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Away from the humdrum of the rest of the world, Nepal sits on the top of the world distanced by more than just miles. The population has been insulated from much of the world's issues, escaping most other things that we must confront daily. The reality, however, is that this enchanting nation does have its problems. Nepalese are normally quiet and somewhat reserved yet friendly with visitors. The country is filled with geographical wonders that have to been seen to be appreciated. It is a living museum exhibiting centuries old cultures living in astonishing harmony with the 20th century and the advent of the new millennia
Capital: Kathmandu
Population: 17, 100,000
Area: 54, 364 square miles
Language: Nepali
Time: GMT + 5 hrs 45 min. Nepal is ahead of Indian time by 15 minutes yet across the border in China the time is time is 3 hrs and 15 minutes later.
Electricity: 220 Volts AC, 50z
Geography: The country is bordered by China to the north and Indian to the south. The entire nation is mountainous with most of land mass hovering above 10,000 ft.
Tipping: Tipping is not a common practice here.
Shopping: Many shops are open by 8 in the morning and remain open through the day until about 5 or 6 pm. Many close for a short time at lunch. Things to but include hand made paper with woodblock printing, copper statuettes, folk objects, multi-colored wool jackets, bamboo flutes, carpets and marriage umbrellas. Remember that you can not export any item which is more than 100 years old. You will need written documentation from the government to do so.
Food and Drink: The country really does not have its own distinctive cooking. In most parts of the country rice is the basic food with some of it being spicy. The people in the hills eat a raw grain which is ground an mixed with milk called 'tsampa.' Everyone seem sot enjoy eating sweets and spicy snacks. Note that hygiene among street vendors and eating places away from the cities is not a high priority. You must be very careful what you eat. If you are on a day outing, carry food with you as well a a beverage. If you drink water you must only drink bottled water!
Social: English is not well known except by guides and hotels and some restaurants. Some restaurant have menus specially written in English. Nepal is a very culturally divers nation with ethnic groups that are far to numerous to mention.
Business: Business suits are recommended. Appointments are necessary well in advance and punctuality is very important.
Banking: Banks are open 10 am to 2: 30 pm Sunday through Thursday and close at noon on Friday. All banks are closed on Saturday.
Currency: The Rupee
Money Exchange: Best done at banks
Credit cards: Visa, Master Card and American Express
Climate
Kathamdu Valley - The cold season is from October through March and is the best time to visit Nepal. The night time temperatures will drop to the low 50sF but will reach the mid 70sF by mid afternoon. In April through June the air becomes much warmer and is often stuffy. At the end of June the monsoon season arrives and lasts until the middle of September. Trekking is impossible or at least ill advised. The humidity is very high.
Pokhara - The same information applies as with the Katmandu VAlley but it is much warmer due to lower altitude by a bout 1,000 ft.
The Mountains - Warm breezes in the mountains are interrupted by cold winds in the summer months. In winter it obviously get severely cold and is impossible to traverse.
Nepal is one of the most popular destinations on the Indian sub-continent. Many people visit to trek in the Himalayas or to view the gigantic Mount Everest. Others come to try and re-live the hippy era of the 1970s, smoke the local hashish and laze about, feeling as if they are close to some universal deity.
But, for me, the allure of Nepal has always been the people. A gentle and friendly folk, with genuine religious beliefs and a consciousness which pervades all aspects of their life, the Nepalese are one of the most agreeable races on earth. Walking down any street in the country — be it one of Kathmandu’s busy shopping lanes or a tiny, cobble-stone alley in a small mountain village — one can not help but feel an empathy with these people.
Their way of life, charming mannerisms and friendly, hospitable, tolerant attitudes towards visitors leave a lasting impression which makes you want to visit Nepal again and again.
Added to this are the mysterious religious beliefs and rituals which are as much a part of everyday life as eating — the reverence to Hindu, Saddhu and Buddhist doctrines and shrines and the philosophy of understanding, acceptance and learning that encompasses every level of society. No matter when you visit it is likely that these religious beliefs will be displayed in a flamboyant manner during the many religious festivals that are held during the year.
