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Recently my husband and I had the urge to get away on a romantic interlude. But where could we take our three-year-old and still have a relaxing vacation with some time to ourselves. Sound impossible?
Jamaica has long been known for its wealth of "All inclusive" resorts exclusively for singles and couples. However, in the last five years a new trend has begun... all inclusive for families. Presently there are two such clubs both just outside of Ocho Rios; Boscoble Beach Club, and Franklin D. Resort, more commonly known as The FDR. Both resorts charge one weekly fee for a room, all food, liquor, cigarettes, entertainment, day sight seeing excursions, sports equipment with instruction, and children's 'mini-club', and children 14 and under accompanied by paying adults are free of charge.
Brightly colored travel brochures portray these resorts as the places you often observe on "Lifestyles of the Rich and Famous." Mum and Dad cavort on a secluded beach ALONE. Rosy-cheeked children ride ponies or swim in their own pint-sized pool, and teens dance at a disco that makes "American Bandstand" look archaic and dull. I'm always skeptical when things look this good. Maybe it's because I've been too many places in this world that weren't as fabulous as its travel brochure proclaimed!
Both FDR and Boscoble offer about similar cuisine, activities, entertainment, and amenities, and both the mini-clubs are comparable. However, FDR is smaller, only 67 suites as verses Boscoble Beach's 1250 rooms. FDR is Suites Only as opposed to rooms at Boscoble, and at FDR each suite comes with a "Girl Friday." In English terms that's a nanny, in American that's your own personal maid! That factor alone and I was sold! FDR claims that your Girl Friday cleans up after you, cooks for you if you don't want to eat in the dining room, and takes care of your children. It sounded like Heaven to me!
"Round-trip transportation" translates to a small pseudo-air-conditioned van where we waited with 16 other travelers for the next forty minutes. I'm not sure why we waited because we were the last to get on, but suspicion leads me to believe it was to support the local economy by buying Heinekens for $10 a bottle (with the Jamaican dollar at ? that's only $.75U.S.) We were also offered a wide variety of drugs by men who grab you by the arm which the porter has just freed of your luggage. I assumed a child in tow would deter the drug dealers. It doesn't! Every tourist we talked to during the remainder of our stay had some sort of offer along these lines.
As you enter the airport there is a bureau to change to foreign currency for Jamaican. I recommend you change between $50 and $150. In the markets, with American cash, you can often get a better price. On the swing side of that, the locals believe that Americans are all very wealthy and if you carry American money you must be American.
From the airport, you ride in a van sardine style ride in a can for a little over an hour. If you're lucky enough to get a window, the scenery is lush, tropical, and interesting.
Jamaica has a very British feel with crowded rugby fields every several miles. Poverty is evident, but less so than on many Carribean islands. Canary yellow shacks lean off the hillsides in mountainous areas and driftwood shanties with palm frond roofs dot the beaches advertising snapper, daiquiris, sea shells, and Sucker bait, (our family's name for tourist junk.) Cows are tied to stakes by the side of the road, and an over abundance of goats roam everywhere. Jamaican's drive on the left-hand side of the road at a terrifying speed, almost out of control, down winding, narrow, pothole infested roads. In retrospect, I might opt to provide my own transportation on a future trip. From Atlanta, GA, USA, total travel time to the resort is about six hours.
The FDR is a welcome sight... Enchanting pink stucco buildings with bright white pillars and balconies. Upstairs, the suites contain one, two, or three bedrooms; downstairs there's a kitchen, dining room, living room complete with television and telephone, and a romantic Romeo and Juliet balcony. At the end of each evening my husband and I had a liqueur brought up to us as we enjoyed the medley of Caribbean surf from this balcony. A folder placed on the breakfast bar contains several pages of pertinent information including; a laundry list, several baby-sitting request slips, a food stock list, and a sports activities itinerary. Your Girl Friday is at your beck and call until five each day with an hour off for lunch at your convenience. However, after five, you must fill out a baby-sitting request slip. The fee is $15 Jamaican per hour. (That's a little less than a dollar US!) You can also fill out a form requesting what you'd like your refrigerator and cupboards stocked with; fruit, crackers and cheese, milk, yogurt, alcohol, you name it! And your stores are replenished every morning. The family next door to us was staying two weeks and decided that a case of beer would be adequate over that length of time... However, each and every morning they received a case of beer! Laundry is another "non-included" expense, but it's as inexpensive as the baby-sitting. They dry-cleaned my husband's and son's suits, and my silk traveling dress for about $4.50 US and did the best job to date.
