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The biggest event on the Scottish calendar is Hogmanay — New Year's Eve to the rest of us. On December 31 the crowds gather to join hands and sing Auld Lang Syne, pass the whiskey bottle around, and generally have a good time.
It's not only the Scots who enjoy Hogmanay. Visitors from around the world come to join the "Biggest New Year's Party in Europe" — a four day festival in the capital city, Edinburgh. A highlight of the celebrations is the torchlight parade on December 29 .
Hogmanay lasts for three nights, with live music and theatre on stages along Princes St. The crowds gather in the gardens to await the spectacular fireworks display and the bells that ring in the New Year. There are classical and pop concerts, pipe bands, singing and dancing along the Royal Mile which stretches from the Castle to Holyrood Palace.
But, Edinburgh has more than the Hogmanay festivities to offer travellers. It is often described as one of the most beautiful cities in Europe. In the pale sunshine of a winter afternoon one can see why, especially in the Neo-classical New Town where construction began in the late 18th century. South of the Princes St divide lies the medieval Old Town whose narrow, smoky streets once gave the city its other, not so complimentary, nickname of "Auld Reekie" (Old Smokey). The Old Town has been carefully restored and is a delight to walk around.
Princes St, although still one of the most elegant streets in Europe, has been somewhat spoilt over the years by the invasion of chain stores. It is saved by the Princes St Gardens on the south side. In 1834 the American writer Nathaniel Willis described it as a "broad and deep ravine planted with trees and shrubbery". It's much the same today and is a great spot for a stroll. You pass one of Edinburgh's most famous landmarks, the intricate Gothic monument to Sir Walter Scott with wonderful bird's eye views from the top. A gentle morning stroll along here would be the perfect antidote to a Hogmanay hangover.
There are tons of things to see and do in Edinburgh, but there are great treats in store if you explore a little further afield with a hire car. Self-drive rental costs £15-£30 a day, depending on the type of car and the length of the rental.
The historic city of Stirling is 36 miles north of Edinburgh. In the movie Braveheart Mel Gibson portrayed William Wallace, the 13th century rebel who led a ramshackle army against the much greater English forces, defeating them in the historic battle of Stirling Bridge. The old bridge there dates from 1400 — the original wooden one, which was the scene of the battle, disappeared long ago.
History permeates Stirling. The forbidding castle stands on a great rock and has looked down on ferocious battles from Wallace to Bonnie Prince Charlie. Centred around and below the castle is the Old Town, the finest concentration of historic buildings in Scotland. The Old Town is not a period piece frozen in history. People live in the beautiful old buildings and children play on the sidewalks. Take a walk along the Back Walk which winds around the 16th-century town wall. The Back Walk was constructed around 1723 to 1791 and is a delightful circular walk which leads you up to the Castle and back to the Old Town.
In winter the landscape has its own beauty. The mountains are a soft blue-grey, the glens with their fast-flowing streams are scattered with colourful berries and large numbers of deer seeking food can be seen at relatively low altitudes. Days are short in this most northern part of the British Isles but don't be put off. Make the most of the daylight and when darkness falls there is plenty of traditional Scottish hospitality in cosy pubs where you can enjoy a "wee dram" and a chat with the locals — they're nowhere near as dour as they're made out to be — especially when Hogmanay lingers and a "Happy New Year" is wished to one and all. |