Forget the Alamo! Surrender to the new forces of Tex-Mex.
San Antonio never seems more Texan than during February's annual weeklong rodeo and livestock show. But don't let the cattle, barbecue, and chili fool you. This city's roots stretch right across the border. The blossoming contemporary and folk arts scene, from Tejano music to the new Latin American wing at the San Antonio Museum of Art, reveals the influence of San Antonio's strong Mexican-American community. And with daytime highs reaching the 60s, this is a great place to escape winter's blahs.
Best Dinner Under $25
San Antonians like their Mexican food unpretentious and no-holds-barred authentic, like the local specialty-deep fried "puffy tacos." Go to Rosario's for Tex-Mex that's lighter and more interesting ellipse and for a more festive atmosphere. Try the chicken enchiladas de mole, sure to convince any skeptic that chocolate is just as good savory as sweet (1014 South Alamo; 210-223-1806 ; dinner for two is less than $20).
Most Spirited Spot
Mariachi music at a Catholic mass in an 18th-century mission? At Mission San Jose, expect upbeat music and a lively crowd. Get around on the trolley; soon you'll also be able to rent a bike and cycle up new mission trails that will connect the downtown area with the city's four church communities (3200 Roosevelt Ave.; 210-932-1001 ).
Craftiest Buys
If a painting by a local artist at the San Antonio Museum of Art catches your eye, be sure to stop by Galeria Ortiz. This shop offers sketches and other works by the same artists whose pieces hang in the city's leading museum. Here, original artwork is combined with a selection of incredibly detailed Mexican crafts, like tiny, beautifully painted wooden animals (102 Concho St.; 210-225-0731 ).
Spice World
Of course you'll stock up on salsa and chili mix at Central Market. This cavernous grocery store-cum-culinary center has a vast array of sweet and hot varieties, and more fresh chilies than you've ever seen. But be sure to take a cooking class or wine-tasting on the mezzanine level-what could be a better souvenir than being able to re-create those tamales at home (4821 Broadway; 210-368-8600 ; cooking classes cost between $10 and $55)?
Most Elegant Hotel Under $225
Hacienda-style La Mansion del Rio may have fountains at the entrance, a pool, and a courtyard, but the elegant rooms steal the show. Thick gold and black jacquard bedspreads top king-sized beds piled high with pillows; rooms are decorated in rich golds and creams. Some adjoin the courtyard, but ask for one of the more private interior rooms, especially on the quieter eastern side of the building, with balconies overlooking the river (112 College St.; 210-225-2581 ; doubles $210- $305, suites $475-$1,900).
Even Cowgirls Like to Cruise
It's true that you won't see anyone on the River Walk who actually lives in San Antonio-except at Boudro's. Locals make an exception for the frozen margaritas with their swirls of crimson prickly pear juice and for mild Southwestern seafood like smoked shrimp enchiladas with corn pudding or herb-cured salmon tacos with marinated cucumber and jicama slaw. Sit by the window or book a table on the barge and enjoy a river tour with your meal (421 East Commerce St.; 210-224-8484 ; dinner for two is about $60).
Must-Have Boots
In Paris, the chicest place is the patisserie, in Italy, the cafe. In San Antonio, it just might be the cowboy-boot store. The selection at the Lucchese Boot Company includes lizard ($589) and ostrich ($919) boots. Sit for a spell on the leather chairs as the staff explains the different heel, toe, and leather options. For a less chi-chi selection, try Kallison's Western Wear downtown (Lucchese, 255 East Basse Rd., 210-828-9419 ; Kallison's, 123 South Flores, 210-222-1364 ).
Hippest Happy Hour
At the vortex of San Antonio's contemporary art scene is the funky-cool Blue Star Art Complex and the equally happening ArtPace Center. Blue Star combines artists' studios, the colorful San Angel Gallery, and the Blue Star Brewing Company. ArtPace offers yoga classes as well as gallery space and studios. Most of San Antonio's outstanding artwork is still shown at unpublicized locations, so stop by one of these centers to hear what's going on in the SoHo of Tex as (Blue Star Art Complex, 1400 South Alamo St., 210-227-6960 ; ArtPace, 445 North Main Ave., 210-212-4900 ).
Littlest Slice of Germany
German settlers in the 19th century had nearly as strong an influence on the city as the Spanish had in the 18th. The Germanic turn-of-the-century King William District is a world away from the bustle of the River Walk and the city's omnipresent Tex-Mex culture. Stay at the Noble Inns; its airy rooms have a cheery floral decor and all the amenities of a big hotel. Or have breakfast at the Guenther House, whose quilted Belgian waffles are the end product of the family-owned grain mill behind the house. And don't miss the apple strudel (The Noble Inns, 107 Madison St., 210-225-4045 , $120-$175; Guenther House, 205 East Guenther St., 210-227-1061 , breakfast for two is $20). |
