We marveled at the huge cypress trees living in perfect harmony with the towering palms. We floated past historic landmarks, lively Irish pubs, the Hard Rock Cafe and dozens of other restaurants, with cuisine ranging from Tex-Mex to fine Italian.
We welcomed the comfortable cruise, but the tour boats are just one way to get around the River Walk. When the sidewalks get crowded, it's a good idea to take a boat taxi. They deliver visitors to the Rivercenter Mall or to the Henry G. Gonzalez Convention Center. To venture out on your own, you can rent a paddleboat and stop wherever you like. Of course, most people choose to simply walk, sampling the variety of shops and restaurants.
The River Walk also has its own outdoor theater. Spectators sit on grassy steps on one side of the river, while the performance stage is on the other. Two annual parades actually float on the San Antonio River each year: The Texas Cavalier's Parade in April and the Holiday River Parade the day after Thanksgiving bring thousands of people celebrating the season. Christmas is a beautiful time to visit the River Walk. The weather is usually mild, and the trees lining the sidewalks are strung with colorful lights reflecting on the water.
No matter what time of year, the River Walk seems to be a perfect romantic getaway for adults, with dozens of activities for kids in close proximity. Downtown is the heart of the city, but in my opinion, there are four major tourist areas in San Antonio. They are not very close together, but each provides an entire day's worth of fun. (Don't try to cover more than one a day- it will wear you out.) Transportation is available through the VIA bus system (210-362-2020).
DOWNTOWN
The nice thing about staying downtown is that so many sites are within walking distance. If you get tired, the VIA streetcars (50 cents for adults, 20 cents for children) will make shopping and sightseeing a breeze. There are many hotels downtown, and although those located on the River Walk are usually more expensive, there are plenty just a few blocks away. Off-season winter rates are more reasonable.
You can start the day at The Alamo, where Texas defenders fell to Mexican General Santa Anna, and the phrase "Remember the Alamo" was born. The Alamo is the cradle of Texas liberty and the state's most popular historic site. It's free to enter, but you probably won't spend more than an hour or two there, unless you're a huge history buff.
Kids enjoy the Plaza Theatre of Wax and Ripley's Believe It or Not! The Plaza Theatre of Wax houses more than 225 lifelike characters in four themed sections - Hollywood, Horror, History and Religion. Ripley's Believe It or Not! has more than 500 unique curiosities from around the world. Both attractions are located in the same building. (Single-attraction tickets are $6.95 - $7.95 for adults, $4.95 for children ages 4-12. For both, tickets are $10.95 for adults, $7.95 for children ages 4-12.)
Museums downtown include the Hertzberg Circus Museum ($2.50, $2 seniors, $1 children 3-12; free on Tuesday) and the San Antonio Children's Museum ($3, teachers and children up to 2 free). Storytelling, singalongs and puppet shows entertain kids at the San Antonio Central Library (free).
The Texas Adventure ($6.50, $4.25 children 3-11) takes visitors back in time through a state-of-the-art multimedia story of Texas independence and history of the Alamo. The show is so real, visitors feel as if they're really a part of history in the making. The IMAX Theatre ($5.95, $4.25 children 3-11) becomes the centerpiece of cool, hourly adventures offered daily. See special movies on six-story screens, complimented by six-track stereo sounds.
Live performances of popular, enchanting fairy tales provide an excellent setting for parents and children to spend quality time together at the Magik Theatre ($5), San Antonio's family professional theater. HemisFair Park, the site of the 1968 World's Fair has several attractions, including the Tower of Americas ($3, $2 seniors, $1 children 4-12), which offers an inspiring view of San Antonio from 579 feet above the ground. (And the glass elevators on the outside of the concrete "stem" give you an intense ride up!) The observation level contains eight panoramic panels and an outdoor walkway 59 floors above the city. The rotating restaurant provides a wonderfully romantic getaway for adults.
Also located in the park are the Institute of Texan Cultures ($4, $2 seniors and children 3-12); the Water Park (free), where visitors can view more than 1 million gallons of water flowing through fountains and ponds; and the Downtown All-Around Playground (free), which contains a massive wooden play area, space tunnel and castle, tot castle and tire tunnel. Kids can release active energy while parents enjoy the cool shade of the park's picnic gazebo.
Another park downtown is Milam Park (free), where turrets, tunnels and a wrought iron gazebo are just some of the fun things to explore. The brightly colored new playground equipment will entertain children while adults shop right across the street at Market Square.
Market Square is the largest Mexican market outside of Mexico. In addition to the myriad of shops bursting with unique and colorful imports, there are weekend fiestas, mariachi serenades, an art gallery and a restaurant/bakery open 24 hours a day. Kids can choose their own birthday piñata to take home.
