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THE CARIBBEAN archipelago offers the whole range of stereotypical images of tropical paradise — soft white sands, crystal-clear turqouise waters, lush rainforest, balmy weather and a laconic way of life. Idyllic as those images are, however, it is the regional characteristics that give the Caribbean its vibrancy.
Music creates much of the Caribbean atmosphere. Who can say they haven’t been positively affected by the improvised lyrics of a calypso or the “summer feel” of a rhythmic steel band’s beat. Add the worldwide exports or reggae, soca, latin jazz, rumba and their derivatives, and the Caribbean’s musical heritage is very rich indeed.
Although the region includes the Bahamas, Cuba, Haiti, Dominican Republic, Puerto Rico and the Virgin Islands, it is to the West Indian islands of the Lesser Antilles in the eastern Caribbean that most people travel.
The West Indies are justifiably famous for their beauty and hospitality, but are particularly synonymous with cricket. The sport is interwoven in the social fabric of Eastern Caribbean, the style of play reflecting the party way of life. There is a reason why a succession of West Indian teams have been known as the “Calypso Kings”.
No matter what the Caribbean destination, it is easy to get there (except to Cuba from the US for political reasons). The easiest approach to the Caribbean is on a package trip — either beach holidays or cruises — but, great value as many of the tours are, independent travel arrangements aren’t much harder to make and visitors soon become immersed in the local way of life as they use the public transport systems.
There are plenty of direct flights to the region from Britain. British Airways and British West Indian Airways are the two major direct carriers, although many more airlines fly via the mainland Americas.
Cuba is accessible direct on the scheduled Cubana flight from London Stansted to Havana. Although it may not reach Havana on time, the flight is better than the bad old days of Russian jets that refuelled in Newfoundland on the way out, Madrid on the way back. There are no “official” flights to Cuba from the US because of the US government’s puerile trade embargo on the communist nation. It is possible (but difficult), however, to catch “ghost” flights from Miami. The Americans go to considerable lengths to pretend these flights don’t exist — they are neither listed on timetables nor departure boards.
However, only Cubans, US citizens and journalists are carried — just hope that fake International Press Card you bought on Kao San Road, Bangkok, is convincing. Furthermore, you'll need a visa to enter the US as Cuban departures don't qualify for the waiver scheme.
Of course, flying isn’t the sole option as Geest Line sails its banana boats to the Eastern Caribbean islands. However, at more than £1500 one way, it is a very expensive way of arriving. Not only that, but why spend two weeks tanning aboard a container ship in mid-Atlantic when the gorgeous white Caribbean beaches are available. Getting around is no more difficult than in any other tropical paradise — there are planes and trains and automobiles, but, befitting a disparate group of islands, it is the ferry schedules that are essential to travellers’ plans.
There is a plethora of ferries and passenger-carrying cargo ships plying the inter-island routes. At times, travellers may find themselves waiting for a boat, but, hey, this is the laidback Caribbean. Schedules are comprehensive and easily accessible upon arrival.
Ferries aren’t, however, the only maritime travel option. The Caribbean is one of the world’s prime yachting locations and travellers wishing to hitch shouldn't experience too much difficulty, particularly if moving in a north-south direction (travelling with the prevailing winds).
Local yacht clubs always have general notice boards where adverts for crew or passengers can be found. Travellers can add their own messages should nothing be advertised. Nearby bars and restaurants are also good places to make a yachting contact or two.
Extensive travel in the Caribbean will almost certainly include airflights. Cuba is connected to the Dominican Republic, Jamaica and the Bahamas by AeroCaribbean, the Cuban charterflight company. Onward flights to the rest of the Caribbean are operated by a range of airlines, most commonly by LIAT (see below).
Once on terra firma, the transport systems are similar to elsewhere in the world, although ex-Asian travellers will notice definite similarities in the definition of the word “bus”. Buses are commonly minivans originally designed to seat six, although some islands have full-sized vehicles while others have pick-up’s with two benches attached to the back (similar to Indonesian bemos). Whatever the vehicle, it’s guaranteed to careen around at improbable speeds while carrying far more passengers than the designers ever dreamt it could.
Cars and bikes are easily rented on most islands, while shanks’ pony is, as always, the best, most relaxed option to see the country at ground level.
WHAT YOU NEED TO KNOW
VISAS AND CURRENCY
BAHAMAS:
No visa is neccessary for Commonwealth citizens. The currency is the Bahamian dollar, pegged to the US dollar.
