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Although the country of Kenya is very young, its inhabitants have a very long history dating back possibly 2 million years. Visitors from all parts of the world are attracted here due to both the fantastic scenery and the varied wildlife. Among the creatures to be seen in Kenyan sanctuaries are rhino, Lion, leopard, buffalo, antelope and many more. Photographic safaris, well organized and with excellent itineraries have replaced hunting safaris which have ben banned for many years. Kenya enjoys a good level of prosperity and social harmony.
Kenya covers an area of 582,650 km², about the same size as France. It is bordered by Tanzania, Uganda, Sudan, Ethiopia, Somalia and the Indian Ocean. With its magnificent wildlife, mountains, national parks and coastline of superb beaches, Kenya is one of the most popular destinations in East Africa. Mountaineering, walking and going on safari are favoured pursuits. Coral reefs along the coast and around the islands are ideal for scuba diving and deep-sea fishing.
Kenya is a country of diversity; from the bustling African capital of Nairobi, the vibrant blending of Africa, Arabia and Asia that is Mombasa, to the sleepy archipelago of Lamu, with its strong Arabic influences. The diversity is also reflected in the geography of the country. A narrow, tropical coastal belt rises gradually to the eastern plateau and then sharply to the plateau of the Central Rift Highland which is split by the Great Rift Valley. The Rift Valley produces fresh water and soda lakes which attract a wealth of wildlife and birdlife. All types of terrain, glaciers on Mt Kenya, arid desert, mountain massifs, rich savanna, large lakes and dense forest, can be found.
Variations in altitude and climate are extreme. Upcountry, the climate is temperate with long, sun-filled days, the coastline is hot and humid, and parts of the northern interior are arid.
The country has a population of approximately 28 million people and over seventy tribal groups with minorities of Asian and Europeans. English and Swahili (Kiswahili) are Kenya’s official languages and are taught in schools. There are many other major and minor tribal languages. English is fairly widely spoken and understood but some knowledge of Swahili would be extremely useful to the visitor.
Capital: Nairobi
Population: 31,100,000
Area: 224, 211 square miles
Language: Swahili. English is widely spoken
Time: +7 hours from New York
Electricity: 220/240 Volts AC, 50 Hz
Geography: The north is almost all arid desert. The east is in the lowlands which is very fertile and excellent for farming. The south is largely made up of savannah. In the west the highlands is good for some farming and the area around Lake Victoria in the far west is very fertile land as in the east along the coast. To the north, Kenya is bordered by Ethiopia, in the east is Somalia and the Indian Ocean. To the west is Tanzania, Lake Victoria and Uganda.
Kisumu - Located on Lake Victoria, the town is the third largest city on Kenya. The city has a good museum called the Kisumu Museum. There is a ferry here which sails across Lake Victoria to the port of Mwanza in Tanzania.
Lamu - Located on the Indian Ocean, Lamu is the oldest continuous settlement in Kenya. The population is almost entirely Muslim and has maintained the same face for hundreds of centuries with most roads only wide enough to accommodate donkeys and people on foot. As fast as times have changed here so is the pace of life. It is still the custom here for men to wear "khanzus" which is the full length white robes.
Malindi - The town is a significant Swahili settlement which dates back to the 14th century. Malindi is now developing as a tourist destination with excellent beaches.
Mombasa - Nearly half of the population is Muslim here and so you will find the city with over 60 mosques. The oldest mosque was built in 1570 and is found in the Old Town where you will easily find black veiled women walking through the narrow, winding streets. For the last 200 years 'dhow' boats have arrived in the old harbor from points in the Persian Gulf carried on the winds of the northeast monsoon. Their cargo is salt, limes, dates, carpets and ghee. In town is historic Fort Jesus which was built in 1593 by the Portuguese.
Nairobi - In contrast to Mombasa, Nairobi is a very modern city and provides facilities for making Nairobi and excellent center for touring. Just outside of town is the National Museum which is well known for is displays of animal displays, African weapons and ceremonial headdresses. Next door is Snake Park where the visitor can see number of African snakes that they would never want to meet in the wild. The Railway Museum is not in good shape but for enthusiasts may be of some interest. The Kenyatta Conference Center is a major landmark here and the center of a lot of activity from foreign visitors.
The North Coast
Stretching from Malindi in the south to the Somali border in the northeast, the tropical northern coastal strip is hot and humid all year round although relief is brought by coastal sea breezes. Temperatures range from 22 to 30 °C (72 to 86 °F). Mangroves grow profusely in the northern coastal area and marine life is abundant in the coral reefs and marine national parks. The population is largely Swahili with a strong Muslim influence.
The coast line is studded with islands, the largest of which is Lamu. Taking a dhow trip around the islands is an idyllic way of spending a few days. Popular islands to visit are Manda with the Takwa ruins, the remains of an old Swahili city; Paté, once a powerful Swahili city-state with the Nabahani ruins; and Kiwayu island which is included in the Kiunga National Marine Reserve. The coral reefs of Watamu, 24 km (15 miles) south of Malindi, is a good spot for scuba diving and the town is much less developed than Malindi.
