds of Mandeville. Jamaica has a fascinating history which includes domination by the Spanish and English and their exploitation of African slaves. All these influences are reflected in the rich culture apparent in the language, food and people themselves.
The famous Blue Mountains form part of the range that runs like a spine from east to west across the island. Some 120 rivers and numerous waterfalls tumble down the mountains sharply to the coast, particularly in the north which is cooler and greener than the south with its wider coastal plains. The north coast has most of the resorts, cruise ports and the best beaches, whilst the south quietly boasts secluded coves and fishing villages.
Temperatures are warm throughout the year, falling in a range of around 27-32°C (80-90°F). Tropical showers fall mainly in May and October although there may be showers at any time. Generally the south is drier and hotter than the north but the island as a whole can be quite humid so take light, natural fabrics for daytimes and light woollens for the evenings, which may be cooler.
Don't miss Jamaica - it's one irie nation!
Time
Jamaica is in the Eastern USA time zone but does not change to daylight savings time so that by late April and late October, Jamaica is one hour behind USA Eastern Standard Time. Jamaica is five hours behind GMT.
Tourist Offices
The Jamaican Tourist Board is a good source of information and has an excellent web site. Contact addresses of tourist offices in Jamaica and abroad.
Visas & Passports
A valid passport is required by all visitors to Jamaica, excepting citizens of the USA and Canada. Sufficient funds and a ticket for onward destination are required for a visit.
Only the following countries are exempt from visa requirements:
(Bracketed information indicates the maximum length of visit permitted.)
- nationals of EU countries
- United Kingdom and Ireland (6 months)
- Denmark, Italy, Luxembourg, The Netherlands, Belgium and Germany (3 months)
- national of Commonwealth countries
- nationals of the USA including the Virgin Islands and Puerto Rico (6 months)
- nationals of Austria, Finland, Iceland, Israel, Liechtenstein, Mexico, Norway, San Marino, Sweden, Switzerland and Turkey (3 months)
- nationals of Argentina, Brazil, Chile, Costa Rica, Ecuador, Japan and Uruguay (30 days)
- nationals of Venezuela (14 days)
A work permit is usually required for a business visit. Contact a Jamaican embassy for further advice.
Customs
Duty -free limits when entering the country are 200 cigarettes or 50 cigars or 250 g (0.5 lb) tobacco; 1 l (32 fl oz) of spirits (excluding rum); 2 l of wine 150 g (6 fluid ounces) of perfume and 340 ml (12 fl oz) of eau de toilette and gifts to the value of JMD 40.00 during a six-month period.
Items that may not be brought into the country include fresh flowers, plants, honey, fruit, meat and vegetables (excluding canned), coffee (in any form), firearms, explosives and dangerous drugs. Marijuana is also prohibited. Pets are not allowed unless being brought directly from the United Kingdom with an import permit obtainable from the British Ministry of Agriculture.
Money
The Jamaican Dollar is divided into 100 cents. Notes are available in denominations of JMD 100, 50, 20, 10, 5, 2 and 1. Coins are issued in denominations of JMD 1.00, and 50, 25, 20, 10, 5 and 1 cents.
There is a departure tax of JMD 500.00 or USD 14.00, payable in cash at the airport on departure.
Foreign currency and traveller’s cheques may be exchanged for Jamaican dollars at banks or licensed foreign exchange bureaus. Purchases may be made in any currency recognised by the Jamaican Government. Traveller’s cheques in US Dollars are recommended.
Foreign exchange bureaus at Montego Bay and Kingston Airports are open for all international arrivals and departures. Jamaican Dollars may be reconverted into foreign currency upon departure by presenting a foreign exchange receipt at the airport foreign exchange bureau.
Eurocheques are accepted by commercial banks.
Jamaican dollars and foreign currency may be taken into or out of Jamaica. However, amounts exceeding the equivalent of USD 10,000.00 or JMD 150,000.00 must be declared to the Jamaican Customs.