On your first afternoon you will be given a tour of the facilities. These include a smallish disco with all the lights, strobes, and speakers it can hold; a dark but quaint piano bar with an impressive 6 foot Yamaha baby grand, and completely stocked bar; a series of children's activity rooms; a game room with attached Nautilus gym; an open air dining room; two swimming pools, children's and adult's; a playground that keeps Little Tykes in business; a beauty parlor complete with masseuse and manicurist for both men and women; a gift shop; the beach with hammocks and water sports checkout center; and THE BAR. THE BAR is located alongside the adult swimming pool and the bartenders know their stuff. Don't ask for anything specific, let them concoct their pleasure. All drinks can be made with or without alcohol!
I must admit that the brochure did FDR justice. However, there are a few aspects which the brochure overlooks. Though there is a No Tipping policy at the resort, once you get outside the resort, which you will do should you take any of the sightseeing excursions, everyone has his pocket open. My husband and I took a bike trip one morning to some old pirate caves about a mile UP the road. It is certainly a worthwhile trip, BUT the tour guide expected a tip and so did the bartender at the end, (for every excursion there is a rum punch at the end). On the excursion to Dunnes River Falls, young children are usually left at the bottom to play in the sand with your Girl Friday. However, our guide offered to carry our son up the falls with us for which we tipped him. If you are unsure, your Girl Friday is more than happy to advise you. She can also let you know about fair prices if you venture to one of the markets.
DON'T take young children to the straw market! In fact, I wouldn't go again myself. There are hundreds of stalls all selling the same tacky junk. Each stall owner grabs at you and lavishes compliments. In retrospect, a day at the office seems far less stressful. Should you decide it's an experience that can't be missed, I recommend you barter. The local grocery store is invaluable. Items are much less expensive and there is very little 'tourist fare.' We picked up a large bottle of Tia Maria, a bottle Jerk sauce, some Jamaican spices, and a T-shirt for our son and spent less than we would have on one T-shirt at the market.
I had not been diving for several years and my husband had never been, so, when we found that a "resort course" was offered as part of the "all inclusive" we envisioned two dives a day for five days. However, if you aren't PADI certified and have to take the resort course note that it's only offered three times a week, Sunday, Tuesday, and Thursday. If you plan to take it, do it the first day possible. Also be aware that you can't dive and fly in the same 24 hour period because of pressurization.
There are a whole slew of activities planned through the mini club from swimming, to goat races and shell hunting on the beach. Older children go on bike rides, and learn to snorkel. In the evenings they have their own meal time. I though the lobster balls were wonderful but my two-year-old prefers Snoopy Hamburgers! Plan on paying your Friday for her services every night, but note that most of them must take the public bus home the last of which leaves at 1 A.M. on weekends and at midnight during the week. She will have to spend the night if you are going to be out later. Your Girl Friday will take your kids to a mini-disco, "Coketail" party and movies, bathe them, and snuggle them into bed, while you and your spouse enjoy a romantic dinner, entertainment, and maybe even a dance or three at the disco.
Though there is a "No Tipping" policy, I pay my thirteen-year-old baby-sitter at home four dollars an hour and felt almost criminal paying our Girl Friday only a dollar an hour. So, the last night of our stay we gave her an 'extra something' on the side. Most of the other families we talked with were doing this as well though some repeat travelers had brought appropriate gifts from the States.
The staff will pamper you! I cannot say enough about how friendly everyone is! I left my room key on the breakfast table more than once and at least three people were at my heels to get it back to me. By the end of the first day even the grounds keepers knew my son's name and had a big "Hello Mon!" ready when they saw him. When we were leaving, a bottle of rum broke in my suitcase at they were bringing it down to the bus. Someone stopped us at the road with a replacement. Two weeks later I received a letter expressing how truly sorry they were and offering to cover the costs of any cleaning or clothing damage.
Several years ago, my younger brother and a friend stayed at Boscoble Beach Club which is run by Super Clubs (who also run Jamaica Jamaica, and Hedonism II among others exclusively for adult couples and singles.) He expressed the same fondness for it as I have for FDR. Your preference will depend a lot on the type of atmosphere you prefer; small and rather quiet versus large scale and more lively. FDR tends to be a bit more expensive, but Boscoble Beach doesn't offer suites or a Girl Friday. When my son is a bit older, I think we will go back and try Boscoble Beach.
As your airplane takes off for home a large billboard reads: "In Jamaica it's no problem!" At an all-inclusive family resort it really is no problem! Although the children are with you, there is time for both romance and family togetherness; for a vacation the way a minivan, the dog, and three children will never be. |