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The colours of the Maldives do not seem real in their brilliance - the white beaches, emerald-blue lagoon and the deep green leaves of the palm trees. But is it these visions that draw people to the remote corner of the world, to the perfect destination that offers simplicity and a chance to really do nothing but absorb the pure beauty of the country.
The archipelago of 1192 islands, some larger than others, is an impressive sight as they extend 90,000 km² (55,923 miles²) across the Indian Ocean, slightly north of the equator. Only 202 islands are inhabited by Maldivians, the rest are either uninhabited or are included in the collection of 74 resort islands. None of the islands extend more than 8km (4,97 miles) wide nor rise more than 3m (9,84ft) above sea level. And with such low lying islands, there is a notable absence of hills and rivers.
The Maldives is one of the most popular dive destinations in the world, offering an underwater world of unbelievable colour and marine life such as squirrel fish, soldier fish, the shy moray eel, turtles, manta rays and of course the more than occasional reef shark. And for those more comfortable on land, the islands proudly display more than 600 species of plants, of which about 100 are indigenous.
For those seeking a tempting destination, a place completely serene, why not make the effort and discover the Maldives.
North Thiladhunmathi - A
On the outer edges of the archipelago, 26km (160 miles) from Malé, lies the North Thiladhunmathi Atoll. The atoll consists of 39 islands, of which 16 are inhabited. There are no resorts islands in the atoll. Of the 12,031 inhabitants, 2,000 live on the capital island of Diddu. The island of Huvarafushi, is far more cultural and interesting than Diddu, with much music, dancing and sport.
Utheem is well-known amongst the Maldivians as the birthplace of the sultan Mohammed Thakurufaan who cast out the Portuguese in 1573. In addition to the memorial that was established in honour of the sultan, the island also has one of few museums in the Maldives. Bamboo is a product of the island.
In the Second World War, the British set up base camp on the island of Kela. Besides this, the only other interesting features of this island are the 17th-century mosques. Yams and cadjan, which are mats made from coconut leaves, are the most important products of the island
The northernmost island, Turukunu, has become particularly famous for its dancing and not to forget, its pretty girls.
North Miladhunmadulu - C
Slightly further south than the north and south Thiladhunmathi atolls, lies the North Miladhunmadulu Atoll, which consists of 41 islands, 15 of which are inhabited. There are no resort islands. The capital island, Funadu, is adorned with history in the form of the ruins of ancient mosques and tombstones dating back to the 13th century. A natural wonder that has brought recognition to the island is the breeding of the turtles on the beaches.
Even though it is not the capital, the island of Maakandudu is the most populous with approximately 1,000 inhabitants. The island's economy surrounds the production of a coarse brown sugar known as jaggery. It is made from date palm sap.
Other islands in the atoll include Feevah and Naradu, which is said to be the most beautiful island because of its inland lakes.
North Maalhosmadulu - E
Of the 81 islands that make up the North Maalhosmadulu Atoll, only 16 are inhabited. There are no resort islands. The total population of the atoll exceeds 11,000 people. Over 2,000 of these people live on the main island, Kandoludu (Kandoludhu). The overpopulation of the island is similar to that of Malé.
The excellent fishing opportunities have attracted Maldivians to the island of Ugufaru, the capital of the atoll, as well as to the island of Alifushi. Besides these ideal fishing conditions, Alifushi is also where the best dhonis (boats) are constructed by the most skilled boatmakers in the country, not to mention the Indian Ocean. Skilled craftsmen also live on Inguraidu and Innamaadu.
Faadhippolhu - G
The Faadhippolhu Atoll, 120km from Malé, consists of 57 islands. As only four of the islands are inhabited, they are relatively crowded. The locals of the capital island Naifaru specialise in the creation of coral and mother-of-pearl handicrafts. To protect the natural beauty of the atoll and prevent further destruction of the coral and shells, visitors are advised against buying these crafts. Fishing is a major element of the atoll's economy, with a tuna cannery on Felivaru.
Kuredu Island Resort is 130km (80,7 miles) from the airport, making it the most remote resort island in the Maldives. The island offers excellent diving conditions.
Ari - I
This atoll lies 64km (40 miles) from Malé and consists of 64 islands, of which 18 are inhabited. There are 22 resorts on 20 islands. Over the years, these resort islands have steadily grown in popularity as a travel destination. Ari Atoll also includes two small atolls to the north, Rasdu and Toddu, which is famous not its toddy, as one might think, but for its watermelons.
On the eastern side of Ari is the capital, Mahibadu, which is also the fishing centre of the atoll. Much of the coral found in Malé has its origins in the coral quarries of Mammigili and Fenfushi.
Once again scuba divers will stare in wonderment at what is found in the waters around the atoll.
Mulaku - K
Mulaku Atoll comprises of 34 islands, nine of which are inhabited. There are no resort islands in the atoll. Once again, even though Muli is the capital island, the biggest and most populated is Dhiggaru in the north. Yams are cultivated on the islands of Mula and Kolhufushi.
South Nilandhe - M
South Nilandhe is slightly larger than North Nilandhe and has a total of 58 islands. Eight of the islands are inhabited. There are no resort islands in the atoll.
Once again, Heyerdahl praised the archeological splendour of the capital island, Kuda Huvadu, which has a mosque with the unique and finest fingerprint masonry in the world. The island of Rimbadu boasts many skilled goldsmiths, as does Huludeli with its community of silversmiths.
