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Culinary Adventures in Albquerque
Expensive
Ranchers Club of New Mexico, Albuquerque Hilton — Mesquite, hickory, sassafras or apple woods grill prime cuts of beef for the successful Gentlemen and Lady Rancher. The ambiance is a lavish estate with overstuffed leather sofas and wing chairs. Lighter eaters are pampered with grilled fish, seafood or fresh vegetables. Vegetables, green chiles, and white or sweet potatoes are rounded up from the grill. Ponder over the twenty-one sauce and condiments choices such as raspberry chipotle, prickly pear cactus glaze or gazpacho butter. Rancher-wannabees must wear a shirt with a collar and no shorts. This is the place to be seen for Sunday Brunch. 1901 University Blvd. NE; tel: 505-884-2500.
Maria Teresa — This New Mexican territorial-style home on the National Register of Historic Places has an impressive bar from Lincoln County where the bartender claims that Billy the Kid quaffed his brews. Try one of the El Patron Coalitionist poured with the fine Inigo Gold Tequila, dry vermouth and hot jalapeno peppers. New Mexican specialties such as blue corn chicken enchilada, pork loin chops adovada share the menu with continental specialties such as grilled red trout, rack of lamb, and beef tenderloin with Béarnaise sauce. And for preludes explore the ginger duck quesadilla with New York Cheddar or the house patés. 618 Rio Grande NW, near Old Town.
Moderate
Scalo Northern Italian Grill — Witness true American soul from chefs, staff and management desiring to please. The modern interior of Firenze gold accented with sienna reds and lavender has an open kitchen where chefs tame wild flames and woods into Americanized versions of Northern Italian delights. Tom Hays, the talented executive chef, smokes and cures his own salmon. The grilled herbed chicken topped with crispy fried red onions on a Kalamata olive reduction gloriously elevates poultry's status while specials such as blue-nosed bass fillets on new potatoes in a Gorgonzola sauce keep patrons coming back. Despite giant portions, continue on for the death-defying chocolate dolce, Key Lime pie, or refreshing housmade granites. Call for reservations. 3500 Central Ave. SE in Nobb Hill Shopping Center; tel: 505-255-8781.
Artichokes Cafe, between downtown and the University. Why not start with a giant tender artichoke with raspberry, butter or caper sauces or the artichoke stuffed with forest mushrooms and rock shrimp? This saucy little bistro is under the helm of competent chef/proprietor Pat Keene who serves entrees such as Moroccan spice-rubbed rack of lamb or pork stuffed with arugula on a polenta cake with balsamic jus. Generous portions of quality meats, fish and organic produce. 424 Central SE; tel 505-243-0200.
Budget
Il Vicino Wood Oven Pizza — Several blocks from the plaza the huge brick ovens blast gourmet ingredients — roasted chicken, prosciuto, artichokes, wild mushrooms, roasted red peppers, goat cheese, fresh herbs on fresh dough for personal pizzas or calzones. Do not miss the gargantuan spinach salad with gorgonzola, peppers, pine nuts and basil dressing. Wash these down with hand-crafted ales. Tom White, also owns the Il Vicino in Santa Fe and Scalo’s across the street. 3401 Central Ave. SE; tel: 505-266-7855.
66 Diner — The former gas station along historic Route 66 connecting Chicago to Los Angeles is a 50's nostalgia trip featuring burgers, hot dogs, fries, malts, egg creams, and ice creams complete with juke box, hot pink neon accents, Formica tables, turquoise plastic chairs and booths. The current structure, re-emerged after a recent fire, still cranks out the golden oldies of fried chicken, meat loaf, chicken fried steak, liver and onions, blue plate specials, pies and cobblers. Smaller appetites incapable of negotiating the giant three-scoop banana split might prefer the ninety-nine cent, Teeny-Weenie fudge sundae. 1405 Central SE, near the University; tel: 505-247-1421.
Garduno's with four locations in Albuquerque including the airport dishes up huge portions of Mexican foods. At 10555 Montgomery street it feels like a Mexican fiesta in a colorful indoor garden with Mariachi singers at night, tel: 505-821-3030.
Worth the Hour’s Drive to Santa Fe
Expensive
Old House, Eldorado Hotel — The Southwestern cuisine is uniquely creative, but not faddish. The Twenty-four carat gold impeccable service, the divine food, and the relaxed atmosphere create Santa Fe's most distinctive trip souvenir. Chef Martin Rios, still a youngster despite having cooked in New York, France, Mexico and Santa Fe, is the hottest chef in town. The upmarket menus change weekly but there are usually tempting starters such as the whole fresh tomato stuffed with goat cheese on a crisp tortilla campfire over pistachio vinaigrette. Rios' food commands the attention of all senses particularly with imaginative plantain crusted seabass, grilled red chile-glazed veal chops or crispy spring roll wrapped salmon. But the artistically crafted plates deliver naps of wonderful sauces or fresh flavors or vegetables, some surprising, but all making supreme sense. Extensive selection of wine by the glass or full bottle. 309 W. San Francisco; tel: 505-988-4455.
Nellie's, Located in the Inn at Loretto-- Experience New American Cuisine subtle nuances and picture-perfect presentations from Executive Chef Scott Shampine. Order the yellow tomato and basil soup and you actually get fresh tuna, crab and avocado terrine in a light tomato consommé. Seafood, including soft shell crab and black bass in season, is superb. Choose either the soothing southwestern interior or patio dining overlooking the marvelous chapel of Loretto. 211 Old Santa Fe Trail; 505-984-7915.
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