Malindi is a popular destination for travellers, with many resort hotels in the area. The town has good nightlife and sporting facilities. The town has some interesting relics, including a pillar erected by Vasco da Gama as a navigational aid and the remains of the Portuguese church which St Francis Xavier visited on his way to India. The town’s main attraction is the Mlindi National Marine Park featuring snorkelling in the coral reef off a glass-bottomed boat. Scuba diving and deep-sea fishing trips are some of the activities offered in Malindi.
Lamu, an island in the Indian Ocean off the coast of Kenya, has a distinctive Swahili character, with its East African, Omani, Indian, Portuguese and Victorian influences. The town of Lamu is picturesque with whitewashed stone houses with makuti (thatch) roofs, narrow, winding streets and dhows in the harbour. It was a popular bohemian resort in the early 70s and still attracts a large number of visitors. The island is predominantly Muslim and the influence is apparent in the dress and customs of the local people.
The village of Shela, which is a forty-minute walk from Lamu, has a beautiful beach. Swahili culture can be explored at the Lamu Museum and the Swahili House Museum. The Lamu Fort, built by the Sultan of Paté between 1810 and 1823, now houses a natural history museum, a library and an aquarium. The Donkey Sanctuary is on the waterfront. It is run by the International Donkey Protection Trust and cares for abused and worn-out donkeys.
The Rift Valley
The Eastern Rift Valley system (also known as the Central Rift) extends for more than 5,000 km (3,107 miles). Narrow strips of the earth’s crust have sunk, leaving valleys with extinct volcanoes and a series of lakes along the floor. These lakes include Naivasha, Magadi, Nakuru, Borgoria and Baringo. The force of the earth’s eruption was most powerful in the 160 km (99 miles) that run north from Nairobi and it is here that the valley is at its deepest. Its floor rises to over 2,000 m (6,562 ft) at Lake Naivasha. The relief includes plains, deep valleys and mountains.
The Aberdare range forms the eastern wall of the Rift Valley and reaches a height of 3,400 m (11,555 ft). This area is home to the Masai, a tall, proud people who retain their traditional dress and culture.
In the Central Rift Valley, the annual mean temperatures are highest in the north at around 16 to about 29 °C (61 to 84 °F) near lakes Nakuru and Naivasha. The Rift Valley floor is dry but the higher areas receive good seasonal rainfall. Vegetation on the floor of the Rift Valley is typical East African savanna and includes aloes, acacias (thorn trees), and flame trees, as well as the invading prickly pear cactus. Gazelle, zebra, baboon, cheetah and leopard can be found here. The soda lakes, such as Nakuru, Elmentetia, and Magadi, with their abundant supply of food, attract a wealth of water birds. Lake Naivasha and Baringo, freshwater lakes, accommodate an incredible variety of bird, fish and plant life.
The Rift Valley offers visitors some superb walking and sightseeing opportunities, excellent scenery and wildlife. Mt Kenya and Mt Longonot offer a challenge to mountaineers. Naivasha is a small town through which most travellers pass when visiting Mt Longonot, Lake Navaisha in Hell’s Gate National Park. Nakuru is the other major town in the area and is conveniently placed for visits to the Hyrax Hill Prehistoric Site, and the Menengai Crater, an extinct 2,490 m (8,169 ft) high volcano with a 483 m (1,585 ft) deep crater.
Nairobi & Environs
Nairobi and environs, situated in south-central Kenya at a high altitude, enjoy a pleasant climate with minimum and maximum temperatures of around 12 to 28 °C (54 to 82 °F). The area experiences two rainfall seasons; March to May are the ‘long rains’ and October to December are the ‘short rains’. Nairobi is a modern, cosmopolitan city of around one million people. It has grown from being the halfway point on the Mombasa to Uganda railway to being one of the largest cities in Africa. It has a wealth of restaurants, cafés and bars, as well as bookshops, cinemas and efficient banking and postal services.
On Museum Road is the Kenya National Museum with its exhibition of Joy Adamson’s painting of tribal people and a display of the culture, crafts and history of the Swahili people. There is a snake park adjacent to the museum with examples of most of the snake species found in East Africa, as well as other reptiles such as crocodiles and tortoises.
The National Archives has exhibitions of photographs, paintings and handicrafts. The Railway Museum on Station Road houses the history of Kenya’s railways, as well as the fascinating tale of the man-eating lion of Kima that preyed on some twenty-eight railway workers. For a bird’s eye view of Nairobi visit the Kenyatta Conference Centre’s viewing level on the twenty-eighth floor. There are club facilities for tennis, squash and cricket as well as swimming pools at most of the international hotels.