CUBA:
Tourist Cards for stays of longer than 72 hours cost £14 and are normally issued by the travel agent. No photographs are needed. It is officially illegal for Americans to visit Cuba, although some may visit legally Cuba (eg. journalists with a long standing interest). The Cuban currency is the peso, currently exchangable at 1.55 to £1. In reality, the only currency tourists will spend in Cuba is the US dollar. DOMINICAN REPUBLIC:
UK citizens don't need a visa, but Australians, New Zealanders and South Africans must pay $10 for a tourist card, available on arrival. Currency is the peso, exchanged at 19-20 to a pound.
EASTERN CARIBBEAN:
Most islands require just a valid passport, although the requirements do vary from island to island. You should check before you go. Trinidad & Tobago, for example, requires Aussies, Kiwis and South Africans to purchase visas. There are several currencies, the East Caribbean dollar (pegged at EC$2.70 to US$1), the French franc in ex-French colonies and the Netherlands Antilles guilders in Saba, St Eustatius and Dutch St Martin, The Barbados dollar is pegged at B$1.98 to the US$1 and the Trinidad & Tobago dollar is around T&T$5.5 to US$1.
JAMAICA:
No visas are needed, although the situation does change occasionally. Currency is the Jamaican dollar, exchangable at around 30 to a pound.
PUERTO RICO:
Non-US citizens need a US visa or visa waiver. The currency is the US dollar, known locally as a peso.
VIRGIN ISLANDS:
Entry to the US Virgin Islands requires a US visa or visa waiver. A valid passport is all that is neccessary to visit the UK Virgin Islands. Both island groups require proof of an onward ticket on arrival. The currency in both is the US dollar.
GETTING AROUND
Leeward Islands Air Transport, owned by a dozen governments of the Caribbean operates a bewildering array of excursion fares and airpasses on its flights.
The Three Island Pass costs £135 and provides coupons for three flights — Caracas and Georgetown cannot be used — within 21 days, while the Multi-Explorer Pass covers 28 islands for £245. The Multi-Explorer Pass must be used within 30 days.
Windward Lines Ltd operates a 55 metre passenger/cargo boat service between St Lucia, Barbados, St Vincent, Trinidad & Tobago and Venezuela.
Booking agents include Windward Agencies, 7 James Fort, Hincks Street, Bridgetown, Barbados (Tel: 809-431 0449; fax 809-431 0452), and Global Steamships, Mariners Club, Wrightson Road, Port of Spain, Trinidad (809-624 2279; 809-456 2619).
Hitching a yacht ride is possible throughout the region. Among the many clubs where rides are commonly found are those at Varadero and Cayo Largo, Cuba, English Harbour in Antigua and the Royal Jamaican Yacht Club at Kingston.
10 TOP CARIBBEAN FESTIVALS
BOB MARLEY BIRTHDAY BASH:
Jamaica, Februrary 6. Now a national holiday, this four-day party is a festival of the best Jamaican reggae.
CARNIVAL:
Celebrated with gusto throughout the Caribbean. Traditionally a pre-lent festival, Carnivals now take place throughout the year on one island or another.
CROP-OVER FESTIVAL:
Barbados, mid-July. Three-week carnival-like celebration ending on the first Monday of August.
ERNEST HEMMINGWAY MARLIN FISHING TOURNAMENT:
Havana, Cuba, mid-May.
FETE DES CUISINIERES:
Guadeloupe, early August. Held in honour of female cooks.
LATIN AMERICAN FILM FESTIVAL:
Cuba, December.
MARTINQUE JAZZ FESTIVAL, GUITAR FESTIVAL:
Martinique, December. Alternating week-long festivals. The jazz festival takes place on odd-numbered years, the guitar festival on even-numbered years.
RED STRIPE CUP:
January-March. The Caribbean inter-island cricket championship. Not quite a festival, but a season of boisterous days with the Caribbeans at play in the stands. Cricket is a particularly serious business in the West Indies.
ST PATRICK'S DAY:
March 17. Celebrated in Monserrat, with its unique Irish influences. TOUR DE LA GUADELOUPE:
Guadeloupe, early August. Ten-day cycling race around the island.
SAMPLE AIRFARES
London-Miami-Nassau, Bahamas. Virgin/Bahamasair: from £327 +£47 tax. Stopovers up to seven days are available in Miami.
London-Havana, Cuba. Cubana: from £358 + £10 tax. Iberia: from £577 + £10 tax.
London-New York or Chicago-Kingston, Jamaica. American Airlines: from £402 + £32 tax. Stopovers available in New York or Chicago for £55.
London-Kingston or Montego Bay, Jamaica. British Airways: from £484 + £10 tax. Flights must be booked within 45 days of departure.
London-Fort de France, Martinique, or Pointe a Pitre, Guadeloupe. Air France: from £473 + £15.60 tax.
Fares provided courtesy of The Travel Bug, 125a Gloucester Road, London, SW7. |