Saba is a small island, 5 square miles, included in the Dutch Windward West Indes. There are two ways to get there if you cannot swim the 14 miles to Stacia (Saint Eustatius), it's closest neighbor; sail or fly. Flying involves landing on a dot of a runway shorter than most aircraft carriers with jagged cliffs and water on both sides. On my venture I opted for sail power.

Once there, you drop anchor at the dock (Fort Bay), there is only one, and hire a taxi to get you into one of three towns. There is also the settlement of St. Johns and there is a dive center and gas station at Fort Bay but neither seem to classify as an actual town. The first of the towns is The Bottom. The Bottom is a long way up! For those who are always up for a good hike I don't recommend it. Save your energy for the many trails leading from the road or the half day, 1,064 stone and concrete step hike from Windwardside to the summit of Mt. Scenery.

The Bottom is where white gingerbread-laden, red roofed state houses, and the Lieutenant-governor's house are located. It is also a goat's dream... lush green foliage and just craggy enough to turn a walk to the post office into an aerobic work-out. Old men congregate outside the town shop discussing who-knows-what in their native tongue and I get carried away taking pictures of the goats. With the constant steep hills, they seem to be Saba's answer to John Deer. There is a delightful little park, Wilhelmina, that is perfect for an afternoon ciesta and a good book.

Though ropes and rock have never bothered me the drive from the Bottom to Windwardside did. It twists and hairpins up another umpteen-hundred feet with a sheer drop always on one side and often on both. Somehow, a rope makes me feel secure... cars very seldom do and drivers less often than that. If roller coasters are your thing, this island has added value for your dollar! I prefer a natural thrill.

From Windwardside you begin your trip up to the top of Mt. Scenery. You start out in a lush tropical garden setting. Fruit laden palms spring out at you from trail side. A drone of insects hums you along, almost pushing you up each step. The guide book lets you know there are 1,064 steps. I only counted four! After that the scenery took my attention away. By the time I reached the top, I had passed through a dense tropical rainforest, and a fern forest. Orchids in vivid pink, purple and orange almost crowded each other to get my attention. I was also beginning to think that they had underestimated the amount of steps by half. What I didn't drink in on the way to the top I relished on the way down.

Having spent about three hours on the hike, I had just enough time to clamber back into the now dreaded Moke for the ride to Hell's Gate. Again, we raced up, down, and around. Up one last hill, Hell's Gate Hill to be precise, and we stopped at the Holy Rosary Church. It's a beautiful medieval stone building. I was quite surprised to find that it was actually built in 1962. Behind the church is the Community Center where the ladies of the village sell there wares. Their wares include batik cloth, Saba Lace adorned table cloths, blouses, handkerchiefs, etc. and Saba Spice, a rum based liquor. After taking but one sip of Saba spice I decided that it was the ambrosia of the West Indies and inquired as to its origin.

When settlers first inhabited the island their ships would dock in the deep harbor where we had. It was before The Road, which wasn't finished until the early 1960's, and their only way on to the island was to hoist supplies up on ropes and climb 900 steps up the rugged cliffs. The airport wasn't even started until 1963. Needless to say, supplies came in a large quantity at once and then not for months. Barrels and barrels of 151 proof rum were among the stores. At the time it was considered un-lady-like to drink straight rum and so the women of the island disguised it using native and imported spices, giving it the name Saba spice they were more than welcome to have a nip, or a little more.

Watch out! It goes down warm and smooth. Each lady has her own table and her own recipe. Each will offer you a "small" sample. When you leave the building the sun will be brighter and the roads either less or more scary depending on what libation does to your perception. As it were I was able to laugh, and talk waving my hands freely as we zipped back to our ship. After all... I had been to Hell's Gate, had sampled its fruit and was enchanted with what she offered.