Holi, an ancient festival which originally celebrated Lord Krishna’s victory over evil, is one such event. Holi, or the Festival of Colours, is held each year. Young people, covered with brightly coloured paints, run through the streets, whooping with joy and dousing anyone who is outside with their coloured powders and bright, liquid dyes. All day children and adolescents roam the footpaths, armed with red vermilion powder, black, brown and orange paste and small balloons filled with blue, green and yellow water. Anyone caught outside is fair game and tourists, businessmen and even policemen can be seen, their faces smeared with coloured paste, their hair discoloured with henna or vermilion powder and their clothes streaked with brightly coloured dyes.
Tihar, a celebration usually held in December, marks the begining of peace between Ganesh and his father, after young Ganesh was forced to live with the head of an elephant. The Festival of Lights, as it is known, is marked by the lighting of small butter lamps at night and the hospitable offering of sweet meets to strangers. This linking of animism and Hinduism is a truly bizarre ritual which often results in businesses being closed for up to 10 days. It begins with crowds of people, dressed in their best clothes, flocking into Kathmandu from the nearby towns and villages. All the family groups lead a young, healthy and finely groomed goat on a leash. This continues for two or three days until every street is full of people wandering around with young goats on a lead as if they were the family dog.
There is much admiration of handsome goats and some rivalry between the young people with regard to their clothes and finery. One morning, after hours of quiet, solemn prayers and chanting during the night, an eerie silence descends on the town and the goats are led to various alters around the city and slaughtered. Blood stained sidewalks and subdued, reverent faces greet tourists and for most of the day the atmosphere is ominous — almost as if everyone is in mourning. Then, as darkness descends, the goats are cooked and there is feasting for most of the night. After this climax the city slowly empties and returns to normal. There are a number of other celebrations held by individual religious groups to worship specific Hindu gods and during these festivals rich and poor join together.
During the Gaijatra, or Cow Festival, all families who have mourned the loss of a loved one during the previous year choose the youngest person to lead a parade through the streets. There is dancing and singing and the sacred cows who wander the streets are treated to special food and gifts. Bodhnath Shrine, an ancient Buddhist stupa, is as important to a local person as any of the Hindu stupas that dot Durbar Square and the old capital of Bhaktapur.
On the edge of Durbar Square, is one such stupa. The restored wooden temple, called Hanuman Doka, has intricately carved and beautifully painted statues of a variety of sexual activities arranged around the underside of the roof and adorning parts of the walls. A naked, wooden woman, thighs eagerly spread, entertains two men, each of her timber hands grasping a penis, while the males’ attention are directed towards her breasts. Two women can be seen enjoying each other or using one man’s body and heterosexual couples, involved in a variety of interesting positions, have been carved into the main support struts.
The Nepalese believe these depictions of sexual union protect them from the violent storms and earthquakes that are common in Nepal. No matter what the basis of their beliefs, these depictions of carnal interaction are as accepted and revered by Nepalese people as the many festivals which are held by other sects in the country.
Nepal really is an intriguing, spiritual and incredibly friendly destination and, even if you are only visiting to walk in the mountains or catch a glimpse of Mount Everest, make sure you take a look below the surface and get a taste of the country’s incredible culture.
FACT FILE
Getting there: Flights from London to Australia with a stopover in Kathmandu can be arranged although, in some cases, it is necessary to make an overland trip from Delhi or Bombay to Kathmandu to make the connection. Travel from Delhi to Kathmandu can be taken independently on a train or local bus via Patna or there are a number of mini-buses run by Europeans that take travellers between the two cities. These can be found on the streets of Thamel (for travel from Kathmandu to Delhi) or on Jan Path, near Connaught Circuit, or Pahar Gange (the old Afghan area of town) for travel from Delhi to Kathmandu. Expect to pay about £12 for a one way trip.
Accommodation: Rooms in clean guesthouses in Thamel, Kathmandu, can be found from about £4 per night for a double. Gulliver’s is a small, but clean, alternative at this price. Better rooms with ensuite bathrooms and hot water at Tushito Guest House will cost about £8 per night for a double.
Visas: Visas are required for Australian, New Zealand, American or UK passport holders.
Drugs: Hashish can be bought on the streets in Kathmandu and Pokhara but it is illegal. If you intend on smoking the local produce it is best to be discreet and never buy much at a time. It is unlikely that you will be arrested for possession, as Nepal is a very tolerant country, BUT IT CAN HAPPEN and the legal system is very slow, so expect a long sting in jail before your case is heard. |