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The first Europeans to set foot on Australia must have been stunned. On the underbelly of the planet, almost everything seems down under. The swans are black, not white; the trees shed their bark, not their leaves; fig trees grow downward, not up; the moon appears upside-down; and kookaburras laugh, not sing. But to the Aboriginal people who had inhabited this continent 100,000 years before the white settlers arrived, natural wonders were even more significant. Spirits carved the canyons and rolling hills of the west—the MacDonnells Ranges were their handiwork—and the trees and wildlife of the eastern rainforests were spirits come to earth in disguise. The Aboriginals believe in “Dreaming,” a strong connection between the earth and its inhabitants. Today, Australians are still strongly tied to their surroundings. The lushness of the coast is personified by the settlements that have sprung up here: Queensland’s shoreline represents some of the most vibrant and beautiful beaches in the world, and south near the crumbling plateaus of the Blue Mountains, Sydney expands with the calm realization that no matter how cosmopolitan it gets, the surrounding mountains—capped with native eucalypts—will always match its splendor. In the south and west, endless expanse keeps Australians humble while encouraging self-sufficience. Northern floods constantly replenish the Top End’s wildlife, and dry season bush fires light the desert sky red to match the earth. Here is the core of Australia, and woven within is an energetic lot of people whose passion for the wild is backed with a fervent sense of kinship. The land has become an integral part of the laid-back lifestyle of Australians; with a backdrop of over 37,000km of beach punctuated by imposing Uluru (Ayers Rock) in the center of it all, what is there to fuss about? The island and its people can sit contently and laugh along with the kookaburra at the down under fate of living the high life.
AUSTRALIA FACTS & FIGURES
Capital: Canberra
Human Population: 18.6 million
Sheep Population: 137 million
Highest Point: Mt. Kosciusko 2229m
Beer Consumption Per Australian: 96L beer/yr. Number of Beaches: about 7000
NO WORRIES, MATE
Australia’s abundant wilderness and unique geography could keep almost any traveler busy for years. Every topography and natural wonder can be explored in Oz, from tropical beaches to deserts, mountains to rainforests. Beachlife in Oz can mean a holiday in the sun with cool drinks and swarms of happy sunbathers or quiet solitude among expansive dunes, natural water springs, rolling hills, and gently lapping waves. Queensland’s Whitehaven Beach in the Whitsunday Islands is a spectacular painting of white sands against turquoise waters. Bondi and Coogee beaches in Sydney are crowded and glamorous, with great sand, waves, and sun. Although Australia is decidedly down under, surf’s definitely up. Lennox Head boasts one of the longest right-hand breaks in the world. Farther south, Vic’s Bell’s Beach in Torquay (see p. 515) hosts the annual Rip Curl Pro Classic and was the site of the final scene in Point Break. Even if you’re the indoor type, spilling your morning coffee isn’t your only chance to wear a wet suit. Whether you’re a seasoned scuba diver or a determined beginner, you’ve probably got “see the Great Barrier Reef” scrawled on your list of things to do in your lifetime. And for good reason—the 2000km reef system, encompassing hundreds of islands and cays and thousands of smaller coral reefs, offers a marine wonderland available to almost everyone. Off Queensland’s coast, the reef is accessible by a number of beaches, and PADI certification courses are offered almost everywhere on the coast. For more experienced divers, Queensland’s northern coast has shipwreck diving near Townsville.
Enclosed within the urban coasts, Australia’s outback contradicts itself. Although geographically confined by the continent’s periphery, it still seems like the most never-ending place on earth. Every year, tourists and Aussies alike take on the never never, hoping to find a little piece of adventure and a lot of piece of mind. In the west, red dust and bushland extend on every horizon. Australia seems to have a national park around every bend, and like Australia’s people, native animals adapt to the peculiarities of the Australian wild: penguins survive in the heat and platypuses represent the best and worst of the animal kingdom to face Queensland’s temperate forests. From Cape York at the tip of the East and down along the coast into Eungella National Park, lush rainforest compliments the nearby reef and coast. National park protection does not humble the natural wonders—instead, it accentuates them. Whales, dolphins, and wildlife still mark the hype behind Monkey Mia, and Tasmania’s World Heritage Wilderness is the small island’s biggest draw. Australians maintain this constant give and take with their habitat partly in order to preserve the individuality of their island.
WHEN TO GO
Australia is big. Really big. When to travel depends on where you’re going and what you’re doing. Most of the country is in a temperate climate zone, with the seasons reversed from those in the Northern Hemisphere. Summer lasts from December to February, autumn from March to May, winter from June to August, and spring from September to November. For the most part, Australian winters are mild, comparable to the southern U.S. or southern Europe; snow is infrequent except in the mountains, but it’s definitely too cold to have much fun at the beach. The north is an entirely different story—many people forget that over one-third of Australia is in the tropics, where it’s always, always hot. Seasons are defined not by the almost-constant temperature but by the wildly varying precipitation. “The Wet” lasts from November to April, and “the Dry” is from May to October. Traveling in the Wet is not recommended for the faint of heart; not only will you be rained on, but unsealed roads tend to get washed out, making driving a huge challenge in non-urban areas. A countervailing consideration is that crowds and prices of everything from flights to hostel bunks tend to be directly proportional to the quality of the weather. If you’re traveling in the high season, start planning your trip and booking accommodations months ahead of time if possible. January and February are rainy months on the Great Barrier Reef; the water is clearest between April and October. Ski season in New South Wales and Victoria runs between June and September, and the famous wildflowers of Western Australia bloom from September to December. Oh, and in case you haven’t heard, the Olympics will be held in Sydney from September to October.
Australia is the world's smallest continent, or its biggest island – depending on how you prefer to look at it. From its barren and harsh outback to its sometimes quaint colonial architecture, and from its Aboriginal place names that slip off the tongue (who can resist repeating Arkarooloo?) to its very British equivalents, it is a land of contrasts.