Major credit cards are widely accepted. These include Access/Mastercard, American Express, Diners Club and Visa.
Room occupancy is subject to a 12.5% general consumption tax. Most hotels have a service charge of 10 to 15%. The same applies to restaurants although generally it is not added to the bills.
Business Hours
Business hours are generally from 08:30 or 09:00 to 16:40 or 17:00 and closed at weekends.
Banking hours vary, but are usually from 09:00 to 15:30 on weekdays and from 08:30 to 11:00 on Saturdays. Banking facilities are available at the three international airports.
Shops open between 08:30 and 09:00 and close at 17:00 from Monday to Friday. On Saturday they are open until 18:00. In the resort areas shops are usually open on Sunday.
Transport
International airports are situated in Kingston (Norman Manley Airports) and Montego Bay (Donald Sangster Airport). Air Jamaica is the national airline and flies to most US cities and London. Many other international airlines fly to Jamaica. Trans Jamaica Airlines runs domestic flights to and from Kingston, Montego Bay, Port Antonio, Mandeville, Ocho Rios and Negril.
Licensed taxis can be recognised by the red Public Passenger Vehicle (PPV) plates they display. Taxis can be flagged down on the street, or ordered by telephone. Taxi fares are charged by car rather than by person.
Cars are driven on the left-hand side of the road. The speed limit is 50 km (30 mph) in towns and 80 km (50 mph) on highways. A United Kingdom driver's license is valid for up to twelve months per visit. A North American driver's license is valid for up to three months per visit, however, there is a minimum age limit of 21 years. A Japanese International driver's license is valid for up to one month from time of entry. A third of Jamaica's 17,000 km (11,000 miles) of road is tarred but outside the major towns the roads may be poorly maintained. Car rental is fairly expensive and booking is advisable.
A diesel train runs between Kingston and Montego Bay and unveils an ever-changing panorama during the five-hour journey. The network covers nearly 340 km (211 miles) of land and provides a comfortable opportunity to view the interior of the island.
Buses are the most popular mode of transport but some services can be crowded and slow. Connections between Kingston and Montego Bay and other major resorts are usually reliable.
Cruise lines regularly call at the ports of Montego Bay and Ocho Rios, some sailing from North and Central American ports, others from the Mediterranean.
Bicycle hire is available in the main resort centres and is a good way of getting around locally.
Public Holidays
Jamaica has nine public holidays.
Peak Seasons
Jamaica is at its busiest from January to April, during the coolest, driest months. If you're on a tight budget keep in mind that hotel prices are often much cheaper out of season.
Post & Telecommunications
Airmail post to Europe takes up to four days and there are plenty of post offices all over the island. Post offices are open 08:30 to 16:30, Monday to Friday.
The telephone service provider is Jamintel. Full international direct dialling is available. Public telephone are available in most areas taking coins and phone cards which are available from many outlets, including pharmacies and fuel stations. A fax service is available in most hotels and from 07:00 to 10:00 daily at the Jamintel office in Kingston. Telegraph and telex facilities are also widely available.
The country code is 1809. There are no area codes.
The outgoing international code is 011.
Electricity
The standard electricity supply is 110 volts, 50 Hz with standard 2-pin plugs. Hotel electricity supply may also offer 220 volts, 50 Hz with 3-pin sockets, depending on the location. Hotels may have adaptors available.
Disabled Travellers
The Jamaica Tourist Board can supply details of accommodation with facilites for disabled visitors.
Budget Travel
Most cities have a few youth hostels. There are a number of camp sites around the main resorts and in the Blue Mountains.