At the Nairobi National Park rhinos, gazelle, lions, zebras, giraffes, buffaloes, cheetahs and leopards can be seen only a few kilometres from the city centre.
The Langaa Giraffe Centre offers the novelty of feeding the giraffes at eye level from a raised circular wooden structure.
The Karen Blixen Museum was formerly the farmhouse residence of the author of Out of Africa. It is situated on Karen Road and is a forty-minute drive by bus from Nairobi.
Western Kenya
This area includes the northeastern part of Lake Victoria and features Mt Elgon National Park. It is an area of green, rolling hills and is the tea-growing region of Kenya as well as the general agricultural centre. Mt Elgon and the Cherangani Hills offer good hiking and climbing opportunities.
The area around the Cherangani Hills is good farming land. In the north is the lush forest of Kakamega. The Luo people, the third largest ethnic group in Kenya, and the Kipsigis people inhabit this area.
Kisumu is a port on Lake Victoria and the capital of the region. It has a good market and a museum featuring a traditional Luo homestead, as well as objects used in everyday life by the indigenous people of this region.
This area of the country is relatively hot and humid when compared with Nairobi and experiences short afternoon showers almost every day of the year. The main towns are Kisii, Kitale, which is a good base from which to explore Mt Elgon and the Saiwa Swamp National Park, and Eldoret. Kiricho is the centre of the tea-growing area.
The North
The North is the largest region in Kenya and the tribes that live there have retained their traditional ways of life. The tribes include the Turkana, Samburu and El-Molo. Lake Turkana, previously known as Lake Rudolf, is the region’s most outstanding geographical feature, being the largest of Kenya’s Rift Valley lakes. It stretches 250 km (155 miles) from the Ethiopian border through Kenya’s arid northern region of volcanic mountain ranges and scrub desert with the ubiquitous acacia trees. Contrastingly, within these deserts one finds areas of lush vegetation and forested mountains. The climate is also extreme, temperatures can reach 50 °C (122 °F) in the desert areas and the evenings can bring intense thunderstorms.
The area has been dubbed the ‘cradle of mankind’ since Leaky made revelatory fossil discoveries. Animals that are particular to this region include, Grevy’s zebra and the reticulated giraffe, which can be found in Samrur and Marsabit. The Nile crocodile is quite a menace along riverbanks and herds of domestic camels are found in the desert areas.
The main towns are Lodwar, Maralal, Lodwar, Marsabit. National parks in this region include the Sibiloi, Marsabit, Maralal, Smaburu, Buffalo Springs, Shaba, Meru and Saiwa Swamp. As there is little public transport in this region, it is advisable to travel in a four-wheel drive vehicle or take part in an organised safari.
The South Coast
The south coast encompasses the area between the Tanzanian border and Malindi. The tropical southern coastal strip is hot and humid all year round, although relief is brought by coastal sea breezes. Temperatures range from 22 to 30 °C (72 to 86 °F). The main towns are Mombasa and Kilifi. The people on the coast are mainly Swahili and there are strong Arab-Muslim influences, particularly at the ports. The area has many beaches and snorkelling and diving opportunities.
Near the Tanzanian border is Shimoni, at the end of a small peninsula. Wasini Island, just off the peninsula, is a relaxed, unspoiled place with no roads, cars or running water. The Kisite Marine National Park. Leopards, elephants and the sable antelope can be spotted at Shimba Hills National Reserve near Mombasa, while a wide variety of flora and fauna can be seen on the Bamburi Quarry Nature Trail.
Mombasa is Kenya’s main port. It is a lively town with an interesting history and plenty of sightseeing possibilities. There is a population of about half a million people, mostly African with about 30% Asian and a small minority of Europeans. Most of Mombasa is on Mombasa Island which is linked to the mainland by an artificial causeway. The two most popular beaches are Diani and Tiwi. Tiwi Beach is the quieter and less developed of the two, Diani has many resort hotels and caters for the package-tourist, as does Shelly Beach. Fort Jesus, which dates back to 1593, and the Old Town are interesting places to visit. A dhow cruise and a visit to Bamburi Nature Park are some of the highlights of a visit to Mombasa.
Kilifi is a small town north of Mombasa, situated on the banks of Kilifi Creek. It features the Mnarani Ruins, a Swahili city-state which existed from the end of the fourteenth century to the beginning of the seventeenth century, when it was destroyed by the Galla tribe. The ruins include a Great Mosque, a small mosque, a well, parts of the town wall and a gate.
The Central Highlands
The Central Highlands is an extremely fertile area of Kenya and intensely cultivated with maize, wheat, barley, tea, flowers, strawberries, vegetables and dairy cattle. The central highlands include the Aberdare Range, reaching heights of over 4,000 m (13,123 ft) and Mt Kenya which has a peak of 5,199 m (17,057 ft). Both areas are situated in national parks. The relief also includes plains and deep valleys.