Australia is its vast outback and desert, untamed landscapes patchworked in shades of burnt copper, shimmering against a relentlessly clear blue sky. It is the wonders of the world's most ancient land: the fascinating geological features of Ayers Rock (Uluru) and the Olgas (Kata Tjuta) are a must for any visitor to the country. Australia is the colourful underworld fantasy of the Great Barrier Reef. It is the big surf, pristine beaches and dramatic mountain ranges for which it is so well known and it is the outdoor life of surfing, bushwalking and countless other sports.
But Australia is not only about the great outdoors. Its largest city Sydney, host to the 2000 Olympics, is renowned as one of the great cities of the world. So, too, is there the lively city life of Melbourne, the old charm of Adelaide and the hospitable warmth of Perth.
So pack your swag, practice your 'Strine' (Australian) and head on down under...
Australian Capital Territory
The Australian Capital Territory (ACT), completely enclosed by New South Wales, is the seat of Australia's capital Canberra. It is no mistake that it is situated between Melbourne (capital of Victoria) and Sydney (capital of New South Wales): when Australia became a federation in 1901, uniting its disparate colonies as states making up Australia, it was diplomatically decided to place the capital city between rivals Sydney and Melbourne. The Australian Capital Territory is a small area of rolling plains and grasslands, substantial portions of which are reserves and national parks.
Canberra, the nation's capital, is a planned city designed by the American architect Walter Burley Griffin. Having developed in this way, it is a very neat and orderly city surrounded by beautiful mountain scenery. The eponymous Lake Burley Griffin forms the focal point of this city and provides plenty of opportunity for boating, though swimming is not advised.
Attractions to see in and around the city are the Australian National Gallery; New Parliament House; Questacon, the National Science and Technology Centre; the National Aquarium; the National Library of Australia; the Australian National Botanic Gardens, the National Film and Sound Archive and the Australian War Memorial. It is worth taking a tour down to the suburb of Yarralumla where the embassies of some 70 countries are housed, some of which have built their embassies in a style particular to the country which they represent.
Queensland
Australia's 'Sunshine State' is a drawcard for numerous travellers from abroad as well as Australians, and not without reason. Its apparently endless stretches of stunning beaches and island paradises fulfil all the clichés that have been written about them: this is about as near to paradise as you can get. The Great Barrier Reef, the largest living organism in the world, with more than 1,000 islands, is the state's (and probably the country continent's) biggest attraction but this is not all that this state has to offer. South of Brisbane is the Gold Coast and to the north of the state is the Sunshine Coast. Parallel to the coast, the Great Dividing Range separates the tropical rainforest coastal areas from the less obvious, but often spectacular, beauty of the interior with its numerous parks. Queensland is Australia's second-largest state, situated on the northeast of the country and bordered by New South Wales to the south, Northern Terrirtory to the west and South Australia to the southwest. The two main cities are Brisbane, the lively capital city, and Cairns but there are numerous small towns from which you can explore the wonders of the coastline. Queensland is known for its stretches of beach and it is the best place in Australia, if not in the world, for diving in the spectacular coral reefs of the Great Barrier Reef. Good surfing is available all along the coastline – so, too, is just about every watersport you could imagine!
Queensland's capital city, and Australia's third-largest city, lies on the banks of the meandering Brisbane River. It is the hub for people in search of sea, sun, and surf but has a charm of its own which makes it worth more than a mere stopover on your way to somewhere else. It boasts the wide-verandah stilt houses typical to Queensland and the region's subtropical climate makes it a pleasant city where you can relax and enjoy the outside restaurants and other outdoor activities.
If your aim in the 'Koala capital' (Queensland's animal emblem is the koala) to see Australia's native koalas then head off to the popular Lone Pine Koala Sanctuary (with over a 100 koalas as well as other Australian animals) or Bunya Park. Also for the nature lovers are the excellent Botanic Gardens and Mt Coot-tha Park. < P> For the more culturally minded there is the City Hall, housing an art gallery, museum and library; the Queensland Cultural Centre, housing the Queensland Museum and Queensland Art Gallery; Newstead House, built in 1846 and the oldest surviving home in Brisbane; and the Miegunyah Folk Museum. Earlystreet Historical Village is a recreation of Queensland life during the colonial times with genuine old buildings in a colonial setting. South Bank Park is the site of Expo 88 and is being developed into a development similar to that of Darling Harbour in Sydney.
Great Barrier Reef
Stretching for about 2,000 km (1,243 miles) along the coast, part of the reef lies only 16 km (10 miles) from the shore while other parts are as far as 241 km (150 miles) from the shore. The Great Barrier Reef, the largest coral formation in the world, is a UNESCO World Heritage site. The underwater scenery of unique plant and animal life is, need one say it, breathtaking, boasting hundreds of varieties of coral, most common of which are the brain corals, mushroom corals, blue corals and organpipe corals. Shellfish, anemones, soft coral and fish live amongst these corals in a kaleidoscope of colour. All of this can be viewed through the glass-bottomed boats or by diving using snorkels or diving gear.
There are some 1,000 islands in the reef, some habitable and others not. Some of the more famous and popular islands include Lizard Island, Orpheus Island, the Whitsunday Islands (Hayman Island, South Molle, Hamilton, Lindeman, Hook, Daydream Island), Great Keppel Island, Dunk Island, Brampton Island, Hitchinbrook Island, Fitzroy Island, Heron Island, Lady Elliott Island, Lady Musgrave Island, Long Island, Magnetic Island and Green Island.
Gold Coast
Queensland's Gold Coast is a 40 km (25 miles) developed and commercialised stretch of beach – a conglomeration of urban areas with highrise buildings and numerous theme parks (including Sea World and Movie World). The Gold Coast stretches from Tweed Heads on the New South Wales border to Paradise Point in the north and includes the popular beaches of Southport, Broadbeach, Mermaid Beach, Miami, Burleigh Heads, Tallebudgera, Currumbin, Tugun, Kirra , Coolangatta and, of course, Surfers Paradise which, with its shopping malls and casinos, epitomises what this popular stretch of coast is all about. There are no shortage of beaches and a lively nightlife can be had in most of the towns/resorts. There are more than 60 golf courses for the golfing enthusiast.
