Travelers to Peru seem to have one thing on their mind these days – getting the lowest priced Inca Trail excursion available. The going rate for the backpacker market seems to range from $40 - $80, with little difference in inclusions aside from possibly better zippers on tents and meals served at tables for those paying the most. True, some fancy companies catering to first-class tourists charge on average $500 for the trek, however most trail-seekers wish to pay as little as possible. Efforts are in progress to improve the sanitary situation and conditions of the trail in general, which range from the initiation of trash collection to the construction of restrooms. In addition, entrance fees to the trail were set to increase in August from $17 to $50, but such increases have been postponed until a more concrete plan and schedule of improvements is put into place. But the worn trail, sure to deteriorate rapidly due to the tremendous increase in tourism to Peru during the past five years, is not the only victim to the stampede to hit the Inca Trail. The true casualties are the porters – the small and tattered-appearing Indian locals with backs of steel – who carry up to three backpacks each along the four-day trek. Travelers purchasing a $40 - $80 four-day Inca Trail adventure in Cuzco at one of the hundreds of ‘authorized’ travel agencies on or near the Plaza de Armas (Main Square) pay for a package including everything except portage of luggage or backpacks. Many, arguably even most, of the trekkers plan to carry their own packs along the journey to save the expense charged by the travel agency of $40 per bag for a porter to lug the loads, but realistically, by the second (and most grueling) day, many turn their bags over to a porter. This is highway – or ‘trailway’ – robbery.
The budget excursions leave Cuzco for Kilometer 88, the beginning of the trail for four-day hikers, with a standard number of porters to carry the food and other necessities. Upon arrival in Urubamba, and after taking an inventory of the estimated physical characteristics of the passengers on the bus, the guide and lead porter hire more porters. This consists of stopping at the first corner in Urubamba where all of the hopeful porters-to-be fight for a job as soon as the bus rolls to a stop. Some of these workers walk days for such work. Usually the porters already aboard hire friends first, leaving the rest to hope for a ‘lucky’ draw – or the next bus to arrive. The scenario is grim and puts a cloud over the beginning of a beautiful journey. The porters receive on average 15 Soles (well under $5) a day. True, food and water is included, but it doesn’t take much to calculate what the meals actually cost the travel agencies (practically nothing). To make matters worse, most porters end up carrying up to three travelers’ gear and average more than 100 pounds per total load. Imagine the profits of the travel agencies if one porter carries three travelers’ bags! Other four-day trips, which can be booked in Cuzco such as white water rafting, cost $160 and up and include the same types of meals. True, the gear is rafted down the river on a cargo raft, however there are many locations on the Apurimac River trip, for example, where the rapids are too fierce to raft through and passengers are asked to get out and create a human chain to carry the gear over the tough spots.
No porters are required, likely due to the restrictions the rafting companies put on luggage allowances (three travelers get one ‘wet bag’ to store all of their gear in – the rest goes back to Cuzco for safe storage). This might be a lesson for Inca Trail hikers and travel agencies booking the trips (although the former is likely a more realistic remedy). Instead of trying to bring along the same backpack used for a two-month journey throughout Peru, Ecuador and Bolivia, travelers should consider storing truly unnecessary clothing and other items (for free) at the agency where the trip is booked.
The use of porters is a genuine contribution to the local economy and should not be dismissed, however, until a more fair and humane compensation system is in place, we should at least try to lighten their load. |