History
The Arawak and the Spaniards
The Indian tribe, the Arawak, were the first people known to have reached Jamaica. They arrived by tree-trunk canoe from the Orinoco region of South America around 1000 CE. The next significant arrival was Christopher Columbus at what is now known as Discovery Bay on 4 May, 1494. He claimed the island for Spain and named it Santiago but its name endured as Jamaica which is derived from the Arawak word, ‘Xaymaca’ meaning ‘land of wood and water’. The peaceful Arawaks were enslaved by the Spaniards and within 50 years had been wiped out by disease and overwork. Having found no precious metals in Jamaica, the Spaniards did not try to settle or develop the island but utilised it as a supply base. In 1655, five thousand British soldiers under Admirals Venables and Penn, arrived in Kingston Harbour and met little resistance from the Spaniards. By 1660 they controlled most of the island.
British rule and piracy
The next three centuries of British rule was a vivid period of history enlivened by pirates, rum and booty. Port Royal became the base from which the infamous buccaneer, Sir Henry Morgan operated. He was the best of friends with Jamaica’s governor and enjoyed the protection of the British government, plundering as he pleased. He was knighted and made lieutenant governor of Jamaica by the age of thirty. Port Royal was once called ‘the wickedest city of Christendom’ and was subject to an almost biblical retribution when an earthquake and subsequent tidal wave annihilated the city in 1962, and swept hordes of pirate booty into the ocean.
Sugar cane and slavery
The sugar cane era followed, bringing prosperity for some and slavery to others. To cultivate the sugar, people from Africa were sold into slavery and transported to Jamaica, along with indentured Indian workers. These were followed by the Chinese, Arabs, Scots, Irish and others. The huge sugar cane plantations with their palatial residences and gracious living depended on this vast, exploited labour force. As a result, large organised slave markets were established and Jamaica became the shipment centre for slaves being taken to the colonies in the Americas. African slaves known as Maroons escaped into the mountains and made raids on the settlements and plantations. Fierce fighting occurred between them and the British until a peace treaty was signed in 1738. Today, descendants of the Maroons still maintain a degree of autonomy in the mountains. In 1807, the slave trade in Jamaica was abolished and slaves were freed by the British Parliament in 1838. Most of the emancipated slaves left the plantation to set up their own farms in the hills and the plantation owners lost thousands of labourers.
Self-determination
The Morant Bay Rebellion resulted from disputes between the planters and their workers. British troops quelled this peasant revolt but it resulted in Jamaica becoming a crown colony governed entirely by Britain. Previously Jamaicans had an input into the British rule of the island by means of an elected House of Assembly.
Islanders became more aware of their nation's identity and political leaders called for the British to give the Jamaican people more political power. Two important figures emerged: Sir Alexander Bustamante, later of the Jamaica Labour Party (JLP) and Norman W. Manley, later of the People's National Party (PNP). They campaigned for better working conditions and wages, as well as political reform including universal adult suffrage. In 1944, a new constitution was written and in 1962, Jamaica became a completely independent nation. It also joined the United Nations that year and became a member of the Commonwealth.
The main parties the Jamaica Labour Party (JLP) and the People's National Party (PNP) maintain their quest for democracy. The parties have alternated control and each attracts the support of about half of the electorate.
Population
Jamaica has a population of some 2,375,000 people most of whom live in the coastal areas. About a third of the population live in Kingston. Most Jamaicans have African, Afro-European or East Indian ancestry. Small minorities from the United Kingdom, India, China, Syria, Portugal and Germany can be found in Jamaica.
Government
Jamaica has its own constitution based on inherited British legal, religious, educational and political traditions. It has a parliamentary democracy with an elected House of Representatives and nominated Upper House or Senate. The Cabinet is appointed by the governor general on the advice of the prime minister and the leader of the opposition. The governor general represents the monarch but has few governing powers. The people elect the 45-60 persons in the House of Representatives. There is a well-established two-party system and elections are usually held every five years. Jamaicans over the age of eighteen years are eligible to vote.
The main parties are the Jamaica Labour Party (JLP) and the People’s National Party (PNP).