But this region is not all glitz and artifice: the hinterland offers some fine natural features. Nature lovers will enjoy Lamington National Park, known as Australia's largest reserve of subtropical rainforest, and offering some excellent 160 km (99 miles) of walking tracks. Also worth a visit are Tamborine Mountain National Park and Springbrook National Park.
Sunshine Coast
The Sunshine Coast is a chain of sandy beaches stretching from Caloundra to Noosa and incorporating the Glasshouse Mountains (an unusual group of volcanic crags rising abruptly out of the plain to 300 m/984 ft or more), Caloundra, Mooloolaba, Maroochydore, Noosa Heads, Cooloola Beach and, in the hinterland, the Blackall Range. The Glasshouse Mountains provide some excellent opportunities for the accomplished rock climber. The southern area of this coastal strip is fairly builtup but as you go further north it becomes less so.
Victoria
Victoria, the smallest of Australia's mainland states, is the most densely populated and highly industrialised of the states. Its capital, Melbourne, is a cosmopolitan city with a population of over three million. Victoria was part of New South Wales until 1851 when the colony of Victoria became independent of New South Wales. Victoria only really grew when, in the 1850s, gold was discovered and hopeful fortune seekers flocked to the state, doubling the population in the space of a year and with a number of towns growing around the goldfields which include the towns of Ballarat and Bendigo. Labelled the 'Garden State', the state's landscapes include the renowned Great Ocean Road. The state 's varied landscape includes the heights of the final stretch of the Great Dividing Range as well as the plains of the northwest expanses of the state. Victoria's Gippsland region and the rugged Grampians are well worth a visit. The least densely populated area of Victoria: the Mallee provides some fascinating scenery. Activities include wintersports in the Victorian Alps and steamboat rides on the Murray River.
Melbourne
Australia's second city successfully combines the architecture of the 19th century with modern skyscrapers. This metropolitan city lies on the banks of the Yarra River, the south bank of which provides a superb view of the city. It has plent to offer in the way of museums and galleries as well as providing plenty of green areas in the form of parks and gardens.
The state's capital city is home to a diverse mix of people, reflected in the cuisine of the city. Melbourne has numerous foreign restaurants often found in sectionalised districts: Lygon street for Italian, Little Bourke Street for Chinese, Lonsdale Street for Greek, Victoria Street for Vietnamese, Sydney Road for Turkish and Spanish and Acland Street for Central European.
Museums and galleries worth a visit are the Museum of Victoria, the National Gallery of Victoria and the Polly Woodside Maritime Museum. The Victorian Arts Centre, comprising a complex of buildings on the bank of the Yarra River, houses the National Gallery as well as the Theatres building, with the three theatres built below ground, and the Concert hall.
Melbourne is well provided for with green areas. The Royal Botanic Gardens (making up a part of the larger park of King's Domain) have a superb array of plants from many parts of the world these are certainly the best gardens of its type in Australia and, some would argue, in the world. Also worth a visit is the Royal Melbourne Zoological Gardens where the whole range of Australian fauna can be seen in a rather different manner to the conventional approach to zoos: most old cages have been gotten rid of and instead visitors walk through large enclosures simulating the natural habitat of the animals.
Chinatown, developed when Chinese prospectors joined the gold rush in the 1850s, survives as a flourishing Chinese community with an abundance of often excellent Chinese restaurants and supermarkets. You can see the story of Chinese contribution to Australia at the Museum of Chinese Australian History.
Location of the 1956 Olympics, many of the sportsgrounds lying southeast of the city centre were laid out for the Games. Of particular note is the Melbourne Cricket Ground which has a capacity in excess of 100,000 and is the venue of the annual Australian Rules footballl Grand Final, Australia's biggest sporting event, in September.
The Organ Pipes National Park, just outside Melbourne, incorporates its eponymous rock formation: basalt rock columns that have the appearance of organ pipes, formed by lava cooling in an ancient river bed.
The Great Ocean Road
Victoria's Great Ocean Road, starting about 100 km (62 miles) southwest of Melbourne and stretching for some 300 km (186 miles), boasts some of Australia's most magnificent coastal scenery. The road leads past a collection of famous surfing and swimming beaches. Hangliders also take to the air from some of the hills along the route. Popular seaside resorts and towns along the route include Lorne, Apollo Bay and Anglesea. The views in the section that passes through Port Campbell National Park are truly spectacular including rock formations such as the Twelve Apostles and London Bridge.
Gippsland
Victoria's southeastern expanses make up the Gippsland region, stretching from just southeast of Melbourne to the border with New South Wales on the east coast. This lush and fertile region is often breathtakingly beautiful and incorporates lush rainforests, spectacular waterfalls, deserted beaches and tranquil lakes. Visit Coal Creek Historical Village, a recreation of a coal mining town and Walhalla, a historic gold town or take a hike in the World Heritage preserved Wilson's Promontory National Park, one of Australia's most popular national parks. Phillip Island is nearby and worth a visit to see the fairy penguins doing their nightly 'parade'. Croajingolong National Park running along Victoria's coastline from Sydenham to the New South Wales border incorporates stunning scenery ranging from beaches, inlets and coves to rainforest.
The Great Dividing Range
Victoria is home to the Victorian Alps, the southernmost section of Australia's Great Dividing Range. The Alpine National Park (neighbouring the Kosciusco National Park in New South Wales) incorporates most of Victoria's ski resorts. Much lower than alpine ranges in other parts of the world, they are not high enough to have a permanent cover of snow but in winter the mountains are suitable for cross-country skiing as well as some downhill skiing. The skiing season starts in June and continues to September. During summer the mountains are perfect for fishing, rockclimbing and bushwalking. Note: walkers must make sure they are well-equipped with water and warm clothing.
