In most parts of the country, if you were to see Noah's Ark sailing
overhead among the cumulus clouds, you'd probably be asked to seek
professional help. But if you happened to be in Albuquerque, in October, this would be no hallucination, just a regular day at the Kodak
Albuquerque International Balloon Fiesta — probably the only place in
the U.S. where people look forward to waking up at 4:30 in th morning to face rush hour traffic.
In Albuquerque, the Balloon Capital of the World, the largest
concentration of hot air balloons converge in the smallest possible
space. Ideal terrain and weather make this site unique: The days tend to
be clear and cool; light winds, nearby mountains and the open landscape. This combination makes for perfect balloon navigation conditions, often referred to as "The Box Effect," where the pilots can travel in one direction, change altitude and then head back on the original course for a round trip.
During the Fiesta, you can go just about anywhere in Albuquerque and see hundreds of colored gumballs drifting lazily overhead — a long way from its advent in 1972, when a mere 13 balloons ascended from a small shopping center parking lot. Now over 800 of them crowd the skies and more than a million spectators gather on a 200-some-acre earthen park over the course of nine days.
I didn't know what was in store for me when I attended my first Fiesta
with my friend Suzy and her husband, Steve, who had just moved to the city. Bundled in thick coats and hats to tolerate the chilly 20-degree
weather, we knew we'd have to peel off all these layers as the
temperature made a dramatic climb by 10 a.m. Once on the road, we found ourselves at a stand-still, in a crush of cars for miles under a moonlit
sky. In this desert environment, it felt like a city-wide evacuation, as
if we were fleeing an alien invasion. Luckily our early start allowed us
to catch the flight of the Dawn Patrol balloons (at 5:30 a.m.) testing the
wind and setting the stage for the mass ascension two hours later. The
burst of flames from their propane burners created blazing globes of
light that winked on and off against the still-dark sky.
After a successful search for parking, we joined the crowds in Fiesta
Park, home to the annual event. Expecting to see 20 or so balloons, we
were shocked to find rows and rows of numbered grids where hundreds of them were readied for launch. Wandering aimlessly, we lost each other at times amidst the inflating balloons and their crews, baby carriages and groups of people clinging together.
The multicolored envelopes lay atop plastic tarps to protect them from
the rocky ground. Finding not a single "Do Not Touch" sign or roped-off area, we felt like part of the action. We mingled and chatted with the pilots, who freely signed autographs for children who ran up clutching
Fiesta programs.
Slowly, as the sun rose behind the Sandia Mountains, the sky turned a
flaming coral. Huge fans roared to life, blowing cold air into the
technicolor nylon fabrics, which bulged in various stages of inflation as light rays penetrated their wild patterns. Next, we were jolted by the
piercing noise of the propane burners which provide the hot air that
makes the envelopes stand at attention. Up popped the balloons, casting giant globular shadows as they bobbed and caressed each other, straining at their lines. We felt a welcome warmth radiating from the spewing flames.
With all the shapes and colors around us, we were often distracted,
barely catching ourselves from tripping on the array of coiled lines
anchoring the balloons to the ground. Then, finally, the real magic
began. Launch directors dressed in black and white referee stripes blew a shrill whistle signalling it was time for the masses to move away from the balloons. The lines were released and the spheres slowly made their
skyward ascent.
Above us erupted an explosion of color as balloons rose in wave after
wave over the next two hours. The cloudless, cobalt sky became saturated
with a dizzying display of floating orbs that caught the light and shone
brilliantly. We were fixated on the rainbow-splashed sky as children,
perched atop their parents' shoulders, waved and shouted with each
take-off.
Soon, the aroma of salsa and bratwurst and all the excitement built up
our appetites. Luckily, venders were selling an international array of
consumables on the periphery of the dusty field. Their selections
included Indian fry bread, Belgian waffles, Breakfast burritos, Greek
kabob, chicken teriyaki and biscuits and gravy. Those who didn't fill up
on the main courses had plenty of desserts to snack on, including apple
strudel and funnel cakes. We juggled a plate full of "breakfast" items
along with our cameras. Steve followed the lead of the many Balloon
Fiesta veterans wearing hats and jackets emblazoned with a multitude of
enamel balloon pins. While he ran around collecting commemorative stamps,
pins, posters and T-shirts, Suzy and I never lost sight of our mission:
shooting as many rolls of film of as many different balloons as possible,
and popping in new rolls with record speed.
Over the next few days, we realized it really is a Fiesta. The week
provides an array of activities and social events where balloon lovers of
all ages can get caught up in the mania.
During Balloon Glow, 400 balloons are clustered together and tethered at
sunset. At the command "all burn," the balloonists simultaneously ignite
their propane burners and fill the evening with a kaleidoscope of colors
for over an hour. I developed a major case of goose bumps, not from the
dropping temperatures, but from the almost chilling effect produced by
these eerily glowing balls.
At the Special Shapes Mass Ascension, we spied Sleeping Beauty's castle,
a tennis shoe, the Motorola StarTac cellular phone, a 3-masted sailing
ship, a Diet Pepsi can, a Harley Davidson and the Energizer Bunny all
floating side by side vying for attention. The cobalt sky provided the
perfect backdrop for viewing this event, which is a cross between a giant
television commercial and a Disney movie.
For the competitive events, we brought a blanket and picnic lunch and
waited for 400-some balloons to hover over the field, aiming for targets.
The first pilot to reach 21 by dropping bean bags onto giant playing
cards wins the blackjack contest. Others attempt to bring aboard
helium-filled balloons that dangle over the field containing $100 bills.
In the House Drop Contest, pilots, who drop a weighted baggie into a
two-story-tall wooden chimney, receive a key. The key that opens the
front door wins a new house. During the Key Grab, pilots try to navigate
their balloon to one of five 30-foot poles each topped by a light that
randomly lights up every five minutes. The first to grab the certificate
on the poll that's lit wins a new car.
After a week of festivities, I half expected to see a pink dragon drift
past my window on the flight home. There's was no sense explaining this
dream to my seat mate. Only alumnae of the Balloon Fiesta would
understand. |