The climate is pleasant and the area receives good rainfall. This region is home of the Kikuyu and the area is heavily wooded with tracts of short grass. Above the forest is an area where bamboo grows, higher than this is moorland with heath and groundsel, leading to lichens and mosses. The mountain peaks above the forest zone are cold.
Nyeri is one of the main towns in the central highlands and a gateway to the Aberdare National Park. It has a good variety of shops and services. The surrounding area is green and heavily cultivated.
Isiolo is another town with good facilities and is the last town before entering northeastern Kenya. Nearby is Lewa Downs, a rhino and wildlife sanctuary. Other towns that encircle Mt Kenya are Meru, Chogoria and Embu. Nyahururu is the town where Thomson’s Falls is situated. The falls plunge 72 m (236 ft) into a ravine and a dense forest results from the perpetual spray.
Time
Kenya falls into the following time zones:
UCT and GMT + three hours
Central European + two hours
USA Eastern + eight hours
Australian Eastern - eight hours
The entire country falls into one time zone. Being close to the equator the length of days and nights varies little and on average sunrise is at 06:20 and sunset is at 18:40.
Tourist Offices
There is no tourist office in Nairobi, the tourist offices within the country are as follows:
Kenyan Tourist Office
Moin Avenue
Mombasa
Tel. 254-11-311231
Kenyan Tourist Office
Lamu Road
Malindi
Outside Kenya, contact addresses of tourist offices are as follows:
France
Kenya Tourist Office
5 Rue Volney
Paris
75002
Tel. 33-1-260 6688
Germany
Kenya Tourist Office
Hochstrasse 53
6 Frankfurt A M
Tel. 49-69-282552
Sweden
Kenya Tourist Office
Birger Jarlsgatan 37
Stockholm
11145
Tel. 46-8-218300
United Kingdom
Kenya Tourist Office
25 Brook’s Mews (off Davies St)
Mayfair
London
United States of America
Kenya Tourist Office
9100 Wilshire Boulevard
Doheney Plaza Suite 111
Beverly Hills
CA 90121
Visas & Passports
Visitors to Kenya should obtain a visa, the costs for this vary from USD 7.00 to USD 40.00. Nationals of Romania, Rwanda, Sudan, the Republic of Ireland, the Scandinavian countries and most Commonwealth countries are exempt from these requirements but must obtain a free visitor’s pass which is obtainable on arrival and valid for three months. Canada is the exception here and Canadians should obtain a visa before arriving. A departure tax of USD 20.00 is payable for non-residents.
Customs
Duty-free allowances are granted only to persons of 17 years or older. One litre of wine and spirits is permitted, 250 grams (0.5 lb) of cigarettes, cigars, tobacco and snuff, and 1.5 litres (3 pt) of perfume and toilet water.
Pets may be imported with a veterinary’s good health certificate and an import license. A special permit is required for agricultural and horticultural produce.
The importation of firearms, game trophies, drugs and pornographic literature is prohibited.
A refundable Custom’s Bond may be required for bringing in video equipment, radios, tape recorders and musical instruments to ensure that these item are removed from the country at the end of the visitors stay. Bond payments must be made in a strong foreign currency and are refunded on departure when the items are re-exported.
Money
The unit of currency is the Kenyan shilling. Notes are available in denominations of 500, 200, 100, 50, 20 and 10. Coins are available in denominations of 5 and 1 shillings and 50 and 5 cents.
Banks and foreign exchange bureaus are available in most towns. Kenyan shillings can be reconverted into United States dollars (USD) at the airport on departure on presentation of a bank receipt. It is difficult to exchange foreign currency or traveller’s cheques into hard currency.
Major credit cards are accepted at the better hotels, shops and restaurants. It is quite easy to travel through Kenya on a shoestring and equally easy to enjoy an luxurious holiday at one of the game lodges, depending on your budget and requirements. Car hire and safaris can be prohibitively expensive. Beer ordered in bars in expensive hotels can also be very costly as there are no price controls on beer.
Business Hours
Banking hours are from 09:00 to 14:00 from Monday to Friday. In some cases, the banks are open betwe en 09:00 and 13:00 on the first and last Saturday of the month, and in Nairobi and Mombasa certain branches stay open until 16:30 Monday to Saturday. The bank at the International Airport is available twenty-four hours a day. The larger hotels may provide foreign exchange services but their rates are not as good as the banks.
Transport
Air
Entebbe Airport, 40 km from Nairobi, is the major international airport, although Mombasa is frequently used for charter flights from Europe. There is also a medium sized airport at Kisumu. An airport departure tax of USD 20.00 is payable in foreign currency for international flights. Only cash is accepted for this. The national carrier is Kenya Airways which flies to the main centres of Nairobi, Mombasa, Kisumu and Malindi. A number of private airlines operate light aircraft between Nairobi and Mombasa, Kisumu, Nanyuki, Nyeri, Malindi, Lamu and the Amboseli, Masai Mara and Samburu National Parks.