The major ski resorts in Victoria are Falls Creek (just over 375 km/233 miles from Melbourne), Mt Buffalo (just over 330 km/205 miles from Melbourne), Mt Buller (just over 240 km/149 miles from Melbourne), Mt Baw Baw (in the Baw Baw National Park - about 175 km/109 miles from Melbourne) and Mt Hotham (about 370 km/230 miles from Melbourne). Lake Mountain (just over 105 km/65 miles from Melbourne) and Mt Donna Buang (about 95 km/59 miles from Melbourne) are mainly suited to sightseeing and novice skiing.
Go hiking or rock-climbing with the striking scenery of the Grampians (the southwest tail of the Great Dividing Range) as a backdrop in the Grampians National Park. This can be managed as a day trip from Melbourne but is worth a longer stay. The Grampians are at their best from August to November when it becomes covered with colourful flowers. Towns in the area are Ararat and Stawell.
The Wyperfeld National Park lies on the southern edge of the mallee region which extends from the national park to the northern and western borders of Victoria – bordering the arid wilderness that stretches across the west of the continent. The name mallee is taken from the many-stemmed and low-growing eucalyptus scrub which once covered the area. It is now a grain area. Considered to be a pest it has been eradicated from most of the area. The national park preserves unique mallee flora and fauna. Rich in birdlife, it is home to the rare mallee fowl.
New South Wales
New South Wales, the Premier State, is the most populous of Australia's states and is home to Australia's biggest city – Sydney. This state combines spectacular natural beauty with the cosmopolitan vitality of the state capital. The landscape includes snowcapped mountains with excellent ski facilities, endless sandy beaches and the vast emptiness of the outback. So, too, is the Hunter Valley – one of Australia's renowned wine regions, in this state. The fertile Coastal Lowlands provide an attractive setting for Sydney and most of the other larger cities and towns in the state, while the Blue Mountains and Snowy Mountains of the Great Dividing Range separate the Coastal Lowlands from the harsh New South Wales outback. The first Europeans to settle in Australia did so in New South Wales in 1788 and, as it was difficult to find a route beyond the Great Dividing Range, it was some time before inroads were made into the rest of the continent.
Hugging its superb harbour setting, Sydney is one of the great cities of the world. Its two landmarks, the Sydney Opera House and the Harbour Bridge, are unmissable. Enjoy a view of the city either from the water on a harbour cruise, many of which depart regularly from Circular Quay, or from the top of the 305m (1,000ft)high Sydney Tower.
Museums and galleries worth a visit include the Art Gallery of New South Wales, the Australian Museum, the National Maritime Museum, the Mint Museum and the Powerhouse Museum (home to collections of Sydney's Museum of Applied Arts and Sciences).
Other interesting sights are the Royal Botanic Gardens and the Taronga Zoo. The Rocks, the site of the country's first settlement, has been restored to its original state with cobbled streets, street lamps and all. It is pleasant to spend some time strolling the streets and taking in the atmosphere of The Rocks as well as the bustling quarters of Chinatown, Kings Cross, Paddington and Darling Harbour.
Those in search of surf and beaches will not be disappointed. There is, of course, the world-famous Bondi Beach to the south of Sydney which is not only a good surfing beach but a popular gathering place. So, too, is Manly Beach, lying to the north of the city. Other than these two famous beaches Sydney has some 18 beaches, some quite builtup while others remain largely undeveloped. There have been problems with pollution and it is advised, on occasion, not to swim at certain beaches. So check conditions locally before taking the plunge.
There are some fine reserves and national parks to visit in the area around Sydney. Botany Bay, about 15 km (9 miles) south of Sydney, was Captain Cook's first landing point in Australia. Still a botanist's haven, it was originally named by the expedition's chief naturalist for the many botanical specimens that were found there. Royal National Park, 36 km (22 miles) south of Sydney, established in 1879, was the second national park to be established in the world – America's Yellowstone was the first. Situated on the coastline, the park offers some fine surfing beaches. There are also some spectacular walks and trails on offer. Other activities include canoeing and fishing. The Ku-ring-gai Chase National Park, is just over 20 km (12 miles) from Sydney's city centre. Magnificent Aboriginal rock carvings are found on sandstone slabs here. It also offers some fine walking opportunities in its 14,709 ha (36,346 acres) of rainforest, eucalypt forest and heath. There is an abundance of wildlife and the lovely lyre bird can be seen here at certain times of the year.
Not to be missed, either as a day trip from Sydney or for a longer stay, is the Hunter Valley – an important area for coal as well as its numerous wine farms. The region's wineries range from family businesses to large-scale commercial enterprises. There are a number of wineries both in the Lower Hunter and the Upper Hunter where you can sample and buy wines, most of which are open all week with shorter hours on Sundays.
The Great Dividing Range
The Blue Mountains, forming part of the Great Dividing Range, lie mysteriously shrouded in a shifting blue, green and purple haze. Spanning an area of 100,770 ha (249,008 acres), the Blue Mountains National Park incorporates attractions such as the Wentworth Falls (near to the town of the same name), Govett's Leap and the Three Sisters. It is home to the grey kangaroo, platypuses, wallabies and many species of bird. The region juxtaposes a builtup tourist environment with some of the most spectacular landscapes to be seen in Australia. Only 65 km (40 miles) inland from Sydney and wellconnected by train and roads, the park offers a perfect day trip from Sydney, though it is worthy of a longer visit. Innumerable people are attracted to this region every year – Sydneysiders and outsiders alike. The main town in the range is Katoomba.
The spectacular Snowy Mountains, forming part of Australia's only extensive alpine area, contain Australia's highest mountains. Mount Kosciusco, at 2,228 m (7,310 ft) is the country's highest peak. Kosciusko National Park (neighbouring the Alpine National Park in Victoria), covering an area of 627,218 ha (1,549,889 acres) and located on the famous Snowy Mountains, is the largest national park in New South Wales. The landscape is spectacular, with glacial lakes, heaths and woodlands as well as some limestone caves. Situated 487 km (303 miles) southwest of Sydney, it is the location of a number of popular ski resorts. Developed ski resorts include the famous Smiggin Holes, Perisher Valley and Thredbo. But the mountains are not only popular for their opportunities for winter sports and people flock to them all year round: summer sports in the area include angling, bushwalking, water-skiing and boating.