Unexplored ruins lie waiting on the uninhabited Maadeli island. These ruins include an ancient mosque and what appears to be foundations of the dwellings.
Haddummati - O
Of all the atolls in the Maldives, Haddummati is definitely important with respect to both fishing and history. There are 87 islands 224km (139?miles) from Malé, of which 12 are inhabited. There are no resort islands. The capital is Hitadu.
Evidence of pre-Muslim or Buddhist civilisations are scattered throughout the atoll. Many of the ruins still remain a mystery in terms of what their purpose was and who built them. Such is the case with the giant black dome that rises above the trees on Isdu Island. Mounds also exist on other islands including, Gamu, Kadhu, Mundoo, and the capital, Hithadhoo.
Agriculturally, the atoll is well on its way, with over 1,000 acres under cultivation. Besides the Buddhist mounds, the small airfield that services Air Maldives' Skyvan on its way to Gan in the Addu Atoll, is all there is on the island of Kadhu.
South Huvadu - Q
The South Huvadu Atoll comprises of 164 islands, of which only ten are inhabited. Remarkably, these ten islands are home to the 10,400 Maldivians of the atoll.
Tinadu, the capital and the largest island, has excellent fishing as well as its own unique dialect. An interesting history is attached to this island in terms of its involvement in the "southern rebellion" against central rule in Malé in the early 1960's. Its involvement was so dramatic that the troops from Malé invaded the island and burnt all the homes, causing the inhabitants to flee. It took four years for the island to normalise and it inhabitants to return and resettle. As a result, Gaddu became the main island.
The handicraft characteristic of the atoll and more specifically, Fiyori, are reed mats known as tundu kuna. Once again, ancient mounds can be found on the island of Gamu.
Addu - S
Addu Atoll is the so-called "second city" of the Maldives, after Malé, which lies 478km (297?miles) away. Addu is the southernmost atoll. It consists of 43 islands, of which seven are inhabited. There is one resort island.
The only similarity between Malé and Addu is that there is traffic, otherwise the two are fiercely competitive and independent, even to the extent of the way they speak.
The atoll is characterised by a well-protected harbour lagoon which has only four entrances and is surrounded by barrier reefs. Unlike Foammulaku, the fishing here is particuarly good.
During WWII and again from 1956 to 1976, the British took over the entire island of Gan and established a RAF Base. Today, the island is quiet and almost eerie, except for the lively atmosphere emanating from the resort. Slowly, with the help of Australian aid, the island is being brought back to life with the hope of attracting more visitors. Two Hong Kong garment factories have been established in old maintenance buildings and even the old cinema is still operational. The only real reason people travel to Gan is to experience the unspoilt Maldives and to visit the nearby islands of Feydu, Maradu and Hitadu, the capital of the atoll.
Besides the limited swimming conditions, the only interesting aspect of the capital is the ruins of the sultan's fort. Across the lagoon are the "Siamese" islands of Huludu and Meedu, which bares the historically significant Koagannu cemetery. The cemetry is site where several important chiefs were buried.
South Thiladhunmathi - B
The South Thiladhunmathi Atoll lies 240km (149 miles) from Malé. The atoll consists of 33 islands, of which 17 are inhabited. There are no resorts islands. Even though Nolivaranfaru is the capital island, 3,500 people of an atoll population of more than 12,000 live on the island Kuludufushi, where schooling, hospitals and electricity are available. Over time, most of the workers of South Thiladhunmathi, who are known for their hard-working ethics, have migrated to Malé. Rope making and shark fishing form the basis of the economy on Kuludufushi.
Faridu Island is the highest island in the country, reaching a meagre 6m (20 feet).
For divers, South Thiladhunmathi offers an opportunity to explore a number of shipwrecks. Over the years, a few ships have battled against the fierce storms and have sunk in the waters surrounding the atoll, providing an ideal dive site for keen divers.
South Miladhunmadulu - D
South Miladhunmadulu Atoll is situated 150km (93,2 miles) from Malé. The atoll consists of 74 islands, of which only 14 are inhabited. There are no resorts islands. Most of the population lives on the two islands of Velidhu and Holudu. Once again, even though Manadu is the capital, it is not the busiest island.
The major attraction of the atoll is the 15m (40 foot) ruin on Landu. The Maldivians refer to it as maa badhige or the "great cooking pot" that was believed to have been left behind by the fabled redin people. Thor Heyerdahl, world-renowned explorer and archaeologist, firmly believes that the redin were the first people to inhabit the Maldives in 2000BC.
South Maalhosmadulu - F
Of the 64 islands that make up the South Maalhosmadulu Atoll, only 13 are inhabited. There is one resort island, Kunfunadhoo (Kunfunadhu) which is approximately 100km (62?miles) from the airports. The atoll is 105km (65 miles) from Malé.
South Maalhosmadulu Atoll is not only famous for its lacquer work and woven cotton felis (a traditional sarong), but interestingly for its criminal and political exiles. Fuladu was home to French castaway Francois Pyrard after his ship, the Corbin, sank close to the island's shores. Fuladu was also the island to which the German tourist was banished after murdering his girlfriend in a Malé guesthouse in 1976. The two other prison islands that have been open for exiles since 1962 are Goidu and Fehendu.
Eydafushi is the capital and principal island as well as the feli centre. Lacquer work boxes and jars come from two islands, Tulusdu and Fehendu.