Train
Kenya has a good network of trains and these are generally more reliable than matatus and buses. The journey from Nairobi to Mombasa is a particularly enjoyable route and runs though the Tsavo National Park.
Local transport networks include a bus network and the very popular matatu network. Matatus are minibus taxis which are notoriously dangerous to ride in but very cheap.
Road
Road conditions in Kenya are variable, they are excellent in the southwestern part of the country but poor in the north and northeast of the country. Driving is on the left hand side of the road and speedlimits are generally 50 km (31 miles) per hour in towns and 100 km (62 miles) for private cars on highways (80 km/50 miles for public service vehicles). Car hire is expensive and a four-wheel drive vehicle is usually advisable, depending on the area to which you will be travelling.
A carnet de passage is required to bring your own vehicle into Kenya, otherwise a one-week permit is available at the border and the appropriate permit must be obtained in Nairobi. It is usual to obtain police permission when driving on certain routes in northeast Kenya. Visitors intending to travel in their own vehicles should note that foreign-registered vehicles are not permitted into Kenyan game parks and reserves.
Ferry
There are ferries on Lake Victoria linking Kisumu with other Kenyan ports but there are no international links with Tanzania or Uganda.
Public Holidays
Kenya has 10 public holidays.
Peak Seasons
The best time to visit Kenya is during the months of January and February, as the weather is hot and dry and the animal and birdlife more easily spotted. The period from June to September is cooler but still dry and the time of the annual wildebeest migration. The quietest time to visit is during the long rains (March to May) and the short rains (October to December).
Post & Telecommunications
Kenya has a reliable postal system and letters take about fourteen days to reach the United States and incoming letters take about a week to reach Nairobi. Parcel post by surface is also reliable but takes up to eighteen weeks to arrive. To post an airmail letter to Europe costs USD 0.30 and to the United States, USD 0.40. A post restante service is available in Nairobi and in most towns.
It is possible to make phone calls from most post offices. Phonecard are sometimes available at the Nairobi Extelcoms office and at the Kenyatta Conference Centre. Phonecard-operated phones is available in Nairobi, Mombasa, Malindi., Lamu and Kisumu; usually located in the main post office.
Public phone boxes are available in every town and local calls cost KSH 2.00. The country code for Kenya is 254.
Electricity
Voltage in Kenya is 220-240, 50 cycle AC. Either two-pin round or three-pin triangular plugs are used. An adapter should be used for appliances operating on 110-120 volts, 60 cycle AC. The larger hotels and lodges can usually provide a suitable adapter.
Disabled Travellers
Facilities for physically disabled people are not advanced; the best option would be to contact tour operators and the larger hotels which may be appropriately equipped.
Budget Travel
Reasonably priced accommodation is available for backpackers and transport is reliable and inexpensive.
History
Evidence of the origins of human beings has been discovered in the area now known as Kenya and Tanzania. Consequently, East Africa has become known as the ‘cradle of mankind’. At Lake Turkana, Kenya, Richard Leaky discovered important fossils which dated the early hominids back to three million years ago.
It seems that approximately 10,000 years ago, a number of distinct groups had developed in the area, including the hunter-gatherers of the plains and the forest dwellers. Around 6,000 BC, the Hamites from the north moved down, subsumed these groups and developed into the modern inhabitants of East Africa, which include the Hamites, Bantu and Nilotes.
Arabian traders were visiting the coast by the eighth century in order to trade, convert and settle but their intention was not to colonize. There is also evidence of Indonesians, Chinese and Indians visiting the coast.
In 1498, the Portuguese arrived with Vasco da Gama in their quest for the spice trade. Over the next hundred years, they attacked and ravaged most of the cities on the coast. They also built Fort Jesus which fell to the Arabs in 1698. Around this time Omani dynasties established themselves along the East African coast. In 1882, Seyyid Said, Sultan of Oman, sent an army to assert control over the East African dynasties in Mombasa, Paté and Pemba which were ruled by the Mazrui tribe at the time. The Mazruis requested assistance from Britain which resulted in the British flag being raised over Fort Jesus and a protectorate being declared. After three years, control was handed back to Said.
German missionaries, Krapf and Rebmann, began to investigate the hinterland. They were followed by a stream of explorers, some of whom had disastrous encounters with the Masai. In the ‘scramble for Africa’, East Africa was carved up into two spheres of interest by the Anglo German Agreement of 1890. The area that is now Kenya became the East African Protectorate under British rule. The Masai and an agricultural tribe, the Kikuyu, came into conflict with the White settlers who moved into the fertile highlands north of Nairobi.