New South Wales is home to some magical underground limestone caves. The Jenolan Caves are the most famous of these caves. They are situated a few kilometres southwest of the Blue Mountains on the Great Dividing Range. The Yarrangobilly Caves, situated just off the Snowy Mountains Highway, are made up of about 60 known caves, of which four are open to visitors.
The Outback
The New South Wales outback stretches across the west of the state to the borders with South Australia and Queensland. It is a rugged and harsh area in which its sheep population far outnumbers that of its people and much of the income of the area comes from mining. Despite its remoteness (or perhaps because of it), the region has a number of attractions to offer the visitor.
The main attraction to the outback town of Bourke, lying about 800 km (497 miles) northwest of Sydney, is its remoteness: its claim to fame is that it lies on the edge of the outback. There is no town around for miles and the landscape is flat and featureless. Other than this the town has a few buildings of interest, dating from the 19th century.
A surprisingly green town (due to the water that has been piped in) in one of the world's harshest environments, Broken Hill was founded on its rich supplies of silver, lead and zinc. Closer to Adelaide than to Sydney, it is in many ways more a part of South Australia than New South Wales, and sets its clocks according to Adelaide (CST) rather than Sydney (EST) time.
Lying in the far northwest, a few kilometres from the Queensland border, is Lightning Ridge a huge opal field which is the world's only reliable source of black opals. Tourists are well catered for with underground opal showrooms, an art gallery and an opal mine open for visits, amongst a number of other attractions.
South Australia
Lying on Australia's south coast, South Australia is bordered by Western Australia to the west and New South Wales to the east. The state is divided into the green coast, where virtually the entire population of the state lives, and the northern stretches of barren but fascinating outback and desert. South Australia is known for its vineyards, particularly those of the Barossa Valley and its charming capital city, Adelaide. But these attractions are not all that the state has to offer. Take a steamer along the mighty Murray River, which reaches its prime in South Australia, or visit the Coorong National Park along the green coastal area. The spectacular Flinders Ranges of the dry north are certainly worth a visit. Just off the coast is the beautiful Kangaroo Island.
Adelaide
Adelaide is an old-style city in a beautiful setting: the whole of the city centre is surrounded by green parkland and the whole metropolitan area is surrounded by the Mt Lofty mountain range. Get a good view of the city from the top of Mt Lofty. The city is well-known for its biennial Festival of the Arts and its Grand Prix.
Cultural attractions include the Art Gallery of South Australia, the South Australian Museum, the Festival Theatre Complex and the Living Arts Centre. For the nature lover there are the Botanic Gardens.The Adelaide Arts Festival is held for three weeks in February/March of the even-numbered years. Drama, dance, music and other live performances are amongst the entertainment on offer. There is also a literary week with speakers from all over the world.
Situated about 45 km (28 miles) northeast of Adelaide, this is the Heartland of Australian wine country. There are well over 40 wineries producing about two-thirds of Australia's wine. The district was settled in 1839 by English and German settlers and Barossa today maintains a distinct German flavour in the Lutheran churches, bakeries and restaurants which pepper the area. Tours and tastings at the wineries can be arranged.
Coorong National Park
This national park which comprises a narrow strip hugging the coastline from Lake Alexandrina (where the Murray River meets the sea) to just north of Kingston SE, offers some very special scenery. A narrow stretch of lagoons are separated from the sea by the Younghusband Peninsula. Fishing (along the ocean beach) and bird-watching (pelicans, terns and swans are all found here) enthusiasts are well-provided for, but if neither of these pastimes takes your fancy, this stretch is ideal just for taking a relaxed drive and stopping to enjoy the scenery or for a picnic or walk.
Kangaroo Island
Located just over 110 km (68 miles) soutwest of Adelaide, Kangaroo Island is home to seals, sea lions, koalas and, of course, kangaroos. The main town on the island is Kingscote, located on Nepean Bay. The Flinders Chase National Park, on the west end of Kangaroo Island, is South Australia's largest national park.It has beautiful forests of gum with kaolas, possums and kangaroos.
The Flinders Ranges
The Flinders Ranges, offering some of Australia's most spectacular scenery are formed by some of the world's most ancient rocks. The Flinders Ranges National Park stretches over an area of 78,426 ha (193,795 acres). The most interesting and famous feature of this national park is the Wilpena Pound in the south of the park. A this is one of Australia's most extraordinary geological features, it is a must to go and visit. An oval basin, it is ringed by steep 1,000m (3,281ft)-high cliffs while its floor is covered with trees and grass. It is home to plenty of wildlife. Its only entrance is via a narrow gorge, the route of the Wilpena Creek when it is flowing. The rest of the park is less spectacular but still worth a visit.
The Murray River
The Murray River, at its prime in South Australia, boasts spectacular scenery with huge cliffs and abundant birdlife. Take a cruise on a paddlewheeler stopping off at river towns along the way or hire a houseboat from one of the many river centres.
Western Australia
Australia's largest state, Western Australia, is full of wide open spaces of desert and more desert, with some fascinating places to visit. The state's attractions range from its hospitable capital Perth to the goldfields further inland and from its remote north to its green southwest. The central stretch from just north of Perth across to South Australia has some interesting geological sites and old gold-rush towns.
Perth
Situated on the banks of the Swan River, Perth is only a short distance away from the inviting beaches of the Indian Ocean. Museums and galleries include the Art Gallery of Western Australia, the Aviation Museum and the Western Australian Museum. Or else enjoy the outdoors in Kings Park and the Perth Zoological Gardens.
Ocean beaches include City Beach, Cottesloe, Floreat, Scarborough, and Sorrento while safe, calm beaches on the Swan River include Como, Crawley and Point Walter.
Fremantle, less than 20 km (12 miles) southwest of Perth, is a busy port and is worth a day visit for its Arts Centre and Maritime Museum.