You can also wander along the cobblestone streets of early San Antonio to see artisans such as glassblowers and weavers at work at the La Villita Historic District. Galleries, shops and eateries fill restored buildings with collectibles of all prices in this National Register District.
The Alamodome, home of the NBA's San Antonio Spurs, hosts many professional football, basketball, soccer and skating events. Guided tours are available ($3, seniors and children up to 13, $1.50). Call for sports and concert dates at 210-207-3652.
SEAWORLD OF TEXAS
The first time I went to SeaWorld I was unprepared. Granted, we had a great time. We stared in amazement the first time we saw Shamu jump into the air, and we laughed at the sea lions. The beauty and intelligence of the mammals in the park overwhelmed us, and it is an experience everyone should enjoy. But after walking up to several shows as they ended, watching my 18-month-old son stare wantingly at at the water with no change of clothes available, and dealing with hungry, tired people, I vowed to make the next trip more enjoyable. So here are some helpful hints:
1. Never expect perfection. Kids will get tired. It will be hot. These are forces of nature you cannot overcome.
2. Bring a change of clothes for your kids. Pack a backpack with either a swimsuit and a pair of T-shirts and shorts in case the ones they're wearing get wet. (And oh, there are so many ways to get wet at Sea World, whether it be in the water playgrounds, the water rides or the full-size water slide and park.) Don't forget socks and towels. If your kids are old enough, have them carry their own backpack. If they're young, you might want to bring a swimsuit for yourself to go with them in the water. Even very young children can enjoy the water activities.
3. Get a schedule of the shows, and get to each one 20 minutes early to get a good seat. The shows are the only way to see some of the animals, including the killer whales, so don't miss them. The dolphin show, the sea lion show and the killer whale show are the three we found most impressive.
4. Bring light snacks and water. The food lines are always long at lunchtime. If you can, try to each lunch at 11 a.m. or 1 p.m.
5. Plan to spend the whole day there. Don't try to rush around. Relax and take a nice, long lunch. Adults should take turns sitting while another adult takes the kids to attractions.
6. Bring or rent a wagon. Even if your kids don't sit in it the whole time, you can use it to tote your things around.
Tickets are $30.95 for adults; $20.95 for children ages 3 to 11; senior citizens get 10 percent off the price of an adult ticket. Call 210-523-3611 for hours. Generally, they're open during Spring Break, on weekend April and mid-May, every day mid-May through mid-August, then on weekends through Nov. 1.
SIX FLAGS FIESTA TEXAS THEME PARK
Home to Bugs Bunny and his Looney Tunes pals, Fiesta Texas is like a town built just for fun, with more than 20 rides, live performances, games, play activities, a laser and fireworks show and a full-sized water park. It is worth spending a whole day here. The attractions are different from that of SeaWorld. There are more rides at Fiesta Texas, which is built in a quarry and has four themed areas celebrating Texas' diverse cultural heritage. Follow rules 1, 2, 4 and 5 above.
Tickets are $32 for people 48 inches and over; $22.50 for people under 48 inches, seniors and the physically challenged; free for children up to 2. Call 800-473-4378 or 210-697-5050 for hours. Fiesta Texas is generally open on weekends from March through May, every day from late May through mid-August, then on weekends through about Nov. 2.
BRACKENRIDGE PARK
Rustic stone bridges and winding walkways in the 433-acre Brackenridge Park (210-207-8480) lead to several worthwhile attractions.
The San Antonio Zoo ($6 adults, $4 children 3-11) has a collection of more than 3,000 animals displayed in natural habitats. Feedings, demonstrations, a children's zoo, a boat ride and a playscape provide an educational, fun-filled outing.
Witte Museum ($5.95 adults, $4.95 seniors, $3.95 children 4-11) is a natural history museum with an Ecolab of live Texas animals and an outdoor butterfly and hummingbird museum. The new HEB Science Treehouse offers a magical world of inventions and zany contraptions.
The serene, outdoor setting at the Japanese Tea Gardens (free) lets parents relax amid beautiful floral plantings while kids climb winding stairways, cross stone bridges and watch giant goldfish in ponds.
The Brackenridge Eagle Miniature Train ($2.17 adults, $1.62 ages up to 12) takes visitors two miles around the park, allowing you to stop at various locations.
Nearby is the old-fashioned Carousel ($2 adults, $1.50 children 1-11). America's oldest and original Kiddie Park (prices vary) lets kids enjoy an antique, hand-carved Merry-Go-Round, a tiny roller coaster, a game room and much more.
Horse and pony rentals are available through the Brackenridge Stables. You can go on your own ($23 an hour) or as part of a guided trail ride ($15). Brackenridge Park has many picnic tables and a new playscape near a pavilion, so bring your lunch and eat between activities. Many people bring wagons to pull kids along through the various park attractions.