After World War II, African nationalism became a challenge to the colonial authorities in the form of the Kenya African Union (KAU), first headed by Harry Thuku and eventually by Jomo Kenyatta. The Mau Mau was formed in 1952, consisting mainly of Kikuyu tribespeople. Its objective was to free Kenya of White settlers. From early 1953 to the end of 1956, over 13,500 Africans, mainly Kikuyu warriors, and just over 100 Europeans, about a third of whom were settlers, died in the struggle. Kenyatta was imprisoned as an alleged leader of the Mau Mau but was released in 1959, remaining under house arrest. Kenya gained independence on 12 December 1963 under the leadership of Kenyatta and his Kenya African National Union (KANU), ending seventy-seven years of imperial rule.
Kenyatta inspired confidence in the white farmers and Asian business community. He was also able to unify the main tribal groups, the Kikuyu, Luo and Luyha and, under his rule, Kenya became one of the most stable and prosperous African nations. Kenyatta remained president until his death in 1978. He was succeeded by Daniel arap Moi whose government survived a coup by the Kenyan Airforce in 1982. Kenya had effectively been a one-party state since 1974 but now became a de jure one-party state. During the 1980s, the economy and stability of Kenya deteriorated and the call for a multiparty democratic political system could no longer be silenced. The one-party state amendment was repealed and the first multiparty elections followed in December 1992. The opposition was badly organised and Moi, leader of KANU, was re-elected in the first multiparty elections held in December 1992.
Population
The African people of Kenya account for about 98% of the total population of approximately 25 million. There are over seventy tribes. The largest group is the Bantu who account for about 60% of the population. Bantu tribes include the Kikuyu, Embu, Mbere, Kamba and Tharaka. The Nilotic group constitute some 25% of the population and includes tribes such as the Luo, Kalenjin and Masai . The Cushitic people account for about 5% of the population and include the El-Molo, Somali, Rendille and Galla tribes. The local people living on the coast who have mixed with overseas immigrants are known as the Swahili.
The country also has an Asian community which is very active in commerce, as well as a number of Europeans.
Government
The Republic of Kenya became a multi-party democracy in December 1992. The ruling party is Kenya African National Union (KANU) with its leader, Daniel Troitich arap Moi, president of the country. George Saitoti is the vice president. There is one legislative house, the National Assembly (Bunge), most of whose members are directly elected. The president appoints a vice president and other ministers from the members of the National Assembly and they form the cabinet.
Opposition parties include the Forum for the Restoration of Democracy (FORD)-Kenya with leader Michael Wamalwa; FORD-Asili with leader Kenneth Matiba; and the Democratic Party of Kenya, headed by Mwai Kibaki.
Following a deterioration of Kenya’s economy in the 1980s, the challenge has been for the government to bring Kenya into a stable democracy dealing with the problems of unemployment, a frail economy and growing ethnic tension. There are plans to rewrite the constitution.
The legal system is based on English common law, tribal law and Islamic law.
Language
English and Swahili (Kiswahili) are Kenya’s official languages and are taught in the schools. The majority of Kenya’s Africans fall into one of three major language groups: Bantu speakers, Cushitic speakers or Nilotic speakers. Within these groups are many major and minor tribal languages. Swahili evolved along the coast and has elements of local Bantu languages, Arabic, Persian, Portuguese, Hindi and English. It is the language used for local trade.
A knowledge of Swahili is useful in remote parts of the country and outside urban areas as it will enable communication with people who do not speak English. Sheng is an evolving patois spoken mainly by younger people. It is a mixture of Swahili, English, some Hindi, Gujurati, Kikuyu and various indigenous tribal languages.
Religion
Christianity is the most widespread religion, comprising about 60% of the population. The largest sects are Roman Catholic, Anglican and other Protestant churches but most other Christian sects are represented, as well as a variety of African Christian sects, some radical, and many of which combine traditional beliefs with their own interpretation of the Bible.
Islam is followed by about 20% of the population, the Sunni branch being the largest, followed by the Shia group and the Ismailis. The Indian influence on the country is apparent in the Hindu, Buddhist, Jain and Sikh following. Traditional religions are practised by the remainder of the population.
Art & Culture
Music, dance and oral traditioin play an important role in Kenyan’s social and religious life. The national museum contains collections of wildlife, archaelogical remains and objects of Kenya’s material culture. A national archive has been established as well as a national library service board. The National Theatre is incorporated into the Kenya Cultural Centre. Makonde (ebony carving) is a popular craft.
Food & Drink
Kenya has excellent seafood and a wide range of fruit and vegetables The staple diet is ugali, very stiff maize meal. This is often eaten with a stew of beans or meat. A popular national dish is nyama choma which is barbecued goat.
There are many Asian-run and local-run restaurants serving basic African dishes. Indian restaurants, which are concentrated in Nairobi and Mombasa, are the best option for vegetarians.
Tea and coffee are generally served in a very milky, sweet form. Most brands of soft drinks are available. Beers, such asa Tusker and White Cap, are brewed by Kenya Breweries Ltd. The local moonshine is beer made with bananas or millet, known as pombe.
Shopping
Woven sisal baskets, beaded jewellery, silver, precious stones, soapstone carvings, kikois and khangas (traditional wraparound skirts for women and men) are good buys. It is always worth bargaining, especially at markets.