The head of state is Queen Elizabeth II (since 6 February 1952), represented by Governor Sir Howard Cooke (since 1 August 1991). The head of government is the Prime Minister P J Patterson (PNP) since 30 March 1992. The Deputy Prime Minister and leader of the opposition is Seymour Mullings since 1993. Other political groups with significant sway are the Rastafarians and the New Beginnings Movement.
Jamaica’s administrative districts are divided into fourteen parishes and three counties: Cornwall, Middlesex and Surrey.
Language
Jamaica is the largest English-speaking country in the Caribbean and has English as the official language. The very distinctive and charming Jamaican patois is derived from English with influences of African languages, Spanish and French. It is widely spoken in Jamaica. The Rastafarians have a dialect which is influencing the way English is spoken in Jamaica.
Religion
The Pentecostal, Baptist, Anglican and other Protestant denominations are prevalent. A blending of traditional African beliefs with Christian practices has resulted in a number of sects such as Pocomania. Various cult beliefs are followed by minorities, these include Obeah, Nyal, Kumina and Bongo. There are also Roman Catholic, Jewish, Muslim, Hindu and Bahá’í communities. The politico-religious movement of the Rastafarians developed in Jamaica and is grounded on the beliefs of Marcus Garvey. Rastas worship Haile Selassie I of Ethiopia (Ras Tafari) as their god. The religion has a wide following in Jamaica and has had a profound effect on Jamaican society as well as many other parts of the world.
Did you know...
Cruising down the Rio Grande, near Port Antonio, on a bamboo raft is a popular tourist pursuit in Jamaica but bamboo rafts were not always employed for this purpose. Previously, huge harvests of bananas were transported to Port Antonio this way. The port became the centre of the banana trade during the 1920s and 30s until the trees were hit by Panama disease and a number of hurricanes. Port Antonio was one of the first resorts to gain popularity with tourists thanks to its banana connection: it became fashionable to sail there from North America on the empty cargo boats on their way to collect bananas!
Art & Culture
Kingston is the centre of art and culture in Jamaica. Here one finds a wide variety of galleries, theatrical events and nightlife. Reggae is probably the most well known cultural export of Jamaica and includes the names of Bob Marley, Peter Tosh and Shabba Ranks. The rhythms of salsa, calypso and jazz can also be heard. Jamaicans love to dance and the National Dance Theatre Company founded in 1962 is internationally celebrated. Much of the country's cultural life finds its outlet in the many festivals held throughout the year. The festivals include arts and crafts exhibitions and literary, theatrical and musical competitions as well as street dancing and parades. The Institute of Jamaica actively promotes theatre and art and is responsible for the Cultural Training Centre where training in art, dance, drama and music takes place. Jamaica has produced a number of films, notably about the Rastafarian culture, such as Countryman and Stepping Razor. It has also been the setting for many famous movies such as Dr. No and the Blue Lagoon.
Food & Drink
There is a cosmopolitan range of excellent restaurants to suit all budgets, and the island's cuisine reflects influences from all over the world.
A typical local dish is 'rice and peas' which is white rice cooked with red beans, coconut milk, scallions and seasoning (and not a pea in sight). Jerk pork is another Jamaican speciality, where pork (preferably the whole pig) is smothered in a paste of hot peppers, berries and herbs and roasted slowly over a coal fire. Pepperpot is another speciality, this fiery soup is a combination of salt beef, salt pork and okra.
The health conscious can't go wrong with the vital ital served by the Rasta restaurants found over the island. Fresh fruit and vegetables form the basis for this delicious fare. Minnie, Bob Marley's former cook, has her own eponymous restaurant in Kingston, where dining is often accompanied by a reggae band.
Exotic fruit and vegetables are found in wide abundance in Jamaica. These have interesting names such as star apple, sour sop, sweet sop, ortanique and stinking toe.
Jamaica is renowned for its rum and the serving of alcohol is not restricted by licensing hours. You should also try the interesting fresh juices offered such as sour sop, tamarind, sorrel and coconut.