The central stretch
The Yanchep National Park, an hours drive north of Perth and incorporating Loch McNess with its little islands forming waterfowl sanctuaries, is famous for its beautiful limestone caves. There are also bushwalking trails. The unusual rock formations of the Pinnacle Desert are found in the Nambung National Park 260 km (162 miles) north of Perth (the Pinnacles). The limestone pillars, ranging in size from a few centimetres up to five metres, create a strangely eerie landscape. The desolate area comes alive with colourful flowers between August and October.
The Avon Valley, a 90-minute drive east of Perth is a picturesque area and the location of Western Australia's most historic inland town, York. Founded in 1831, plenty of its old buildings have survived. Other popular towns in the area are Toodyay and Northam.
Wave Rock, about 350 km (217 miles) southeast of Perth, rises 50 m (164 ft) above the ground like a giant wave.
The gold-rush town Calgoorlie lies about 600 km (373 miles) east of Perth. This city, with its deposits of gold beneath the surface, has been Western Australia's most successful gold town. Historic towns such as Coolgardie offer a glimpse of what life must have been all those years ago.
The southwest
The town of Mandurah, lying about 70 km (43 miles) south of Perth is a popular beach resort. Dolphins can be seen swimming in the estuary and there is good fishing in the waterways of the area. Margaret River, about 280 km (174 miles) south of Perth, is worth a visit for its good swimming, spectacular scenery and excellent wineries. Augusta, Western Australia's most southwesterly town, is worth a visit for good swimming, surfing and fishing but also has the spectacular Jewel Caves as an added drawcard. Albany, 408 km (254 miles) southeast of Perth, was the first European settlement in Western Australia and is now a very popular holiday town. Esperance, 721 km (448 miles) southeast of Perth, has become a popular resort with its spectacular beaches and the islands of the Recherche Archipelago. The Cape Le Grand National Park, situated east of Esperance, is one of Western Australia's popular coastal parks with its spectacular coastal scenery. The park offers some excellent walking trails and there are good areas for fishing and swimming.
The Stirling Range National Park has the highest mountains in southwestern Australia, with peaks rising above 1,000 m (3,281 ft). This is a famous botanical area with well over 500 species of flower, some of which are not found anywhere else in the world. The Walpole-Nornalup National Park, with its deep rivers meandering between mountains as they head toward the sea, is an appealing destination for the fishing, boating and walking enthusiast.
The remote north
The remote north of Western Australia is an ancient land. The Kimberley, dramatically affected by the seasons, remains one of Australia's remotest areas. In the Wet the rivers flood, making many of the areas inaccessible for periods. It is advisable to visit this region between April and October (the heat is already starting to become extreme in October). Boat trips along the river up the gorge provide an excellent way to see the region. Parks in this area inlude the Bungle Bungle National Park with its strange beehive rock formations; the Wolf Creek Meteorite Crater; and the beautiful Geikie Gorge.
Derby, the commercial centre of the region provides a good base for exploring. Hall's Creek and Kununurra are base towns for scenic flights over the spectacular strange beehive rock formations of Purnululu (Bungle Bungle) National Park. The coastal pearling town of Broome maintains an air of colonial charm. Good diving can be had at Ningaloo Reef, 1,131 km (703 miles) north of Perth, or else enjoy the underwater spectacle through a glass-bottomed boat.
Monkey Mia in Shark Bay, 855 km (531 miles) north of Perth, is famous, not for its monkeys as its name suggests but for its visits from dolphins which come to be hand-fed and nuzzle up to humans ankle-deep in the waters, daily during the winter months. Shark Bay, a listed World Heritage Area, has peninsulas and inlets rich with unique wildlife.
Northern Territory
The Northern Territory, geographically divided into the Top End and the Red Centre, includes the wetlands, teeming with wildlife, and the rainforest of the former which stand in sharp contrast to the red-gold desert and incredible rock formations of the latter. Darwin is the hub in the Top End while Alice Springs takes on that status in the Red Centre. The Top End is home to the Kakadu National Park, famous for its fine Aboriginal paintings as well as its wildlife, while the Red Centre is the setting of the monumental Ayers Rock (Uluru). The Northern Territory is bordered by Queensland to the east, Western Australia to the west and the Arafura Sea to the north. Not given quite the same status in terms of selfgovernment as the other states, the Northern Territory was originally governed by the Australian Capital Territory but now has partial governing powers.
Darwin and the Top End
Devastated by Cyclone Tracy in December 1974, Darwin has rebuilt itself into a modern lively city. Despite its repeated destruction (it has been destroyed a few times over the last century) it has some interesting cultural attractions. East Point Military Museum shows World War II activities in the Northern Territory, Asia and Europe and has footage of the Japanese bombing of Darwin in 1942 available for viewing by visitors. A fine collection of Aboriginal art and work by other major Australian artists as well as Southeast Asian and Oceanic artworks and objects of cultural and archaeological significance can be seen at the Museum and Art Gallery of the Northern Territory. Other places of interest are Government House, Old Admiralty House, Victoria Hotel , the Chinese Temple and the Northern Territory Museum of Arts and Sciences. Get a feel for the local colour at one of the markets such as Mindil Beach Markets (held every Thursday and Sunday night from March until October) or take a harbour cruise.
There are plenty of opportunities for the nature lover in and near to Darwin. Aquascene in Doctors Gully Road shows the daily hand feeding of milkfish, catfish, mullet, bream and many other varieties of fish brought in by the tide. It opens only at feeding times and the hours vary with the tides, to a maximum of three hours a day. The Darwin Botanic Gardens, a must for nature lovers, has an exceptional collection of palms and other lush tropical vegetation. The Darwin crocodile farm (40 km/25 miles south of Darwin) is home to thousands of crocodiles, reared for their skins. There are crocodile-feeding displays and guided tours. The Berry Springs Nature Parks, just outside of Darwin, displays wildlife of the Northern Territory in its natural surroundings. Litchfield National Park, 120 km (75 miles) south of Darwin, is an area of rocky escarpments and spectacular waterfalls. There are numerous beaches but beware the October to May Wet when the deadly box jellyfish ('stingers') are around.