North and South Malé - H
North and South Malé are twin atolls that expand endlessly over the ocean for 100km (62?miles). The atolls, including the smaller Gaafaru, consist of countless islands and sandbanks. Of the 74 islands, only 11 are inhabited. Unlike the previously mentioned atolls, the North and South Malé atolls have a remarkable 43 resort islands. Most of the population lives on Kashidhu in the North Malé Atoll and Guraidhoo in the South Malé Atoll.
The capital of the atoll is Thulusdu, an island in the North Malé Atoll. The capital of the Maldives, Malé, lies in the southern region of the North Malé Atoll and also falls under the atoll's administration.
To conserve the natural, scenic and ecological beauty of the Maldives, a reserve was established. Saving the island from resort development, the Kuda Bandos Reserve near Malé provides visitors with the opportunity to view an island in its natural state.
The North and South Malé atolls are the most visited in the Maldives and therefore the most dived. Nonetheless, the diving environment is one of best in the world.
Even though the 43 resort islands that are scattered throughout the twin atolls offer accommodation that ranges from the most sophisticated to the most basic bungalows, they all guarantee a holiday never to be forgotten.
Felidhu - J
Felidhu Atoll, 67km (42?miles) from Malé, also includes Vattaru Atoll. The atoll consists of only 24 islands, of which five are inhabited. There are only two resort islands in this atoll, which is the least populated in the country.
With so few inhabitants, the locals of the capital, Felidu, make a living from fishing, boatbuilding and even selling t-shirts to the tourists visiting from the two resorts, Alimatha and Dhiggiri. Other islands in the area include Keyodu and Rakeedu.
With some of the best diving in the Maldives, Felidhu is destined to become a major tourist area.
North Nilandhe - L
The North Nilandhe Atoll is small, consisting of only 15 islands. Five of the islands are inhabited. There are no resort islands in the atoll. The population of the islands is also sparce, with approximately 2,500 people.
Much has been said and written (especially by Thor Heyerdahl, the explorer) about the archeological wonders of the capital island, Nilandhu. However, one should never rely entirely on the views of others - the best way to form an opinion about the islands is to visit and explore them yourself!
Even though the atoll is not renowned for its fishing, it is the turtles that beach on Darabudu during the southwest monsoon from April to October that have brought fame to the islands.
Kolhumadulu - N
Kolhumadulu Atoll has a population of approximately 8,000 people, all of which live on 13 islands. The remaining 54 islands in the atoll remain uninhabited and there are no resort islands.
The capital of the atoll is Veimandu, a great circular atoll, which is together with the islands of Villifushi, Guraidu and Timarafushi, the major fishing regions of the Maldives.
The archeological ruins of the atoll include a sultan's grave on Guraidu and the ruins of the palace of Mohammed Imaaduddeen II, who was a sultan in the 18th century on the island of Dhiyamigili.
North Huvadu - P
North Huvadu is, as the name indicates, the northern half the enormous Huvadu Atoll, 330km (205 miles) from Malé. North Huvadu consists of 93 islands, of which only ten are inhabited. There are no resort islands.
North Huvadu is the first atoll south of the 90km (55 mile) One and a Half Degree Channel. The Channel also separates the atoll from Laamu. Approximately 1,500 people live on the capital island of Villingili.
Handicrafts common to this atoll and especially Devvadu are textile weaving and rope making. Just as on the islands of the Haddummati Atoll, there are also ancient mounds on some of the islands of the North Huvadu Atoll.
Foammulaku - R
Foammulaku is the only atoll in the Maldives that consists of one island, 460km (285 miles) from Malé. The island, which is 6km (4 miles) long, lies in the Equatorial Channel and is completely surrounded by a steep coral beach. The island has a population of approximately 6,000 people and is covered in dense vegetation. It proudly boasts the best soil in the country.
The geographical location and the climate have attributed greatly to the only real lush island in the Maldives that produces fruits such as mangoes, pineapples and oranges that struggle to grow elsewhere on the other atolls. The isolated location of the islands has also affected the evolution of the Maldivians that live there. The people tend to be more exotic than the other islanders, and in the past they have been described as being bigger and healthier.
The island is divided into eight districts and has two freshwater lakes, Bandara Kuli and Dadimage Kuli. Despite the lush plant life, the island has a treacherous side with coral-shingle beach that drops steeply into the water, with strong currents and dangerous anchorage. Fishing is also very poor. The only reason why visitors take the time to visit Foammulaku is because it can be easily reached from Addu Atoll by plane.
Time
The Maldives is five hours ahead of Greenwich Mean Time (GMT). For comparison, the islands fall in the same time zone as Pakistan, are three hours behind Singapore and only half an hour behind India and Sri Lanka. Often for the simple convenience of the tourists, many resorts move their clocks one or two hours ahead of Malé time so that their guests can enjoy extra daylight in the evening and a longer sleep at night.
Tourist Offices
Specific travel inquiries can be made at the Maldives Department of Tourism in Malé, the capital of the Maldives. Even though the Department of Tourism has a desk at the Nasandhura Palace Hotel on Marine Drive in Malé, the information provided is minimal but includes a map of the Malé Island and Atoll and the adjacent Alif Atoll and its resorts.
Each resort in the Maldives has an office in Malé which offers more detailed information on that particular resort as well as the Maldives as a whole.
Specific historical, cultural and linguistic information is available from the National Centre for Linguistic and Historical Research.
