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Festival of Lanterns in South-Korea
As twilight fades, candle-lit lanterns guide our way to the temple and the flickering light casts a warm glow on our faces. Our pace is set by the throaty chanting of monks. Swirls of frankincense and sandalwood dance in the cool evening air.
We’re making our way to the main temple complex at Bulguk-sa to celebrate Buddha’s Birthday, my favorite holiday in Korea.
Weeks before this special day monks begin to hang colorful lanterns along the paths to the temples and within the temple complex itself.
Then, on the Sunday before Buddha’s Birthday, a Lantern Parade is held. Part of a tradition that dates back to the 6th century, people carry paper lanterns, lit with candles, through town to the local temple.
The first time I saw this, I bumped into it quite by accident. I was on a local bus in a small town outside of Jiri-san National Park. Along the dark country road there was a long line of women dressed in Korea’s traditional clothing, hanbok, followed by Buddhist nuns and monks, all carrying candle-lit lanterns. The women were singing, the monks were chanting. It felt like I was on a bus trip into the past.
The parade in Seoul brings out nearly 30,000 people. The streets are packed with delighted viewers who watch as groups of hanbok clad men, women and children march by with their spectacular paper lanterns to the rhythm of Buddhist chants and traditional Korean songs. Waves of serene monks and nuns pass by in their grey and brown robes. And, as though they are magically floating above the paraders, there are giant, electrically-lit, lanterns shaped as fish, temple guardians, dragons, phoenixes and, of course, a baby Buddha perched upon a white elephant.
Why lanterns? Apparently, by making lanterns in the shape of a lotus—a design unique to Korea—one expresses the aspiration for wisdom as the lotus represents the shedding of ignorance—growth from muck—and the attainment of wisdom—blossoming in sunlight. The candle inside symbolizes the attainment of wisdom by, very literally, shedding light in the darkness.
On the day of Buddha’s Birthday, people head to the temples, where there are festivities all day long.
Most Buddhist temples in Korea are located in the mountains because, although Buddhism had flourished on the peninsula since its introduction in the 4th century, it was replaced with Confucianism during the Chosun Dynasty. No longer permitted to worship in public, Buddhist monks were forced into the remote hills.
Now, about half of South Korea’s population claims to be Buddhist. Weekends are often spent as a combo hike in the mountains—which Koreans love, as it is a great get-away from the bustle and noise of the cities—and a visit to the temple.
So, on this special day, the paths leading to the temples bustle with Buddhists and non-Buddhists out to enjoy the day as well as vendors selling all the favorite snacks, like boiled silkworms and traditional Korean rice cakes. Children run around gaily with their mini-lotus lanterns, families picnic along the riverside and everyone enjoys the fine weather.
The Korean spring brings the hills alive with new green leaves and the colorful lanterns add to the natural colors of the season—the reds, pinks and purples of azaleas and the gentle mauve of lilacs and wisterias.
Throughout the day, monks chant as elegantly dressed women place offerings of food before the great mural of Buddha, brought out especially for this day of celebrations. Devotees bow 108 times before their deity and bathe the baby Buddha with small ladles of water and a prayer. More prayers are written on small slips of paper and hung from the lanterns for good fortune.
If you get hungry from the hike up the steep hills to the temples and boiled silk worms don’t satisfy your appetite, why not try some traditional temple fare? On Buddha’s Birthday, most temples offer a modest meal for the visitors, usually a bowl of bibimbap, mixed mountain vegetables and rice—vegetarian, of course, in the Buddhist spirit of non-killing.
Which temple should you visit on Buddha’s Birthday? Well, there are almost 2,000 temples in South Korea so making this decision isn’t easy. I suppose it depends on where you are or want to be.
Each temple has its own unique feeling. Some seem mysterious, whereas others emanate purity. Still, others are wise and learned while some are simply quiet and peaceful. Even with hundreds of people milling around these impressions are deeply felt.
At a temple named Tongdo-sa, I was looking for my companions when I saw a monk crouching down to speak to a young child. Their conversation was out of earshot, but their exchange was gentle and sweet. From where I stood they seemed so calm. It was as if they were in a time bubble, separated from the din of the crowds. I was entranced by this moment of loving-kindness.
Back at Bulguk-sa, night was falling and the paths were illuminated by the flickering light of the lanterns. Gentle colors glowed in the peaceful evening. We followed the sound of the great bell being rung, calling to all who have become decadent to be lead through wisdom to liberation.
As we entered the courtyard, a line was being formed and someone handed me a lantern on a stick. I joined the line and circled the great temple three times before leaving to catch my train.
Despite the fullness of the celebration, I never want to leave the temple on this day. But then I remember that there’s always next year.
When:
Buddha’s Birthday is held on the eighth day of the fourth lunar month, which usually lands near the end of April or the beginning of May.
Getting Around:
Traveling within Korea is relatively convenient and cheap. There is an excellent train system and busses that go everywhere. Most trips usually combine train and bus travel. You can also fly to most major cities.
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