Parks & Reserves
There are about sixteen national parks and twenty national reserves. The Mountain Club of Kenya is able to provide information on climbing Mt Kenya and Kilimanjaro (tel. 254-2-501747).
- Shimba Hills National Park - set in the hills, just two hours by bus from Mombasa, leopards, elephants and the rare sable antelope can be spotted at the Shimba Hills National Park.
- Mt Kenya National Park - this park encompasses the great Mt Kenya, the second highest peak in Africa. The vegetation is that of Africa’s high equatorial mountains, with bamboo jungle and dense forest giving way to giant species of heather, lobelia and groundsel, followed by moorland and then mosses and lichens. There are a number of routes that can be taken to climb Mt Kenya. The Mt Kenya Circuit takes three to five days. December to March is the best time to visit.
- Aberdare National Park - this park is situated on the slopes of an isolated volcanic massif and offers magnificent views of the Rift Valley. It has two excellent though rather expensive lodges for animal viewing: the Ark and the Treetops. It is less heavily visited than parks such as Masai Mara and offers remarkable flora and fauna, notably the birdlife, in the moorland and dense rainforest of the park. Access is difficult during heavy rains as the roads turn to mud.
- Mt Longonot National Reserve - this reserve is located near Naivasha in the Rift Valley region. It features Mt Longonot which reaches a height of 2,776 m (9,108 ft) from the floor of the valley and has an almost perfect volcanic cone shape with a crater on top. It takes about three hours to climb to the summit and about another three hours to circuit the crater. The scenery and birdlife are well worth the effort.
- Hell’s Gate National Park - situated within walking distance of the south shore of Lake Naivasha, Hell’s Gate National Park has magnificent scenery with sheer cliffs, the Hell’s Gate Gorge and towering pillars of volcanic rock, as well as an abundance of wildlife. Most of the steam that used to pour out of the geysers is now harnessed by the Ol Karia Geothermal Power Station but columns of steam can still be seen rising into the air .
- Lake Nakuru National Park Covering an area of around 200 km² (77 miles²), Lake Nukuru is a shallow soda lake which attracts a host of birdlife, at times hundreds of thousands of flamingoes can be seen. As with most of the East African parks, visitors on foot are not permitted, you must be in a vehicle. The flamingoes migrate when lake conditions are not suitable, so it is advisable to check before visiting if you don’t want to be disappointed. Lake Nakuru is also a black rhino sanctuary and leopards, giraffes, hippos and buffalo are amongst the animals found there.
- Mount Elgon National Park - is famous for the elephants, as well as the antelopes and monkey, that venture deep into the caves in search of the mineral salts that occur in the rocks, although the elephants have been largely decimated by poachers. Mt Elgon itself, is a huge, extinct volcano, situated on the Kenya–Uganda border. It has three main vegetation zones, first mountain rain forest where colubus monkeys, elephants, buffalo, bushbuck and forest hogs can be found. Higher up is the bamboo zone leading into moorlands with small, bright flowers and giant lobelias and groundsel, here the rare suni antelope can be spotted.
- Saiwa Swamp National Park - this small national park is home to the remarkable sitatunga (marshbuck) that has adapted to the swamp terrain and the de Brazza monkeys. The park can only be visited on foot.
- Amboseli National Park - is set against the magnificent backdrop of Kilimanjaro. It is a popular park being conveniently located for Nairobi but consequently suffers from overuse and soil erosion. Amboseli is also home to the Masai people. Elephant, black rhino, buffalo, giraffes and zebras can be seen in the park. Much of the park is hot and dry savanna with acacia dotted throughout.
- Masai Mara Game Reserve - is the most well known of the Kenyan game parks and is a continuation of the Serengeti Plains, with wide open expanses dotted with acacias. Ballooning over the Masai Marai is an exhilarating safari option. Large numbers roam the 320 km² (124 miles²) open grassland dotted with acacia trees. The Mara and Talek Rivers run through it, alongside which are riverine forests. In this reserve one finds elephants, lions, hippos, leopards, cheetahs, zebras, black rhino.
- Tsavo National Park - is Kenya’s largest site, covering over 20,000 km² (7,722 mile²). The park has over sixty mammal species, 400 bird species and over 1,000 species. The Maima Springs, with an underwater viewing chamber, are a feature of the west side of the park. Over twenty million litres of water pass though them everyday from the underground streams of the nearby Chyulu Hills, attracting elephants, hippos, crocodiles, gazelles, zebras and giraffes. Tsavo East, the less visited side of the park, features the Kanderi Swamp which attracts much wildlife.
Climate
The temperature, rainfall and humidity are controlled by altitude. Generally speaking, the lower areas are hot and temperatures fall as elevation increases. Kenya is a land of diverse climatic regions.
