THE Trans-Siberian Railway is like no other. In his book, The Big Red Train Ride, author Eric Newby summed it up: “There is no railway journey of comparable length anywhere in the world....The Trans-Siberian is the big train ride. All the rest are peanuts.”

The railway is the longest continuous rail line on earth, covering more than 10,000 kilometres and one third of the globe. Without stopovers, it takes at least seven days to cross the vast expanse of Russia — more if the trip continues as far as Beijing.
Since the present route opened in 1916, it has attracted a diverse range of passengers — from businessmen and Russians to adventurers who believe that getting there is all part of the fun.

If the thought of riding the northern line at peak hour sends you into a cold sweat then the epic Trans-Siberian railway journey may not sound like your ideal holiday, but those who have taken the trip have described it as an unforgettable experience.

The longest route taken by passengers is the Trans-Siberian line, which runs from Moscow to Vladivostock on the Pacific coast. The route goes through Novosibirsk, the “capital” of Western Siberia and then Irkutsk in Eastern Siberia. After passing Siberia’s Lake Baikal, the world’s deepest and largest freshwater lake and home to the world’s only freshwater seals, the train goes through the centre of Buddhism in Russia, Ulan Ude, and on to Khabarovsk and Vladivostok where it is possible to continue by ferry to Japan.

The Trans-Mongolian journey follows the same route as the Trans-Siberian line until just east of Ulan Ude. From there the train heads south through deserted landscape into Ulan-Bator in Mongolia before making its way southeast to Beijing.

Another option is the Trans-Manchurian line, which coincides with the Trans-Siberian as far as Tarskaya, 100 kilometres east of Chita. From there it heads south-east to China and down to Beijing.

A fourth route was completed in 1984 , known as the Baikal Amur Mainline. It leaves the Trans-Siberian line west of Lake Bailkal and reaches the Pacific to the northeast of Khabarosvsk, at Imperatorskaya Gavan.

Whatever route you choose, the trip is what you make of it. There are three ways to organise it — a group tour, semi- independently, or solo.

With advance tickets, reservations and hotel bookings made through a travel agency, travelling semi-independently is the most popular option.

There is the freedom to choose your own itinerary and more contact with locals than an organised tour without the problems of travelling in a country that has only recently opened up to the independent traveller.

Despite the changes which have taken place over the last few years, Russian visas are still difficult to obtain.

The main problem is that tourist visas require sponsorship. You either have to have hotel bookings for your entire stay, with a sponsorship letter from a local or foreign travel agency verifying this or a letter of invitation from an individual in the country, accounting for your stay. This means the process can be time consuming and expensive.

Travellers on the Trans-Siberian only require a Russian visa while those travelling to Beijing require a Chinese visa. Passengers on the Trans-Mongolian route will also require a Mongolian transit visa, which must be arranged prior to departure.

Before you board the train, wipe any visions you may have of sipping champagne or eating three course meals in your Sunday best. Dress is informal and comfortable and since there are no showers on the train, it has to be. For travellers who go straight through without any stopovers, this means about a week without a shower, although a sponge bath in one of the toilets is a possibility.

There are two classes of travel — first class has two berths to a compartment and second class has four.

The choice may come down to whether you want to spending time alone reading or watching the scenery shoot by or mix it with the locals whose love of vodka is legendary.

There is a dining car, but with greasy dishes or soup on offer it’s recommended that passengers buy food along the route from the groups of peasant women at many of the stations.

The Trans-Siberian trains stop several times a day — but not for long. Most stops are under a half an hour, giving you time to replenish your food or drink stocks. However, it is possible to arrange a stopover along the route. Unplanned stopovers, however, can pose a problem because of tourist visa limitations.

But there is a lot more to Russia than can be seen through a window and seven days straight aboard a train is enough to make vodka poured over cornflakes seem like a nutritious breakfast.

One popular stopover destination is Yaroslavl, 282km outside of Moscow. With hundreds of churches, it is one of the most beautiful cities along the route.

Irkutsk is worth a stopover because of its proximity to Lake Baikal. Next year the city, which has retained many neo-classical buildings, has planned celebrations to commemorate the inauguration of the rail line.

Located in the hills above the Amur River, Khabarovsk is particularly nice in the hotter months when travellers can join the locals cooling off in the river or sit in a cafe in Karl Marx Street.

With temperatures averaging in the mid-20’s in Russia during summer, it is the most popular time to take the trip, although the train cars are air-conditioned.

Prices vary depending on the time of travel and whether you do the trip independently or as part of a tour and range from about £400 to £800.