The not-to-be-missed Kakadu National Park (starting about 150 km/93 miles east of Darwin and extending for about 100 km/62 miles from west to east, and 200 km/124 miles from north to south), was made a UNESCO World Heritage area in 1987 on account of its Aboriginal art sites and its rich wildlife. The park's landscape includes the lagoons of the north which gradually transform to the rugged cliffs of the south. The Arnhem Land Aboriginal Land, lying about halfway down the national park, forms a barrier between north and south (other than Gove, northeast corner of peninsula, which is open to independent travellers). The tidal zone along the Van Diemen's Gulf is the location of the estuaries of four great rivers, which in their swamps and lagoons are again home to saltwater and freshwater crocodiles. So beware: it is the saltwater crocodiles (salties) that are really dangerous. Birdlife is prolific, particularly in the Wet, when the area swarms with migratory birds and other water fowl including kites, magpie geese, egrets, pelicans, cormorants and the jabiru. In the south of the park the spectacular waterfalls of the Jim Jim Falls and the nearby Twin Falls are worth a visit. There are numerous sites of Aboriginal rock art, the most famous of which are those at Ubirr and Nourlangie Rocks. Part of Kakadu is Aboriginal land which has been leased to the government for use as a national park. The park is an excellent but difficult bushwalking area. Marked trails range from 1 km (0.6 miles) to 12 km (7 miles) but there are numerous possibilities for those who wish to move away from the tracks. Walkers are advised to prepare well and to leave information of their movements and plans with someone.
The Bathurst and Melville Islands, 80 km (50 miles) north of Darwin, are home of the Tiwi Aborigines and have been for thousands of years. Colourful Tiwi fabrics and arts and crafts can be bought there. The islands can be visited on a guided tour, which includes a short flight from Darwin.
Katherine, situated 314 km (195 miles) south of Darwin, is a good base to explore the spectacular Katherine (Nitmiluk) Gorge which lies about 30 km (19 miles) northeast of the town. The gorge, 12 km (7 miles) long, is carved out by the Katherine River, which can become a raging torrent during the Wet. Visitor's can join a boat cruise which passes through five of the thirteen gorges or they can hire a canoe and explore them at their leisure. Katherine Gorge is incorporated in the Katherine Gorge National Park, which covers an area of 1,800 km ² (695 miles²), and is also home to the Edith Falls as well as Aboriginal rock paintings up to 7,000 years old. Another attraction in the area are the Cutta Cutta Caves, about 25 km (16 miles) southeast of Katherine, boasting some impressive rock formations.
Alice Springs and the Red Centre
Alice Springs is a lively town lying in the heart of the Red Centre. It is an oasis amidst the barren and harsh, but the landscape of the area is fascinating: a patchwork of stunning reds, coppers and ochres stretching endlessly in all directions and making a landscape that takes the breath away .
The town is home to the Royal Flying Doctor Base and the Alice Springs School of the Air which uses radio communication to provide lessons for children living in remote outback areas; both of which can be visited to see how they operate. Also worth a visit is the Old Telegraph Station where you can find out about how they laid out (with difficulty) the telegraph lines across Australia's harsh, dry centre.
Museums in the town include the Spencer and Gillen Museum, showing some superb natural history displays; the Strehlow Research Centre, housing the most comprehensive collection of Aboriginal spirit items in the country; the Aviation Museum and the Stuart Auto Museum, including the story of the first car to make its way across the Northern Territory. For a good view of the town, climb (or drive) up Anzac Hill.
Alice Springs's only winery exists in the form of Chateau Hornsby, 15 km (9 miles) out of town.
The MacDonnell Ranges outside Alice offer some spectacular scenery with the lush green of the gorges creating a spectacular contrast with the shades of red and copper of the range. Attractions to the range include the Aboriginal rock carvings at N'Dhala Gorge and the Emily and Jessie Gaps Nature Park , both in the East MacDonnells, as well as the numerous excellent walking opportunities and the amazing gaps and gorges. The town of Alice Springs, situated in the West MacDonnels provides a good base for visiting some of the more spectacular spots. Both the Simpsons Gap National Park and the Standley Chasm, which is so narrow that for only an instant each day does the noon sun illuminate the bottom of the gorge, are well worth a day trip from Alice Springs.
Not to be missed is the attraction that most tourists flock to the centre of Australia to see: the monumental Ayers Rock (Uluru) – the largest natural monolith in the world. The rock, known as Uluru to the Aborigines, has deep cultural significance to the Aborigines and there are a number of sacred sites around the base which are protected and may not be photographed or entered. Famous for its changing colours with the changing light, the rock has other fascinating features such as the Brain, the Kangaroo Tail and caves containing Aboriginal rock paintings. Ayers Rock rises 348 m (1,142 ft) from the ground and is 3.6 km (2.2 miles) long. You have a choice of climbing to the top (which is no mean feat and strictly for the fit and healthy) and walking the 9km (6mile) circumference of the rock. The less famous but equally impressive Olgas (Kata Tjuta), a collection of smaller, more rounded rocks, lie 32 km (20 miles) to the west of Ayers Rock. Both these rock formations are located in the Uluru National Park. The national park is officially owned by the Aborigines but is leased permanently to the government.
Yulara, a village incorporating the Ayers Rock resort and lying just outside the national park, provides a comfortable base for exploring the fascinating features of the area.
Henbury Meteorite Craters Conservation Reserve, south of Alice Springs, is the location of of a group of craters which are amongst the largest in the world, the largest of which is 180 m (591 ft) across and 15 m (49 ft) in depth.
Tasmania
Tasmania, Australia's island state, is home to some of Australia's oldest cities and towns as well as some of the most pristine, untouched land in the world. Its charming capital, Hobart, and its second city, Launcestown, are well worth a visit. Tasmania's national parks include the large expanses of wilderness, preserved as a World Heritage area, which stretches across the southwest and western areas of Tasmania, incorporating national parks such as Cradle Mountain-Lake St Clair and Southwest National Park. The island's isolation meant that it was an ideal site for the infamous penal colonies, remains of which can be seen scattered across the state, particularly at Port Arthur. It is also this isolation which has preserved its wilderness areas.
