If Uzbekistan is fabled cities, Kyrgyzstan presents a very different appeal. It is the most beautiful of all the republics, with mountain ranges, thousands of glaciers, forests and alpine valleys. The Kyrgyzs originally came from Siberia but were forced south in the 13th century by Kublai Khan. Their new alpine home gave them refuge and fostered a nomadic tradition which continues today.

In Bishkek, the sleepy capital, mountains rear up where the street lighting ends. Melted water from the mountains runs in channels by long, straight roads and a huge statue of Lenin gazes down on a forlorn public square. The simplest mountain excursion is to Ala-Archa nature reserve, about an hour away. Pick your direction and start walking; there are ski lifts in summer and all the peaks clear 4000m. Lake Issyk-Kul begins 100km east at Balykchy. A vast sea that, stretches for 180km, it is one of the largest lakes in the world. I headed for Kara-Kol, an old garrison town near the southeast shore, where wooden colonial houses and churches stretch towards the hills and mountains beyond. In more recent times, Russians built holiday homes here and many stayed behind after independence. Wherever there is grazing the Kyrgyz will lead their horses and sheep, the men invariably sporting traditional white, felt hats. The lake’s shores were no exception.

One of the country’s most scenic journeys is the north-south crossing towards China via the Dolon and Torugart Passes. A few bleak towns aside, this is a world of endless peaks, rolling pastures and small escarpments of sturdy, white tents or yurts. Hospitality will probably entail koumiss — fermented mares’ milk — and loaves of flat bread dipped in butter-cream.

Naryn, the last major town before the border, is the place to arrange onward transport. One worthwhile diversion is to Tash Rabat caravanserai, an ancient pit-stop for weary traders who sought shelter from storms and bandits. It sits in splendid isolation up a side valley, part of its thick stone walls wedged into the slopes behind. Picnicking on bread, cheese and Kyrgyz champagne, my hunger for remote yet interesting places was amply satisfied.

Trains/flights to Tashkent and Bishkek leave daily from Moscow. There are regular flights from London, Delhi and Islamabad to Tashkent. Internal bus travel is inexpensive and reasonably comfortable. Hotels vary in standard and value for money; the region is no bargain. Clean, new US dollar bills are essential.