Tourist Office:
Ministry of Tourism
Ghaazee Building
Malé
20-05
Republic of Maldives
Tel. 960-323224
Fax. 960-322512
E-mail: Tourism@netlink.net.mv
The Maldives Department of Tourism has a representative abroad:
Glebe House
Welder's Lane
Chalfont St Peter
Buckinghamshire
United Kingdom
Tel. 44-2407-3129
Visas & Passports
A valid passport is essential to enter the Maldives. Travellers holding an Israeli passport will be denied entry. A 30-day tourist visa is issued free of charge upon arrival at Hulule International Airport unless you are Indian, Pakistani, Bangladeshi or Italian, in which case you will be issued with a 90-day visa. Only if you stay on at the resort and have sufficient funds will your tourist visa been extended by a further 30 days.
In an attempt to keep the Muslim Maldivian society separate from the Western influences, a permit is necessary to visit any island other than a resort which is inhabited. Application for a permit must be made to the Ministry of Atolls Administration which can be found next to Air Maldives on Marine Drive, Malé.
Customs
As with most other countries a strict ban on firearms, narcotic drugs, explosives and a majority of industrial poisons or chemicals is imposed. Because the Maldives is Islamic additional bans exist. No alcohol, pornography or any pork products can be brought into the country. Random searching of luggage does occur. Duty-free wine or spirits will be confiscated by custom officials, but will be returned on your departure. However, alcohol can be purchased at the resorts.
Money
The Maldivian unit of currency is the rufiyaa (MRF), which is divided into 100 larees.
MRF notes are issued in denominations of 500, 100, 50, 20, ten, five and two rufiyaa. Coins are available in a MRF1 coin and smaller denominations of 50, 25, ten, five, two, and one larees. It is advisable to bring US dollars into the country as these can be easily exchanged for rufiyaa and are even accepted by resorts and shops in lieu of rufiyaas.
There are no restrictions regarding the amount of money that can be exchanged for rufiyaas. It is important to remember that only 10% of that amount can be reconverted when departing the country. Reconversion can only take place when the original exchange receipts are presented.
Business Hours
Business hours vary and are very flexible. They are largely dictated to by the Muslim relgion.
Transport
The Maldives consists of over 1,000 islands and transportation between most of these islands is an important factor. Whether it be by air or sea, the various modes of transportation are very efficient. Motor vehicles and motorbikes are only found at the airport, on Malé and on Addu Atoll. Often only the occasional delivery vehicle can be seen on the resort islands.
Public Holidays
As most of the holidays are based on the Islamic lunar caledar, the dates tend to vary from year to year.The festivals and religious holidays/celebrations are based on the sightings of the various phases of the moon. There are a number of government holidays that have fixed dates.
Peak Seasons
The peak season in the Maldives is between October and April and May, when there is just that extra bit of sunshine. March is known as the sunny month. The rest of the year, from May to September make up the low season. Even though there is less sunshine and much more rain, the prices are lower, there are fewer people and then of course a wider choice of resorts. It is not advisable to go to the Maldives between late April and late October as it is the time of the southwest monsoon which is characterised with storms and heavy rains.
Late October, early November and late March, as well as early April are important dates for divers, as these are the dates that the monsoons turn and there is an increased visibility of the seas.
Post & Telecommunications
In 1988, one of the most sophisticated telecommunications services in the region was started by Dhiraagu in the Maldives. Instantaneous international direct dialling (IDD) is still one of the wonders of the Maldives, and is as efficient and reasonably priced as any in the world. IDD is available from most resorts. International calls can also be made through the international operator. Even though every island does not have a telephone, the aim is to have a telephone on every island by the year 2000. Most resort islands can be contacted directly by private telephone. In the absence of a telephone, the atoll offices are linked to Malé and each other by means of a radio telephone. Islands make contact with each other via CB radio.
Faxes, cables and telexes can be sent and telephone calls can be made from the Dhiraagu office in Malé which is open from 07:30 to 20:00 on workdays and from 08:00 to 18:00 on public and State holidays. The offices are closed on Fridays and on Muslim holidays.
Even with the new telecommunications system, public telephones are scarce. For MRF2.00, shopkeepers will let you use their telephones.
The country code is 960 and the outgoing international code is 00. All Malé numbers are prefixed with 32 and the resort islands are prefixed wtih 34.
Poste restante services are also available from the post office in Malé. It cost MRF7.00 to post a postcard overseas and MRF10.00 to send a standard airmail letter. The letter or postcard normally takes about ten days to reach its destination. Sending parcels overseas tends to create complications at customs. Stamps and postcards can be purchased and mailed at the resorts.
Electricity
Electricity supply ranges from 220 to 240 volts, 50 cycles AC. As plug sockets vary, it is advisable to take an all-purpose adapter. Power is supplied by a generator and not a national grid and therefore even though electricity in Malé is reliable, the power on the resort islands can fluctuate. To save fuel, electricity is restricted on some islands to evenings only. Some islands are reliant on candles and kerosene. A torch is always handy.
Disabled Travellers
Information regarding facilities for the disabled is unavailable.
Budget Travel
Maldives is an expensive destination and may not fit into a student's or youth's budget. There are no hostels in the Maldives.
History
Before the conversion to Islam
The Maldivians today view the time before the conversion to Islam in 1153AD as pure myth. The documentation of that time period is hazy and based on heroic myth combined with beliefs based on archaeological findings. The history of the Maldives can therefore be divided into two stages, before and after the conversion to Islam.