Entertainment
Theatre and live performances are concentrated in Kingston but lively nightlife can be found in any of the large resort hotels that provide a busy entertainment schedule with in-house discos and nightclubs. Information about current events can be found in the local paper, the Daily Gleaner, and at Jamaican Tourist Board offices.
Sport
Jamaica is a haven for watersport enthusiasts. The waters of the Caribbean Sea surrounding Jamaica offer a vista of exotic marine life. Guidance can be obtained from one of the many licensed diving operators offering equipment and instruction. The best beaches for swimming and surfing are found mainly on the north coast. Swimming, and windsurfing, snorkelling and scuba diving, fresh- and sea-water fishing, deep-sea fishing and spearfishing are among the watersports that can be enjoyed on the island. Catches include blue marlin, wahoo and tuna. A more unusual pursuit is waterfall climbing, at Dunn’s River Falls one can climb 183 m (600 ft) up through crystal, cascading waters.
With eleven golf courses to choose from Jamaica is a golfer’s paradise. Montego Bay has particularly good facilities with three fine courses. To get around independently, bicycles and motorcycles are available for rent in some resorts. Fill your lungs and stretch your limbs with some climbing or hiking in the magnificent Blue Mountains. Equestrian pursuits including horseback riding, jumping and polo are available at Chukka Cove. For the adventurous, bamboo rafting down the breathtaking rivers and rapids is a great pastime.
Cricket is a national passion and played from January to August in Sabina Park, Kingston and all over the island. Football and polo are also popular.
Festivals
Jamaica hosts a wealth of lively festivals. Here is a sample of what's on offer:
- Accompong Maroon Festival in January – the annual celebration by the Maroons in Western Jamaica dating back to the nineteenth century.
- Bob Marley Birthday Bash, February 6 – an annual celebration with a concert featuring popular reggae artists.
- Carib Cement Marathon in February – the fourth staging of this 42.7 km (26 mile) marathon offers athletes a challenging run through the island's capital city.
- Montego Bay Yacht Club's Easter Regatta in March.
- Carnival in Jamaica at the end of March – a week long celebration of fetes, concerts and street parades, with colourful parades and dancing in the streets of Ocho Rios, Kingston and Montego Bay.
- Jamaica Jazz Festival in June with local and international jazz artists.
- Reggae Sunsplash in July – the famous annual international reggae festival now in its twentieth year.
- Reggae Sumfest in August – this five-year-old annual music festival is held in Montego Bay.
- Port Antonio International Blue Marlin Tournament in October – anglers vie for a number of trophies in various categories: most fish caught, biggest fish, marlin caught on a sailboat, canoe, and others.
Shopping
Obvious gifts to take from Jamaica are the famous Blue Mountain coffee or the island's varieties of rum and liqueurs. Reggae music is a good buy, as is inexpensive leather work.
There are many craft stalls in the resorts, selling straw hats, tie-dyed clothes, jewellery, wooden carvings and T-shirts.
Kingston and Ocho Rios are particularly good areas for shopping for craft items, jewellery and china. In the resort towns, where the cruise lines call, there are many upmarket shops. At the other end of the scale, most towns have a marketplace which is often the hub of society, selling fresh produce and indicative of real Jamaican life.
Parks & Reserves
Jamaica has many areas of natural beauty with an abundance of wildlife and vegetation to explore:
Black River Morass
The great morass around the Black River is the largest wetland on the island. The coastline of the morass is mangrove swamp giving way to saltgrass marsh and leading to wetland forest. The rich birdlife in the area includes waders, West Indian whistling ducks and ibises. The area is well worth a visit and can be viewed from the roads that run around it.
Blue Mountains National Park
The Blue Mountains are cloaked in forests of the national tree, the blue mahoe, and mahogany. Lush treeferns and orchids abound. It's easy to get to the Blue Mountains from Kingston and there are many trails and hikes on and around the range. However, reaching the summit, Blue Mountain Peak (2,255 m or 7,402 ft) is no mean feat; steep, strenuous tracks are unavoidable and it will take about five hours. Organised hikes are available. The southern slopes are more accessible and the inspirational views will make it all worthwhile.
