THERE are two things about La Grave, (pronounced like carve not brave). First, it’s in the sticks but then not all good things are easy to come by. Secondly, according to many skibums, it’s “the” resort.

We drove along a tortuous road that climbs through the Hautes Alpes. Every now and then mutterings from the back could be heard over the music, “Ach, I told you it’s bloody miles. Aye, and the skiing will probably be crap.” We knew better than to listen to the ramblings of a dour Scot. Our friend, John Vaitkus, had paraglided over La Grave one summer and it must have been good to inspire him and other skibums to head there. It’s been ranked third in the world by the “Best Resort Survey” for quality of skiing.

We arrived on a clear, moonlit night and got our first view of La Mieje, a colossal 3982m of glaciers, ice chutes and snow-clad granite faces, dwarfing the tiny village of 250 people, nestling at its foot. We were too late for an evening meal but Monique, doyen and mainstay of “The Skiers Lodge” fixed us with her formidable gaze, bustled around the kitchen and served us a huge meal by a roaring log fire in the busy bar. Nightlife is minimal at La Grave so most skiers and locals head to the Lodge which gives them a warm welcome. John was busy celebrating Burns Night in the traditional style, insisting: “Ye canna leave until it’s empty” as he waved a fine 12-year-old malt under our noses. Fortunately the lifts open at the civilised time of 9.30am.

The people are laid back and the village has an easy going appeal with authentic French charm. Tourism consists of a few bars and hotels in the village, a scattering of rustic buildings, a 12th century church and a shop selling cheeses, hams and honey. This traditional alpine village has hardly changed in 800 years and is one of the only resorts that retains a subsistence from agriculture.

This is why English couple, Les and Caroline Harlow bought the old hotel “La Chaumine” 10 years ago and converted it into a charming lodge with a bar and a sunny south facing terrace.

“More and more people are starting to come once they hear how good the skiing is. It’s incredible, a vast expanse of off-piste. On some days the weather is bad and the lift company phones us up and asks, ‘How many skiers do you have? Do you want us to open the area? OK, it's all yours'.”

If you like skiing, this is skiers’ heaven. One run from the top lift back to the village takes an hour and has unrivalled views. The mountain’s sole lift system was built in 1976 to celebrate the conquering of La Mieje by local climber Gaspard 100 years before. At first the locals resisted the idea and one environmental group blew up a pylon. However, the lifts got built, the resort was opened and skibums from around the world who were seeking wild and challenging terrain and were dissatisfied with overcrowded, overmanaged resorts in other areas began the migration to Le Grave.

There is also a T-bar linking La Grave with Les Deux Alpes, ensuring its place amongst the few resorts boasting more than 2000m of uninterrupted skiing. It is the second highest lift station in France.

We skied with Swede, Per Lang. An excellent guide and a man of few words. The flamboyancy of his skiing was tempered by a laconic and thoughtful nature. Before skiing the “Chancel” from the top of the T-bar, Per showed off the panoramic views of La Mieje and Le Rateau mountains and the scale of the ski area.

Our route took us through some steep areas on the glacier and through a Meleze (larch) forest. Nervously we put in fresh tracks with a group of awesome telemarkers. After only two or three turns I came to an abrupt and undignified halt, falling face first in crud. I was relieved to hear swearing and cursing in Swedish and noticed more than a few heads buried around me. Per and John waited patiently below. Per’s only comment was: “This wind crust is no good. Let’s go ski somewhere else.”

We headed for the “Col du Lac”, traversing to an area skied smooth through the forest where Per guided us to an area of knee-deep powder. He told us the forest was good in bad weather because it gave added protection and visibility, adding proudly, “but when the skiing here is good it’s the best anywhere.” I could imagine the grin on John’s face as he set off with Per ahead of the group, leaving perfect tracks in their wake.

After three hours my legs felt like licorice sticks. I was catching my breath when Per broke into my reverie: “first we have lunch, then we ski hard”. La Grave is infamous for its “interesting” snow conditions. In one morning we skied everything from hard-packed, tracked, wind-crust to powder snow. Seasoned skiers recommend putting in as few turn as possible to conserve energy.

As we picnicked on the terrace of “Les Vallons” restaurant a huge avalanche tumbled harmlessly from the Mieje glacier above. Apparently, after a big snowfall, this is common when the temperatures rise in the day.

Fortified by numerous vin chauds we made for Colouir Banane, one of many gullies in the area. Per guided us carefully, making first turns into the 45 degree couloir which, mercifully, was in good condition and a real adrenaline boost. The rest of the day we skied two runs, from the T-bar to the village, a run of 2150 metres. On our last run we saw no-one. On a busy day only 200 skiers venture over from Les Deux Alpes, on some days none. The exception is the annual Mieje Derby, a long weekend in March when a downhill competition is held for all-comers, drawing skiers of all types from far and wide. It’s also a good excuse for a massive party.

La Grave remains a fairly well kept secret. It is a unique ski resort which is for good skiers who either hire a local guide (there are no pistemarkers, safety nets or patrollers to hold your, hand) or alternatively you could stay at the Skiers Lodge where Per and the staff show you around.

And, as John conceded: “d’nae worry the skiing was nae crap afterall”.