It is thought that the first settlers arrived at the uninhabited islands from Sri Lanka (Ceylon) and India in approximately 500BC. The famous Norwegian anthropologist-explorer, Thor Heyerdahl, believed otherwise, clearly stating that from as early as 2000BC, traders from Egypt, Rome, the Indus Valley and even Mesopotamia called by. Some of these people settled on the islands and became known as the legendary Redin people who worshipped the sun. Some of their customs and beliefs still remain today. It was then in 500BC, when the settlers arrived, that the Redin either left or were absorbed into the Buddhist religion and traditions by the Buddhists from Sri Lanka (Ceylon) and the Hindus from northwest India. An interesting fact is that because of limited building supplies, new structures were built on the foundations of the previous people. And because the Redin were the preceding inhabitants, the foundations faced the sun. So all new buildings faced the sun and not Mecca.
Conversion to Islam
The conversion to Islam was brought about by the Arab traders who often stopped off at the Maldives on their way to the Far East to collect large quantities of cowrie shells, the international currency at that time. With the seemingly endless supplies of cowrie shells, the Maldives soon adopted the nickname, the "Money Isles". Nevertheless, it was the North African Arab, Abu Al Barakat, who was responsible for converting the Maldivians when he killed Rannamaari, a sea jinni who was, according to the parable, preying on virgins in Malé. It is believed that Barakat took the place of one of these virgins in the temple waiting to be sacrificed. Apparently he drove the demon away by reading from the Koran. Whether this is true or not, the Maldivian king was captivated by the Islamic religion and Barakat became the first sultan. From then on there were six sultanic dynasties which included 84 sultans and sultanas.
In the 16th century, the Portuguese made it clear that they wanted some share in trade routes of the Indian Ocean that proved to be so profitable. They were granted permission to build a fort and factory in Malé. Greed soon took over and in 1558, Captain Andreas Andre and his army invaded the Maldives, slaying the sultan and taking command for the next 15 years, until 1573 when the Portuguese reign came to a bloody end when the chief of Utheem Island in the Tiladummati Atoll, Mohammed Thakurufaan and his two brothers successfully attacked the Portuguese garrison. Almost immediately the next sultan dynasty arose with Thakurufaan as the sultan. A further step forward was taken with the introduction of coins as a replacement of the cowrie currency.
The Portuguese did not give up, making repeatedly unsuccessful attacks on the Maldives over the next couple of centuries. Even though they did not succeed on a military level, they did assume trading interests.
The Dutch rulers of Sri Lanka (Ceylon) soon took a keen interest in the Maldives, granting it protection in the 17th century. This protection was unofficially assumed by the British when they took control of Sri Lanka (Ceylon) in 1796. It took 90 years to formalise this British protection. The protection was conducted from Sri Lanka and not the Maldives because of the remoteness and unhygienic conditions on the islands.
It was not long after the Borah merchants from Bombay were invited to set up shops and warehouses in Malé that they systematically acquired a monopoly on the foreign trade. Out of fear and concern for their country, the Maldivians urged the Sultan Mohammed Mueenuddin II to move towards independence of the islands. In 1887 an agreement was signed with the British whereupon the Maldives became a British protectorate in return for defence facilities.
20th Century
It was only in 1932 that the sultan was elected by the people. Previously the sultan assumed the role based on hereditary. The first three sultans were unsuccessful in their roles, with the first one being desposed, the second one abdicated and the third retiring to Sri Lanka (Ceylon) leaving his governmental duties in the hands of the prime minister. The prime minister, Mohammed Amin Didi, was relatively successful in his role. He nationalised the fish industry, started a expansive modernisation programme and brought about a ban on tobacco smoking.
Upon the declaration of independence of Sri Lanka (Ceylon) in 1948, the Maldives signed a pact with the British which only gave them the right to interfere with foreign affairs and not the internal functioning of the country. On the part of the Maldivians, they agreed to provide facilities which the British could use in defence of the islands as well as the Commonwealth.
After centuries of a sultan having the final say, the sultanate was finally abolished and the Republic of the Maldives assumed power with Amin Didi as the first president. But shortly afterwards he was overthrown, beaten and killed. The 94th sultan was elected.
Even though the British were not involved in the internal functioning of the country, they did establish an airfield on Gan Island in the Addu Atoll, employing hundreds of Maldivians as well as resettling many of the islanders on Gan. But the 100-year lease of Gan that the British had was reviewed in 1957 by the elected prime minister Ibrahim Nasir. He demanded that the lease be shortened and the payment increased from GBP2,000 per year. Of course there was an objection by the Maldivians who wished the prime minister's demands to be ignored as the British were employing local labour. Mainly due to the influence of the British, the people of Gan formed an independent state with their own president, Abdulla Afif Didi. It was only in 1960 that the British were officially granted permission to use Gan and its facilities for the next 30 years. The agreement was effective from December 1956 at a rate of GBP100,000 per year, as well as a grant of GBP750,000 to finance further development in the atoll.
In 1962, in response to a rebellious uprising in the southern atolls, Nasir sent troops to settle the dispute. In response, Afif fled to the Seychelles and his leaders to various islands in the Maldives.
Even though they were still paying rent and using Gan, the British announced the southern islands as a sovereign and independent state in 1965. On the 26 of July, the Maldives were finally granted independence, later becoming a member of the United Nations.
Another attempt was made to form a republic. So in 1968, the sultanate was abolished and the Maldives became a republic with Nasir as president. During his reign there were ups and downs, with the biggest market for the Maldives' dried fish collapsing in 1972, as well as the opening of two resorts, which was a definite sign of better things to come. There were many grievances and revolts amongs the people and in 1978, Nasir stepped down out of fear and escaped to Singapore with millions of dollars.