Cockpit Country
The lowlands in the north-western part of the country, have an intriguing limestone plateau with underground caverns and streams known as karst. Bizarre shapes have been formed due to erosion caused by slightly acidic rainwater falling on the limestone. The highest part of the karst includes deep depressions and sinkholes known as cockpits. Consequently, this area is known as the Cockpit Country and it is advisable to view it using a four-wheel drive.
Marshall's Pen
Marshall's Pen, situated near Mandeville, is a cattle ranch with a private nature reserve. The forests surrounding the farms are a haven for birdlife and many of Jamaica's indigenous birds can be spotted here.
Climate
Jamaica has a tropical climate but the heat and humidity is relieved somewhat by the tradewind. Along the coast there isn’t a great deal of seasonal variation to speak of, temperatures generally range between 27 °C (80 °F) and 30 °C (86 °F), whilst in the high mountains temperatures can be 5 or 6 °C (20 °F) cooler. The climate is coolest from December to March, particularly along the north coast.
Rain falls throughout the year, but predominantly in May and October. Most rain falls in the form of tropical showers during spring and autumn, from May to June and September to October, respectively. Hurricanes and tropical storms can strike the island from June to October, lasting up to one or two weeks but government agencies broadcast warnings and instructions when necessary. Rainfall along the coast is around 760 mm (30 in) rising to 5,000 mm (200 in) in the eastern mountains. The southern coast tends to be drier than the northern parts.
Jamaica is the third largest island 10,991 km² (4,224 mile²) in the Caribbean, after Cuba and Puerto Rica. It forms part of the Greater Antilles and is situated 28° north of the equator. The interior of the island has rugged and densely forested highlands with an elevation of 1,524 to 2,134 m (5,000 to 7,000 ft). A spine of mountains traverses the island, and includes the famous Blue Mountains situated in the southeast. The mountains plunge to the coast in places with many ridges and ravines, waterfalls and rivers. The highest point in the country is the Blue Mountain Peak at a height of 2,256 m (7,402 ft), only 16 km (10 miles) from Kingston.
The island has an abundance of springs, streams and waterfalls; its original Arawak Indian name, ‘Xaymaca’ means ‘land of wood and water’. The primary river is the 71 km (44 miles) long Black River, running through the west of the country. The lowlands, in the northwestern part of the country, have an intriguing limestone plateau with underground caverns and streams known as karst. The karst has an average elevation of 1,500 m (4,921 ft) and covers nearly half of the island’s total area. The highest part of the karst includes deep depressions and sinkholes known as cockpits. Consequently, this area is known as the Cockpit Country. The low-lying coastal region ranges from 8 to 16 km (5 to 10 miles) in width and encircles the island, being widest in the south and the west. Much of the island is rimmed with coral reefs from which the famous white sands of Jamaica are formed.
Jamaica’s luxuriant tropical and subtropical foliage leaves a lasting impression on visitors. Vegetation varies from dense bamboo and hardwood forests such as mahogany, rosewood and ebony in the northeastern and eastern areas, to the wide coastal plains of dry savanna with scattered dwarf trees and cacti in the southwest. Concentrations of banana plantations are found in the valleys, the foothills of the northeastern mountains and along the northeastern coast. Sugarcane plantations occupy most of the level coastal plains, whilst coffee is grown in the mountains. Jamaica has the world’s greatest concentration of fern species, with over 350 of them. Wildlife found on the island includes wild pig, mongoose, lizard, bat and several species of birds.
Health
There are few serious health hazards for the visitor to Jamaica. Sunstroke and sunburn tend to be the most frequent problems. No vaccinations are required unless the visitor is arriving from Asia, Africa, Central and South America, the Dominican Republic, Haiti, Trinidad or Tobago. All drinking water is purified and filtered.
