CULTURE & FESTIVALS:

The Portuguese are keeping a firm grip on their culture despite growing influences from abroad. Traditional folk dancing is still proudly performed throughout the country and local festivals are wildly celebrated.

The Feira de Outubro (first two weeks of October) and Festa de Colete Encarnado (“Red Waistcoat Festival” during the first two weeks of July) — held at Vila Franca de Xira in the Ribatejo region — both offer Portuguese-style hospitality and bullfighting with Pamplona-style bull-running through the streets.

Fátima, just under 100km NE of Lisbon, is one of the most important centres of Catholic pilgrimage in the world, its cult founded upon a series of six apparitions of the Virgin Mary during 1917. Two major festivals commemorate the first and last of the apparitions on May 13 and October 13. These are the greatest annual pilgrimages of a particularly devout nation.

Another major festival is the Feiro Nacional do Cavalo (National Horse Fair), held every November in Golegã. The two-week celebration is around St Martin’s Day (Nov 11).

A more recent addition to Portuguese culture is the fanatical following of football (soccer). Benfica is one of Europe’s most famous clubs and plays in Lisbon’s majestic “Stadium of Light”. Watching a match is a great experience, even for non-sports lovers.

FOOD & DRINK:

The “national dish” is bacalhau (dried salt cod) in one of, reputedly, 365 preparations. Seafood is, obviously, pre-eminent in coastal regions and, apart from bacalhau, grilled or barbecued sardines, arroz de marisco (mixed seafood with rice in a soupy broth) and porco à alentejana (pork cooked with clams) are all worth trying. Chicken is on virtually every menu, but is at its best when barbecued and served with the fiery piri-piri sauce (à la Nando’s).

Portugal’s wines are generally good, although the best known are Port and Madeira, the world-famous fortified versions. Visitors can try up to 300 types and vintages of port at the Instituto do Vinho do Porto bars in Lisbon and Porto. Água-pé (literally "foot water") is a light wine made by adding water to the crushed grape husks from the initial stage of wine production. It is drunk at festivals, particularly at the National Horse Fair. Beer isn’t as well known, although it is widely drunk and many brands can be tried at the one week Beer Festival in June at Silves Castle.

AWAY FROM IT ALL:

Ilha Berlanga, a tiny island 10km off Peniche, has been described as a “Scottish isle transported to warmer climes”. The entire island has been declared a national reserve and its clear warm waters (in summer) are perfect for snorkelling and diving. There is rudimentary accommodation on the island.

Further north, the endless sandy beaches of the Beira region have been called the Costa de Prata (Silver Coast). Even with modern development, the region remains unspoiled and life remains traditional. Longer and wilder beaches are found nearer to Lisbon at Guincho, three kilometres from Cascais and host to the 1991 world surfing championships.

Inland are the regions of Mountain Beiras, The Minho and Trás-os-Montes, areas as remote as any in Europe. In these regions travellers will, most likely, find the quintessential Portuguese experiences they are seeking.

TOURIST TRAPS:

The summer residence of Portuguese kings of old, and of the Moorish lords of Lisbon before them, Sintra is one of Portugal’s tourist jewels. Architecturally and historically beautiful, it is something of a “must-see”, much as is Toledo in Spain. A similar destination is Óbidos, a tiny town lined with cobbled-stone streets and totally enclosed by medieval walls. The town was a traditional bridal gift from Portugal’s kings to their queens and is another great place to visit. Like many “traps”, Óbidos regains its character after the tourists have left and, for that reason alone, it is worth staying at least a night.