The coastal belt and the area around Lake Victoria experience high temperatures and humidity which are moderated by cooling sea breezes. Annual rainfall in the region is between 1,000 and 1,250 mm (40 and 49 in) and average temperatures range from 22 to of 30 °C (71.6 to 86 °F).
In northern and eastern Kenya, average rainfall is low and sporadic and usually accompanied by violent storms. Annual rainfall is between 250 and 500 mm (9.8 and 19.7 in). The driest month is usually July and the wettest, November. Temperature ranges in this arid area are extreme, up to 40 °C (104 °C) during the day in the desert areas, falling to below 20 °C (68 °F) at night.
The central highlands and Rift Valley generally enjoy a warm climate with moderate and reliable rainfall. The exceptions are in the hot and relatively dry central Rift Valley floor and the snowcapped peaks of Mt Kenya. Average annual rainfall is around 800 mm (31.5 in). Highest rainfall usually occurs in April (200 mm/8 in) and lowest in July (20 mm/0.8 in). The rain falls in two seasons: the long rains from March to May and the short rains from October to December.
Western Kenya has a hot and dry climate. Rain falls throughout the year with highest rainfall during April (around 200 mm/8 in) and lowest in January (around 40 mm/1.6 in). Temperatures fall within a minimum and maximum range of 14 to 34 °C (57 to 93 °F).
Health
Comprehensive medical insurance is advisable when travelling in Africa. Visitors arriving from cholera or yellow fever infested countries must produce a valid certificate of innoculation at the border, otherwise the certificate is not mandatory. Malaria is endemic to the hot and humid areas around Mombasa and Lake Victoria. Visitors should consult their pharmacist for antimalarial medication.
Being situated on the equator, visitors should beware of overexposure to the sun which can inflict severe sunburn even on overcast days. Avoid swimming in lakes, rivers or open water reservoirs as there is a danger of parasite infection that causes biharzia. Injections for hepatitis, poliomyelitis and tetanus are required.
Good hospital facilities are available in most towns. Excellent specialist facilities are available in Nairobi and Mombasa. The Kenyatta National Hospital, Hospital Road (off Ngong Road), Nairobi can be contacted on 254-2-3348800 or 254-2-726300; and the Coast General Hospital, Mombasa can be contacted on 254-11-314201.
Safety
Kenya is generally a safe place in which to travel although tourist muggings have been reported in Nairobi, Mombasa and at coastal beaches. It is wise not to carry valuables on your person and to avoid walking alone at night or on deserted beaches or in poorly lit areas. Car hijacking is an increasing problem in Nairobi. Drug penalities are strictly enforced with ten years imprisonment for possession of illegal drugs, including marijuana, and no option of a fine. The penalty for purchasing or selling drugs is twenty years.
In Muslim-dominated areas, such as Lamu, visitors should dress appropriately, which means covering the shoulders, and wearing shirts or pants that reach at least to the knees.
Kenya is in the heart of African safariland. Some of the most famous reserves are found here. Take a trip to them and you’ll probably see everything from rhino to lions, hippos to baboons and wildebest.
HIGHLIGHTS:
- Mount Kenya: second highest peak in Africa.
- National Museum in Nairobi.
- Masai Mara: One of the best game reserves.
- Nairobi National Park.
- Lake Nakuru National Park.
- Lake Borgoria: see the flamingos.
- Kisii: where to go for soapstone sculptures.
CURRENCY:
Kenyan shilling (KSH). It is an offence to export Kenyan currency. You can exchange hard cash and travellers cheques at banks around the country. Take some hard cash (preferably US dollars), the rest in travellers cheques. Credit cards are widely accepted for tourist services (hotels, restaurants, flights, safaris, car hire).
EXCHANGE RATE:
£1 = KSh83.20
FOOD SPECIALITIES:
The national beverage is chai (tea). Milk, water, sugar, tea leaves, served boiling hot. No great national dishes — living standards don’t allow for frills. There is distinctive regional cooking on the coast with main ingredients being rice and fish, flavoured with coconut, tamarind and exotic spices.
LANGUAGE:
Kiswahili and English.
GETTING AROUND:
Air: Internal flights several times a day between Nairobi and Mombasa.
Rail: Trains from Nairobi to Mombasa and to the Ugandan border at Malaba.
Road: Buses and taxis cover all main routes and car hire is an option.
EVENTS:
Easter Safari Rally: from Good Friday to Easter Monday, circles Kenya about three times, Kenyan papers call it “the toughest motor rally in the world”.
Annual Agricultural Shows: put on by the Agricultural Society of Kenya across the country.
Nairobi show usually first week in Oct.
LIVE MUSIC VENUES:
NAIROBI: African Heritage, Kenyatta Ave. 02/333 157, Buffalo Bill’s, Heron Court Hotel, Milimani Rd. 02/720 740, Garden Square Restaurant, City Hall Way. 02/720 425, Foresta Magnetica, Corner House, Kimathi St. 02/728 009.
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