The International Association for Medical Assistance to Travellers (IAMAT) publishes a worldwide directory of English-speaking physicians. Inclusion in the directory means that their qualifications meet the IAMAT standards and they have agreed to treat members for a set fee. There are 30 government-controlled hospitals in Jamaica.
Emergency telephone numbers
Police and Air Rescue is 119
Fire department and ambulance is 110
Hospitals
Kingston: University Hospital at Mona, tel. 1809-9271620
Montego Bay: Cornwall Regional Hospital at Mt. Salem, tel. 1809-9525100
Port Antonio: Port Antonio General Hospital at Naylor's Hill, tel. 1809-9932646
Ocho Rios: St Ann's Bay Hospital, tel. 1809-9722272
Pharmacies
Kingston: Pegasus Hotel, tel. 1809-9263690
Montego Bay: McKenzies's Drug Store, tel. 1809-9522467
Ocho Rios: Great House Pharmacy Brown's Plaza, tel. 1809-9742352
Safety
As in any large city, crime can be a problem in Kingston and so travellers should avoid using overcrowded buses. Use only licensed taxicabs and avoid walking in areas known to have a gang-violence problem (the fringes of downtown Kingston and the neighbourhood west of downtown).
Encouragingly the Jamaican government has initiated a number of schemes to improve security in the major resort areas. These include the deployment of dedicated tourist security staff.
THE makeshift shelter beside the road offered little relief from the blazing heat. It was the stack of green jelly coconuts that prompted me to stop. A man with a Birmingham-made machete nimbly sliced a hole in the top of a coconut, and I drank long and deep. He then halved it and I used a sliver of husk as a spoon to scoop out the jelly. I had fallen out of bed at six that morning. I pulled on shorts and a T-shirt bearing the words “I will survive Jamaica” and ventured out of my cocoon of comfort. It wasn’t long before the sun sapped my energy and sweat, the signature of the tropics, trickled down my back.
Hiring a car in Jamaica almost requires a second mortgage, but travelling by minibus is cheap and colourful, though seldom predictable. You can flag one down by waving your hand, palm down, as if patting an unfamiliar doberman. You may have to wait half an hour or half a day. In such heat, half an hour seems a long time. Half a day is. Locals have a well-exercised resilience and an infectious sense of humour, both are essential in order to survive street-level Jamaica.
I sat next to a softly spoken Rasta. Sammy Soul singer, song-writer and mystic. His eyes were bleary and bloodshot — thanks more to the ganja than lack of sleep. Called the poor man’s friend, ganja has enabled many otherwise unemployed to live comfortably on the proceeds of growing and selling the herb, the country’s largest cash crop. Perhaps as much as 50% of the country's Gross Domestic Product is drug money.
When Sammy asked if I wanted a smoke, he wasn’t offering a Benson & Hedges. By way of explanation, he added: “Sensi, sinsemilla, lamb's bread, collie, bush cotton ... “ After a few miles and a few animated Irie’s, we stopped at his village. Wooden shacks were scattered over the hillside, some clinging to the narrow roads, others along a rough track.
A small hut — little more than a garden shed — houses seven or eight people. At night, two or three children share a single bed or sofa. Miss Pearl in a bright flowery dress was walking up the hill with Miss Sweet, holding a large banana leaf as a sunshade. Later, if the rain came, the leaf would become an umbrella.
We sat in Sammy's yard. He drew hard on a spliff and sang me one of his own compositions: “Ease it up, ease it up, Ease up the pressure. Ease up the pressure Mister Oppressor ...” The words were the meaning, the rhythm the feeling.
On the road an Old Morris Oxford clattered by, held together with string, wire and faith. This remnant of Jamaica’s British period began to fade after independence in 1962, and is now replaced by Nissans, Toyotas and Ladas, dubbed “Life And Death Association” by their Kamikazi drivers.