Maumoon Abdul Gayoom succeeded Nasir, denouncing Nasir's regime and banishing the former president's associates. Later, in 1980, a coup against Gayoom by some of Nasir's men was discovered. Numerous extraditions occured as well as an unsuccessful attempt to bring Nasir back to stand trial for murder and theft. In January 1986 however, he was sentenced in absentia to 25 years banishment. In 1988 he was pardoned because of the vital role he played in gaining an independence status for the Maldives in 1965.
After his re-election in 1983, Gayoom, unlike his predecessor, did much for his country. He focussed on education, health and the economy, especially tourism. He also assisted the Maldives in gaining a full membership in the Commonwealth of Nations and the South Asian Regional Co-operation (SARC) group. The international profile of the country immediately rose.
In September 1988 Gayoom was re-elected by 96% of the population to serve as their president for another five years. The same year Gayoom was the target of a second coup attempt by a group of Maldivian businessmen who wished to seize power by employing hundreds of Sri Lankan Tamil mercenaries. The attempt was unsuccessful when 1600 Indian paratroopers were sent out by Prime Minister Rajiv Gandhi, to end the movement. Dozens of people were put on public trial and banished after being sentenced to death. It was later discovered that it was not Nasir who initiated the coup, but Abdulla Luthufi, a former Maldivian exporter of tropical fish. He had lived in Sri Lanka since 1985.
Ever since the coup, nothing significant has happened in the Maldives except for the enormous expansion of the tourism industry. With the increase in the promotion of the Maldives, the numbers of tourists has risen dramatically over the past years.
Economy
The Maldives is one of the poorest developing economies in the world. The three major sectors of the economy are fishing, tourism and shipping. Fishing is the largest industry, employing about 40% of the work force. Fishing is also responsible for approximately 60% of the exports. Skipjack tuna is the main fish caught, followed by yellowfin, little tuna, frigate mackerel and some reef fish such as sharks. The agricultural sector is very small and is not worth elaborating on, except for the fact that it is limited to the production of a few subsistence crops such as millet, corn, yams and sorghum. A major factor influencing agriculture is the limited viable land which is scattered across various islands. Most of the islanders live beyond the economic sectors, surviving on fish, coconuts and the growing of the previously mentioned crops. With limited agricultural potential in the Maldives, most of the agricultural products such as rice and flour have to be imported.
Besides the national shipping line, Maldives Shipping Limited, which is the country's second largest commercial industry, and the tuna-canning factory, the industry in the Maldives is characterised largely by handicrafts which include the making of coconut oil and coir products such as rope and matting and boatbuilding. Financial aid is available from the United Nations Development Programme (UNDP).
The manufacturing sector of the economy is also very small, but significant. The manufacturing base is mostly for the garment industry and local trade. An advantage for the garment firms is that the clothing made in the Maldives sidesteps the Western quota restrictions that are usually placed on imports from Hong Kong.
The tourist industry has gradually grown into a phenomenal success. From the time the tourist potential was realised in 1972 by George Corbin, an Italian tour operator, the number of resorts and the number of tourists has multiplied more than tenfold. By 1977 there were eleven resorts. With six to eight resorts being added each year, by 1992 there were 68. The number of tourists consquently increased from 1,097 in 1972 to over 200,000 in 1992. Today there are 74 resorts with the total tally of tourists per year reaching 250,000.
Population
According to the census of July 1995, there were 261,310 people living in the Maldives, with approximatley 55,000 people living in the capital, Malé. The population can be divided into the following ethnic divisions: Sinhalese, Dravidian, Arab and African. The original settlers of the Maldives were believed to be Dravidian and Sinhalese people from south India and Ceylon. Over the years there has been much mixing between the Maldivians and other races, especially the Arabian and African people. A distinguishing characteristic of the Maldivian people on a physical level is their small stature. A trait common throughout the nationality is the non-aggressive nature of the people.
Government
The Maldives or the Republic of the Maldives is a nation of a collection of islands. The islands are grouped into 19 administrative atolls for administrative purposes. The Maldivian parliament which is known as the Majlis or the Citizen's Council has a total of 48 members. The capital island Malé and each of the administrative atolls have two representatives elected by the people. The remaining eight parliamentary representatives are chosen by the president. Other duties of the president include the power to appoint or dismiss cabinet ministers and appoint judges. There are no organised political parties.
The Majlis nominates the president who appointment then depends on the outcome of the referendum. There is only one canditate and therefore any persons objection to his nomination would be either religious, political or military. Presently, Maumoon Abdul Gayoom is serving his fourth term of office. He was re-elected on 1 October 1993 after receiveing 92.76% of the votes. Elections take place every five years. The next election will be held in 1998.
Each government of the 19 administrative atolls is elected by the atoll chief or atolu verin. Legal matters are decided upon by the chief in collaboration with the religious head or gazi.
Language
The people of the Maldives speak a language known as Divehi, which is closely related to an ancient form of Sinhala, a language with Sri Lankan origins. Other origins include North India, and South East Asia. Divehi also contains some Arabic, Hindi and English words. To really set it apart from some other languages is the fact that Divehi has its own script, Tana. Tana was introduced by the Maldivian hero Thakurufaan in the 16th century after skillfully overthrowing the Portuguese. Tana may be inhibiting at first as it looks like shorthand and is read from right to left.