Hobart
Tasmania's capital city has Mt Wellington as a backdrop, the top of which, accessible by road, provides excellent views of the city. Beautifully located, the city not only has the mountains to frame it, but also straddles the estuary of the River Derwent. Second in age to Sydney, Hobart has a wealth of old colonial buildings. This and the city's size – it is the smallest of Australia's capital cities – make it a charming city to visit.
Museums worth a visit include the Tasmanian Maritime Museum, the Tasmanian Museum and Art Gallery and the Van Diemen's Land Folk Museum. Or else explore and soak up the atmosphere at Salamanca Place, Battery Point and Hobart's usy waterfront area. The Royal Tasmanian Botanical Gardens has a good selection of Tasmanian plants.
The annual New Year Sydney to Hobart race brings the waterfront area alive between 29 December and 2 January.
Launcestown
Tasmania's second city, Launcestown, is the commercial centre of northern Tasmania and still maintains its colonial Georgian atmosphere. Its major attraction is the spectacular Cataract Gorge, which lies a few kilometres from the city centre. The area around the gorge is a reserve for native flora and fauna. Museums in the city include the Maritime Museum, the Queen Victoria Museum and Art Gallery and the Waverley Woollen Mills and National Automobile Museum
Port Arthur
Port Arthur, on Tasmania's Tasman Peninsula, has a number of sites of interest. Because of its position – it is joined to the mainland by a narrow strip of land – this was the ideal spot for a penal colony and many of the original structures remain to intrigue the visitor.
National parks
Cradle Mountain-Lake St Clair National Park, a UNESCO World Heritage site, is Tasmania's most famous national park. Access to the park is via Cradle Valley to the north and Lake St Clair in the south. Lake St Clair, source of the River Derwent, is Australia's deepest freshwater lake and one of its clearest. The park includes Mt Ossa (1,617 m/5,305 ft), Australia's highest mountain. There are numerous walks available, both short and long, but the most famous of these is the 80 km (50 mile) Overland Track, one of the best bushwalks in Australia. It is well-marked across its entire length and there are twelve huts along the route which can be used for overnight accommodation (though they get very full in summer).
Mount Field National Park (80 km/50 miles from Hobart) is home to the spectacular 40 m (131 ft) Russell Falls as well as beautiful mountain scenery including lakes, dense rainforest and alpine moorland. It is home to abundant wildlife. If there has been good snow there is cross-country skiing and limited downhill skiing here.
South-West National Park, Tasmania's largest national park is an isolated and untouched wilderness and is part of Tasmania's World Heritage area. Its spectacular flora includes the Huon pine which lives for more than 3,000 years.
Islands off Tasmania's coast include Flinders Island (the largest of the Furneaux Group), King Island and Maria Island. Maria Island National Park is home to forester kangaroos, Cape Barren geese and emus as well as all 11 of the state's native bird species. There is also the opportunity for some excellent scuba diving around the island. This is the place to go if you want to get completely away from modern living: there are no motor vehicles on the island.
Time
Australia covers three time zones. These are:
Eastern Standard Time (EST): Greenwich Mean Time (GMT) plus 10
Central Standard Time (CST): GMT plus 9.5
Western Standard Time (WST): GMT plus 8
EST applies to New South Wales, Australian Capital Territory, Victoria, Tasmania and Queensland; CST applies to South Australia and the Northern Territory; and WST applies to Western Australia. Daylight saving, which runs in all states except Northern Territory, Western Australia and Queensland, takes effect from the end of October through to the end of March when the clocks are brought forward by an hour.
Tourist Offices
Each state (including Australian Capital Territory and Northern Territory) has a central tourist office in the capital city and most towns in Australia have a tourist office of some sort. A separate body, the Australia Tourist Commission (ATC) is responsible for tourist information outside the country.
Visas & Passports
A valid passport is required by all visitors to Australia.
Visas are required by all except New Zealand citizens travelling on New Zealand passports.
Customs
Duty -free limits when entering the country are 200 cigarettes or 250?g tobacco or cigars; 1 l of alcoholic liquor; and goods to the value of AUD 400.00 (AUD 200.00 if under 18).
There are strict laws prohibiting or restricting the entry of non-prescribed drugs, weapons, firearms and associated products. All animals, animal products, foodstuffs, plants and plant products are subject to quarantine control, and must be declared on arrival. The penalties for breaking these laws are severe.
Money
Currency: The Australian Dollar (AUD) is divided into 100 cents. Notes are in denominations of AUD 100, 50, 20, 10 and 5. Coins are in denominations of 5c, 10c, 20c, 50c, AUD 1 and AUD 2 .
Credit cards: The most commonly accepted credit cards are American Express, Carte Blanche, Diners Club, MasterCard, Visa and their affiliates.
Travellers cheques: Cash traveller's cheques at banks or large hotels. Some banks may charge a fee for cashing traveller's cheques.
Service charges: Tipping isn't the custom it is in some countries. Hotels and restaurants do not add service charges to accounts. Food and drink waiters are generally tipped up to 10% for good service in more up-market restaurants though this is always the customer's choice.
Business Hours
Banks: 9:30 to 16:00, Monday to Thursday and 9:30 to 17:00, Fridays (Some states have certain banking facilities open on Saturday mornings.)
General office hours: 9:00 to 17:00, Monday to Friday
Post offices: 9:00 to 17:00, Monday to Friday (Stamps are often available at front desks of hotels and motels and at selected retail outlets.)
Shops: 9:00 to 17:00/17:30, Monday to Friday (In some states shops are open all day Saturday, but in others they are open until noon. In some places shops are starting to trade on Sundays.)
Transport
International
Australia's position makes air travel the most likely means of entering or leaving the country. Each state has at least one international |