A crowded country bus optimistically called “Confidence” stopped to squash in more people, produce and me. Then, heaving with pineapples and peppers, the bus undulated its way to market. Weaving through the raucous cacophony of the market, I stepped over little piles of fruit and vegetables that lay on brown paper or rough mats. Green bananas were stacked by the wall, still on their stems. Buckets full of fish in brine sloshed about as someone knocked past them. Large women with knitted woollen hats squatted on old sacks or wooden crates, their gaudy dresses stretched over spread legs. “Come, buy me breadfruit and yam. Yu wan’ pumpkin, pear, banana?” If you smile, the price drops.
Blacks in Jamaica blend in — at first. But when you open your mouth that East End accent immediately puts you in a different category. If you’re white, most people will expect you to stay in the tourist areas, and they’ll expect you to be rich. Just relax into a Caribbean pace of life and your eyes will slowly ease open. This is Jamaica. Cool your heels. Soon come. No problem. Take time. There’s even somewhere called Wait-A-Bit.
I met Hyacinth, a street trader or “higgler”, in the nearby craft market. She was selling wooden carvings, sack-cloth trousers, finely carved black coral jewellry and T-shirts proclaiming “Jamaica — don’t worry, be happy!” She reassured me “As long as you not puffed up, everybody friendly.”
If you race around the island with cameras clicking, you’ll succeed in raising hackles, nurturing headaches and missing the best bits. When taking pictures, a smile and friendly nod is often sufficient to diffuse possible objections. But stick an SLR in someone's face and you’ll invite a torrent of verbal abuse in strident patois that will lose you after the opening “Cum na man. Wa’ ‘appen?” The national language may be English, but you wouldn't know it when the tirade combines several different dialects, delivered in a sing-song lilt. You can guess the meaning of words like “baderation” (worry), “bredda” (brother) and “madda” (mother), but you need to learn words such as “nyam” (food, eat) and “pickney” (child).
I blended into a game of dominoes and watched as the language became more colourful and less comprehensible. The pitch crescendoed to an explosive outburst, which dissolved into laughter and back-slapping. In the background Bob Marley still throbbed and wailed from a side alley. Gone, but not forgotten.
I paused at a patty shop to watch a young man at work. He took a grubby red handkerchief from his back pocket and wiped the glistening beads of sweat from his face. He had just painted a large wardrobe with bright red, green and gold stripes. Then he cut a great circular hole in one side, and it slowly dawned on me ... this wardrobe had outlived its use for clothes storage, and was being transformed into an ear-splitting speaker. “Delroy’s Jah Love Sound System” would soon be broadcasting mega-decibels of soul and reggae throughout the neighbourhood.
Jamaica can fulfill the expectations of the inquisitive traveller and packaged tourist. Independent travellers should not scoff too loudly at package tours. A flight-only deal with one of the mega operators may work out much cheaper than a Super APEX fare on a scheduled airline.
Large companies also have the negotiating muscle to secure more favourable rates at hotels, guest houses and self-catering apartments. In the last 20 years Jamaica has become increasingly adept at handling tourism. The larger, all-inclusive hotels have proved extremely popular — especially with Americans who view the Caribbean in much the same way as the Brits view the Med. All-in packages at extravagant resorts such as Sandals cover all your food, drinks, sports and entertainment. One of Sandals’ five complexes has transformed nine acres of Negril, encompassing the area's first hotel, the Sundowner, opened in 1965.
Nick Hanna, author of The BMW Tropical Beach Handbook, puts Negril No. 10 on his world's best beaches list. He describes Negril as “more of an experience than a beach ... seven miles of sybaritic indulgence”.
It’s the best place I know to collapse at the end of a hot day, rum and Coke in one hand, dripping mango in the other, and listen to distant music sifting through the balmy evening air, mingling with the nightly choir of cicadas and tree frogs. As the horizon eclipses the sun you close your eyes and let the lure of Jamaica seep into your blood along with the rum, the reggae and your resolve to return. |