Religion
Islam is the only religion of the Maldives and those who practice the religion are referred to as Muslims. Maldivians are Muslims of the Sunni sect, the only sect permitted in the country. The other sect in the Muslim religion is the Shi'ite sect. The basis of Islam is similar to that of Christianity and Judaism, except for the fact that the core of Islam is the Koran and the Prophet Mohammed. Islam affects all aspects of life in the Maldives and the only way visitors can remove themselves from it is by going to a resort.
Art & Culture
The Maldives is not known for its abundance of indigenous crafts, but when works of art are created by the inhabitants of some of the atolls, they are truly unique in character and design. Kunaar are mats made of screw pine leaves that have been woven, dyed and hand-printed on the island Gaddu in Gaafu-Dhaalu Atoll. Other crafts from other atolls include the finest lacquerwork, traditional feli cloth, carved wooden models of dhonis, gold jewellery and black coral. It is advisable to avoid buying any black coral products as the coral is endangered worldwide.
The main museum in the Maldives is the two-storey National Museum in Sultan Park in Malé. The museum is filled with interesting artefacts, the most impressive being a coral stone head of a statue of Lord Buddha and most importantly, Thor Heyerdahl's stone figures and carvings he recently discovered that indicated pre-Muslim civilisations. Many of the relics of the past are tucked away in small side rooms without labels giving the outsider the impression that the Maldivians lack of interest or pride in their past. The museum is open daily except on government holidays, from 09:00 to 12:00 and from 15:00 to 18:00.
The park surrounding the museum is beautiful, but unfortunately it is only open to the public on Fridays.
Tiny museums can be found on some of the inhabited islands such as Utheemu in the North Thiladhunmathi Atoll.
Architecture and contemporary art is displayed in the recently opened Esjehi Gallery. Each month the exhibitions change. The gallery is open daily, except Fridays from 09:00 to 13:30 and from 14:00 to 19:00.
Food and Drink
When visiting the Maldives, be prepared to eat a lot of fish. The main source of protein on the islands is fish, especially fish and sailfish and meals mainly consist of variations of fish, rice and coconut. The Maldivians serve fish for just about every meal even breakfast. The fish is prepared in a various ways such as boiled, fried, smoked and are often cooked with curries, chillis and lime. Fish soup is very popular. The only green vegetable on the islands is the murunga. Most meals are served with roti which is a flour pancake. The most common source of carbohydrate is the breadfruit.
Snacks are thoroughly enjoyed by the locals and on special religious occasions, the food tends to be more unusual. Sweet dishes are especially common at celebrations following Ramadan.
Fruits are scarce on the islands. The most populous fruits are the screw pine's fruit, three kinds of bananas and sweet nuts very much like pistachio nuts.
In the Muslim religion, Western alcohol is heavily frowned upon. Even tourists sightseeing in Malé cannot drink alcohol without a permit. Permits are issued to foreigners resident in the country. But alcohol is available to tourists or non-Muslim guests on the resort islands.
Raa is the sweet, pungent Maldivian toddy which is tapped from the crown of the palm trunk. In every village there is a raa vari or toddy man, who is responsible for the tapping of the trees.
Besides alcohol, there is a reasonable variety of softdrinks available in Malé and the tourist resorts.
Entertainment
On most of the resort islands there is entertainment three or four nights a week. The entertainment ranges from live bands to magic shows to an evening of snooker, chess or table tennis. Often resort guests are shown a local cultural performance such as the bodu beru which is the well-known traditional Maldivian music and dance thought to have been brought to the Maldives by African settlers in approximately the 12th century. With the Divehi culture slowly eroding away as the Western influence takes hold, it is almost a priviledge to witness the traditional aspects of the Maldivian life such as the music and dance.
In Malé, the entertainment is fairly limited with a noticable absence of nightclubs or discos. Travellers really only have a choice between dining out or going to the cinema. But, despite the limited entertainment in the capital, the town is still lively with nighttime shoppers, people eating at cafés and music filling the streets from nearby houses.
Sport
Soccer and cricket are the national sports of the Maldives. Soccer is played all year round, whereas cricket is only played for a few months beginning in March. Soccer is so popular that every afternoon on every island a soccer match is ritually played amongst the young men.
Of course there must be sports of the traditional kind. Of the traditional sports, Mandi is similar to a primitive lacrosse, bai bala is the Maldivian tag-wrestling, ouvalhugon'di is a board game played with seeds and thin mugoali is similar to baseball.
Even though there are very few water sports in and around Malé, they are definitely the most popular sporting option at the resorts.
Shopping
Things to buy in the Maldives are limited, but they are unique. Most of the atolls create crafts that have become characteristic of a particular atoll. For example, the South Malosmadulu Atoll is known for its red, black and yellow lacquer work and the traditional brown and cream feli cloth. The North Malosmadulu Atoll is best known for its boat builders. Gold and silver jewellery is made in the South Nilandu Atoll.
Every year around the time of the 10 December fisheries holiday, each atoll sends examples of specialised crafts to the craft fair that is held in Malé. The crafts are higher at the fair than the shops which sell goods such as antique gold and silver jewellery and many family heirlooms such as engraved boxes, rings, bracelets and necklaces. Always be prepared to bargain with the shop owner. Other items found in the shops include gifts made from coconut shells, toddy holders and cups, old coins, stamps, folding carved Koran rests, woven leaf baskets, sea shells, sharks teeth and mother-of-pearl shells. It is advisable to avoid buying shells, especially mother-of-pearl shells, tortoise-shell products and black coral. Of course the good old printed t-shirt is also available in Malé gift shops.
Parks & Reserves
To conserve the natural, scenic and ecological beauty of the Maldives, a reserve was established in the North and South Malé Atolls. Saving the island from resort development, the Kuda Bandos Reserve near Malé provides visitors with opportunity to view an island in its natural state. A permit is not necessary.
Shows & Festivals
The only festivals in the Maldives are the religious ones. Friday is the national day of prayer and rest. A morning of prayer in the mosque is frequently followed by a religious procession such as the Sultan's procession which proceeds from the Jama Masjid.
From February to March is Ramadan or, as the Maldivians call it, rorda mas, the most important religious event. The event includes a month of fasting.
At the end of Ramadan the religious event known as Kuda Id takes place. Kuda Id is a feast that celebrates the sighting of the new moon and the end of Ramadan.
The birthday of the Prophet Mohammed is celebrated with three days of festivities and eating. This festival is appropriately called, Prophet's Birthday.
Climate
The climate in the Maldives is tropical. There is high humidity with daytime temperatures ranging from 26°C to 33°C (77°F to 87°F). The average humidity is at 80%. Sea breezes are a source of relief as they keep the air moving, slightly lowering the temperature.
The year is divided into two monsoon seasons. The monsoons determine the weather patterns and ultimately the high and low tourist seasons. Because of the location of the country on the equator, the monsoon seasons are relatively mild.
The northeast monsoon, which lasts from the beginning of December to the end of March, is characterised by dry, gentle winds. With maximum sunshine and minimum rain, this period is the high season with high prices.
The stronger winds, rain and storms are brought by the southwest monsoon which prevails from the end of April to the end of October. April and May are particularly characterised by erractic showers and June is known for its higher winds. The average annual rainfall is 1,900mm (74 inches) which falls mainly during this monsoon season. These months are the low season when accommodation is plentiful and cheaper.
For divers, snorkellers and swimmers alike, a constant water temperature of 27°C (81°F) is very pleasant.
Geography
The Maldives lie about 600km southwest of Sri Lanka. The Maldives is an archipelago of 1192 low coral islands grouped together in clusters known as atolls. Geographically speaking, the country runs from the latitude 7°N to just south of the equator. The various atolls extend no more than 128km (80 miles) west to east and 765km (475 miles) north to south. Even though some of the atolls measure 40km (24,85 miles) long and 20km (12,43 miles) wide, none of the islands extend more than 8km (4,97 miles) wide nor rise more than 3m (9,84ft) above sea level. With such low-lying islands, there is a notable absence of hills and rivers.
Despite the fact that there are over a thousand islands, many are merely tiny sandbanks covered in palm trees. Often it only takes ten minutes to walk around these islands. The other larger islands are covered in bushes, flowers and tropical plants such as coconut palms, bamboo and mangroves. Only 202 islands are inhabited by Maldivians. The other 74 resort islands are classified by the Maldivian government as uninhabited or, more specifically, uninhabited by Maldivians.
The beauty and the serenity of the Maldives is achieved by the barrier reefs which protect the islands from the harshness of the open seas and the monsoons.
Concern has been expressed about the greenhouse effect which could cause the sea level to rise to such a degree that the whole chain of atolls that make up the Maldives will be submerged within thirty years. With the absence of rivers and only one freshwater lake, there have also been discussions concerning the water supply, which is predicted to run out by the end of the century.
Health
As with most destinations around the world, it is essential that any visitor arriving from areas that are infected with cholera or yellow fever, must produce an international vaccination certificate.
If you are healthy before you start travelling, the greatest health risk in the Maldives is the sun. A sun block with a high SPF factor is therefore important. Be particularly aware on overcast days because even on these days you can get badly burnt. With the particularlys high humidity, people tend to perspire alot, so be sure to drink plenty of liquids and take plenty of salt in the form of salt tablets.
Even though most travellers from the developed countries will have had the necessary vaccinations against certain diseases it may be a good idea to have booster shots against some diseases still prevalent in developing countries such as measles or polio. Vaccinations against tetanus and hepatitis can be helpful. Despite the fact that malaria has been largely wiped out in the Maldives, it is advisable to take a course of antimalarial tablets before travelling to the islands.
Diving is also associated with health risks and safety. Make sure that before travelling, you have a medical checkup with your doctor or upon arrival at your resort.
It is always important, when travelling, to have some form of travel insurance policy that will cover theft, loss and medical problems. A medical aid kit is also an essential item when travelling.
Emergency medical care is adequate in the Maldives. In case of medical casualties, the Central Hospital in Malé is available. Evacuation services exist to transport critically ill patients from the resort islands. It is important to ensure that your medical insurance will cover such evacuation services.
One of the most basic health rules is to take extra care of what you eat and drink, particularly in the capital, Malé. The food and drinks at the resorts is more than likely fine. As a safety precaution, do not drink the local water, including the ice. Rather buy bottled water, but beware of these bottles just being filled with tap water. The water supplied in the guesthouses at the resorts should be drinkable. Also take care with the fruit juices and milk, especially if water is added or if the milk is unpasteurised.
Regarding food, take care with shellfish and undercooked meat. Try and avoid dirty, unhealthy shops and restaurants.
Safety
Whenever you are travelling, it is important to keep your valuables such as your passport, tickets and traveller's cheques in a safe place, whether it be in a money belt or a deposit box at your resort. Do not leave valuables in your room or sleep with a open or unlocked window or door that is accessible from the outside. Crime may not be rife on the islands, but it is always necessary to be aware of your surroundings and valuables.
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